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thread-3980 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3980 | Settings for Taulman 618 Nylon | 2017-05-03T08:38:00.187 | # Question
Title: Settings for Taulman 618 Nylon
I would like to know what are the best settings for Taulman 618 Nylon filament? In particular, the print head and print bed temperatures.
# Answer
240°C, lots of cooling.
See Material Specification Print Sheet - Taulmann 618 Nylon.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, nylon
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thread-3983 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3983 | Scaling/size issues in delta printers | 2017-05-03T14:23:30.573 | # Question
Title: Scaling/size issues in delta printers
So here How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts the Cartesian printer approach to accurate sizing is covered. And deltas get a footnote of *being a whole other ball of wax* \- so let's look at that wax ball.
I'm currently resurrecting, or erecting, depending how one looks at it, a poorly documented Chinese printer (purchased in China by a Chinese student and abandoned in the US after graduation) that appears to be based off a Rostock mini. Z 204mm, X Y 100mm radius or 200 mm diameter, Bowden tube.
It appears to be equipped with an absurdly small nozzle (lacking a good way to check that precisely yet, feeding suggests possibly 0.1mm, and no, the vertical resolution is not nearly enough to make that in any way reasonable), which is obviously fixable if the rest of it can be made to work.
Yesterday we got it to the point of (very tediously with tiny nozzle) spitting out a test cube, which was 17 by 17 by 20 mm - undersized in XY, accurate in Z. The last bit makes me pretty sure the steps/mm are right on the steppers, but obviously something is off in the geometry (measured, no documentation for this exact printer can be found, at least by non-Chinese-speaking/reading me - it being utterly un-branded does not help.)
A second test cube was produced with scaling set to 20/17 (1.176) in the XY directions, and that seems to be accurate at least to non-precision measurements. I'm now contemplating "what likely needs tweaked, and in what direction" for the delta geometry - I'd say the rod eye-to-eye measurement (85mm, IIRC) is fairly decent, the offset from rod mount at carriage to rod center is not too terrible, and I have low confidence in the rod mount at printhead to nozzle - so that's the one I suspect most.
tl, dr:**But I lack an intuitive understanding of how each of those parameters (offset at carriage, offset at printhead, and arm length) would affect the printed size.** I'll come back and edit in what we currently think each is. Rather than depending on scaling in the slicer I'd like to seek the "right numbers" but when at the limits of available measurement precision, having an idea how and in what direction incorrect offsets or arm length affect the print size would be good, rather than just blindly changing numbers and hoping.
*I also have some other "print quality" issues and a bed leveling issue which will be other questions when I can sort that out.*
# Answer
> 4 votes
Issues in X-Y size on a Delta are usually the result of an incorrect diagonal rod value in the firmware. This should be easy to fix assuming the rods were built together.
The formula for this is (20 in this case is your test print X-Y):
`New DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = 20 / measured_length * Original DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD`
I found this information (here), this site also has more information on setting the radius and other delta specific issues.
If you encounter issues with the size of the rods you should build new ones using a jig. There are several (here's one) I found on Thingiverse but they require printed parts and they do all the rods horizontally which I think would be tough to keep equal. I would use something similar to this picture but with a longer rod/bolt so you can fit all rods on the same time. When I did my Kossel Mini I used a piece of the extrusion with bolts coming off of it to keep the rods consistent.
For the other issues you mention you should open another question specific to each issue.
---
Tags: delta
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thread-3986 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3986 | P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20 | 2017-05-03T23:59:04.813 | # Question
Title: P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20
I'm building a new printer after having an Anet A8 for about two months and getting a feel for what I want. I'm planning to buy a P3Steel frame; but can't decide which version to get.
There are one or two prints I would like to make that are larger than 20 cm in length; but I could always do these in multiple pieces.
What I'm wondering is how serious are the trade-offs I would be making for a larger bed? I would think I would need thicker linear rods for the 510 mm length y-axis; and the bed would also have a large amount of inertia so that could slow down printing. Does anyone have any experience with this size bed in a moving y-carriage scenario? Also how thick of rods should I get? Orballo printing is saying 8 mm is fine but the research I've done implies that you shouldn't really go over 200-250 mm unsupported for that width.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Go for the P3Steel v4 (20x30). The extra print area is worth it. There is a Polish supplier, Printo3D, on eBay that has the cheapest frame, and parts - cheaper than the Spanish supplier. That is where I got mine from. See Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v 4.0, 300mm x 200 mm, which costs around £80.
This kit uses 10 mm smooth rods for the Y axis:
> Smooth stainless steel rods:
>
> * 2x Ø8x385 mm for X-Axis
> * 2x Ø8x320 mm for Z-Axis
> * 2x Ø10x520 mm for Y-Axis
>
> Threaded stainless steel rods:
>
> * 2x M5x300 mm
With respect to the Y-axis carriage, the steel carriage does add a lot of weight/inertia, you are correct. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your steppers motors that you choose<sup>1</sup>, and their torque. That said, the 3 mm steel print bed/Y-axis carriage, *is* ridiculously heavy, and it would be most wise to substitute it for an aluminium, plywood, or some other lightweight solution.
Apart from that the 3 mm steel frame is fine and as solid as a rock. There are a number of aluminium 20x30 print beds/Y-axis carriages available on eBay and Amazon. A thorough search should reveal a few. There are also composite Y-axis carriages, I found a supplier in the Ukraine, tehnologika\_net, who, *last year*, had a number of different types at a reasonable cost - in fact they were the cheapest that I found.
As an aside, I built mine sourcing all of the parts separately. It was a bit of a task, but an educative one. The process certainly made me understand the ins and outs a lot better than purchasing a ready built, or complete kit, 3D printer.
I have written up some blogs regarding the kit that I purchased, see P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe. Ignore the depressing title, it really isn't that bad.
See also Heatbeds. At the bottom there are some links to various alternative Y-axis carriages. However, some of the links/items may no longer be available.
You may also find this question of mine useful, Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4.
---
There are a number of modifications to the standard P3Steel, that may well be worth considering. In particular, you should note the Toolsen Edition MK2, see P3steel toolson edition MK2 (in German), and P3steel - toolson edition. I have written about these, and more, see P3Steel version 4 modifications. In summary, these are:
* Bowden extruders
* Endstops
* Endstops by Toolsen
* Optical Endstops by Toolsen
* Idlers by Toolsen
* Extruder by NWRepRap
* Lead screws
* Aluminium/Composite Y-axis carriage
---
<sup>1</sup> I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See RepRapWiki - Nema17. The recommended steppers are high torque:
* Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;
* Rattm 17HS8401, and;
* Wantai 42BYGHW609
> However, motors close to NEMA 17 size, with approximately the following specifications, can also work:
>
> * 1.5A to 1.8A current per phase
> * 1-4 volts
> * 3 to 8 mH inductance per phase
> * 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque
> * 1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)
---
Tags: prusa-i3, mechanics, p3steel
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thread-3985 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3985 | How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life? | 2017-05-03T23:03:52.200 | # Question
Title: How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life?
I've been using a printer for several years now and I've never replaced any of my extruder hardware (nozzles, steppers, gears etc.). I was wondering how long you should expect your extruder hardware to last? Is it indefinite, or are there normal life expectancies on them?
Also, what signs should you look for, in your prints, that would suggest that your nozzle is starting to wear out?
I'm more interested in the parts that contact your filament directly - I'm painfully familiar with replacing gantry parts (X-Y belts and pulleys).
# Answer
*This is highly dependent upon the type and quality of filament you use.*
***Exotic*** materials such as wood, metalic, or otherwise infused plastics can potentially wear out the inside of the nozzle and at the very least leave deposits of composite material in the nozzle. This can lead to more frequent or irreversible clogs. You may also notice your prints becoming "stringy-er" (sorry for lack of vocabulary at the moment) as the volume of your nozzle reduces with more deposits sitting in the basin of the nozzle, therefore leading to lighter extrusions against what your slicer is expecting.
Lower quality materials (common ABS/PLA) can also have an effect on your nozzles life span. So can good quality filament, don't get me wrong. However, lower quality materials have a tendency to go through much more drastic material changes during the printing process than better quality filaments. For instance, a lower quality PLA may not be 100% PLA. It could have 10% Nylon, 5% ABS, 0.1% operator's BandAid, and 83% PLA. Well, the 17% of the filament that isn't PLA has the potential to clog the nozzle just as easily as the *exotic* filaments. This is why it's so important to verify the quality of your source of filaments.
Some signs that your nozzle may be wearing:
* It simply clogs more frequently
* The printed part looks "stringy" or "bubbly". The "stringy" effect is that the extruder is not extruding at a fast enough rate for the speed of the motion, which is common if your extruder is about to clog, your filament is crappy quality, or your slicing settings are invalid for your machine. The "bubbly" effect can be from an overheated extruder or another sign that your nozzle is about clogged.
* Your filament begins curling around the nozzle as it initially comes out. Typically there is a burr or something that catches the filament on its way out that you can simply take a small file to grind it off, but sometimes it may be because there is the build-up of deposits towards one side of the basin.
> 15 votes
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Tags: hardware, replacement-parts, life-expectancy
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thread-3989 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3989 | Can you print at 0.3 mm with a 0.2 mm nozzle? | 2017-05-04T07:17:47.683 | # Question
Title: Can you print at 0.3 mm with a 0.2 mm nozzle?
I recently ordered some spare E3D 0.4 mm nozzles. However, there was a mix up at the factory and they delivered 0.2 mm nozzles instead.
I usually print at 0.3 mm using a 0.4 mm nozzle. Can I still use the 0.2 mm nozzles to print at a resolution of 0.3 mm?
# Answer
To get the best results, the plastic coming out of the nozzle needs to be squished/ironed down by the nozzle. If you are using a higher layer height than nozzle size, this does not happen. Instead, you are taking a 0.2mm diameter string of plastic and folding it back onto itself to create a thicker 0.3mm bead.
Triffid\_Hunter's calibration guide recommends using a layer height that is not higher than 80% of your nozzle size, so with a 0.4mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.32mm, and with a 0.2mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.16mm.
While it is not impossible to print thicker layers with a smaller nozzle, the results won't be as good. Moreover, if you are used to working with a 0.4mm nozzle then swapping to a 0.2mm nozzle may take some getting used to, as printing with smaller nozzles is more difficult (for example, the smaller the nozzle, the higher the likelihood of clogs).
> 7 votes
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Tags: layer-height
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thread-3981 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3981 | Second layer of ASA print 'runs' | 2017-05-03T11:08:47.357 | # Question
Title: Second layer of ASA print 'runs'
I am using a Prusa i3 MK2 to do a print in ASA, and I'm having a problem where on the second layer the plastic 'runs' into lines **across** the direction the head travels. It looks like the plastic is being repelled by the previous layer and running together due to surface tension, but I may be wrong about this.
I thought I had managed to solve this problem previously by reducing the temperature to 230 °C (1<sup>st</sup> layer) / 225 °C (other layers), but having changed some of the other settings this is no longer solving the problem. I have tried reducing the temperature as low as 215 °C / 210 °C, and this is still happening.
Here is a photograph of the first and second layers:
The direction of head travel for the first layer was bottom left \<-\> top right, and for the second layer top left \<-\> bottom right.
The settings were based on the standard Prusa i3 MK2 Slic3r settings bundle for ABS filament with a 0.05 mm layer height, modified as follows:
* print temperature reduced to 230 °C / 225 °C
* fan speed increased slightly to 15 % as on 10 % the fan doesn't start.
* layer height for first 14 layers: 0.2 mm
* extrusion widths set to Slic3r defaults
* various print speeds reduced, mainly the travel speed.
* number of top and bottom layers reduced because of the increased layer height.
The reason for increasing the layer height for the first 14 layers is that the print is a piece of mixed raised text and braille lettering intended to be inset into a larger sign. I want fine detail for the top layers with the lettering, but high speed for the lower layers that are more structural. I am inserting an `M600` change filament manually into the G-Code file at the point where the lettering starts. I have so far managed to produce one successful print - see the image below. The reason I am still playing with the settings is that the good print wasn't in high enough quality, and there was some slight stringing between letters.
The good print was based on a 0.1 mm layer height for the lettering, modified to 0.15 mm for the lower layers, with a temperature of 230 °C / 225 °C.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I've now worked out the reason for the plastic 'running' on the second layer. It is because of the way that I prepared the G-Code file, using the option in Slic3r which lets you alter the layer height for certain layers in the print. The problem with this appears to be that there are other settings which are not altered at the same time for the thicker layers. So the first half of the file ends up printed using the settings that work for a 0.05 mm layer height, but with the layer height set to 0.2 mm.
I have prepared a new file by rendering two G-Code files, one using the Prusa settings for a 0.2 mm layer height, and the other using a 0.05 mm layer height. I then merged these manually by looking for the layer change at 2.8 mm in both files and appending the end of the 0.05 mm file to the start of the 0.2 mm file. (I found the layer changes by using Slic3r's custom G-Code option, and adding custom comments into the G-Code which included the layer number and height on every layer change). Then I inserted an M600 'Change filament' instruction at a height of 3.05 mm, where the writing begins.
When I print this file, the problem with the plastic running together on the second layer disappears.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, slic3r, asa
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thread-3996 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3996 | Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS | 2017-05-05T01:36:50.657 | # Question
Title: Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS
As mentioned in my previous question, I have some bed-levelling issues with my printer. Following the link in @tjb1's answer I figured they were all about to be solved - just follow the steps and bim, bam, flat printing aligned with the plane of the bed. I was wrong. Firmware is Marlin 1.1.0-RC8
From minow.blogspot.com:
> For Marlin in Marlin.ino.Marlin.pde
>
> DELTA\_RADIUS is DELTA\_SMOOTH\_ROD\_OFFSET - DELTA\_EFFECTOR\_OFFSET -DELTA\_CARRIAGE\_OFFSET To correct the problem, the best course is to change one of the variables set earlier to force the value of DELTA\_RADIUS to increase(to lower the extruder nozzle) or to decrease (to raise the nozzle).
>
> To lower the extruder nozzle increase DELTA\_RADIUS by increasing DELTA\_SMOOTH\_ROD\_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER\_RADIUS(Repetier).
>
> To raise the extruder nozzle, decrease DELTA\_RADIUS by decreasing DELTA\_SMOOTH\_ROD\_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER\_RADIUS(Repetier). For your first cycle, if you are above the build surface, increase DELTA\_RADIUS by (about) the same amount. If the extruder nozzle hits the build surface, decrease DELTA\_RADIUS.
>
> Next, repeat the ABC tower calibration process. Changing the DELTA\_RADIUS changes the tower calibrations, so you must cycle through the process of adjusting the ABC buttons/scripts again. And when the ABC towers are set, test the center D button/script.
>
> You may have to repeat this a few times with smaller changes to DELTA\_RADIUS, but eventually, the drag on a piece of paper should be the same at all four locations. Now the printer knows how to print flat at a given Z height.
So I did that. It's about 5-6mm high in the center of the bed. On point in front of the 3 towers. And it stays pretty much there (less than one 'precision' business card movement, if any) when DELTA\_SMOOTH\_ROD\_OFFSET is increased, increased more, or decreased, for that matter - we started wondering if there was a sign error issue and tried the other way.
There is mention on the page of "turning off EEPROM" lest values be over-ridden by those in EEPROM, but the text appears to suggest that it's a Repetier-firmware-specific problem. So I was not expecting to have it in Marlin. Does it also apply to Marlin, or:
**TL;DR mode: why would changes that *should* affect the "DELTA\_RADIUS" to get the printer on plane with the bed be ineffective?**
\]
# Answer
> 0 votes
OK, so a little more poking around finds that it **does** seem to be loading values from EEPROM and ignoring the configuration files. So that's **not** Repetier-firmware-specific.
...and I found M665 in G-code which lets me just set a value for it, then M500 saves it to said EEPROM. And it's making a difference (so much of one that I may need to reset Zmax before I can actually adjust it all out as the endpoints on the bed are now off, but they are all 4 much closer to being off by the same amount!)
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Tags: delta
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thread-3470 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3470 | I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB | 2017-01-26T10:30:00.143 | # Question
Title: I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB
I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I get the following:
```
[...]
Connected to machine!
SENT: T0
READ: ok 0
READ: wait
SENT: M105
READ: ok 0
READ: T:24.44 /0 B:23.33 /0 B@:0 @:0
Connection failed.
```
My other printers all connect fine.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The Simplify3D support site mentions to disable the "wait for startup command" option in the firmware configuration for S3D.
This allows me to make a rudimentary connection to control the printer, however e.g. during the bed levelling wizard of S3D, the connection still breaks off.
It works reliably with Octoprint. I'll consider that good enough.
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you are using a USB 3 port to connect the printer to your PC, try connecting via a USB 2 hub.
My Vector 3 will not work on a USB 3 port, only on a USB 2 or lower. The device correctly mounts and presents but serial communication fails. One of my laptops only has USB 3 ports on it, so to work around the limitation I connect via a cheap USB 2 hub.
I have heard that many 3D printers use a similar USB to UART / serial connector chip and that they suffer from similar limitations as a result.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Try changing your port in the control menu. By default, mine is set to `COM 1` and I have to change it to `COM 3`.
---
Tags: software, electronics, simplify3d, usb, tronxy-p802
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thread-3823 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3823 | 101Hero 3D Printer - Printed object is tilted | 2017-04-04T03:13:47.447 | # Question
Title: 101Hero 3D Printer - Printed object is tilted
I am facing a problem with my 3D print. Whenever I am printing any object, the print from the top is shifting to the right hand side - it is symmetric at the bottom but not at the top.
Checkout the photo below:
# Answer
You appear to have a couple of issues here,
First off your nozzle appears to be a bit hot for your filament (you can see this be the drooping and sagginess of the layers on the outer shell)
Second issue is it appears as though your belts are loose. You can tell if your belts are loose if your parts seem to be shifted in one way.
Third issue (maybe). You may want to try slowing down your nozzle speed slightly. The faster the extruder moves, the more inertia that is generated which in effect makes your belt act as a spring and will cause it to bounce along the axis while it's printing. Slowing it down will result in your belt acting more like a rigid member and help to clean up the outer layers of your print. Also, it's easier on your belts. The downside is that your parts will take a bit longer to print. In my experience, parts that look great but take a bit longer are well worth the wait.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The usual cause here is a loose belt on the X or Y drive, leading to hysteresis and a shift in the perceived origin of the system. Try tightening the belts and adding tensioners.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Make sure you are using cura 15.02.1, also download the configuration file from the 101hero website, and upload it to cura using the" open profile" button. Make sure your extruder temp is set to 198. I use a 113% flow rate on my 101hero.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, 3d-models, 3d-design, ultimaker-cura, 101-hero
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thread-3351 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3351 | Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8 | 2017-01-07T17:25:53.840 | # Question
Title: Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8
I bought an Anet A8 over christmas. When I bought my printer from Gearbest, I also bought the inductive sensor that they sell.
It doesn't seem to work, and I think it might be broken. However, I have no idea how I can test if it is broken. This is what the wiring looks like and how it's connected to the board
I'm not sure if I need to modify the wiring in order to hook it up to the A8's motherboard. I have no idea what the pinout is on the A8's mobo, and it's not indicated either. Most guides deal with using RAMPS when it comes to installing such a sensor. I'd like to know how to connect this to my board, if possible.
The printer works fine otherwise, so I don't think the board is broken or anything. For now I've resumed using the normal endstop, but I would like to enable bed levelling by installing this sensor. (or a different one if necessary)
How do I get this working?
# Answer
I am not entirely familiar with the ANET A8 electronics, but it's very unlikely it's any different from how any other mainboard works, so any instructions that work for RAMPS should work for your board as well.
The sensor you linked to has an operating voltage range of "6V to 36V". However, the endstop connectors (on any mainboard I've come across) only provide 5V - not enough for the sensor to work. You could verify that this is also the case for your ANET board with a multimeter.
(Assuming the colour coding is standard) you'll need to connect the black wire to GND, the red wire to 12V, and the yellow wire **through a diode** to the signal pin of the endstop connector. The anode of the diode should connect to the signal pin and the cathode to the wire coming from the sensor.
The diode is required, because otherwise the 12V signal from the sensor will damage your electronics, which can only accept 5V. Any ordinary diode will do (for instance 1N4148). You should enable endstop pullups in your firmware when using this method (though if your board already has physical pullups this is not necessary but won't hurt either).
Note that if the sensor is inductive, it will also need an appropriate (metal) surface to trigger off. Unfortunately, it is not clear from the product description what type of sensor you have bought, and (amusingly) gearbest doesn't know either:
> Question:
>
> Hello, is this Sensor capazitiv or induktiv? Thank you verry much.
>
> Reply:
>
> It is an auto leveling sensor for 3D printers
> 2 votes
# Answer
You will have to:
1. Find and print something on Thingiverse to mount sensor;
2. Change firmware to Skynet and change the offset values accordingly, in order for the new sensor to recognize the bed.
There is official Facebook page of Anet A8 printers as well as Skynet firmware. You can ask there if you need further help. Though the above steps are easy.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I'm guessing you have the Anet sensor? If so and you are using the stock firmware that came with your A8 - it's not going to recognise the sensor but you can download and flash the Anet A8L firmware that is designed to run with the sensor from the Anet site - I stumbled on this while searching for stock firmware.
I hope this helps you out.
> 0 votes
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Tags: electronics, anet-a8
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thread-4010 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4010 | Can I repurpose the ISP pins in the lower right corner of the Melzi board? | 2017-05-07T20:15:46.773 | # Question
Title: Can I repurpose the ISP pins in the lower right corner of the Melzi board?
**Background:** *I have many years of experience with AVR and ARM Cortex PLCs and I feel very comfortable using them in projects but I am not an EE or SE. So, if I make a mistake or misunderstand something, keep that in mind. Thanks.*
I cracked open the case on my Maker Select v2.1 and I noticed that I have a 2x3 header that is labeled ISP. This is fairly standard for the AVR PLCs and the Melzi board that I have uses the ATMEGA1284P.
I have asked at numerous forums and nobody seems to really know the answer (the downside to RepRap--people use but don't fully understand).
I'm wondering if I can tweak the Repetier firmware (I'm using the stock version 0.91) to use the ISP headers as a standard SPI bus. It has the SCK, MOSI, and MISO pins but it doesn't have the SS pin.
What I want to do is put a port expander on the SPI bus and break out additional usable GPIOs.
So, is there a hardware limitation or any other reason why I wouldn't be able to repurpose the ISP headers into an SPI bus?
# Answer
> 6 votes
In theory, you can; but, you may need those pins to attach an external programmer to bring your system back to life when playing around with the code.
Here are a couple of articles that could help if you still want to pursue that path:
Another option (the one I chose) is to just buy a RAMPS board set. I got one on ebay for $19 and it have lots of more options for IO. That way you can play and still go back and plug in your stock Melzi and print whenever you need it.
I got all this for $40 - boards, display, cables, power supply, and even shipping
Here is a really nice detailed description of converting a Duplicator i3 from Melzi to RAMPS. The process would likely be very similar for your printer.
The biggest challenge will likely be setting up the firmware
BTW, what printer did you get?
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Tags: reprap, repetier
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thread-3861 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3861 | FDM layer bonding strength | 2017-04-15T19:48:06.630 | # Question
Title: FDM layer bonding strength
I'm looking for some advice, rules of thumb, or models for how to design parts for layer bonding strength.
As an example part, lets assume a circular beam in bending (tall cylinder). Depending on how the part is setup on the build platform (tube axis aligned parallel to Z, or setup to lay in the X-Y plane) the layers and internal structure will then be different depending on the orientation chosen at the time of building. Does/has anyone done any investigation to what roles these factors will play on simple shapes like a solid cylinder?
Ideally, with a CNC'd, injection molded part the total strength of a solid part is quite easy to model (mathematically) for strength and flexibility. However, with a 3D printed part the orientation makes the isotropic material properties effectively anisotropic, as layers don't bond perfectly, different cooling rates, and a host of other reasons.
Ideally I'd love to find a 'simplified' model that can be applied to hand-calculations to come up with rough approximations to part strength and bending. My guess is that these parts would be modeled something similar to an ABD matrix, similar to composite materials, but that's just a guess.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I have not been able to find a simple model for FDM part strength. FDM parts are pretty complicated as they have a LOT more things that affect their strength than just layer adhesion. Since any "solid" part will have infill, the part can't really be modeled as a laminant. There are so many settings you can play with in the slicer that effects part strength, the model would have to have tens (if not hundreds) of parameters. Also, you would likely have to establish them for your own printer since lots of things can affect them (like room temp, ventilation, humidity, material, material storage, ...)
One empirical example discussing the affects of FDM choices on part strength is a video done by Angus at Marker's Muse. In the video he discussed how orientation and wall thickness affects strength. Angus is not a math/ME guy (by his own admission). FEA or other modeling would not be his approach; but, you can get some insight from his experience.
On the modeling front, I have seen one company that did create an FEA model to test whether their product would be strong enough if they produced it using FDM. Here is the publication they wrote showing their analysis approach. It will give you some insight on how they approached what I think you want to do.
Note: They do offer a service where you can pay to have your part analyzed for a considerable amount of money. I have no idea how much money; but, based on jobs I have quoted in the past, I would expect it would be a least a few hundreds dollars.
As for me, I really enjoy basing my decisions on models and understanding how a part/process works. In this case; however, an empirical/experimental approach might be more cost effective. If you really want to take an analytical approach (and have the time to spend doing it), I would recommend choosing several key parameters and run an analysis using DOE (Design of Experiments).
If you come up with something, I would love to see it posted here.
Good luck and happy printing.
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, print-strength
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thread-3884 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3884 | Snap-in clamp geometry | 2017-04-18T23:28:24.900 | # Question
Title: Snap-in clamp geometry
I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.
I am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.
I am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface. I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be. It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.
Is there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry? I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax. It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.
I don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files. The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.
Thanks.
Edit: Per requests for additional information:
* I am not sure what is considered a "thin" wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).
* I would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.
* The clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.
* With my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.
Edit 2:
Based on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:
The little nubbins in the back fit into the "neck" at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock. 220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work.
# Answer
Based on the links and insights provided, I was able to adjust my design to that shown in Edit 2. I opted to instead have it professionally printed via Sculpteo for a very reasonable price, and can say that the design works as intended.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I am sure someone much smarter will be able to point you towards datasheets and maths equations that will tell you exactly what you could/can't do, however, I would say it depends on a few things:
* Material - some materials have more give/flexibility, others have less. Depending how hot you expect the caps/surrounding components to get may also influence choices.
* Wall thickness - Are you just after a 'thin walled' print, or something more solid. Thinner walls tend to be more flexible.
* Reusability - are you going to snap the cap in once or twice, or thousands of times?
I would hazard a guess that about 210-220 degrees of "surrounding" would be enough.
Can you try it and see? Or do you only have one shot?
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-design, print-strength
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thread-4026 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4026 | How can I insulate my thermistor? | 2017-05-09T16:58:42.367 | # Question
Title: How can I insulate my thermistor?
I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block.
Is there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the thermistor into the block?
# Answer
For an illustration of how to employ the Kapton tape, that is mentioned in the answers from Harvey Lim and Howler, watch How to build a RepRap Prusa i3 (Assembly 7) at 21:30:
From 15:10 the heater and thermistor is connected up, you may find this also useful. Note that, at 20:45, the heatshrink is only used over the soldered connection, and *not* all the way up to the heatblock:
Also, more pertinent to your printer, from Anet A8 Review – Best cheap 3D Printer?, see that the thermistor wires are also wrapped in Kapton tape in this photo:
Note that the Kapton tape is wrapped around the wires, almost right up to the thermistor, and will be touching the heating block, when the thermistor is inserted into the hole - there is no problem of it melting, due to its high melting point.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can use kapton tape, small PTFE tube, or silicone tape. I use PTFE on my delta printer (I do have a silicone tape wrapped around my heat block, but that's to help with keeping the heat in the block, not for eletrical insulation (although it would work for that)). These will all handle the temperatures of your heat block fairly well.
> 4 votes
# Answer
You could use Kapton tape to tape the thermistor. It is usually the best option for sticking something onto the hotend or on the heat block. You will also have less trouble since it is very thin.
Note that if you use Kapton tape, you should use several layers of it for added insulation.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Ok, so I think I have found the answer. You can get cotton wraps for print heads with some Kapton tape on them, see 10Pcs 3mm Thickness 3D Printer Heating Cotton Hotend Nozzle Heat Insulation. I think this will work best as long as it doesn't catch on fire.
Please let me know if there is a better alternative but for now I will use these.
> 2 votes
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Tags: heat-management, thermistor
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thread-3097 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3097 | Steel versus MDF/Aluminium Y axis plate? | 2016-11-27T13:57:52.213 | # Question
Title: Steel versus MDF/Aluminium Y axis plate?
I have purchased a P3Steel v.4 kit that, rather unfortunately, comes with a *steel* Y plate.
I understand that there may be interia, as well as stepper motor wear, issues related to the weight of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version 4.0 :
> We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis.
However, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium.
I have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However, I was wondering whether there would be *significantly* less interia if using an MDF Y axis plate, than with an aluminium plate.
I assume that the masses/densities of aluminium and MDF are comparable, and a magnitude less than that of steel.
I have found the densities of aluminium and steel:
> Aluminium 2.7x10<sup>3</sup> kg/m<sup>3</sup> (167 lb/ft<sup>3</sup>)
>
> Steel 7.82x10<sup>3</sup> kg/m<sup>3</sup> (488 lb/ft<sup>3</sup>)
\[Source: Densities of Solids - Engineering ToolBox\]
The density of MDF is given as 700–720 kg/m<sup>3</sup> (43.7-44.95 lb/ft<sup>3</sup>), which is a magnitude less than that of aluminium. \[Source: Medium-density fibreboard\]
There is the issue that MDF can eventually warp, whereas aluminium supposedly does not, although the OP of Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped shows that warpage *is* possible with aluminium plate - see Is the weather a problem for MDF frames? and Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?<sup>1</sup>.
---
### TL;DR
Considering the benefits of weight/inertia, stiffness and lack of deformation/warping:
* Is the difference in density between steel versus aluminium and/or MDF, make it worth switching from steel to aluminium or MDF?
* Is the additional weight loss of MDF over aluminium worth the risk of deformation of the MDF due to humidity/temperature?
---
**Notes**
<sup>1</sup> I found this question *after* having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am concentrating more of the comparison of aluminium and MDF in this post, rather than just steel versus aluminium. Also, my question deals with the Y axis heatbed *support*, rather than the heatbed itself.
# Answer
I have not used MDF for building a printer before; but, I have used it for other projects. It has the advantage of being very flat (initially); but, it has a LOT of issues with moisture. It is basically just a compressed slurry or water-based glue and sawdust. If you expose it to humidity or water it will swell like a sponge. I would not consider it for anything that requires a dimensional stability. For that, Aluminum is your better bet.
Regarding the material properties of AL vs MDF, here is a good comparison:
Note that while MDF has about 1/4 the density of AL, it has a MUCH lower Elastic Modulus (1/17 of AL) For the same thickness, it MDF is MUCH easier to bend than AL. Also note the strength to weight ratio of AL is also better.
Even at twice the thickness, my calculations indicate that, for the same load, 6mm MDF would deflect about twice as far as 3mm AL. Also when AL exists its elastic region it becomes plastic (bends) where MDF breaks.
Another aspect to consider is flammability. There a lot of heat sources around an FDM printer and if you are planning on a heated bed, there is one right there under the bed. Where MDF is hard to ignite, it is flammable and does not respond to heat well. On the other hand, AL can handle temperatures over 1000 degC and is a great thermal conductor for a bed heater.
I would definitely choose AL over MDF for you printer bed.
Another option to consider it is using a bare PCB (like FR4). The material is really strong (it is fiberglass), is relatively inexpensive, and is fire resistant (hence the"FR" in the name). Some commercial printers use FR4 for their print bed. One disadvantage is that is can sometimes develop a curl and there is really no way to get it flat again.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, y-axis
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thread-4022 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4022 | Is there a G-code to get power supply state? | 2017-05-09T14:06:03.460 | # Question
Title: Is there a G-code to get power supply state?
I'm using `M80` and `M81` G-codes to power on/off power supply.
Is there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Thanks! I confirmed that there isn't such a G-code. I sent a pull request to make this posible: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/6671
Now, "M80 S" reports the current state of the power supply.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't see one at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code so it's probably safest to set the power supply to the state you want.
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Tags: marlin, reprap, g-code, switching-power-supply
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thread-3705 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3705 | 3D printer test troubles (M999 error, motors do not move) | 2017-03-09T20:04:52.797 | # Question
Title: 3D printer test troubles (M999 error, motors do not move)
I've been recently building a 3D printer and I'm having issues testing it.
This is my hardware:
* RAMPS 1.4
* Arduino Mega 2560
* 4x Pololu Motor shields A4988
* 1x Nema 17 extruder
* 2x floppy stepper motor
* 1x DVD stepper motor
* Generic hotend with 0,4 mm nozzle
Then I assembled everything and I started testing... I tried the RAMPS test code and it didn't work (motors did not move, but I'm sure they are OK), then I tried using Marlin and Pronterface; it showed hotend temperature stuck at 150°C, but the hotend was not hot. Moreover the motors would not move.
I also tried Repetier host and it returned an M999 error without any further explanation.
I had no problem installing firmware on the Arduino and the fan of the hotend is working. I also tried changing baud rate but it seemed not to work.
# Answer
Two immediate issues I can think of are:
* Do the floppy drive and DVD drive stepper motors have sufficient torque to turn whatever you have connected them to? You don't say what sort of printer you have built, but a holding toque of 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more, is desirable. Maybe you should consider upgrading your floppy ad DVD drive motors to Nema 17 motors... See RepRapWiki - Nema 17 for more details.
* Do you have the correct thermistor selected in the firmware? Check your firmware configuration file.
To further check the thermistor, disconnect it from the RAMPS board, and using a multimeter, check its resistance at room temperature. Then compare it with the temperature characteristic graph of *your* thermistor type. A general 10K thermistor has the following response curve (source):
Does the reading that your multimeter gives, seem reasonable?
Also check the RAMPS thermistor input, by shorting the thermistor pins on the RAMPS board (using a jumper). What is the temperature reading now? It should be whatever `MAX_TEMP` is defined as, typically around 400°C. Again, check your firmware configuration file.
---
In addition, `M999` is not an error, but a command used to reset the firmware/printer, after an error has occurred.
> 2 votes
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Tags: ramps-1.4, diy-3d-printer
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thread-3782 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3782 | Error: Dry mode when moving Z-Axis | 2017-03-22T20:02:09.020 | # Question
Title: Error: Dry mode when moving Z-Axis
My printer just stopped working. It seems like it's working perfectly, but it gives me an error whenever I move the Z-Axis (Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restart) then, the bed temperature appears to be at 293ºC when it's actually at 95ºC.
I suspect that the bed wires short-circuited since they got stuck behind the bed when the printer was moving Y-Axis to home (the wires blocked the movement). Since then, the error appeared.
I suspect that the controller board could have been harmed by the supposed short-circuit, but despite the error, I can move perfectly any axis; I can heat the bed and the extruder; I can extrude filament; it is just the error which doesn't let me print.
**Printer:** Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3
**Software:** MatterHackers: MatterControl 1.7
**Update:** The bed temperature is stuck at ~95ºC, sometimes ~250ºC, even if I disconnect the sensor wires and restart the printer, so apparently, it's failing to read the bed temperature.
# Answer
I bought a new board controller and it's working perfectly
> 0 votes
# Answer
Try checking the wiring on your motherboard and all of the connections to your steppers. When I first had my printer, the z-axis didn't work because a wire was loose. I took apart the control box on my Di3 and made sure everything was firmly connected, and after that everything worked fine.
> 0 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-361 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/361 | Advantages of PETG filament? | 2016-01-21T00:22:14.333 | # Question
Title: Advantages of PETG filament?
I was just shopping for filament, and saw some glowing claims about PETG being as easy to work with as PLA, but as strong as ABS, and less brittle. Anyone know if that's actually true, or what the tradeoffs are?
# Answer
PETG is great stuff to work with. It is stronger than ABS also. It prints slower than ABS and PLA. The formulas vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I have used 3 brands, and each of their properties vary.
From my experience you do have to be careful with moisture. You'll be able to tell you have moisture in your filament if you start hearing a slight hissing and popping and an increased number of structural zits on the object. Moisture will also increase the problem listed in Mark's post below regarding the accumulation of filament on the nozzle.
> 12 votes
# Answer
I have never used ABS, because I have a young child at home and no ventilation system (just to be safe). I have however used PETG, a crystal clear brand competitively priced on AMA-ssive online retailer, I loved it and will probably only buy it in the future.
**Advantages Noted:**
* There is no odor I could detect
* It is remarkably clear, like glass using a large nozzle (1.2) and layer diameter.
* It flexes without breaking I'm guessing what seems like about 10-15% more than PLA. In other words if I print a large circular ring I can squeeze the ring about 10 to 15% farther without the ring cracking or breaking.
* The material itself is more dense, identically printed items have more weight to them and feel sturdy.
* It has a higher glass transition temperature
**Disadvantages noted:**
* It's a little more expensive, but not prohibitively so (like carbon fiber).
* It requires a higher printing temperature, so uses more power.
* I havent perfected my retraction settings, and I have read others having similar issues with excess stringing. IOW it oozes more than PLA.
* Switching between this and PLA requires extra care and time to ensure the nozzle is clear. I guess that is the same with any other alternate material as well.
> 13 votes
# Answer
In addition to what @AsaDeDeBuck said, PETG is also more flexible than PLA, and less stinky than ABS. Furthermore, some PETG variants like to accumulate on the nozzle (particulate build up) and then char a bit before being deposited at some random spot on the object.
> 7 votes
# Answer
PETG is great, but definitely not as easy to print as PLA. However the advantages of higher impact resistance, temperature resistance and longevity make it superior to PLA for parts that require those properties. ABS is even harder to print than PETG and has worse strength and layer adhesion so no reason to bother with it in my opinion.
I print PETG at 80°C bed temp on PEI bed material, with 250°C nozzle temp. At first I was trying my old BuildTak bed material and it works at 40°C but the base of my parts was warping up some, it still worked but they didn't come out flat.
If you raise the temp on BuildTak to 80°C bed then the PETG permanently bonds to the BuildTak and rips up pieces of it upon removal.
PEI at 80°C keeps the base of printed parts perfectly flat (up to a certain part size/thickness) and has good adhesion and release properties with no wear showing on the bed after many prints.
If your parts are 100% infill and over about 3/4" (20 mm) tall you may still have problems with the base not ending up completely flat. In such large rigid parts the upper area that does not stay properly heated through conduction from the bed will shrink some and pull the lower sections up with it. Lower fill density like 50%, 20% help with this problem.
PETG build up on the nozzle was a real problem for me until I got a silicone sleeved hotend, E3D is the only one who makes them that I know of right now, but I am sure there will be others shortly. This completely fixed the problem of filament sticking to the hot nozzle and later being deposited as black charred blobs.
Another thing to consider is moisture, after even a day in high humidity PETG absorbs enough moisture to undergo hydrolysis upon extrusion at 250°C and become very brittle. To avoid this I use a conventional food dehydrator with the plastic being fed from inside, you can lookup designs on Thingiverse.
> 7 votes
# Answer
I love PETG. When I first started I always used ABS because I thought it was the best and didn't see the point in using PLA. However, after a few years of playing around I no longer use ABS. I use PLA for when I am testing and PETG when I want to print something that will be used, ike parts or models.
PETG is a little more expensive, however worth it, as it is strong and easy to use. I normally print at 220°C on the nozzle and 80°C for the bed.
PETG has more flex to it so when you are printing parts it is less likely to break under pressure like ABS.
> 3 votes
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Tags: filament, material, print-material
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thread-4044 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4044 | Bed Adhesion materials | 2017-05-11T20:12:39.170 | # Question
Title: Bed Adhesion materials
There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.
Is there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?
My biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base.
# Answer
I use a product called 3DLAC but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes my PLA stick to the heated bed like a charm. After cooling down the print can be removed from the bed with ease.
Only today, after a few thousand prints the glass bed of my printer broke. But I suppose this is because we didn't have enough patience to let the bed cool down to room temperature before removing the printed piece.
> 4 votes
# Answer
If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose.
There is a commercial product going under the name MagHold. I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have it on three of my printers, works great.
For best results overall I recommend PEI material on top of the spring steel plate. the PEI works great for PLA at 50°C and PETG at 80°C. And you can still break both materials loose easily by twisting the plate. No damage to the sides of your parts from prying.
> 4 votes
# Answer
I already spent time reading up on this and quickly worked out there is a lot of useless products out there. Sure they may work however it adds a massive cost to your print.
What I have found works best for heated glass beds is Glue stick, nice and cheap, lasts a long time and has never let me down. Bed temperature is also very important to get right however out of all the products I have tried, Glue Stick works the best.
> 2 votes
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Tags: adhesion
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thread-4042 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4042 | Choosing the most high quality, reliable 3D printer | 2017-05-11T15:07:09.883 | # Question
Title: Choosing the most high quality, reliable 3D printer
I work in a biological laboratory where we have been using the FABtotum personal fabricator for several months now. The machine is good, however not flawless, and has set us back from doing experiments.
I have overcome many common 3D printing issues, which I find necessary to do when becoming proficient in this technique. However the printer has also had its own personal mechanical and software issues.
Our lab is seeking a printer that is more reliable, can produce parts relatively quick, good resolution, and it is nice if it has multiple modes (i.e FDM, SLA, and even 3D scanning is nice). This is what we figured we were getting with the FABtotum, but as I mentioned it has produced setbacks.
Now I would love to tinker with the printer and modify it to my needs, but unfortunately our lab is strapped for time, however we have funding for a higher quality printer if there is one.
Can you anyone recommend a printer fitting these needs in these budget categories?:
* 3000 USD
* 5000 USD
* 8000 USD or more
I know price doesn't equate quality, but I am saying that we are willing to pay more if that is where the quality lies.
For example, I have come across the Form 2, Ultimaker, and BCN3D sigma printers which seem quite nice. Any opinions are very appreciated.
# Answer
> 3 votes
At work we have a Stratasys Polyjet. It prints using UV cured gel; so, it is kind of a cross between FDM and SLA. I have not used it personally, it is mostly used byt the ME group. The parts I have seen that it produces are VERY good and it support different materials and even multiple materials. They have a lot of different product levels so they can support different price points. The only complaint I have heard is the material cost.
It can print some amazing stuff
Here is a nice video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMMJnn\_gHWw
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have only tried 2 different printers. I started with an Up plus printer and it was good to get started. After a few years you really want more control. I did a lot of research and ended up buying the Extrabot. It is based on the ultimaker however the guy that puts them together upgrades the motors and a few other parts to really make them work with multiple filament.
You have control over all the settings so using exotic filaments is a viable option.
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Tags: quality
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thread-4018 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018 | Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing | 2017-05-09T08:58:14.313 | # Question
Title: Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing
I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.
I'm trying to print a calibration cube.
The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C.
As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed.
I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle.
How could I resolve this? Any advice?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Check the following:
* Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.
* Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature?
* Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. See the video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.
* Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.
If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as electrophile points out in their answer) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a *thin coating* to the glass with one of the following:
* Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue
* Using hairspray
Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.
Or by adding an additional *print surface*, such as:
* Using blue painters tape
* Using PEI tape
* Using Kapton tape
* Using BuildTak
If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I've cleaned the heated bed as suggested using ethanol, then I've tested the Z distance of the nozzle from the bed with a paper sheet and it was ok. Lastly, I tried to raise the temperature of the extruder for the first layer to 215°C. I think that this did the trick.
# Answer
> 0 votes
With PLA I normally run the bed at 70 and the extruder at 190. Make sure the bed gets to temperature before you start and use gluestick on the bed.
# Answer
> 0 votes
material sticking problem can be due to following reason:
* bed level
* bed temperature
* z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)
* bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)
remove all above reason step by step
* first confirm bed level
* bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )
all above option are good but warpping chance are higher for last bed surface you have following option to use
* use paper tape
* use Kapton tape
* glue stick
* use paste (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating
if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print
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Tags: filament, ultimaker-cura, adhesion
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thread-4012 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4012 | How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel? | 2017-05-08T14:28:36.757 | # Question
Title: How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel?
TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?
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A case in point, from RepRapWiki - Kossel, there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:
> Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand luggage size limit (see transportation):
>
> * Frame height: 550 mm.
> * Footprint: triangle, 270 mm width, 250 mm across (210 mm 15 x 15 mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).
However, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).
Now, as per my previous question, For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?, is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: *Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware*, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.
I have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.
Looking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Mini and XL:
* 600/240 mm versus 180 mm
* 750/360 mm versus 300 mm
I really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel.
Unless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60 mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150 mm?
By extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000 mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940 mm?
Any ideas?
# Answer
Most information I was able to find was the arms are 80% the length of the horizontal structure. I did find a copy of the original Google Sheets that everyone used a few years ago here. The source of that link did mention that there may have been some issues with it but all of those links were dead ends.
Some things to note:
The height doesn't matter, it has no relationship with the arms other than you are losing approximately the arm length from the height when figuring print area as some arms will approach vertical when reaching the outsides of your print area.
The arm length isn't terribly important from what I could find. Longer arms = less travel of the carriages and possibly lower resolution. Shorter arms = more travel of the carriages and possibly lower print speed due to required movement.
> 1 votes
# Answer
To compliment tjb1's answer, The link seems to go to a spreadsheet that doesn't have any formulae in it. However, I managed to find a copy, from Google groups: How to calculate Delta Dimensions for new build.
However, another source of the Document is Kossel frame calculator (delt...@googlegroups.com). Right at the top is a posting of Johan's (who is the designer of the Kossel) spreadsheet, which is *essentially* the same as before, but it is contained within an interesting message thread.
There are a few more calculators, that a quick google search will throw up, which I have listed in a short blog, Kossel - The Ratio:
I have an enhanced version that allows additional parameters to be modified, see Github: Greenonline/Kossel/Spreadsheets.
---
### Design Process by David Crocker
Apparently, the ratio is *not* particularly vital. I found a design process in the comments section of More upgrades to the large Delta 3D printer:
> The design process goes something like this:
>
> 1. Estimate the size of effector you will need.
> 2. Given that effector size, work out how close to the towers the nozzle will be able to get. From that and the desired printing radius, work out what radius the towers are on.
> 3. That fixes the lengths of the horizontal extrusions. Choose the diagonal rod length so that when at the edge of the bed opposite a tower, the rods to that tower are at 20 degrees or a little more to the horizontal.
> 4. Given that diagonal rod length, choose the rod separation. I suggest about 1/6 of the rod length (this is larger than on my delta).
> 5. If that rod separation means you need a larger effector, repeat from step 1.
> 6. Choose the tower height to give the required print height at the edges of the bed, when one pair of rods may be more or less vertical.
When I queried David about his use of the 0.8 ratio, again in the comments section, on Building a large delta 3D printer, this was his reply:
> The notion that there is a single ratio of diagonal rod to horizontal extrusion length that is right for all delta printers is misguided. It depends on the geometry of the corners that join the horizontals to the towers, the size of the effector, and the carriage design. What matters is that the rods are at no less than 20 degrees (preferably 25 or more) to the horizontal when the nozzle is at the edge of the bed opposite a tower.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, diy-3d-printer, kossel
--- |
thread-4051 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4051 | Parts of my (apparently manifold) model aren't appearing in my Slic3r preview | 2017-05-13T01:29:36.787 | # Question
Title: Parts of my (apparently manifold) model aren't appearing in my Slic3r preview
I have an STL file that, when I load it in Slic3r, looks fine, but somewhere in the actual slicing process, something goes wrong and parts of the model disappear.
That's the render on the left, and the slicing preview on the right. That big hole is the most obvious fault, but there are more little notches elsewhere on the model; you can see a couple on the bottom edge there. It looks like the program is ignoring some of the model's faces entirely. What's all that about?
The model passes every manifoldiness test I've thrown at it: Slic3r's, Meshmixer's, Blender's, and a couple of online services I've forgotten.The walls that go missing are pretty thin, but they're at least a millimeter at their narrowest point, so I think it should be thick enough for the printer to handle.
Here's a link to the STL file in question, on FileHosting.org, FlashHovering.stl.
# Answer
I fixed it!
I had my extruder diameter set to 0.5 mm, and the narrowest point of the model was just a hair under a full millimeter, so I guess the program took it to mean that it should only put down one line of material. I made the walls a little thicker and now it looks fine.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slicing, slic3r
--- |
thread-4048 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4048 | Regarding the E-step in Cura | 2017-05-12T14:51:05.583 | # Question
Title: Regarding the E-step in Cura
I'm using a Delta Wasp 2040 printer equipped with a clay extruder. I'm using Marlin firmware.
I'm trying to print food (vegetable creams) not PLA filament, but my question is about the setting of some of the parameters.
As reported in Marlin, the default values for X, Y, Z, E axes are:
```
* D e f a u l t A x i s S t e p s P e r U n i t ( s t e p s / m m ) * O v e r r i d e w i t h M 9 2 * X , Y , Z , E 0 [ , E 1 [ , E 2 [ , E 3 ] ] ] * /
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
```
My questions are below:
1. The value 500 is intended as mm/min. If so, the actual value should be 8.33 step/mm of filament in a time of 1 s. Is this correct?
2. It is not clear, in my mind, the E-step that I can change in Cura. This is what I believe:
* If I leave in Cura, an E-step=0, then this means that I'm using the default value (500)?
* What happens if I change the E-step value in Cura for instance at +0400? Is it changed from 500 to 400 mm/min, or the value on Cura is intended as a percentage of the default value?
Can you explain to me exactly how the E-step changes when modifying its value in Cura.
# Answer
I can only weigh in on the Marlin side of your question - "The value 500 is intended as mm/min" - uh, no, AFAIK it's steps per mm, just like it says - i.e. with filament, 500 steps per mm of filament fed. Other than not allowing the feedrate parameter to go so high that steps are skipped (which is a different limit) it's time-independent. I suppose with an extruder it would be mm of piston movement, but I don't have an extruder.
In my case, an actual value is closer to 250, and I typically check the calibration with 50 or 100 mm of filament feed so I can make a decent measurement.
I also wonder if your firmware knows it's running on a delta, since mine reports "A, B, C" rather than XYZ and all three towers are the same steps/mm - the "default values" you are looking at might apply to a typical cartesian printer where the Z axis is threaded while the X & Y are toothed belts.
Assuming it runs correctly you might be seeing irrelevant "default values" and having correct values loaded from EEPROM when the system starts (look at the log window when the control system connects to the printer.)
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-3994 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3994 | My Anet A8 prints have been looking squished | 2017-05-04T18:18:25.673 | # Question
Title: My Anet A8 prints have been looking squished
I have recently purchased an Anet A8 but have been wondering why the prints look squished and have tiny balls on them.
I am using 1.75 mm cheap PLA bought from eBay and have also had problems of filament oozing out of the print block.
\]
# Answer
> 3 votes
It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have something loose that needs to be tight. It's hard for me to tell precisely from just these images. In your shoes, I would print 20mm x 20mm x 10mm, 100% infill boxes until I got it dialed in so that it is square, fully filled in, but nice and flat.
If they're coming out square and staying stuck to the build plate properly, but are bumpy and overfilled, then you're over extruding and you'll want to either recalibrate e-steps or if they're correct, adjust your flow rate in the slicer (down).
If they aren't square then you need to square up your frame and tighten it and the belts.
Etc.
But my first guess is that you're extruding too much plastic since I'll bet they were flatter when they were still on the build plate, yes?
On the question of ooze: you'll always get some ooze. Molten plastic and gravity means some will ooze out pretty much no matter what. What you need to worry about is when this results in stringing or unwanted lines on the surface of the print. These things you address with retraction (which reduces the pressure on the nozzle during travel moves, but can't stop gravity) and for the surface problem various travel, z-hop and combing strategies depending on your slicer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
You may be having an over-extrusion issue, you should check the flow rate in whatever slicer you use.
You should also check to make sure that the filament diameter you are using matches that of the diameter setting in your slicer.
# Answer
> 0 votes
So, I think iv diagnosed the problem with the help from you and some guys from Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/topic:15005. I think it is a combination of over extrusion and the hotend. The Hotend was leaking so I have fitted a new one. Unfortunately, the thermostat has broken so I have bought a new one. I will keep you updated and thank you for all of the support, Thomas. Hotend Leaking: https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYqd1.jpg
# Answer
> 0 votes
First, I would check for bed adhesion issues. I would then check the hot-end, when it is warmed up, for any loose parts. I have fixed such issues with a piece of PTFE tape.
I would also check the filament cooler parts, or proximity sensor (if you have one), for possible drag on the printed sections during printing.
---
Tags: filament, anet-a8
--- |
thread-3972 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3972 | Bed won't switch off after Marlin firmware update | 2017-05-01T10:57:16.473 | # Question
Title: Bed won't switch off after Marlin firmware update
After I updated the firmware on my Prusa i3, the Bed won't switch off anymore. It worked perfectly before the update, but now, the moment I power up my printer, the LED on the bed turns on and it starts heating up. The manual control in Repetier Host doesn't turn if off or on and I even tried g-codes `M140 S0` as well as `M0`, but it does not switch it off.
**Edit:** I have an Arduino Mega2560 with a RAMPS shield. The Marlin firmware came pre-configured from the store I bought the kit from.
# Answer
This was actually a coincidental situation where I somehow damaged the RAMPS board around the same time I reloaded the firmware. Replaced the board and it works correctly now
> 2 votes
# Answer
It sounds like the pin configuration in the firmware you flashed doesn't match your hardware. Heaters should never be on by default and M140 S0 should always turn off current to the bed. What you describe sounds like the firmware is sending power to a pin that it believes is something other than what it is, either because the bed is on a fan pin (like D9) or because the firmware thinks D8 is something other than the heated bed.
If it worked before, your original firmware was configured to match how your board was wired, specifically which pins were mapped to what hardware. If you're confident that the new firmware pin configuration is correct, you can ignore this theory. Otherwise you should nail down which D8/D9/D10 pin maps to what hardware and resolve the mismatch.
On RAMPS, pins 8, 9 and 10 are typically used to control fans, hotends and heated beds and you define this behavior in configuration.h. If you flashed from source you should review configuration.h and ensure it matches your hardware. This likely means setting the `MOTHERBOARD` to the value that matches how pins 8/9/10 are wired. See this section (or something similar) in `configuration.h` to get started:
```
// The following define selects which electronics board you have.
// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#endif
```
> 2 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, marlin
--- |
thread-4071 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4071 | How to generate a STL from a rotational solid of two equations? | 2017-05-16T04:02:28.803 | # Question
Title: How to generate a STL from a rotational solid of two equations?
I have a solid of revolution defined by two equations, and I want to generate a STL file for printing from the difference of the two equations, revolved around x=0. I can get a good visualization when I query this on Wolfram Alpha, but I cannot figure out how to download an STL of this. I know there is a way to do this via Wolfram's Development Program but I'm not sure how or if that is the best way to do this. Solutions do not have to involve WA.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The best free solution I could find was to graph this (in Desmos), screenshot it, and convert it into a SVG, convert that into an OpenSCAD file, and then use that to make the STL. A similar process is shown on someone's blog here.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The Wolfram Alpha "Data Download" feature supports STL format, but is only enabled with a Pro Account.
When I click your link to Wolfram, I see the visualization of your equations at the bottom of the page; when I hover over the image, several buttons show below it. One of them is "Data", with a download icon. This gives a number of download options. The File Format drop down includes "STL".
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-4076 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4076 | Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print | 2017-05-16T14:39:16.857 | # Question
Title: Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print
I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.
Right now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.
Problem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?
# Answer
One good option would be to - if possible - change the design, so the nut is inserted from the opposite side, so that the bolt just pulls it in tighter rather than pulling it out.
Another option would be to instead of using a nut, use a brass threaded insert. These are like nuts, except they have ridges that are specifically aimed at locking it inside the plastic.
> 7 votes
# Answer
Instead of super glue, you could try a two part epoxy resin (any brand should do, i.e. Bison Kombi Power or JB Weld). This may take longer to dry, than the super glue, but *should* be much stronger, and deal with torsion forces better<sup>1</sup>.
Or, you could try red (not blue) Loctite. However, the epoxy resin would probably be stronger.
---
<sup>1</sup> This is admittedly an opinionated reference, but from Epoxy or super glue, which is stronger?
> depending on the surface, \[epoxy\] can be superior. Epoxies are generally a must if the surfaces are porous
and
> Epoxy is superior to CA. CA is nearly always misapplied. Epoxy has a higher tolerance to misapplication thus is much less likely to fail under such circumstances. I've used Belzona epoxies to repair parts on various aircraft and spacecraft where welding would be inappropriate! Belzona epoxy is without a doubt the best there is. Too bad you cannot purchase it in Home Depot.
>
> The closest thing you can get though is PC-7.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.
EDIT: Try a bit of acetone, to allow the ABS near the nut to reflow.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, filament, metal-parts
--- |
thread-4090 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4090 | My Prusa i3's Z-axis will only go up | 2017-05-17T22:18:49.950 | # Question
Title: My Prusa i3's Z-axis will only go up
If I send it commands to go up, the steppers rotate things up. If I tell the Z-axis to go down, nothing happens. I inverted the Z-axis in the firmware (by setting the value to true instead of false), and it did the same thing, but the other way around - it would only go down.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It sounds like your Z limit switch is stuck. The firmware will prevent the motor going further down past the limit to prevent damage. Be careful going up because if the firmware doesn't know where the bottom is, it doesn't know where the top is.
I checked my printer (an i3 clone) and the limit switches are wired as NC (normally closed). That means that the circuit opens when the switch is activated. So, if the wire (or switch) is broken, or if it is unplugged, it will behave as if the switch is activated (the behavior you are seeing).
An easy test would be to switch the x-limit and z-limit cables at the controller board. If the problem moves to the x-axis, you have found your problem. BE CAREFUL not to run the motor into the end stop and damage something since there is no limit switch to protect it.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, electronics, z-axis, firmware
--- |
thread-4092 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4092 | How to build Cura on Windows? | 2017-05-18T02:04:37.370 | # Question
Title: How to build Cura on Windows?
I am interested in doing development on Cura. Initially I want to start with the UI rather than the Engine. I have found the repository and have cloned it to my PC. I have also looked over the Wiki and searched the web. For such a popular open-source product, I was surprised I couldn't find a build guide.
Can someone direct me on how to get started. I have a LOT of experience in Software Development (more years and languages than I want to admit to); but, I have never used Python. Consider that in your instructions.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The repository's README.md includes a section titled "Build Scripts", with a link to another repository: https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build
This includes dependencies and instructions for building Cura on Windows.
# Answer
> 2 votes
As you are an experienced developer, these links should help:
This is a related question, but for Ubuntu How to build CuraEngine?
Wikipedia has an informative page on Cura, which lists the Github development pages:
>
Reading the development pages is a good place to start. The Cura Github development page does contain resources for Windows.
The top level Ultimaker Github page contains links to all of the relevant repositories, amongst other useful resources, including:
> * CuraEngine \- CuraEngine is a powerful, fast and robust engine for processing 3D models into 3D printing instruction for Ultimaker and other GCode based 3D printers. It is part of the larger open source project called "Cura".
> * Cura \- 3D printer / slicing GUI built on top of the Uranium framework
> * cura-build \- Build scripts for Cura
---
With respect to Python, I, myself, am slowly making my way through this Python tutorial, Python Code Academy. However, there are a many other good Python tutorials out there, the best resource is probably Python.org.
One thing to note is that Python 2.x and 3.x are markedly different (see Should I use Python 2 or Python 3 for my development activity?). What should I learn as a beginner: Python 2 OR Python 3? is also an interesting read.
---
Tags: software, ultimaker-cura, python, development
--- |
thread-3668 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3668 | Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals? | 2017-02-28T10:04:40.103 | # Question
Title: Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals?
I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10<sup>-7</sup> m (3.9\*10<sup>-6</sup> in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.
If anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really appreciate it.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You can get the 0.1 micron (100 nm) resolution with a 2-photon 3D printer, but only in a polymer resin. Nanoscribe, in Germany, pioneered this technology, see Mechanical Microstructures.
Their commercial printer, the Photonic Professional GT, is about $350,000 US with software and accessories. There is some work being done to replicate the 3D printed polymer in metal using electroless plating or ALD (atomic layer deposition). Other techniques are in development.
None of the direct metal 3D printing processes come close to your 0.1 micron resolution, although the field is rapidly evolving. Only a couple of years ago, direct metal 3D printing was all based on powder bed fusion. Now binder jet technology as been adapted to metals and, very recently, Xjet has developed a nanoparticle 3D printer. It prints "ink" composed of metal or ceramic nanoparticles suspended in a liquid. The minimum layer thickness is 1 to 2 microns. They have not released XY resolution data yet.
A good overall reference for the various 3D printing techniques (including Xjet, but not Nanoscribe) can be found at Explaining The Future - 3D Printing.
# Answer
> 3 votes
There's atom-based-printing 3D printers that only some universities have.
There aren't other 3D printers that can get even 0.001 mm precision, you want 0.0001 mm, that's pretty dicey. Just breathing on the device will make it shift a layer. Just walking on the floor next to such a device would kill it.
This one works with resins though, Ultra-High Resolution 3D Printing at the Micro-Scale with Nanoscribe.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are no 3D printers (that I'm aware of) that can do 0.0001 millimeters, hobbyist or industrial, plastic or metal. For that matter I think you'll be hard pressed to find a CNC mill with that type of tolerances.
Sorry!
# Answer
> -1 votes
Today, only SLA/DLP will give features of that size (if even these technologies do), and I am unaware of anyone using these technologies to print with metals today.
---
Tags: print-quality, print-material, material, metal-printing
--- |
thread-4106 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4106 | How do I give 3D-printed parts in ABS a shiny smooth finish? | 2017-05-19T14:16:04.457 | # Question
Title: How do I give 3D-printed parts in ABS a shiny smooth finish?
The surfaces of my printed parts using ABS plastic look rough and uneven.
What methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?
# Answer
> 5 votes
Acetone can be used to smooth ABS.
The left has been smoothed by an acetone bath and the right is the original model. (Image credit: Andrew Sink)
**Take note**: acetone is dangerous to breathe in, so work in a well ventilated area. It is also flammable.
# Warm acetone vapour bath using stove
This method involves suspending the model in a glass jar of boiling acetone that is heated up by a pot of boiling water.
* Attach the model to the lid of the jar with some string, keep the string short, so the model is close to the lid.
* Put a few centimetres of water in a pot
* Place a rag at the bottom of the pot (to keep the jar stable).
* Place the glass jar in the pot, on top of the rag.
* Place the pot on the stove and heat to 110°C.
* When the acetone is boiling place the dangling model into the jar.
* After a few seconds, remove the model.
See here for a step-by-step guide with pictures.
# Warm acetone vapour bath using printer bed
This method elevating the model in a glass jar of acetone that is heated up by the printer's heatbed.
* Find a non-soluble object that the 3D model can stand on.
* Put a teaspoon of acetone in jar.
* Place the jar on the heatbed and heat to 110°C.
* Place the stand into the jar.
* Place the model on the stand, the stand should not let the acetone touch the model.
* After a few minutes, remove the model.
See here for an example.
---
Tags: abs, post-processing, surface
--- |
thread-4078 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4078 | Does the Da Vinci line of 3D printers come with a heated bed? | 2017-05-16T14:54:42.140 | # Question
Title: Does the Da Vinci line of 3D printers come with a heated bed?
I'm now currently looking at getting my next 3D printer, after my success with the Prusa i3 Reprap Build, and I have had my eyes on the Da Vinci line of printers for some time now.
What I want to know is, does this line of 3D printers include a heated bed? Or does it come with a stock aluminum bed?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Yes. The Da Vinci Duo 2 (most common one) has a heated bed.
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Tags: heated-bed, hardware
--- |
thread-4117 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4117 | I need an acetone substitute | 2017-05-20T20:46:47.597 | # Question
Title: I need an acetone substitute
Acetone is banned in my country, and I cannot get it.
What substitute could I use?
# Answer
The answer really depends on what you are using it for. Is it for dissolving ABS? A quick google search should show you what you want.
The thread, Could you recommend me a suitable alternative to acetone as solvent?, has a good many points that are worth considering:
For example, you may need to consider the *Polarity Index*
> Burdick & Jackson solvents are arranged in order of increasing polarity index, a relative measure of the degree of interaction of the solvent with various polar test solutes.
If you are using it to dissolve a polymer other than ABS, then the family/class of polymer may need to be considered:
> Apart from your desired solvent qualities (non-flammability and low boiling point), the choice will be totally dependent on the family/ class which the polymer belongs. Based on the principal that 'like dissolves like, the attached document will provide you with good ideas on which solvent to use when a particular repeating unit of the polymer is involved.
Butanone is a possibility:
> One alternative is butanone (button-2-one) - this is similar to acetone, but has a much higher boiling point. It is often used for alkylations etc. It has a boiling point of 79-80°C compared to 56°C of acetone.
or NMP:
> N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) can be used. It is a polar aprotic solvent and dissolves many polymers. It has high boiling point ( \>200 degree centigrade) It is soluble in water and easy to dispose which is a great advantage during work up of reactions.
However, some other alternative chemicals are listed here (from Any good alternative to Acetone?:
* Butyl alcohol
* methyl isobutyl keytone (MIBK)
* denatured alcohol
* MEK (methyl,ethyl,ketone), i.e. Kleen-Strip MEK Alternative
* Ethyl Acetate
Some branded items, from Alternatives to Acetone:
> * Surfasolve
>
> > Surfasolve is a 100 percent biodegradable acetone replacement that removes adhesives, degreases tools and works as a resin solvent. Surfasolve is a non-regulated product.
>
> * Bio-Solv
>
> > Bio-Solv is an acetone replacement that is 100 percent biodegradable. It is not deemed a hazmat, so shipping will not cost you more. This acetone alternative is not listed on California Proposition 65, a law passed in 1986 to keep substances that cause cancer and birth defects out of drinking water. Nevertheless, you want to use Bio-Solv in a well-ventilated area because of an unpleasant odor. It is not, however, a hazardous air pollutant. Bio-Solv is not petroleum based.
>
> * Replacetone
>
> > Replacetone is another acetone alternative. It is nonflammable and nonvolatile. It can be used as an acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, an industrial solvent) replacement that is biodegradable. Both Replacetone and Bio-Solv are referred to as green acetone.
>
> * Methyl Acetate
>
> > Methyl acetate is offered as an acetone replacement. Manufactured by the Eastman Chemical Company, it is utilized in industrial applications. It is biodegradable, volatile organic compound exempt and non-HAP (hazardous air pollutant)
### Important note
However, *some of these items may also be banned in your country*, so check first. As you do not say which country that you are from, it is not possible to qualify this statement.
It is worth remembering that some of these substances are *not* as safe as acetone, and *the fumes may be more toxic*, so they should always be used in *well ventilated spaces*.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I have used DCM (dichloromethane, or ethylene dichloride) to dissolve ABS (or cold-weld/glue parts together).
From ABS wikipedia page:
> **ABS polymers** are resistant to aqueous acids, alkalis, concentrated hydrochloric and phosphoric acids, alcohols and animal, vegetable and mineral oils, but they are swollen by glacial acetic acid, carbon tetrachloride and aromatic hydrocarbons and **are attacked by concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. They are soluble in esters, ketones, ethylene dichloride and acetone**.
> 1 votes
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Tags: filament, prusa-i3, abs, quality, acetone
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thread-4116 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4116 | Does anyone know how Slic3r determines its infill adjacent strand spacing, instead of using fill density? | 2017-05-20T11:55:22.813 | # Question
Title: Does anyone know how Slic3r determines its infill adjacent strand spacing, instead of using fill density?
I'm doing research on changing the fill density into the air gap width, adjacent strand spacing, or whatever, instead of using the fill density, as it will give me more precise controls.
## Question 1:
All I can work out is from Slic3r's the source code in `~/Slic3r/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.cpp`,
Link to Flow.cpp source code
```
/* This method returns the centerline spacing between an extrusion using this
flow and another one using another flow.
this->spacing(other) shall return the same value as other.spacing(*this) */
float Flow::spacing(const Flow &other) const {
assert(this->height == other.height);
assert(this->bridge == other.bridge);
if (this->bridge) {
return this->width/2 + other.width/2 + BRIDGE_EXTRA_SPACING; //Line A
}
return this->spacing()/2 + other.spacing()/2; //Line B
}
```
If I am right, will changing `Line A` or `Line B`, be the right way to change its infill adjacent strand spacing?
## Question 2:
And since we're on this topic, what does the `bridge` variable represent?
# Answer
This answer should have been a comment, except I have included the relevant code.
To answer question 2, at a guess, `bridge` is simply a boolean (`bool`) that specifies whether there is a bridge or not.
From Flow.hpp line 32
```
/// Represents material flow; provides methods to predict material spacing.
class Flow
{
public:
float width, height, nozzle_diameter;
bool bridge;
Flow(float _w, float _h, float _nd, bool _bridge = false)
: width(_w), height(_h), nozzle_diameter(_nd), bridge(_bridge) {};
```
Additionally lines 68-73, may also be of interest:
```
private:
static float _bridge_width(float nozzle_diameter, float bridge_flow_ratio);
/// Calculate a relatively sane extrusion width, based on height and nozzle diameter.
/// Algorithm used does not play nice with layer heights < 0.1mm.
static float _auto_width(FlowRole role, float nozzle_diameter, float height);
static float _width_from_spacing(float spacing, float nozzle_diameter, float height, bool bridge);
```
However, your best bet, to get an accurate answer to *both* of your questions, is to contact Alessandro Ranellucci - alexrj, and ask him - as he is is the designer of the Slic3r code. When you get a reply, maybe you would like to post the answer here... it may be useful for someone else.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slic3r, infill
--- |
thread-4127 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4127 | Best practise of re-modeling a building | 2017-05-23T09:11:51.743 | # Question
Title: Best practise of re-modeling a building
The organization I am working for plans to pull down and rebuild our office building. As some people are a bit sentimental about the old building, we think about making a 3D model of the old building.
The old house was built in the 60s or 70s, when everything was done by hand. So we have some really detailed hand-drawn plans of the building. We also have a nice and detailed (physical) 3D model of the house. However, what we don't have yet is any material that can be processed in modern 3D modeling software.
So this is what my question is about: **What is the best (easiest, with reasonable degree of details) way to make a 3D model of the old building?**
At the moment I think of two different paths:
1. Transferring the hand drawn plans to a 3D modeling software. I think, Sketchup might be suitable, but I am open for suggestions. It should be something easy to start with as I would like to motivate some colleagues to join the project.
2. Using some kind of photogrammetry software to transfer the (hand crafted) 3D model of the building to an "electronic" 3D model. I have no experience with this method, however if it works it might be much easier to do.
Can you help me to decide which path to choose and give me some tips on how to do it exactly?
# Answer
> 2 votes
That are certainly trade-offs between the two options.
I think main trade-off between the two options you described would be visual details vs. configurability.
With a scanned design you have the ability to capture all the visual details that are in your hand crafted model. Those same details might require more effort than you are willing to put into a CAD design (like window and door detail and other architectural accents).
The big disadvantage of a scanned model it that it would not be parametric so you can't fiddle with design details - like adjusting the width or spacing of the windows, the position of a door or external approach (stairs, etc). Also you could play with the external skins/finishes and play with how wood looked as compared to concrete of brick.
Another advantage of a CAD model would be that you would not be able to break out components and print them separately because of print volume issues or to be able to print in different colors.
My personal preference would be to create a 3D Model using a CAD package. The limitation on this would be that it might not have the same level of detail; but it would be much more flexible. You could probably create the base design pretty easily either from the architectural drawings or by deconstructing the hand crafted model. The model was probably built from pieces much the same way a 3D CAD model is created.
Here is a good example of how to do that. In the example, they create a pretty detailed house design in Sketchup in 35 min by starting with scans of the architectural drawings.
There are quite a few other similar videos so you should look for the one that fits you best.
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-4131 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4131 | Monoprice Maker Ultimate Extrudes Too Much Filament At Start | 2017-05-24T04:29:47.617 | # Question
Title: Monoprice Maker Ultimate Extrudes Too Much Filament At Start
Today I received my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer. It is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6 for reference. I am using the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator 6 in Simplify3D.
Here is the Start G-Code that Simplify3D has setup for me via the Configuration Assistant:
```
G28 ; home all axes
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly
G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again
G1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract
G1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament
G1 X180 F9000 ; wipe
G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe
G1 E0 ; feed filament back
```
The problem is that right before a print, the extruder squeezes out a bunch of filament making a nice little spiral tower. It is a waste of filament. I suspect it is all the purging in the Start Code that is doing it, but I don't know what I should change because I don't know what is necessary, so I am coming here to ask the question before I start experimenting. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the solution?
Update: I tried printing one of the models that came on the SD card with the printer (I think it was created with Cura) and the Start G-code is different.
```
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F4800 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F4800
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
```
It also uses absolute positioning. It got going without purging a bunch of unnecessary filament on that print. Now I am not sure how to combine these two to get the good working starting G-code. Any ideas?
# Answer
Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card.
```
G28 ; home all axes
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly<---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length
G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly <----------Remove this line
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again
G1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract
G1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament
G1 X180 F9000 ; wipe
G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe
G1 E0 ; feed filament back
```
The rest of it is just moves to try to clean the nozzle.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: g-code, extrusion, simplify3d, wanhao, monoprice-maker-ultimate
--- |
thread-4135 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4135 | How do I get my Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Maker Ultimate to lower bed at end of print? | 2017-05-24T16:37:21.587 | # Question
Title: How do I get my Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Maker Ultimate to lower bed at end of print?
What would be the end g-code so that I can get my Monoprice Ultimate (Wanhao D6) to lower the bed to midway on the frame or something easier to remove the print? The default end position is very high up at the top.
# Answer
> 1 votes
In your ending script add the line below and change Z200.0 to your max Z height. This will rapid to the given value using absolute coordinates. I added G90 in case G91 was previously set so it did not do a relative move. I'm not positive if G91 is modal in printer firmwares or not but the G90 should not hurt anything.
```
G90 G0 Z200.0
```
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-4133 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4133 | Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top | 2017-05-24T13:52:19.213 | # Question
Title: Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top
I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other.
Cura however adds filament to cover the gaps.
The bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9.99. The top right bunny is sliced with Cura 2.5. Take a closer look at the forehead and the back of the bottom left bunny.
I have "extra perimeters if needed" turned on. But turning it off makes no difference. What am I missing?
So far only adding infill and increase the solid top layer count helps to get a closed surface. But then everything gets stiffer. The bunnies are printed with nylon so they are a bit squishy.
The printer settings in both Cura and Slic3r are:
* 0.4 mm nozzel;
* 0.2 mm layer height;
* No infill;
* 2 perimeter walls, and;
* 3 solid top/bottom layers.
# Answer
This seems to be a recurring problem with Slic3r.
Slic3r appears to have problems with perimeters that are not attached to infill. I suspect that it is getting confused on what is the inside and what is the outside. I know that seems a bit silly; but as you slice an object with indentations (like the bunny's face) then the perimeter can cease to be a simple closed shape and it gets confused. If you use a viewer to step through the gcode layers around the place it starts having problems you may be able to see what is going wrong.
Here are a couple of examples of why I say this is a recurring problem with slic3r. I also recall seeing a video that showed the problem but I can't remember where. That was one of the reasons I don't use slic3r.
Here are three options that may work
1. Use a different slicer for this specific condition. Every product is going to have vulnerabilities - this may be one of slic3r's.
2. Increase the perimeter and top and bottom layer thicknesses. Making them thick enough it will bridge the problem areas. Use a gcode viewer to inspect that area to see if it fixed the problem. That way you don't waste material on another fail. It sounds like you may have already tried this but you didn't like that it made the model stiffer.
3. Repair the STL file using an application like Meshmixer. Maybe you will have to get the file close then tweak it where it doesn't. Here is good article from PinShape repairing and STL file.
Good luck, hope this helps.
> 3 votes
# Answer
What infill are you using? How flexible do you need the object to be?
I suggest two or three top and bottom layers, and a second or third solid perimeter as well.
The slicer has to determine if a particular path is part of an external perimeter or a top layer, so adding one to each should give a better result.
Thinner layers and a fan cooling the deposited material both help with overhangs like this.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: slic3r, slicing, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4122 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4122 | Printer goes beyond the bed when auto leveling | 2017-05-21T20:55:25.023 | # Question
Title: Printer goes beyond the bed when auto leveling
I am trying to add auto bed leveling to my Prusa i3. When I run `G28` my printer hits the X and Y end stops properly, then it assumes X=25, Y=99 position on the bed and performs Z homing, after which it stays there. The problem is when I run `G29` then it starts following the grid points from this position and tries to go out of bed.
My settings for the grid are:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
```
And travel limits are set to this:
```
#define X_MAX_POS 150
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 150
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 220
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
I guess this might be relevant too:
```
#ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)
#endif
```
# Answer
I don't know how your firmware load handles `G29` ,but here's a guess, based on information at the reprap wiki . Try using `FBLR` to force the travel limits.
> ### Parameters
>
> P Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P points). Not supported by non-linear delta printer bed leveling. Example: G29 P4 S Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in units/min)
> D Dry-Run mode. Just evaluate the bed Topology - Don't apply or clean the rotation Matrix. Useful to check the topology after a first run of G29.
> V Set the verbose level (0-4). Example: G29 V3
> T Generate a Bed Topology Report. Example: G29 P5 T for a detailed report. This is useful for manual bed leveling and finding flaws in the bed (to assist with part placement). Not supported by non-linear delta printer bed leveling.
> F Set the Front limit of the probing grid
> B Set the Back limit of the probing grid.
> L Set the Left limit of the probing grid
> R Set the Right limit of the probing grid
> 1 votes
---
Tags: printer-building
--- |
thread-889 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/889 | Is there a method or S/W available to stitch together a DLP projector's output into a "moving picture" to SLA print in a larger area than its output? | 2016-03-27T00:17:57.743 | # Question
Title: Is there a method or S/W available to stitch together a DLP projector's output into a "moving picture" to SLA print in a larger area than its output?
I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures:
**Sciclone 3D Printer Conversion** Repurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer featuring 3 axis, 20 micron bi-directional repeatability on a 14 cubic foot build platform. https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion
I have an opportunity to repurpose a high-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume. Although FDM is certainly a realistic "no-brainer" capability for this setup, I believe this level of accuracy, speed and volume - not to mention the original cost being well over $100K - justifies a finer level of output and I believe Stereolithography (SLA) is what I'd like to concentrate on. With such a large printing surface/volume (37"X x 24"Y x 28"Z), I don't know how I would implement a DLP projector to cover such a large surface and still maintain the level of accuracy and resolution.
This system is already equipped with the highest quality stepper motors and a "staccato" high-speed driver-controller, an on-board pneumatic & electrical 6-channel controller that could be used for selecting colors, resin injection/flow, resin tank elevation, curing LEDs, temperature/ventilation fans, laser scanning, router speed, etc. The X & Y movement guide bars are located in the upper deck, moving the Z axis component assembly. That assembly requires simplification to enable it to be downsized to allow for the printer output to reach closer to the perimeter of the output area, but the weight & bulk of the assembly is greater than any DLP projector that would take its place so this system can reliably perform with a heavier projector if necessary.
Basically, I think I'm looking for a software-defined method of coordinating the X & Y movement of the projector's output to the printing surface (presumable a tray of photo-sensitive SLA resin). Since the projector's proximity to the printing surface must remain relatively close, the output will be constrained to an area significantly smaller than this platform's entire printable surface, the projector's output will have to "play a movie" of the model and instead of projecting still images, I believe it would require an animated output that exposes the resin to build models. Sort of like a silk screen process but with UV light.
I'm slightly familiar with the concept of manipulating laser beams using micro mirror aiming devices to draw on SLA resin beds - and this is a possible solution if I knew where to find such a component and how to control it, but that kind of printing would be far too slow for making large-scale models because it would essentially almost as slow as a pen plotter.
Is anyone aware of an existing method of integrating the "moving picture" method I'm thinking of, or have I envisioned something that hasn't been invented yet?
Cheers!
# Answer
> 2 votes
Cool Idea.
I know using a projector sounds like solution; but, I in practice, think it is going to be difficult.
My concern with trying to use a projector would be two-fold.
1. It would have to project on a large flat surface. Since basic optics wants to focus on a sphere, when projecting on a flat surface you have to adjust for a focus distance that varies with angle and also deal with keysoning. I know this is a common problem fro projectors; but, there is no perfect solution so either. The focus issue may be solvable with custom optics; but, that is not something that is easy to DIY. The keystoning could be corrected for with optics and/or in software; but even then you are going to have inconsistent resolution. Not only that; but, the problem gets worse the wider and closer you are, which is EXACLY what you want to do.
2. I would be concerned that the frequency range that the SLA resin cures at will be outside the normal range of projector so you would require A LOT more power/time to get it to cure.
On the other hand, lasers light projectors are a well established technology. They moved into the entertainment space quite a few years ago; so, I suspect you could get one that covers the space you are interested in for a reasonable price.
1. Since laser beams are very narrow, focus should not be an issue. Keysoning can be easily accounted for in the sweep algorithm.
2. You could choose the frequency of the laser to that it in the most efficient curing frequency for the resin you want to use.
---
Tags: software, applications, sla
--- |
thread-4150 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4150 | Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct | 2017-05-28T14:05:55.497 | # Question
Title: Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct
I had to pause an ongoing print (because of complicated reasons) and that caused the printer to reboot (I don't know why).
When it rebooted, the Z extents were screwed up. I know this because when I gave the print again, the nozzle hit the print bed and started grinding.
The printer has an auto bed levelling function that runs before every print.
It takes three points on the bed where the sensor needle comes down to contact in a vertical to-and-fro motion. When that runs now, the head starts its vertical to-and-fro motion from a point considerably higher than where it used to start from earlier. The sensor needle does come down to touch the bed but it takes a longer time per point since the distance travelled is more now. (Hope this is clear)
To print again, I compensated for the Z-direction by giving a global offset (2.65 mm) while generating G-code. But I realised later that X and Y dimensions were incorrect (larger by 4.6% to be precise). I tested this by printing cubes of 10, 20, 30 and 100 mm. The Z dimensions are perfect though.
Also, there have been weird "lags" while printing larger objects. The print head stutters and this is causing sharp vertexes in between curves and some little blotching of material.
The printer runs on Repetier 0.92.6 and I've been reading about it but its honestly intimidating to me. Please let me know how to figure out what to change and by how much.
**Edit**: I agree this is quite similar to scaling issues thread here: Scaling/size issues in delta printers
I just want to know what could've caused this problem, whether there are any other possible solutions, and how to get started with Repetier framework.
**Edit2**: Attached image is the bottom surface of the 100 mm cube. You might notice slight charring on the bottom right corner. The masking sheet I pasted on the print bed was charred underneath. Also, it's evident that the bottom surface is not as compact at the corners as it is in the center.
What could be the possible reasons for that?
# Answer
As detailed at minow.blogspot.com (which I found very helpful for the most part - it was the first link in the answer to my related question) you need to **check/adjust the zero in front of each tower**, **check the zero in the center**, tweak the radius, and repeat (checking the zeros at the edge of the bed in front of each tower again) until it's correct.
**After** that you **adjust the rod length** to correct XY size (and recheck all 4 zeros, thus the radius - it makes for a less than exciting day, but is worth it in the long run.)
You either need to turn off EEPROM until you have the right settings, or save the setting to EEPROM each time - depends how worried you are about using up EEPROM write cycles, I guess.
You should also turn off auto-bed-levelling while getting the basic calibration correct, per the same blog instructions.
My fun with figuring out what my EEPROM was doing behind my back is here: Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA\_RADIUS
> 1 votes
---
Tags: delta, repetier
--- |
thread-4149 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4149 | E3D V6 underextruding always? | 2017-05-28T12:15:14.220 | # Question
Title: E3D V6 underextruding always?
I have an E3D v6 1.75mm bowden.
When I print, there is a gap between infill lines, and also when printing rectilinear/hexagonal infill lines seem to be pretty slim.
My settings:
* Slicer: Slic3r
* Nozzle size: 0.4mm
* Print speed: 30mm/s
* First layer print speed: 15mm/s
* Travel speed: 90mm/s
* Retraction length: 0.8mm
* Retraction speed: 40mm/s
* Extrude ratio: 1 (tried also with 0.48mm extrusion width, I remember it's the default S3D setting, so I gave it a try)
* Print temperature: 220 °C
* Material: PLA
Firmware settings:
* Firmware: Marlin 1.1.0-1
* Motion system: CoreXY
* Acceleration: 1000
* VMax X: 300
* VMax Y: 300
* VMax Z: 5
* VMax E: 80
* Xsteps/mm: 80.05
* Ysteps/mm: 80.05
* Zsteps/mm: 400
* Esteps/mm: 96.5
Disclaimer: I set Esteps/mm to 96.5 because I calibrated the printer as described here, so I'm 100% sure it's an accurate setting. Same for X,Y,Z steps. I printed a cube and calculated the real steps per millimeter, and it's accurate too. The extruder motor works, it's not the issue.
Here you can find some pictures that show what I'm trying to describe:
While printing I tried to release the extruder motor clamp and push the filament by hand: it extruded 1mm thick lines, so the extruder is not clogged and is perfectly capable of extruding the required amount of PLA.
Is it possible that the `VMax E` parameter is preventing the extruder motor to extrude properly? I mean, could it be that it's trying to extrude at a higher speed than the maximum allowed? Seems weird to me, because comments in Marlin's `Configuration.h` file say `Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)` for that parameter, so if the limit is set to 80mm/s it should extrude just fine. If this is the issue, how should I solve it?
# Answer
Major factors affecting extrusion:
1. Nozzle diameter
2. Extrusion ratio
3. Extrusion stepper calibration
4. Filament actual diameter
5. Extrusion width setting
6. Nozzle temperature
According to the photos, temperature is acceptable (may be a bit high, but it is not a problem in this case). Extrusion ratio is 1 and should not be changed in normal operation. Extrusion width is often set to auto but sometimes calibrating it gives better results in slic3r. If stepper is calibrated properly, then I would check for nozzle and filament diameters. For nozzle it should be enough to verify that 0.4 bit fits in and 0.5 doesn't. Filament can be measured by digital caliper. Difference between 1.75 and 1.73mm may have significant difference resulting in under-extrusion.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: marlin, extruder, extrusion, e3d-v6
--- |
thread-4153 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4153 | Help understanding bridge settings | 2017-05-29T17:07:07.633 | # Question
Title: Help understanding bridge settings
I can't understand how to best tune my slicer settings in order to get better bridges...
I've downloaded a simple test off thingiverse and printed at different speeds.
Here are the results, bridging tests (youtube link).
On the left we can see that going at a slow (10 mm/s) speed results in a very poor first layer.
On the right at Slic3r Auto setting which I believe is 60 mm/s is better but there are still a few strings hanging...
The middle one is printed at 30 mm/s and looks the best.
On the one hand I was expecting faster = better because the plastic wouldn't have time to fall, but I once saw a video somewhere off a printer bridging at 10 mm/s and it came out flawless!
So I decided to do some testing of my own and now I'm more confused than before.
Why did the 30 mm/s turn out better than the others and how can I improve my bridging?
# Answer
The engineering approach is that if 30mm/s is working best on your equipment (at least on that day), you should use it; at least until it doesn't work so well for you. You might also try more different speeds (closer to 30 than to 10 or the assumed 60) in case one works even better than 30mm/s - though you might also want to question the assumed 60 (or test a set 60) since assumptions can bite you.
There's not going to be a fixed speed that's always best independent of the printer - **everything** is dependent on the printer, and its environment - if the temperature of the room varies a lot, it could change the "best setting" on days of different room temperatures. Perhaps the "10mm/s" that you saw working well was using a more effective cooling fan while bridging, or had other differences from your particular unit - or had different settings (other than speed - nozzle temperature, for instance) which impacted the result.
*(note that I have limited tolerance for videos, and have not actually looked at yours, so if you're going to come back with "but I don't have a cooling fan", please post a picture of the printer or results that does not involve needing to sit through a video. And perhaps add a cooling fan...)*
As for "understanding how to best tune your slicer settings" - far more testing, and keep track of the results. So, do tests (without altering other parameters) at 20, 25, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 mm/s.
Depending on the results of those tests, say you find the best results at 35-40mm/s, perhaps you try 47 and compare that. Perhaps there's no real difference between the 3, so it's in that range, but not picky.
Then alter one other thing (nozzle temperature comes to mind first, but perhaps it's "fan speed for bridging" or some other, single, item) and do more testing - likely the best speed will change, so you'll need to re-run a range of speeds at the new setting. And keep track of which results (test prints) go with which settings, so you can go back to the ones that work best. Then alter that parameter more, or alter another parameter.
For the most part, there comes a point where it's good enough, or at least where you're sick of testing for a while and results are good enough until you want to test / tune some more.
If you change many things at once, it's hard to isolate cause and effect. If you test many settings but lose track of which settings were used for what result, it can be hard to progess towards better results consistently. When you find a range that seems to make no difference (and it's as good as it gets), be happy that the parameter is not too sensitive, and tend towards the middle of it.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: speed
--- |
thread-4161 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4161 | Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed) | 2017-05-30T10:43:50.183 | # Question
Title: Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)
I'm in the process of tweaking the firmware (Repetier 0.92.6) because of some problems mentioned here: Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct
But I found out that the printer manufacturer has locked the firmware (probably) and I cannot edit it. So I have to burn a new one (I guess? Correct me if I'm wrong)
Printer name: Dimension Dual Delta
Manufacturer: J Group Robotics
Website: http://www.jgrouprobotics.com/dimension-dual-delta
I have the slicer (Simplify3D) configured with the FFF profile as my printer was working completely fine up until a few weeks ago. I just want to know that if I change the firmware, would I have to change/update the profile as well? If yes, how do I do that?
---
Here is a screenshot of Repetier host. The "JGR" continues indefinitely:
Here is the actual log text
```
22:56:00.216 : OpenGL version:4.2.0
22:56:00.218 : OpenGL renderer:GeForce GT 540M/PCIe/SSE2
22:56:00.218 : Using fast VBOs for rendering is possible
22:56:06.634 : Printer reset detected - initalizing
22:56:06.661 : start
22:56:06.662 : Info:External Reset
22:56:06.662 : Info:Autoleveling enabled
22:56:06.662 : Transformation matrix: 0.999994 0.000010 0.003587 0.000000 0.999996 -0.002727 -0.003587 0.002727 0.999990
22:56:06.865 : N1 M110*34
22:56:06.865 : N2 M115*36
22:56:06.865 : N3 M105*36
22:56:06.865 : N4 M114*35
22:56:06.865 : N5 M111 S6*98
22:56:06.869 : N6 T0*60
22:56:06.870 : N7 M20*22
22:56:06.871 : N8 M80*19
22:56:06.872 : N9 M105*46
22:56:08.706 : Free RAM:1002
22:56:08.706 : Autoretract:0
22:56:08.706 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000
22:56:08.713 : N10 M220 S100*80
22:56:08.713 : N11 M221 S100*80
22:56:08.714 : N12 M111 S6*84
22:56:08.714 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.92.6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Delta EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:3
22:56:08.714 : Printed filament:32.75m Printing time:0 days 6 hours 0 min
22:56:08.714 : PrinterMode:FFF
22:56:08.714 : N13 T0*8
22:56:08.745 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000
22:56:08.745 : Begin file list
22:56:08.746 : End file list
22:56:09.726 : JGR
22:56:09.960 : N14 M105*18
22:56:10.972 : JGR
22:56:11.979 : JGR
22:56:12.969 : JGR
22:56:13.016 : N15 M105*19
22:56:14.028 : JGR
22:56:15.035 : JGR
22:56:16.025 : JGR
22:56:16.072 : N16 M105*16
22:56:17.085 : JGR
22:56:18.091 : JGR
22:56:19.081 : JGR
22:56:19.134 : N17 M105*17
22:56:20.157 : JGR
22:56:21.163 : JGR
22:56:22.154 : JGR
22:56:22.189 : N18 M105*30
22:56:23.202 : JGR
22:56:24.208 : JGR
22:56:25.199 : JGR
22:56:25.245 : N19 M105*31
22:56:26.253 : JGR
22:56:27.261 : JGR
22:56:28.267 : JGR
22:56:28.307 : N20 M105*21
22:56:29.319 : JGR
22:56:30.326 : JGR
22:56:31.316 : JGR
22:56:31.363 : N21 M105*20
22:56:32.376 : JGR
22:56:33.382 : JGR
22:56:34.372 : JGR
```
---
**Edit**: Since it is advisable to get a new controller board and keep the current one as it is, I'm attaching a picture of what my printer is controlled by.
The black box on the green board reads **HRD 12008**. Google says its a DC-DC SMPS module but mine has some extra connectors than what I could find online.
The black board is a **MKS Base v1.3**
The other box is a solid state relay.
This is more intimidating than I thought it would be. How do I proceed now? If I get a brand new controller board to play with, which should it be? Also, I can't seem to locate any RAMPS shield.
# Answer
The firmware is not really locked by the OEM<sup>1</sup>, you just need to upload (or, as you say *burn*) a new version. This is not unusual<sup>2</sup>.
Repetier is just like any other firmware that uses Arduino boards. While it may seem intimidating at first, it really is quite easy to regularly upload new firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560 board<sup>3</sup>. If you are not familiar with Arduino programming at all, then there are a good number of *Repetier oriented* guides out there, for example, from Repetier's own web site, Repetier-Firmware Documentation.
If are you familiar with Arduino programming, then it really is the same as uploading the `Blink` sketches, but the base code is just bigger, that is all.
There is too much to detail in a simple answer here and, as I stated above, there are a lot of online guides. However, *en bref*:
1. Download and install the Arduino IDE to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC;
2. Download the *latest* Repetier firmware to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC<sup>4</sup>;
3. Connect the Arduino Mega 2560 to your PC using a USB cable;
4. Change the settings, i.e. Boards and Port settings, in the Arduino IDE, so that your PC can "see" the Arduino Mega 2560;
5. Open the Reptier firmware, that you have just downloaded, in the Arduino IDE;
6. Configure the Repetier firmware source code, i.e. make some edits in the `Configuration.h` file<sup>5</sup>, with the tweaks that you require (which you mention in your question)<sup>6</sup>;
7. Compile the firmware using the Arduino IDE. and (finally);
8. Upload the firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560.
That is it. Once you have done it a few times, it will become second nature.
Watch a few online youtube videos, as well, before you start, so that you have a better idea of what to do. For example:
With respect to the Slicer's profile settings... I am not sure about that at all.
The reason that you have no RAMPS board is that, on your MKS board, the RAMPS and the Arduino are merged into one. Any new controller would work, as they all run the same firmware. There are many to choose from. As you are just experimenting (and reverse engineering) at this stage, I personally would buy a cheap Chinese Arduino Mega 2560 (€6) and RAMPS (€4) board on eBay, for a total of only €10 (if you buy them separately - don't get a combination "deal" as they are generally more expensive - although compare the prices first, you may find a bargain), to test your settings. Once you are happy with those settings, *then* you can spend more money on a better board, should you feel that you need it.
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> If you have to get around the licensing, then it sounds like you could/should recompile the firmware, or use some other firmware, i.e. Marlin. However, wait to see what other people suggest.
<sup>2</sup> There really isn't much risk in uploading new firmware. The only risk, which I guess Mark is referring to, is that you may/will not have the correct firmware settings for your make of printer, and therefore the printer may not work correctly, until you get the firmware settings correct. So, in that respect, it is a good idea to buy a secondary Arduino Mega and RAMPS1.4 board to play with, for just $10 (Chinese clones work just fine). But, as you say that your board already has bad settings, and you do not wish to pay for more licensing, then you haven't much to lose by uploading new firmware to it, except the warranty. So, if I were in your position, and I did not want to pay the licensing, I would set aside the supplied controller (for possible future use/reference), and use a Arduino Mega 2560/RAMPS 1.4 combination to control the printer. That said, if your printer is still under warranty, can't you ask the manufacturer to supply you a new controller with the correct settings?
<sup>3</sup> There is no way of extracting the code from an Arduino and then modifying it. You need the *original source code files*. See Is there any way to download a sketch from an Arduino? OK, you can obtain the machine code, but unless you are an expert, or guru, modifying it is impossible.
<sup>4</sup> The installation order, of the Arduino IDE and Repetier, will not matter. You probably need to rebuild the firmware, I would guess, but I am not 100% sure. It might be a good idea to contact the vendor to see what they recommend, before overwriting their code (assuming that the control board came pre-programmed)
<sup>5</sup> I found this video #18: Calibration extremely useful, for configuring Marlin, and understanding the firmware settings in the `Configuration.h` file.
<sup>6</sup> You may find this link useful for your "tweaks": Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 0.92.9 version
> 2 votes
---
Tags: fdm, repetier
--- |
thread-4164 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4164 | Cura grey large grey area, almost nothing fits… | 2017-05-30T21:21:01.550 | # Question
Title: Cura grey large grey area, almost nothing fits…
I can't seem to understand the margins that Cura uses or how to fix them for my machine. Look at this:
I can't seem to tweak the stuff under machine settings to anything that does this better:
Maybe a bit of dup of Cura not allowing full print area to used, but I think my case is a lot worse and can't be explained by skirts.
# Answer
I had mistakenly left the setting "one at a time" in print sequence. This meaning the printhead needs a lot of room since it will go back and forth in z.
Cura allocates this extra space even if there's only one object.
> 4 votes
# Answer
That looks like you've got the "brim" set to a very wide value. I know you said it's not explained by skirts --which, as Greenonline pointed out, is not the same as a brim--, but you didn't post that setting. At the same time, make sure you don't have a 'raft' set up.
One other possibility is that your source file actually contains a very large first layer. Try looking at the STL file in Meshlab or Meshmixer to see what's actually there.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4158 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4158 | Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command) | 2017-05-30T07:07:17.383 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command)
I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3.
When I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z.
Any suggestions?
# Answer
It could be a hardware fault.
First check, and compare, the control board connections to the motors of the three axes. You don't state it in your question but, presumably, the X and Y axes move correctly? If so, then compare the connections for the Z-axis motors with the connections for the motors of the axes that work as expected.
If they are correct then the problem is likely to be with the firmware.
Have you...
* homed the Z-axis yet?
* installed the endstops?
From X Y Z axis only move one direction?:
> Using Marlin? Before you do a `G28` homing the axes will only move towards the endstops. But also check your endstops with `M119` to make sure they are triggered at the right time. On older Marlin, you may need to set `DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS` (on a machine that has no max endstops). Newer Marlin uses `USE_XMIN_PLUG`, etc., to specifically set which endstops are connected. If the switches show the opposite state (off when triggered) then set the `[XYZ]_(MIN|MAX)_ENDSTOP_INVERTING` flags, as needed.
Likewise, from Building a Prusa I3 3D Printer:
> You will probably also find the motor will turn only in one direction. This is normal for now as we don't have end-stops installed and haven't homed the axis - so the software doesn't know how far it can go in one direction or the other.
---
As Mark states in his comment, the P802M uses a Melzi board. From Github: Repetier-Firmware/boards/Zonestar P802M/:
> There are some printers sold under different names like 'Zonestar P802M', 'Prusa i3 P802M DIY kit', 'Anet A8-B', etc, which have LCD 20x4 with 5 keys controller connected to Melzi V2.0 board via 10 wires cable. Keys are connected to a single analog input using resistive divider.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Thank you guys, it took me a while but it was a faulty cable, One stepper motor worked but the other did not. But, apparently, both have to work for even one to turn.
The cable had one wire isolation still in place, so there was no connection from the board to the stepper.
I also had another cable with the wires connected in the wrong order, as well.
Bottom line - it is working. And printing well.
Now it seems like I have problem with the z-sensor (stopped working after a few hours of printing). But I'll figure it out tomorrow.
Thank you for your help.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, z-axis, tronxy-p802
--- |
thread-4173 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4173 | Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel | 2017-05-31T18:49:09.567 | # Question
Title: Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel
### TL;DR
I need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the *Sintron Kossel*.
---
Has anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?
A complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and length) and quantity of the bolts (and nuts) which:
* fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches to the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders, and;
* fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches and the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders to the extruded 2020 aluminium.
I have:
* Searched the web, but to no avail;
* Read the product page, which states only "screws and nuts provided";
* Contacted Sintron, but not had an answer;
* Obtained the Sintron build manual but there is no list contained therein, nor contains details about the fasteners relating to the endstops, and;
* Obtained the Blomker manual, from which the Sintron manual is copied, but that also has no list (as well as not being relevant with respect to the endstops).
**Note that I am only interested in the fasteners *specifically for the Sintron Kossel* and not the Kossel in general.** The Sintron uses the PCB mounted mechanical switches (with four holes), and not the simple barebones mechanical switches (with two holes), and uses 2020 aluminium<sup>1</sup>, not 1515 OpenBeam:
Why? Because I purchased only the 3D printed parts from Sintron, and I am sourcing the rest of the parts cheaply, either locally or from Chinese suppliers on eBay.
---
<sup>1</sup> In my particular case, there is an additional complication. The profile of the non-standard/non-"European" 2020 extrusion that I am using, does *not* take T-Nuts, only M5 hexagonal nuts (it is unbelievably difficult to find the standard 2020 extrusion in Bangkok). Combine that with the fact that the Sintron kit uses only M3 nuts and *not* M5 (I only discovered this *after* purchasing the printed parts kit (see the email from Sintron, in my answer below) - not through lack of research, but because there *is* no available list of fasteners), then I have the problem of finding a nut to use (see Fat hexagonal M3 nuts, with outer diameter greater than 6 mm).
Here is a photo
# Answer
After examining the guide (Kossel mini instrution by sintron technology\_v2) and the printed parts kit, I came up with an 99.9% complete parts list. The lists relating to the effector and autoprobe mount maybe slightly incorrect:
```
##Parts List
###Listed by Printer part/section:
####Fasteners
#####BOTTOM VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
10 x M3 x 8 mm
10 x M3 nut (T-nut)
#####TOP VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
5 x M3 x 8 mm
5 x M3 nut (T-nut)
1 x M3 x 35 mm
1 x M3 nut
1 x M3 washer
#####IDLERS (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
1x M3 x 25 mm
4x M3 Washers
1 x M3 Nut
2x F623ZZ
#####MOTORS (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
2 x grub
4 x M3 x 8 mm
1 x 16T/20T GT2 pulley
#####EFFECTOR
6 x M3 nyloc nuts
6 x M3 x 25 mm
4 (5?) x M3 x 16 mm <<==, or
2 (3?) x M3 x 16 mm <<==
2 x M3 x 20 mm <<== For the auto probe, if mounting the autoprobe directly on to a collar, above the hotend, and not on to the flange on the Sintron PLA collar
4 (5?) x M3 nuts <<==
2 x M3 x 8 mm <<== fan mounted to Sintron PLA collar
2 x M3 nuts <<==
1 x PC4-M6
Note: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the hotend. It is unclear what these are. See link.
#####VERTICAL CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
2 x M3 x 20 mm
#####ROLLER CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
2 x M3 x 10 mm
1 x M3 x 25 mm
3 x M3 nuts
3 x M6 x 25 mm
3 x M6 nut
2 x M6 washer (optional)
#####ENDSTOPS (QUANTITY = 3)
For each:
1 x M3 x 8 mm <<==
1 x M3 nut (T-nut)
3 x M3 x 8 mm <<==
3 x M3 nut
#####SPOOL
6 x 625-2RS Bearing (or 625zz)
5 x M5 x 20 mm
1 x M5 x 25 mm
6 x M5 nut
6 x M5 washer
(or 7 x M5 washer – there is a discrepancy between the kit (7) and the manual (6))
3 x M3 x 8 mm ?
3 x M3 nut (T-nut)
#####EXTRUDER
1 x M3 x 40 mm
1 x M3 x 8 mm
1 x M3 x ?? mm <<==
2 x M3 nut (T-nut)
1 x PC4-01
#####AUTOPROBE
Note: This is optional
2 x M2.5 x 12 mm
1 x M2.5 x 12 mm
2 x M3 x 8 mm <<== If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required, and 2 x M3 x 20 mm replace 2 x M3 x 16 mm on the effector)
2 x M3 nuts <<== If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required)
Safety Pin 2.5 mm
Spring 23.5mm
Terminal Block
1.5mm Allen key
Note: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the autoprobe, as well as the hotend. It is unclear what these are.
#####GLASS BED
3 x M3 x 8 mm ?
1 x M3 x 20 mm
4 x M3 nut (T-nut)
#####RAMPS
Note: This is optional, as mounting on the top will interfere with the spool
2 x M3 x 35 mm
2 x M3 nuts
2 x M3 nuts (T-nut)
###Total Parts:
####Fasteners
#####BOLTS
Size, Length, Quantity
M3, 25, (1×3)+(6)+(1×3) = 3+6+3 = 12
M3, 8, (10×3)+(5×3)+(4×3)+(4x3)+(3)+(1)+(2)+(3) = 30+15+12+12+3+1+2+3 = 78
M3, 16, 5
M3, 20, (2×3)+(1)+(2) = 6+1+2 = 9
M3, 10, (2×3) = 6
M3, 35, 3
M3, 40, 1
M6, 25, (3×3) = 9
M5, 20, 5
M5, 25, 1
M2.5, 12, 3
#####GRUB SCREWS
Size, Quantity
?, (2×3) = 6
#####NUTS
Size, Quantity
M5, 6
M6, (3×3) = 9
—
EITHER
M3, (10×3)+(5×3)+(1x3)+(1×3)+(5+2)+(3×3)+(1×3)+(3×3)+(3)+(2)+(2)+(4) = 30+15+3+7+9+3+9+3+2+2+4 = 90
OR
M3, (1×3) + (1×3) + (5+2) + (3×3) + (3×3) + (2) = 3+7+9+9+2 = 33
and
M3 T-slot nut, (10×3) + (5×3) + (1×3) + (3) + (2) + (4) = 30+15+3+3+2+4 = 57
—
#####NYLOC NUTS
Size, Quantity
M3, 6
#####WASHERS
Size, Quantity
M3, (1x3)+(4×3) = 15
M6, (2×3) = 6
M5, 6 (or 7)
####Bearings
Size, Quantity
F623zz, 6
625-2RS, 6
OR
625zz, 6
####Printed Parts
TBD
####Structural
3 x 2020 x 750/600 mm
9 x 2020 x 360/240 mm
####Electronics
1 x Arduino Mega 2560
1 x RAMPS 1.4
5 x Stepper drivers
3 x PCB mounted mechanical switch
3 x Stepper motors
1 x Extruder stepper
####Belts
3 x 16T/20T GT2 Pulley
GT2 belt (5 meters)
####Other Parts
Safety Pin 2.5 mm
Spring 23.5mm
Terminal Block
1.5mm Allen key
9 x Delrin wheels
9 x 696zz bearings
1 x PC4-M6
1 x PC4-01
###Uncertainties
The fasteners required for the following parts is, as yet, unclear
Effector/Hotend mount
Autoprobe mount
Additional Extruder holder screwpoint
###Assumptions
Hotbed frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)
Spool frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)
Endstops (four M3 x 8 mm are used, not just one)
```
See also Kossel - Sintron parts list.
---
I have a *partial* answer from the suppliers:
> Hi
>
> Good Day !
>
> thanks for your contact.
>
> we use M3 bolts + T-nuts .
>
> i suppose the problem is , you don't have T-nuts , right ?
>
> T-nuts is used for 2020 extrusion.
>
> with warm regards.
>
> james
I replied for a clarification of the length required:
> Many thanks for the reply.
>
> I have two types of 2020 extrusion, with differing profiles: one that takes T-Nuts, and; one that takes regular hexagonal M5 nuts.
>
> For the T-nut extrusion I have both M3 and M5 T-nuts.
>
> However, the second type of 2020 extrusion takes regular M5 nuts. Regular M3 nuts will not stay in place, unless I can find some M3 nuts with a larger outer diameter, greater than 7 mm.
>
> With respect to the M3 bolts, what are the lengths required? Are two lengths used? One length to secure the endstop switch and holder to the 2020 extrusion, and then another length to secure the remaining three holes? Looking at the diagram in your build guide, it seems as if only one bolt is used to secure the endstop switch and holder to the frame, is that correct? Are any other bolts used to secure the PCB mounted switch the the endstop holders.
>
> I thank you in advance.
>
> Best regards
I followed this up with a second email
> Hi again James,
>
> Following on from my previous reply.
>
> Firstly, I have found that flanged M3 nuts will work perfectly, in the extrusion that will not accept T-Nuts.
>
> Secondly, what I really am looking for is a list of the lengths (and dimensions) of the bolts used throughout the Sintron build. In particular the endstop bolts. Rather than having to iteratively deduce each bolt, a list of the bolts used would be very handy.
>
> I thank you again in advance for your kind consideration.
>
> Best regards,
I received a second reply from Sintron
> Hello Friend.
>
> for endstop . it's M3\*8mm .
>
> i am collecting the list of them for you soon.
>
> thanks.
>
> james
---
> 2 votes
# Answer
I found two lists for the Kossel mini (the documents you referenced are for a mini, so that is what I am assuming you got). One as a Google Doc and one as an order sheet
Both seem to list all the fasteners.
Here is a Sintron mini carriage assembly and it lists the hardware included
I found an ebay listing for the Sintron 2020 Rails. The recommended screws are M3x20mm and here is the infor on the required t-nuts.
Happy building.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For the M3 t-nuts, could you use this printed solution. You are just attaching a PCB; so, it you wouldn't need that much strength.
Another excuse to use your 3D printer. ;)
> 3 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, diy-3d-printer, kossel
--- |
thread-4182 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4182 | Slic3r not interpreting STL correctly | 2017-06-03T04:59:14.227 | # Question
Title: Slic3r not interpreting STL correctly
I'm very new to 3D printing, I purchased a Monoprice Maker Select Plus last week and I'm just getting started with printing my own models.
I can create fairly simple models in Sketchup without a problem, export in `.obj`, then using Slic3r, covert the STL into G-code. This method worked fairly well for some simple cubic bearing holders I was printing, however when I tried to slice a complex shape (a wheel), the slicer shows an incomplete version of the `.obj` file, missing faces and transparent from some angles.
Here is now what the wheel looked like on the slicer
There is obviously something I'm doing wrong in Sketchup, maybe I have to put it through some filters in MeshLab? Or I'm not constructing the model properly?
# Answer
Sketchup is notorious for creating non-manifold models for 3D printing. The first recommendation would be to consider using a different resource for your models. I'm not a big fan of TinkerCAD, but it is similar in operation to many features of Sketchup. I've used it on a couple occasions where it was the fastest simplest way to create a particular model.
There are other programs that are more complex in the learning curve. Meshmixer is good for more organic shapes, although it will perform reasonably well for engineering-type models such as yours.
Blender is a great piece of free software with an extremely steep learning curve, but again, better suited to organics.
I'm quite a fan of OpenSCAD which is script/text based and quite well suited to creating engineering-type models, especially if you need parametric modeling. The model you have in your pictures would be an easy build, perhaps twenty minutes creation time, a few dozen lines of text. I see two cylinders, some boolean subtraction and some radial primitives. If the code is clean (easy to do), the result is a manifold object.
On the even more challenging level, there are programs such as SolidWorks but the learning curve there is steep too. In the same ballpark would be Autodesk Fusion 360, for which a free hobbyist version exists.
Of course, with all of the above, there are YouTube tutorials to assist your learning process.
More to the point, one can use an online 3D model repair service. I've attempted to use a couple with mixed results.
Netfabb is a commonly recommended online repair service. I've not used that one, or if I have, the results were poor. A bad model (your example) will likely fail with most services.
I've used MakePrintable in the past as well. Again, a bad model will fail and Sketchup is the culprit here.
You can use Meshmixer in Analysis mode to find the errors and use Auto Repair All, but the results aren't going to be pretty!
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, software, slic3r, slicing
--- |
thread-4184 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4184 | Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics) | 2017-06-03T18:39:48.547 | # Question
Title: Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics)
So I'm finally building a new firmware (Repetier) since my current one can't be edited. It is a Delta printer and is explained in detail here: Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)
There are many variables that I couldn't find in the EEPROM. Can someone please explain those to me (listed below)? I've listed only the ones I feel are the most important for now.
General and Dimensions:
1. `KILL_METHOD`
2. `STARTUP_GCODE`
3. `DELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM`
4. Max. horizontal radius (`DELTA_MAX_RADIUS`): I have "max printable radius" and "delta radius" A(0), B(0) & C(0) each.
5. Radius error column A/B/C (`DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A/B/C`): Could this be the delta radii A(0), B(0) & C(0)?
---
Z-correction (distortion correction)
1. Full correction until (FC) or `DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE`
2. Reduce correction to zero at (RZ) or `DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT`
3. Correction radius (`DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R`)
4. Update every x computations (`DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY`)
I have the following in EEPROM:
1. Z-probe height \[mm\]
2. Max. z-probe - bed dist. \[mm\]
3. Z-probe speed \[mm/s\]
4. Z-probe x-y-speed \[mm/s\]
5. Z-probe offset x \[mm\]
6. Z-probe offset y \[mm\]
7. Z-probe X1 \[mm\]
8. Z-probe Y1 \[mm\]
9. Z-probe X2 \[mm\]
10. Z-probe Y2 \[mm\]
11. Z-probe X3 \[mm\]
12. Z-probe Y3 \[mm\]
13. Z-probe bending correction A \[mm\]
14. Z-probe bending correction B \[mm\]
15. Z-probe bending correction C \[mm\]
---
Stepper
1. `ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION`
2. `ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING`
---
Endstops
1. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING`
2. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN/ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING`
3. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN/ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING`
4. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX/ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING`
5. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX/ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING`
6. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX/ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING`
---
Fused Filament Fabrication
1. `EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED`
---
Also, how do I find out which temperature sensors are being used for the extruders? Where are they located?
Here's the EEPROM data:
```
<Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM>
<epr pos="1028" type="0" value="0">Language</epr>
<epr pos="75" type="2" value="115200">Baudrate</epr>
<epr pos="129" type="3" value="32.752">Filament printed [m]</epr>
<epr pos="125" type="2" value="21644">Printer active [s]</epr>
<epr pos="79" type="2" value="0">Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]</epr>
<epr pos="83" type="2" value="360000">Stop stepper after inactivity [ms,0=off]</epr>
<epr pos="11" type="3" value="80.0000">Steps per mm</epr>
<epr pos="23" type="3" value="200.000">Max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="35" type="3" value="20.000">Homing feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="39" type="3" value="10.000">Max. jerk [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="133" type="3" value="-140.000">X min pos [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="137" type="3" value="-140.000">Y min pos [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="141" type="3" value="0.000">Z min pos [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="145" type="3" value="140.000">X max length [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="149" type="3" value="140.000">Y max length [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="153" type="3" value="313.280">Z max length [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="59" type="3" value="2000.000">Acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>
<epr pos="71" type="3" value="2000.000">Travel acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>
<epr pos="881" type="3" value="355.200">Diagonal rod length [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="885" type="3" value="186.990">Horizontal rod radius at 0,0 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="925" type="3" value="140.000">Max printable radius [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="891" type="1" value="70">Segments/s for travel</epr>
<epr pos="889" type="1" value="180">Segments/s for printing</epr>
<epr pos="893" type="1" value="0">Tower X endstop offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="895" type="1" value="0">Tower Y endstop offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="897" type="1" value="0">Tower Z endstop offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="901" type="3" value="210.000">Alpha A(210):</epr>
<epr pos="905" type="3" value="330.000">Alpha B(330):</epr>
<epr pos="909" type="3" value="90.000">Alpha C(90):</epr>
<epr pos="913" type="3" value="0.000">Delta Radius A(0):</epr>
<epr pos="917" type="3" value="0.000">Delta Radius B(0):</epr>
<epr pos="921" type="3" value="0.000">Delta Radius C(0):</epr>
<epr pos="933" type="3" value="0.000">Corr. diagonal A [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="937" type="3" value="0.000">Corr. diagonal B [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="941" type="3" value="0.000">Corr. diagonal C [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1024" type="3" value="1.000">Coating thickness [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="808" type="3" value="0.800">Z-probe height [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="929" type="3" value="10.000">Max. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="812" type="3" value="5.000">Z-probe speed [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="840" type="3" value="70.000">Z-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="800" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe offset x [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="804" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe offset y [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="816" type="3" value="-95.260">Z-probe X1 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="820" type="3" value="-55.000">Z-probe Y1 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="824" type="3" value="95.260">Z-probe X2 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="828" type="3" value="-55.000">Z-probe Y2 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="832" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe X3 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="836" type="3" value="110.000">Z-probe Y3 [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1036" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe bending correction A [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1040" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe bending correction B [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1044" type="3" value="0.000">Z-probe bending correction C [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="880" type="0" value="1">Autolevel active (1/0)</epr>
<epr pos="106" type="0" value="1">Bed Heat Manager [0-3]</epr>
<epr pos="107" type="0" value="255">Bed PID drive max</epr>
<epr pos="124" type="0" value="80">Bed PID drive min</epr>
<epr pos="108" type="3" value="196.000">Bed PID P-gain</epr>
<epr pos="112" type="3" value="33.000">Bed PID I-gain</epr>
<epr pos="116" type="3" value="290.000">Bed PID D-gain</epr>
<epr pos="120" type="0" value="255">Bed PID max value [0-255]</epr>
<epr pos="1020" type="0" value="0">Enable retraction conversion [0/1]</epr>
<epr pos="992" type="3" value="3.000">Retraction length [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="996" type="3" value="13.000">Retraction length extruder switch [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1000" type="3" value="40.000">Retraction speed [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="1004" type="3" value="0.000">Retraction z-lift [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1008" type="3" value="0.000">Extra extrusion on undo retract [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1012" type="3" value="0.000">Extra extrusion on undo switch retract [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="1016" type="3" value="20.000">Retraction undo speed</epr>
<epr pos="200" type="3" value="93.000">Extr.1 steps per mm</epr>
<epr pos="204" type="3" value="150.000">Extr.1 max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="208" type="3" value="20.000">Extr.1 start feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="212" type="3" value="5000.000">Extr.1 acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>
<epr pos="216" type="0" value="3">Extr.1 heat manager [0-3]</epr>
<epr pos="217" type="0" value="230">Extr.1 PID drive max</epr>
<epr pos="245" type="0" value="40">Extr.1 PID drive min</epr>
<epr pos="218" type="3" value="7.0000">Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time</epr>
<epr pos="222" type="3" value="2.0000">Extr.1 PID I-gain</epr>
<epr pos="226" type="3" value="40.0000">Extr.1 PID D-gain</epr>
<epr pos="230" type="0" value="255">Extr.1 PID max value [0-255]</epr>
<epr pos="231" type="2" value="0">Extr.1 X-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="235" type="2" value="0">Extr.1 Y-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="290" type="2" value="0">Extr.1 Z-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="239" type="1" value="1">Extr.1 temp. stabilize time [s]</epr>
<epr pos="250" type="1" value="150">Extr.1 temp. for retraction when heating [C]</epr>
<epr pos="252" type="1" value="0">Extr.1 distance to retract when heating [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="254" type="0" value="255">Extr.1 extruder cooler speed [0-255]</epr>
<epr pos="300" type="3" value="93.000">Extr.2 steps per mm</epr>
<epr pos="304" type="3" value="150.000">Extr.2 max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="308" type="3" value="20.000">Extr.2 start feedrate [mm/s]</epr>
<epr pos="312" type="3" value="5000.000">Extr.2 acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>
<epr pos="316" type="0" value="3">Extr.2 heat manager [0-3]</epr>
<epr pos="317" type="0" value="230">Extr.2 PID drive max</epr>
<epr pos="345" type="0" value="40">Extr.2 PID drive min</epr>
<epr pos="318" type="3" value="7.0000">Extr.2 PID P-gain/dead-time</epr>
<epr pos="322" type="3" value="2.0000">Extr.2 PID I-gain</epr>
<epr pos="326" type="3" value="40.0000">Extr.2 PID D-gain</epr>
<epr pos="330" type="0" value="255">Extr.2 PID max value [0-255]</epr>
<epr pos="331" type="2" value="0">Extr.2 X-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="335" type="2" value="0">Extr.2 Y-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="390" type="2" value="0">Extr.2 Z-offset [steps]</epr>
<epr pos="339" type="1" value="1">Extr.2 temp. stabilize time [s]</epr>
<epr pos="350" type="1" value="150">Extr.2 temp. for retraction when heating [C]</epr>
<epr pos="352" type="1" value="0">Extr.2 distance to retract when heating [mm]</epr>
<epr pos="354" type="0" value="255">Extr.2 extruder cooler speed [0-255]</epr>
```
Sorry for the long, detailed and potentially frustrating question. I'm really new to this.
**Edit**: To be more comprehensive, I'm including pictures of the controller boards.
Also, I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: http://d-force.tw/
There are a few parts available: Hot-end PCB, Main controller board & Servo motor for calibration (Z-probe). I haven't been able to find the other board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it and placed just beside the main controller board), yet.
Does this change things? If yes then how?
I'm going ahead with burning a new firmware on the current board only because changing the board and shield combo seems too complicated to me. Is it though?
# Answer
Each of the settings have informative comments written just before the setting's `#define`, so reading those can point you in the right direction - if the required value doesn't jump out at you from your EEPROM settings.
Taking an educated guess (and I could be wrong), and after looking at the comments, I would imagine that:
---
### General and Dimensions:
1. `KILL_METHOD`. From Repetier firmware configuration questions (prusa mendel)
> I would select the second kill method since it allows to continue with your printer after a crash.
So, you want to have
```
#define KILL_METHOD 1
```
2. No idea, at the moment
3. You can either measure the height the carriage is from the floor, when the rod(s) is(are) horizontal, or just use the default `15` to be safe - it is probably best to double check this and physically measure it, to prevent any damage:
```
// Margin (mm) to avoid above tower minimum (xMin xMinsteps)
// If your printer can put its carriage low enough the rod is horizontal without hitting the floor
// set this to zero. Otherwise, measure how high the carriage is from horizontal rod
// Also, movement speeds are 10x to 20x cartesian speeds at tower bottom.
// You may need to leave a few mm for safety.
// Hitting floor at high speed can damage your printer (motors, drives, etc)
// THIS MAY NEED UPDATING IF THE HOT END HEIGHT CHANGES!
#define DELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM 15
```
4. 1. `DELTA_MAX_RADIUS` use `Max printable radius [mm]`.
2. The values you have for `Alpha A(210)`, `Alpha B(330)` & `Alpha C(90)` each, would be for:
```
#define DELTA_ALPHA_A 210
#define DELTA_ALPHA_B 330
#define DELTA_ALPHA_C 90
```
5. 1. The correction radii *should* be `0` and are the values you have for `Delta Radius A(0)`, `Delta Radius B(0)` & `Delta Radius C(0)`:
```
/** Correct radius by this value for each column.
Perfect builds have 0 everywhere. */
#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_C 0
```
2. Likewise, given your EEPROM settings that you have listed the values you have for `Corr. diagonal A[mm]`, `Corr. diagonal B[mm]` & `Corr. diagonal C[mm]`:
```
/** Correction of the default diagonal size. Value gets added.*/
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0
#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0
```
---
### Z-correction (distortion correction)
1. `DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE` \- Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.
```
/** z distortion degrades to 0 from this height on. You should start after the first layer to get
best bonding with surface. */
#define DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE 0.5
```
2. `DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT` \- Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.
```
/** z distortion correction gets down to 0 at this height. */
#define DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT 1.5
```
3. `DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R` \- Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.
```
/* For delta printers you simply define the measured radius around origin */
#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R 80
```
4. `DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY` \- For the moment, I would leave this at default. As the comments remark, this is computationally intensive, and will use a lot of processing power - power that you want to keep for controlling the motors. SO, it is best to not make this frequency too high.
```
/** Correction computation is not a cheap operation and changes are only small. So it
is not necessary to update it for every sub-line computed. For example lets take DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND_PRINT = 150
and fastest print speed 100 mm/s. So we have a maximum segment length of 100/150 = 0.66 mm.
Now lats say our point field is 200 x 200 mm with 9 x 9 points. So between 2 points we have
200 / (9-1) = 25 mm. So we need at least 25 / 0.66 = 37 lines to move to the next measuring
point. So updating correction every 15 calls gives us at least 2 updates between the
measured points.
NOTE: Explicit z changes will always trigger an update!
*/
#define DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY 15
```
---
### Stepper
1. `ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION` \- As stated, it is rarely needed, so leave it set to `0`
```
/* If you have a backlash in both z-directions, you can use this. For most printer, the bed will be pushed down by it's
own weight, so this is nearly never needed. */
#define ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION 0
```
2. `ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING` \- Do you need high frequencies? This could be a case of leaving set to the default of `1`, and if you experience stalling then set to `0` to see if it cures the stalling
```
/** If you need frequencies off more then 30000 you definitely need to enable this. If you have only 1/8 stepping
enabling this may cause to stall your moves when 20000Hz is reached.
*/
#define ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING 1
```
---
### Endstops
1. `ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING` \- these are relatively easy. From the comment for `ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING`
```
/* By default all endstops are pulled up to HIGH. You need a pull-up if you
use a mechanical endstop connected with GND. Set value to false for no pull-up
on this endstop.
*/
```
A *pullup* refers to a pull-up resistor. This is, in this case, a piece of circuitry in the MicroController Unit (MCU) (i.e. the Arduino chip\[ATmega 2560\] on the controller board. This `#define` allows you to enable, or disable, it for each input connected to an endstop. Basically, they stop short circuits between the power supply and ground - they do more than that but... You probably need the `MAX` endstops enabled, where you actually have an endstop. If there are no `MIN` endstops, i.e. at the bottom of the rails, then these can be set to false.
```
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN false
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN false
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN false
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX true
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX true
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX true
```
`ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING` this merely allows you to invert the input from the endstop. For example, if the endstop is triggered by a vertical carriage, then the switch will "close". If, instead, the code is actually looking for an "open" switch, rather than a "closed" switch, when the endstop switch is being triggered by the vertical carriage hitting it, then you simply need to invert it.
```
//set to true to invert the logic of the endstops
#define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING true
#define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING true
#define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true
#define ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING false
#define ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING false
#define ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING false
```
---
### Fused Filament Fabrication
1. `EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED` \- Probably best to leave as default, `100`, and tweak later, if need be
```
/* Speed in mm/s for extruder moves fom internal commands, e.g. switching extruder. */
#define EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED 100
```
---
With respect to the temperature sensor settings on the extruder (read: hotend), from Repetier-Firmware Documentation:
> ```
> #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 5
>
> ```
>
> What temperature sensor are you using in the extruder. The configuration file lists possible values and meanings.
>
> ```
> #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN 0
>
> ```
>
> This parameter is tricky and often causes wrong configurations. For historical reasons it is named PIN but it IS NOT A PIN NUMBER. It is the position in an array of analog input sources. In this array, the real pin number is stored. In 99.9% 0 is the correct answer here.
>
> ```
> #define EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN
>
> ```
>
> Which pin enables the heater block. It works with any pin. PWM capability is not required to use PID on an output.
For `EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE`, the temperature sensor is "buried' inside the hotend heater block, and as such it is probably not going to be easy, nor desirable, to remove and examine - although it is certainly possible to do so, if you feel up to the job. If could be just a question of trial-and-error. You have eight, or so, to choose from. However, the 100k thermistor is one of the most common types, and so `1` would seem like a good setting to choose, initially:
```
// What type of sensor is used?
// 0 is no thermistor/temperature control
// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)
// 4 is 10k thermistor
// 8 is ATC Semitec 104GT-2
// 12 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961
// 13 is PT100 for E3D/Ultimaker
// 14 is 100K NTC 3950
// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0
// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1
// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2
// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 60 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1/4 the price of AD595 but only MSOT_08 package)
// 61 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1.25 Vref offset like adafruit breakout)
// 97 Generic thermistor table 1
// 98 Generic thermistor table 2
// 99 Generic thermistor table 3
// 100 is AD595
// 101 is MAX6675
// 102 is MAX31855
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 1
```
As the Repetier documentation states, in 99.9% of the cases, for `EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN` a value of `0` will probably work. If it does not, then you may need to change this to some other value.
For `EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN`, just follow the wiring of your printer, and see which pin the heater is connected to.
---
### Where and how to change the settings
You are probably aware of this already, but in case you aren't...
Once you have downloaded `Repetier-Firmware-master.zip` from Github.com: repetier/Repetier-Firmware, and unzipped it, then you will need to edit the files in `Configuration.h` in the `src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier` directory. Note that the ArduinoAVR directory is used for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, and its derivatives.
Open `Repetier.ino` in the Arduino IDE, and edit `Configuration.h` in the Arduino IDE. You could also edit `Configuration.h` in your favourite plain text editor, if need be, but it is probably easier, and simpler to do everything in the Arduino IDE.
Once you have edited the settings that you require, as I described in Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed), compile and upload the firmware to your board. Then run a print. If something seems to be incorrectly set, stop the print. Then re-tweak your settings ad compile and upload again, and then run another test print. Ad infinitum...
After a few iterations, you should be quite comfortable with this process, and end up with a well calibrated printer.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: repetier, delta
--- |
thread-4185 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4185 | How to slice this wing so it has a smooth infill like perimeters | 2017-06-03T22:13:06.413 | # Question
Title: How to slice this wing so it has a smooth infill like perimeters
I have this wing design that I want to print:
You can notice that its walls have a thickness, which is 1.0 mm. I want to print it so that the perimeters are inside that thickness. Here is the wing sliced with 1 perimeter and 0% infill:
You can notice a gap between the perimeters. That gap is what I want filled and not the perimeters in the image. With 0 perimeters and 100% infill I got this zig-zagged line:
I want the gap to be filled; but, I don't want it to be zig-zagged like in the image. I want it to be smooth like the perimeters in the other image.
Basically I want a smooth infill that goes around the curves just like the perimeters. The reason why I don't want to print both the perimeters and the infill is because I want to save as much weight a possible as this is a wing of a model plane that must fly, so the lighter it is the more efficient it will be.
Any ideas how I can slice this?
The images are screenshots in Slic3r, but I can use Cura as well. This is just a test slice. The wing model is not finished yet.
# Answer
I found a great solution!
In Cura, there is a setting under **Shell** called **Horizontal Expansion**. What this does is it controls the distance between the two perimeters. A negative value in this field will make them come closer together, thus removing the gap between them.
I found that -0.1 is the perfect value for 1 mm thick walls like the ones in my design. So I set it to -0.1, then set the infill to 100% because in some spots the thickness is a little bit more than 1 mm, so the infill closes the gaps in those places. Here is the result:
You can see the perimeters are now sticking to each other and there is no gap between them. The result estimated weight is 71 g, which is a quite good reduction from the estimated 92 g when not using horizontal expansion.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Consider to create a test print using the settings you've presented in the sliced output rendering. It could be something as small as a 4 or 5 mm tall cross section, enough to get clear of the bed and establish a stable base. You may find that your goal is achieved.
Also consider that a common nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm and with an extrusion multiplier, you may not reach a clean integer combination. That is to say, a 0.4 mm nozzle and a 1.05 extrusion factor results in (theoretically) a build thickness of 0.42 mm. Take two of those and you have 0.84, but three of them are 1.26 mm.
You can increase number of wall thicknesses or reduce them as needed to avoid infill or the attempt by the printer to create infill. It may be necessary to adjust your model parameters to achieve a clean combination.
I know that Slic3r supports concentric infill, which will effectively trace the walls rather than turn them into zig-zag shapes. On a base layer, having such a pattern may make for a weaker layer, but you can adjust so many things in that respect that you should be able to accomplish your objective.
Experimentation is useful in a situation such as this. What Slic3r shows you isn't necessarily what will hit the bed.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: slicing, infill
--- |
thread-4180 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4180 | What tweaks do slicers use to get rafts to stick? | 2017-06-03T00:19:41.740 | # Question
Title: What tweaks do slicers use to get rafts to stick?
I've always had trouble getting prints to stick directly on my bed, but had great reliability when use rafts. This didn't present a problem when I was using PLA, but I recently got a roll of PETG and it is very hard to remove rafts, so I am once again trying to figure out whats wrong.
I am printing the same file (currently a simple square for testing) with the same settings, except I am turning rafts on/off. When rafts are on, my print sticks perfectly. When rafts are off, my print doesn't stick at all - not even the skirt (which sticks fine on the raft print). With rafts on, I can watch my printer lay down a nice line for the skirt / first layer. With rafts off, I watched plastic ooze out of the nozzle and ride along with the print head, not sticking to the plate at all.
I have a stock Monoprice Maker Select v2 with the PEI surface it shipped with. I haven't tried any bed additions/changes to get better adhesion, since I know rafts stick fine with what I have. I figure there must be some settings I can change to make my first layer stick too. I am using Simplify3D & have tried a few basic tweaks, but I am largely stabbing in the dark.
What are the specific characteristics of a first layer raft, in comparison to a first layer of my print, that might make it stick better?
# Answer
> 4 votes
You could experiment with the 'cleaning' part of the startup gcode shown here
```
G1 X100 Y0 F4000 ; move half way along the front edge
G1 Z1 ; move nozzle close to bed
M109 S200 ; heat nozzle to 200 degC and wait until reached
G4 P10000 ; wait 10 seconds for nozzle length to stabilize
G1 E10 ; extrude 10 mm of filament
G1 z15 F12000 E5 ; move 15 mm up, fast, while extruding 5mm
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
```
I'm not completely persuaded that it helps a lot, but the idea is to fill the extruder (with some pressure from the bed at a 1mm gap) right before starting the skirt. Typically, I still find the first line of skirt may be quite blobby, but a 2nd line of skirt seems much better. Obviously you need the bed alignment right too. A raft seems to have enough 'extra' extrusion to mask these issues a little bit.
Later reflection suggests that these introductory G-code snippets (I've now started using the PRUSA one of a line along the edge of the bed) risk problems with flexible filament, so it might be best to err on the side of conservative for the extrude volume rather than assume that more is better here.
You can find other similar solutions in this question: Writing G-code : swiping at start of print
# Answer
> 2 votes
When I started work on mine, the bed leveling and radius (Delta-only issue) were horrid, and my erstwhile assistant was fond of using a LOT of glue stick, which sort-of made things work, though in many cases with no first layer extrusion.
As I sorted things out, I found an apparent bug (Repetier Host (Mac) and Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 firmware - not sure which side the apparent bug is on, really, but I'd guess Repetier) where setting the first layer by percent lead to no extrusion, and setting an actual width/height it extruded. I also got the bed level and radius sorted so the first layer settings actually applied to most of the print area, rather than being wrong for most of it.
Finally, we sorted out some temperature issues (wrong thermistor type setting) and then found a fairly large discrepancy between the heater block and the nozzle (screwed into it) temperature. I now lay down the first layer (PLA) at a purported 240°C, based on a number of trials at different temperatures (which might change with a different batch of filament, I guess) and the rest at a purported 215°C. I set the first layer width to double the height so it's really laying down some plastic. An excessively LOW first layer height also causes problems (as there's very little plastic coming out if the layer is very low, even if you set the width wide.)
My bed is not heated and is plain glass, but I now get reasonable sticking with a *very* thin layer of gluestick (I put a dab on and rub it around with a little bit of water - it's barely visible.) With a coated heated bed that sticks to rafts, I think you'll just need to work on your first layer settings (including a level bed) and should not need to worry about glue at all.
# Answer
> 2 votes
While using rafts with PLA is a good idea due to warping, PETG is a material that requires very little build plate adhesion.
When I printed with PLA, I would normally use a two layer raft with a 0.3 mm air gap. With PETG, however, I only need a skirt. I recommend calibrating your extruder height so that when you slide a piece of paper underneath, you feel a gentle tug. While 0.2 mm is enough for printing PLA with rafts, 0.1-0.15 mm has worked well for me in terms of distance from the extruder nozzle to the heat bed.
Also, would you mind sharing your extruder and heat bed temperatures? Ive found that although PETG *will* melt at the same temperature as PLA, it tends to drag behind the extruder nozzle if the temperature is below ~240°C.
One final note: Even though most PETG distributors specify that a heated build plate is not required, a heated bed helps my prints stick better. I run a 60°C heat bed which seems to make my prints smoother in the end.
---
Tags: adhesion, simplify3d, monoprice-maker-select, rafts
--- |
thread-3605 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3605 | Will 3D Printed Dice Be Fair? | 2017-02-15T16:44:09.693 | # Question
Title: Will 3D Printed Dice Be Fair?
Is there anything to the process of 3D printing that might make the dice unfair/land on a specific side more frequently? Or will any imperfections be negligible, thus making the dice fair? I'm more concerned about making a d20 than anything else, so focus on that shape if need be.
---
I am using a MakerBot Replicator+ with FDM, so take this into consideration if it affects your answer, and if you believe a different printing process would have an advantage over this don't hesitate to include it.
# Answer
## It probably won't be fair.
Incidentally, I have a decent amount of experience with 3D printing.
It depends heavily on the particular technology that you're using to do the 3D printing, but nearly all forms of printing aren't perfect--depending on the design you make (solid? honeycombed? hollow?), there will be slight, or not-so-slight variations across the faces, which will result in an unfair die. In particular, the faces that are parallel to the build surface will probably be different compared to the ones that are angled.
You could probably deal with some of these problems with some kind of post-processing, but honestly at that point buying dice would be easier. 3D printing is for making custom or prototype objects, and isn't really suited to mass production of simple shapes like dice.
Even manufactured dice have some imperfections, and a slightly unfair die probably won't make much of a difference in gameplay, but it will be hard for you to determine whether the imperfections from 3D printing are severe enough to make the die unfair without rolling it many times and looking at its distribution. Again, at that point, it's easier to just buy the dice.
That being said, custom d20s can be super cool looking, and if you're going to 3D print something, might as well make it look cool...
> 33 votes
# Answer
I've printed a few dice, and thrown them ~100 times each to check -- they were very far off from fair. One reason, I think, is that the inner fill (and thus a lot of weight) is oriented a certain way. It might help to do solid-fill or no fill, but I haven't compared yet.
> 9 votes
# Answer
Custom 3D printed dice are distinctly lower quality than the dice from a FLGS you see in 'standard' dice sets, and around the same quality of die as the cheaper plastic dice available online. It depends somewhat on your printer, but you can get very uniform results in terms of material density with the issues in die fairness being limited to problems with the surfaces (e.g. the sides aren't usually all the same texture). You can fix this with statistical modelling and sanding to get a very good die, but it takes forever and is a huge pain and is totally not worth it from a practical standpoint. A quick sanding to get all faces roughly the same texture is usually good enough, in my experience. You can also just print the die so that the build-surface face and the face parallel with it (if it's not a d4) are unimportant faces, like the '10' and '11' on a d20-- being smoother they'll be rolled a little less often but the average roll will be the same regardless of what number pair that effects if you keep the 'opposite sides sum to die size + 1' rule. A quick sanding doesn't take too long and works well, though; that's definitely what I would recommend from my experience.
As a note, the main *advantage* in 3d printing dice is that it's affordable, whereas otherwise acquiring truly custom dice (weighted to specification, unusual number of sides, etc) requires you to make them by hand or shell out many thousands of dollars. 3d printed dice are particularly useful when you want to concoct biased dice, as you can easily alter things like the physical die size, weight (by altering how much of the interior is hollow), weight distribution (by altering *where* the hollow cavities are-- known as 'floaters' when these gaps are used to bias the roll, much less good than weighting), and number placement to conceal the differences between your die and a 'fair' die you 3d printed.
In my experience, 3d printed dice work fine for RPGs, but feel a little light (at least with my feedstock). I used them for a bit with a group I GMed for while on a bit of a 3d printing kick, and they definitely have some niche uses, but beautiful high-quality dice with a good feel to them are so cheap nowadays I just don't see any reason to go to the expense and trouble when you can avoid it.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I have tried to make an **unfair die** by putting 100% infill in the conner opposite to 6, 5 and 4.
When you float it, it always comes with expected side up. So with floating you really can check if somebody has **tried** to make it unfair.
The real-life tests have unfortunately shown my complete failure :)
After 104 throws the average is 3.49. Even less than "fair" 3.5!
It looks like the weight of plastic is too low to compete with hitting and rotation. The next try could be to put something metallic into it during printing.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Pretty much all die are unfair to an extent. If you are seriously concerned about accuracy then you will need to test what you produce and, if not satisfactory, modify the design reprint and retest. A simple/coarse test is to float your die in very salty water and note which face faces upwards, repeatedly perturb the die noting the upwards face. Any egregious bias should reveal itself after a handful of perturbations. Note that this test only reveals that a die has a bias, not which face it is biased to land on. It's also probably not massively accurate but should be good enough to let you gauge whether your printed die are any worse than your shop bought ones.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Well it is a bit more complicated than that. Changes are the d20 you buy in the store is a bit more favored as well. Now we are talking statically, it will like one side over the other. As the difference in weight distribution is not drastic if you print it solid, it will not matter. In use you likely will not see it.
That said if you wanted to be extra sure.. I would use the 3d printed model, make a silicon mold with it. Then use Resin to make the dice. Now you can start making whole batches of dice as good as what you get in the store.
My final answer is, technically it will favor but you will not notice.
> 2 votes
# Answer
**Not likely.**
Creating true 'fair' dice is fairly difficult to do even with high tolerance processes. 3D printing (hobbyist level) is much lower tolerance and will definitely be weighted incorrectly especially if the infill is anything less than full. Professional grade 3D Printers will be better and more accurate but will still likely be weighted slightly to one side.
Regardless of process though it would be possible to create a fair dice using 3D printing as the primary means of manufacturing and then weighing, balancing and doing some post processing to even them out.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
--- |
thread-4196 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4196 | Laser engraving software for Boxzy 3D printer | 2017-06-05T22:30:24.497 | # Question
Title: Laser engraving software for Boxzy 3D printer
I have a laser-engraving "head" for one of my 3D printers (a Boxzy, so it's designed for it, not just strapping a random laser onto something), and I'd like to try using it to, well, *engrave* something. So:
* Can anyone point me to some control software for this?
The Boxzy came with a license to Fusion360, but I found that nearly impossible to use (or maybe understand), and it wasn't clear how to apply it to engraving anyway (as opposed to milling or regular FDM printing).
I suppose I could just sketch out a thin 3D extrusion of the text or design, and print it in the usual way, setting the layer-height and/or scaling so it only "prints" one or 2 layers. I guess turning the laser on and off counts as turning the extruder motor on and off... But that's clearly a hack. Any "real" software for this sort of thing?
Any other hints are also welcome.
I'm thinking of writing my own software to generate G-code for this, though rasterizing fonts sounds painful in something like OpenScad... Must be a better way...
# Answer
> 2 votes
Autodesk must have been reading your mind.
A brand new video just got posted today from Autodesk on how to do this in F360.
---
Tags: software, laser, 2d
--- |
thread-4165 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4165 | Monitoring X, Y, Z position of extruder in real time | 2017-05-30T22:07:55.017 | # Question
Title: Monitoring X, Y, Z position of extruder in real time
I have a wooden first generation Replicator with dual extruders and I'm trying to get an X, Y, Z position from the printer to the computer in real time. Is that even possible?
The firmware used by the replicator is version 5.5 I believe, and I've been doing tests with ReplicatorG but I'm not married to that software.
Please let me know if you need any extra info before being able to comment on this...
# Answer
Depending on your methods, you can easily (evidently) get (or compute) "where the printhead is **commanded** to be" in more-or-less real time, as evidenced by the "progress display" in Repetier Host software (based off the G-Code it's sending **to** the printer) - though I have found it advisable to stick with the temperature display while printing as I've had the host bog down on processing the display at least once, which then made the print go slow.
As for "is it even possible" - sure, how much would you like to spend? Add encoders to each axis that are read by the computer, or by something (probably not your printer processor for "least impact on the printing" and "most real-time") that reads them and talks to the computer. The more precise you need, the more expensive it gets. Of course that also starts to probe 'what you mean by "real time" ?' as there are applications where the time spent reading the encoder and sending/receiving the data would be considered "not real-time" by the time the computer had the data, but for the average person with a printer built partly from wood, it's likely "real-time enough."
> 2 votes
# Answer
There is an open source MTConnect adapter/agent written in Python for MakerBot Replicator that includes axis position. To my knowledge it was only developed for and tested on a Replicator 2, though.
https://github.com/mtconnect/makerbot\_agent
> 2 votes
---
Tags: replicator-dual
--- |
thread-4203 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4203 | Aluminium cube - fan and hotend mount - is it worth it? | 2017-06-08T15:04:33.720 | # Question
Title: Aluminium cube - fan and hotend mount - is it worth it?
Has anyone used one of these aluminium cubes?
It is used to mount the fan for the hotend, when used on a delta effector, like so:
Are they a good idea?
Without actually buying one and trying it, compared to the *traditional* fan mount, I imagine the pros are
* Additional heatsink surface area
and that is it, I could think of only **one** tenuous advantage...
However, I would imagine that the cons are:
* Additional weight on the effector<sup>1</sup>, for the push rods to move around, i.e. slightly higher inertia;
* Probably restricted air flow, and;
* Unnecessary additional cost
Therefore, as the cons appears to outweigh the pros, are they worth upgrading to from, say, a typical plastic fan mount:
Does anyone have first hand experience? Are there any other additional benefits, and/or is heat dissipation *that much* better?
---
<sup>1</sup> Of course, the lightest solution is with the fan mounted, such that it hangs off the top of the effector, but with no air flow guide and hence less effective heat dissipation.
# Answer
I think its only advantage is that it serves to move money from the folks who buy it to the folks that sell it, and that's an advantage purely for the folks that sell it.
"Additional heatsink surface area" is quite doubtful - it would have poor coupling to the actual heatsink. If the actual heatsink is correctly designed, there's no need for additional area, anyway. This design clearly does limit airflow to the top and bottom fins - the bottom one, in particular, is not a good place to limit airflow for best function, and yet it's severely occluded by the design of this block.
Save your money.
Edit - I think the plastic one shown is also less than ideal - the close coupling to the edges of the heatsink reduces the effectiveness of the heatsink, which would otherwise be dumping heat into the airflow past those edges. A better design (IMHO, gut engineering) would be spaced off the ends/edges of the fins about as much as the space between fins, not touching them. Axial fans perform poorly with backpressure, and that would also reduce backpressure.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: hotend, delta, fans
--- |
thread-4205 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4205 | What do I do when I have a little filament left? | 2017-06-09T05:33:24.357 | # Question
Title: What do I do when I have a little filament left?
I just printed my first thing, now there's very little filament left in my Monoprice Select Mini v2.
What do I do about it? Yank it out? Try to print out what's left of it and hope it all extrudes safely?
I'm not sure what my next move here is. Is doing either, dangerous to the safety of my machine? I haven't seen any guides or information on this and I'm afraid I'm going to break something.
# Answer
> 11 votes
Heat the extruder up first, then remove the filament. You can remove the filament either by reversing the extruder using a command such as `G1 E-100 F200`, by using your printer's controls/LCD (if it has one) or simply pull the filament out by hand. To this end, most extruders have a lever that you can push to disengage the drive gear to make it easier to pull the filament out.
You can just heat the extruder up to printing temperature, but a perhaps better approach is a cold-pull, where you heat the extruder up just barely enough to be able to remove the filament (to, say, 120-180°C) and then pull the filament out. This has the advantage of removing more of the old filament and perhaps also taking some debris that may be stuck in the nozzle with it.
Trying to print it all out won't work because once the last bit of filament goes past the drive gear, you won't be able to extrude the rest of it. Feeding in a new bit of filament might push the old filament out, but it could just as easily get jammed.
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-4208 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4208 | Printrun doesn't connect when 12 V is on | 2017-06-09T16:12:34.507 | # Question
Title: Printrun doesn't connect when 12 V is on
I'm able to connect to Arduino+RAMPS through USB. I can even check end stops with `M119`. However, if I plug it to the power supply, my MacBook goes crazy and restart itself! Things I have tried:
* Uninstalled OSX, installed Ubuntu, I get readiness error when PSU is connected.
* Bought a new pair of RAMPS + Arduino.
* Run RAMPS all naked without anything on it.
* Measured PSU output, 12.2 V is stable.
I'm at a point I started to think my MacBook's USB ports are messed up. It is a 2008 model, do you think that would be right to blame?
**Update**
Tried a new and a very short USB cable: It worked for the first time and I'm able to home all axes, but laptop's trackpad gets very hard to control for some reason. I can only use an external mouse.
# Answer
It sounds a bit like you are having (additional) grounding issues<sup>1</sup>. Are your MacBook and the RAMPS using the same ground, i.e. are they using the same mains circuit?
*If* you are using the same power strip, then the next thing to check would be that the PSU on the printer correctly grounded (at the bottom of the unit).
From David Crocker's superlative blog, see Upgrading the large delta printer - Power supply output grounding:
> ### Power supply output grounding
>
> While taking some measurements on my machine, I discovered that the negative side of the output of the 12V LED power supply I am using was not connected to ground inside the power supply as I expected. This presents a safety hazard. So I added an additional wire from ground to the spare negative output terminal of the power supply.
---
<sup>1</sup> Why do I think this? Three reasons:
1. Because grounding issues is one of the most common, and over-looked, problems, in circuit design;
2. I have often had peripheral devices, that use a separate *additional* power supply, cause a PC laptop to go "haywire" (or worse, die) once connected via RS232/USB (especially charge sensitive devices on the laptop, such as the track pad), due to different, or *floating*, grounds, and;
3. I had recently read the blog and made special note to check all of my power supplies as they are *all* terrible, cheap, Chinese knockoffs, and grounding circuits in Thailand are usually *non-existant*, or, at best, *poorly wired up*.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, pronterface, grounding
--- |
thread-4213 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4213 | Building new Repetier firmware for a delta printer (D-force) | 2017-06-10T08:49:15.687 | # Question
Title: Building new Repetier firmware for a delta printer (D-force)
So my printer's calibration got screwed after a sudden reboot and since the current firmware (0.92.6) is licensed, I cannot edit it. So I'm building a new one.
These are the controller boards of my printer:
**1. Main controller board:**
The black board is a MKS Base v1.3
The other green board beside it has a DC to DC SMPS (HRD12008) on it, along with Z-min, X-min, T0, Fan-, D11 and a flat ribbon wire connector (can be seen in the picture).
The other box with an acrylic top is a solid state relay.
---
**2. Cooling fan and Z-probe PCB:**
---
The brand on all these boards is "D-force". I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: D-FORCE.TW - 3D Printer.
There are a few parts available:
I haven't been able to find the other green board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it), yet.
I've downloaded a new firmware from Repetier website. It can be found here, Repetier-Firmware-2017-06-09.
Now, while compiling the firmware, I need to specify the Z-probe pin. I'm unable to do so because it's not plugged into the main board.
Here is a close-up of the Z-probe & the servo motor that pins it down.
Any help would be appreciated here. On the web these printers are known as "D-force printers".
**Edit1**: I found this on the manufacturer's Facebook group:
Please note that this is v1.1 and my printer has v1.3 although I haven't found any difference between the two, yet. I'll update on that if I find any. Hope this helps.
**Edit2**: The Y-min pin on the main controller board is empty. The X-min and Z-min are connected to the X-min and Z-min on the additional green board respectively. Also, there is a T0 on the additional board which is connected to A13 of the main controller.
# Answer
You, obviously, do actually have a Z-probe, but in case another user does not, or you decide not to use yours, I will cover both cases (with and without a Z-probe).
### Z-probe not present
If not, then in `configuration.h` set the `FEATURE_Z_PROBE` to `false`, like this:
```
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE false
```
or
```
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 0.
```
Then you also need to set
```
#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION 0
```
as this requires the `FEATURE_Z_PROBE` if otherwise set to `1` or `true`. *However*, thereafter, upon recompilation, I then get a lot of other errors... but these seem to be more to do with selecting the correct board, `#define MOTHERBOARD`, in `pins.h`, than the disabling of the Z-probe. This error:
```
fastio.h:29: error: 'DIOORIG_FAN2_PIN_WPORT' was not declared in this scope
```
is due to, from Can't compile firmware:
> You are using `ORIG_FAN2_PIN` in your configuration but apparently your boards pin definition does not define that pin. In that case check board description and use the digital pin number instead for that function.
*Actually that is not entirely true*<sup>1</sup>.
**NOTE**: It might be easier to just define `Z_PROBE_PIN` to something other than `-1`, which is what it is defaulting to, as set in `configuration.h`:
```
#define Z_PROBE_PIN -1
```
### Z-probe present
If you do have a Z-probe, then trace the wires to see where they go on the controller board, determine that pin number on the board and then enter that pin number into `configuration.h`. For example, *if* it is connected to pin 63, then:
```
#define Z_PROBE_PIN 63
```
and `leave DISTORTION_CORRECTION` untouched.
### Where to plug the Z-probe in
If your Z-probe has become unplugged, then you need to choose a pin to connect it to. This is easy... you simply connect it to any free pin. Now, you probably only have three end stops, at the top of the delta frame. These are the MAX end stops. So, you can simply connect the Z-probe to any of the three MIN end stop pins, on the board. Obviously, you will leave the three `#define`s for the MIN end stop, in `Configuration.h`, un-configured, and then specify the pin, that you did use, in
```
#define Z_PROBE_PIN <your pin>
```
See Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - comment 1950
> Put the zprobe on any free pin you have but do NOT set it in endstops. It is not a endstop it is a zprobe.
>
> Then set it in zprobe section with pullup enabled so it is drawn to high internally until you connect the pin with gnd. Then G31 should also be consistent. I guess you missed the pullup part making it a random result.
and Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - Comment\_1952
> Not sure why this is a problem. You have 6 endstop pins and need 3 for endstops + 1 for zprobe = 4 pins. Still 2 endstop pins free.
>
> When I said not in endstops I meant not in the endstop configuration. There you only put switches that work as endstop.
### Highlighting the connections
The green PCB, for the fan and Z-probe, does not appear to have any logic on it (I can't see any), so it is just a collection of tracks (i.e. wires). As there are no logic chips on it, you can trace the circuit from the Z-probe to the controller (either visually, or using a multimeter set on continuity check). I assume that the PCB is connected to the controller board somewhere/somehow... Via the 10 wire grey ribbon cable that goes to the second green PCB next to the main board, next to LED3, as shown in the first photo? This ribbon cable transfers signals to/from the Z-probe/fan PCB to the secondary PCB, which appears to be a power related PCB (i.e. heaters). Somehow the secondary, power, PCB then connects to the main controller board.
One of the three unused MINIMUM end stop pins *should* be used for the Z-probe. This is assuming that:
* you only have three physical end stops (at the top of the three axes) *and*;
* they are connected to the MAXIMUM end stop pins.
If you have six end stops, (one at the top and one at the bottom), then that changes things drastically. Assuming that you only have three, then the three unused MINIMUM pins will be used for some other purposes (Z-probe, servo arm, something else?).
You need to confirm that you only have end stops at the *top* of the printer and not the bottom, i.e. only `MAX_ENDSTOP` (or `X+`, `Y+` and `Z+`) pins. If so, then you should have three (sets of) (`MIN_ENDSTOP`) pins with nothing connected to them (in theory). So, one of those three `MIN_ENDSTOP` pins will have the Z-probe connected to it. If you are having trouble locating the `MIN_ENDSTOP` pins, trace where the 3 physical (MAX) end stops are connected to, those will be the `MAX_ENDSTOP` pins. Then from that, the `MIN_ENDSTOP` pins should be relatively easy to identify. Hopefully that makes sense.
Looking at the schema then it becomes obvious. You see `X+`, `X-`, `Y+`, `Y-`, `Z+` and `Z-`. The physical endstops should be connected to the three `+` connectors. The three `-` connectors: two of them are hopefully not connected. The one that is should be the Z-probe. Looking at the photo, unfortunately, it seems as if all six (or just five?) are populated.
Personally, to save time, I would get a multimeter, unplug the `X`, `Y`, `Z` `+`/`-` connectors (actually only the `-` connectors) in turn and test each one, to see which is connected to the Z-probe.
To check the correct pin is used, you really only have two (sensible) options: either visually, or; multimeter. Multimeter would be best, and the most certain. However, there are two other options open to you (one risky, and one laborious):
* As we have whittled it down to two connectors (`X-min` and `Z-min`, there are only two pins (for the Z-probe and servo) to worry about, you only have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong, so you could guess, code it up and see if it works - if it doesn't, then change the pin defined, and recompile...
**IMPORTANT**: After a rethink, it is best not to just take the 50-50 chance, as the servo pin is probably configured as an *output* and the Z-probe pin will be an *input*. You could end up *damaging the control board*.
* Finally, you could, in theory, test it programmatically, but that would require writing some test code for the controller, which (as we are having enough trouble as it is with the configuration.h file) would be a nightmare, to put it bluntly.
**Schema**
**Photo of control board**
---
It is probably a good idea to read this, lengthly, article: Repetier - Z-probing.
---
### Footnotes
<sup>1</sup> I have finally managed to get `Repetier.ino` to compile. The problem lay with the `Configuration.h` file that came with the googledrive download, that you provided. Trying to either manually configure `Configuration.h`, or pre-loading it into Repetier's configuration tool, always resulted in the same compilation error, see DIOORIG\_FAN2\_PIN\_WPORT error. The simplest solution is to create a `Configuration.h` file from *new*, using the Configuration tool. When you do that, it will compile ok.
Or, if you really want to do it manually, either:
1. Set `NUM_EXTRUDER` to `1` and not `2` as the `FAN2` compile error comes from the second extruder's set of `#define`s, or;
2. More precisely, if you *do* have two extruders, then change the line `#define EXT1_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN ORIG_FAN2_PIN` and specify a pin, i.e. `65`, en lieu of using `ORIG_FAN2_PIN`.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: delta, repetier
--- |
thread-409 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/409 | What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it? | 2016-01-27T14:26:50.577 | # Question
Title: What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?
I'm thinking about buliding my own 3D printer from scratch.
Is it better to buy a starter DIY kit and try to build your printer around it, or to order separate parts for printer, and then to combine a printer?
# Answer
From a general point of view, there are a few things to consider.
**If you buy a kit**:
Pros:
* You get some insurance that *you have all the parts that you need* to get a functional printer - all the electronics, structure, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, wires and so on.
* Most likely, all the parts you get are made to *fit together*.
* You will (usually) get a *manual*, often a community that can help you out, and sometimes even technical support.
* Sometimes, it can be *cheaper* than buying each part separately (but it can also be more expensive)
Cons:
* You have limited/no options to customize your printer to your own preferences without purchasing additional parts.
* Some kits can be difficult to upgrade later or may be locked to some configuration or software.
**My opinion:**
The way I look at it, the better option for *you* depends on how you want to spend your time. That is:
1. If you get a kit, you can spend more time building.
2. If you collect all the parts yourself, you will have to spend time planning, ordering parts (possibly multiple times) in addition to actually building the printer. A possible lack of manuals could also increase the building difficulty.
If you don't already own a 3D printer, I would recommend getting a kit, simply because struggling with trivial things like parts not fitting together can take away the fun for many people.
> 21 votes
# Answer
I built my first printer from scratch, though it's fairly similar to an oversize MendelMax 2. It was a good learning experience, but very frustrating at times. Overall, I think I'm glad I did it that way, but a kit would have gotten me printing much faster and a bit cheaper.
Here are my main impressions from the experience...
* You should already be familiar with most of the basic skills involved: soldering, wood- and/or metal-working, electronics, etc. And don't forget software -- I wrote a lot of Arduino code for various things along the way.
* You'll need to be diligent about searching for answers online, because there's no manual to go to. This group should make it a lot easier now than it was last year.
* Some problems will have great answers online; some won't, or the answers will be hard to piece together. I found that stepper motors have a "lore" all their own, with several subtleties I didn't expect.
* You'll have to decide *how* "from scratch" you want to go -- I bought completed Arduino Mega and RAMPs boards, but you could buy a kit or components for those instead, or even design your own electronics altogether.
* You'll make mistakes and spend money to recover. For example, my Y-axis motor couldn't move the build platform nearly fast enough (too much inertia), so I had to re-work that axis entirely, using a much more expensive lead screw, plus bearings, blocks, couplers,....
* If you think you might want to sell the printer later, I imagine it would be easier if it's a known design.
That said, it's a blast except when you get stuck; and the satisfaction when your first successful print comes out is pretty great.
Oh, one other hint: especially for hardware, buy in bulk. You can probably get 100 of a certain bolt online for the price of 10 at your local hardware store. Give or sell the leftovers to help others get started.
> 10 votes
# Answer
A few months ago I bought a cheap (220 USD) Prusa i3 kit from China and put it together. Putting it together was fun and still a bit of a challenge. It was also nice to have pre-configured firmware already loaded onto the Melzi board that came with it.
So for the downside: The board (Melzi) that came in the kit only supports one extruder so if I want to add more extruders later I have to replace it. This means that in that case I would have paid for two boards.
Maybe you should ask yourself what your #1 goal is. If you are mostly interested in having a printer for use in other projects, then a kit might be what you want. If your main interest is having something to tinker with, then maybe you should go all in and make everything from scratch.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Three great answers have already been posted, and it has been extremely interesting to read them. I shall try not to repeated what has already been said.
I have sourced the parts *separately* for three different printers:
I have been coding Arduinos and Pis and building robots and quadcopters for a few years now. Then, in November 2016, because I needed a prop guard for a ZMR250 quadcopter that I found hard to obtain, but easy to print, I started reading about 3D printers (mostly RepRap wiki, and then individual blogs of straight forward builds, as well as design modifications, of Prusa, P3Steel, Wilson and Delta/Kossel printers), watching countless construction videos and asking questions here on SE 3D Printers, and reading other's questions and answers, as well as going through eBay for hours at a time, looking up parts and making numerous Bill Of Materials (BOMs) and blogging the information that I gleaned. So this gave me a good grounding and starting point for when I did get around to ordering. In fact, the process is still on going...
After ordering the parts, in December, piecemeal, I then had to wait for a month for the parts to arrive from China, during which time I read some more, and revised what I had already learned.
I then, finally, got to work on the P3Steel, in January, but two and a half weeks later, before I had finished it, I had to move to BKK for an extended period.
I suffered delays with the P3Steel build due to postal latency, obviously, but also, some partial kits where missing critical parts (see Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?), so I had to get them machined in Thailand (because it only costs around $3 to get something machined here). Hopefully, when I get back to the UK, I should have everything to hand and be able to finish the build in a few weeks maximum
Once in Bangkok, I started sourcing parts for a Wilson II, and then, subsequently, a Kossel, mostly because the aluminium and steel rods are a quarter, to a half, the price that they are in Europe. Also, I had to go through the ordering process again, getting parts from China for these two printers - however, the parts from China only take two weeks to arrive to Thailand, not a month or so, for the UK. The Wilson II parts I plan to take back to the UK, in order to complete the build there, hopefully printing the plastic parts on the P3Steel, when/if the P3Steel is completed.
Note, that seven, or eight months, down the line from when I first took an interest in 3D printing, I *still* haven't completed a single printer, yet. However, I sure as hell have learnt a lot. Note: most of the delay is due to the six month relocation away from my printer build in the UK.
Also, due to my reading of the modification blogs for the Wilson and Kossel, I have recently been re-purchasing upgrades, before I have even fitted a bolt together, for the Kossel and Wilson, let alone completed either of the base builds. For example, I have just purchased Chinese aluminium vertices, rather than the plastic PLA prints that I got from Sintron. So I have ended up with a fair collection of spare (redundant?) parts, but again, it has helped me gain a great insight as to what works well, and what does not.
To reiterate that which TestGeek has said, *one major tip* I would have is (and I read this on a forum when I was first getting into 3D printer building), if you are sourcing the parts separately, is to buy bulk (get packs of 10 pcs, 50 pcs, 100 pcs), and buy more than you require: nuts, bolts, bearings, GT2 belt, GT2 pulleys. The price comes down phenomenally, and you can resell the spares, locally, for about as much as you paid for the whole lot, online, thereby covering, or almost covering, the cost of the printer. Plus, spares come in handy for further builds down the road. Don't buy anything from the US (unless you are already in the US, I guess) - the import/postage fees are outrageous.
---
### TL;DR
In the same way as you learn more from building a kit as opposed to buying a pre-built printer, you will learn more sourcing the parts separately, but it might cost more, in redundant parts. Also:
* Research extensively first
* Buy bulk
* Be prepared for delays, be patient
* Be prepared for an iterative design
> 1 votes
---
Tags: printer-building, desktop-printer, diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-4220 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4220 | Enclosure, things to pay attention to? | 2017-06-12T16:00:42.393 | # Question
Title: Enclosure, things to pay attention to?
I got an Anet A8 and want to build an enclosure for it. Since I'm currently only printing PLA, I would do it mainly for noise cancelling, because I have to run it in my room. I however want to have the possibility to upgrade it later with, say, an air filter etc., for example for ABS.
* What do I have to pay attention to?
* Do I need ventilation slits?
* Would you put the filament inside or run it through a small hole from the top?
* Any tips for making it especially noise cancelling?
* Is wood the right material?
# Answer
Sort of related, see the answers to:
Addressing your points in turn:
* **Ventilation** \- Probably not, as you want to keep the print warm. However, when printing with filaments where well ventilated conditions are recommended<sup>1</sup>, to prevent the build up of noxious fumes, from ABS for example, you would need (active) filtration, see this answer.
* **Filament Placement** \- I have seen printers fully enclosed, including the filament. However, there is the potential issue, especially if using PLA, that if the temperature inside the enclosure reaches temperatures approaching those of a closed car, on a hot day, then the PLA filament could become damaged/melt, and not roll of the spool correctly. In that case, you could place the reel on to of the enclosure and feed it through a (small) hole in the top. Feeding it through the side, *could* add additional resistance to it being pulled from the reel, depending upon placement.
* **Noise cancellation** \- Line the enclosure with *non-flammable* foam, or some other *non-flammable* noise cancelling lining
* **Material** \- As Mark states in his answer, be extra careful of thermal runaway, as 3D printers run hot, and an enclosed printer, even hotter. Wood is the sort of material you probably *want to avoid*. Whilst it is cheap, and would probably work fine in most situations, in the case of an emergency (read, *fire*), then you are merely providing additional combustable material. It would be advisable to stick with an aluminium frame (non-combustable) and glass (non-combustable and insulating).
Additonal Points:
* **Electronics** \- You may want to consider placing the electronics (i.e. controller board) outside the enclosure, as the RAMPS board generally likes to be kept as cool as possible (especially the stepper drivers).
* **Display/Control** \- Along with the electronics, it could be a good idea to also place the LCD display, and conjoint control panel, outside the enclosure, so as to provide ease of access. You don't really want to have to keep removing/opening the enclosure to change a minor setting.
* **Access** \- Do you want a *lift-off* type enclosure, or have an access door? The latter is certainly more user friendly, or convenient.
* **Sturdiness** \- Do you want a light weight (flimsy?) enclosure, or a heavier, more robust, enclosure?
* **Safety** \- An air-tight fire box could be worth considering.
Note: After having stated that wood is not the best idea, it seems that IKEA tables are sometimes used, by stacking two on top of each other: New IKEA hack lets you create a 3D printer enclosure for cheap
A safer bet is this delta printer enclosure, which is, essentially, a larger delta frame, made from aluminium extrusion and acrylic, enclosing a smaller delta printer: 4 Simple Steps to Build Your Own 3D Printer Enclosure
For an example of a cheap, yet extremely flammable enclosure, made from plastic sheeting and piping, see How to build an enclosure for your 3D printer
---
<sup>1</sup> See Davo's comment.
> 6 votes
# Answer
**Make sure and pay attention to safety.**
I have heard of more than one report of a RepRap printer going up in flames. On example of that is if the thermistor fails, or gets disconnected, and the controller puts the bed, or extruder, into thermal runaway.
Make you make the enclosure out of a non-combustible material, so you don't add any fuel to the fire.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For ABS, if you are using an air filter, you do NOT want ventilation, because ABS prints are better quality if the ambient temperature is up at 50°C (or even warmer), and ventilation will reduce your chamber temperature. Whatever has been helping for noise cancelling now should work in the future.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: enclosure, ventilation
--- |
thread-505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/505 | Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium? | 2016-02-05T18:24:43.220 | # Question
Title: Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium?
Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with.
Aluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly.
When printing mostly ABS and PLA, which one is better?
# Answer
> 15 votes
I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).
As pointed out in the comments below, the heat expansion of aluminium could potentially be mitigated by increasing the thickness of the bed, as well as heating it evenly. Also, a common solution is to place a glass plate on top of an aluminium bed, at the cost of a slightly longer heat-up time.
In my experience, printing directly on heated glass can be very practical and give a nice surface finish for some PLA variants and other materials that support it. I don't know if printing directly on aluminium can give similar benefits.
# Answer
> 5 votes
I have aluminium 3 mm thick and 110x110 mm big, and it bends when heated. Inevitably the center becomes higher than the sides. It is not a problem with PLA and nylon, but noticeable with ABS.
I use Kapton on top of it, and the print sticks easily with PLA. ABS requires hairspray on top of it, and nylon requires glue stick (but it fails anyway if the piece is big).
If you use glass with a top layer for proper adherence, you should be fine. Aluminium below could help spreading the heat, but... it will bend and push the glass, therefore you increase the risk of breaking: the glass does not bend much, but internally it is ALREADY withstanding a lot of stress when hot, and aluminium below could push it to the limit.
Edit: it appears however that aluminium beds are in general the best ones:
# Answer
> 2 votes
Aluminium gives low adherence. Probably because its top of surfaces gives temperature fast. But using conductive metals is the right direction. There are some benefits:
* Electromagnetic induction allows to heat faster and reach higher temperatures with same current.
* Non-transparency allows to use mirror under bed to make heating bonus.
But's:
* It will expand when heated.
I tried titan. Here is prooflink. Using 0.5 mm it gave good results on printing with temperature 120 degrees Celsius. But as I had bit crooked plate, I had to stop using it. Needing to heat it up 20 degrees more than glass makes it pointless, unless using microwave. Try borosilicate glass.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have only printed on an aluminum build plate but I agree with Craig Anderson. I use Marlin RC6 (I really should update to RC7 but I am lazy and RC6 is working well for me) and the mesh bed leveling system. WELL worth the time to get it setup. I use blue painter's tape and I print in both PLA and ABS, but mostly ABS. I have very few issues with the part(s) not sticking to the build plate, actually the problem I have tends to be the opposite LOL! I started to get good, repeatable results when I switched to mesh bed leveling and then great results when I changed my first layer to be 200 % flow. YMMV but I print with 110 °C bed and 235 °C print head, use blue painters tape and mesh bed leveling.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've got a full frame i3 with a glass printing surface, and an Anet A8 with an aluminium surface.
According to my optical thermometer there is a 15 to 20 °C temperature loss between the bed sensor and the glass surface at 65 °C, which is how hot I have to run the i3 to get adhesion with PLA.
I have not tried printing ABS yet on either printer, but I cannot see getting the glass surface temperature high enough to give good adhesion.
I use dilute PVA adhesive as on both surfaces, but it does not adhere well to the aluminium.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use a 200 mm x 200 mm aluminum bed over an aluminum heated plate. It is attached by bolts in the corners. I use a proximity probe to run a leveling program and I print on the aluminum. I don't see where my bed is bowing or causing attachment problems. I run the leveling program with the plate at temperature (110 °C) and any bowing is handled by the software. It works very well with ABS. I haven't used much PLA and am still experimenting.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I have used glass from the beginning and it works perfect. (From old picture frame and old scanner)
I have tried glass with tape, glass with hairspray and have had very good luck on printing on both. Prefer hairspray :)
I have tried printing on the heated aluminum, but experienced the aluminum plate tend to warp due to temperature changes.
With a glass plate on top of the aluminum, you have a flat surface that don't warp. :)
So I would give glass thumps up!
EDIT: Printed on Glass with glue-stick. Wow. Sticks really good.
# Answer
> 0 votes
you could always slightly slot the holes on your aluminum bed so its not corner constrained and forced to bow in the middle..
My advice is use both and hairspray currently testing the effectiveness of insulation on the bottom of the plate
---
Tags: heated-bed, hbp
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thread-4228 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4228 | How can I charge an Android phone while it's controlling my 3D printer? | 2017-06-13T15:46:32.617 | # Question
Title: How can I charge an Android phone while it's controlling my 3D printer?
I am writing a G-code sender for Android, but I have hit a snag. How can I prevent the phone from discharging while it sending G-code to the printer?
I have several Android phones and tablets and they have a micro USB OTG connector, which I can connect to my 3D printer using an adapter. But it looks like OTG has this limitation - it can either accept power when in *Device* mode, or it can provide power in *Host* mode. So, while in *Host* mode the phone can't be charged, so I can't do long prints, which seems like an unreasonable limitation.
Any ideas on how to solve this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
See *elsewhere* on StackExchange:
You certainly can charge whilst in host mode, but some re-wiring will be required.
From the SE.Electronics link
> Apparently it is possible to charge the Host-Device! --\> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB\_On-The-Go
>
> Under "OTG Micro Plugs" it says that a USB OTG cable with a 36.5 kΩ resistor between Pin 4 (I suppose its pin 4) and Pin 5 allows you to connect a B-Device (Slave) and (!) a Charger to the Smartphone/Tablet. The Phone and the B-Device can be supplied by the external power source.
>
> USB-Power Specifications: http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass\_docs/batt\_charging\_1\_1.zip
and
> I just sifted through the docs because I didn't trust Wikipedia's implicit data on which of the three resistances I should use. Here you can find the official `Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement`: usb.org/developers/docs/devclass\_docs In this case you want 124kΩ, because you want the OTG device (=tablet) to be the A device (=host).
Here are the schematics:
---
Tags: g-code
--- |
thread-3456 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3456 | Motor driver chip install direction? | 2017-01-23T03:30:55.543 | # Question
Title: Motor driver chip install direction?
I got a new MKS 1.4 controller board and it came with A4988 driver chips. But I can't figure out which way they install. I found something saying to match the printing on the back of the chip to that on the board. But I don't see anything that matches. Suggestions?
# Answer
> 2 votes
From A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier, the rear of the breakout board, is identical to yours:
Note the two square pads for the GND, whereas the others are round. Now looking at the top side:
and note the position of the *square* GND pins/pads, in relation to the trim pot.
Now look at this hi-res photo of a populated MKS board
Again, looking at the position of the trim pots, one can see that the A4988 breakout boards need to be oriented such that the side with GND pins need to be nearest to the top of the board. That is to say the GND on the *corner* of the breakout board, needs to be pointing North East, as it were.
Here is a schematic of the MKS 1.4 as well, although it is not much use, from MKS Gen 1.4 circuit and pinouts:
# Answer
> 1 votes
I´ve seen some cards using A4988, and also I have designed my own cards and the most and useful pin arrangement is V Mot, GND, 2B 2A 1A 1B VDD GND, so stepper motor is conected close to 2B 2A 1A 1B.
Never place this pinout oposite side to stepper connectors. Stepper connector are marked as X, Y, Z, E0, E1.
The assembly picture from Ali express is correct.
# Answer
> 0 votes
The below image was taken from their AliExpress shop page.
Unfortunately, I don't manage to find the datasheet or schematic to give more technical advice.
---
Tags: stepper-driver
--- |
thread-4216 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4216 | Z-axis not moving up | 2017-06-12T01:47:10.257 | # Question
Title: Z-axis not moving up
I'm near the end of the build of a i3 MK2 clone and have run into a problem with the Z-axis motors. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up.
`M119` shows all endstops open. Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Using Marlin 1.1.3 with a RAMPS 1.4. Both motors turn and I've even uncoupled the entire X-axis carriage.
Additional test: reversed the z-axis motor wires and they only go up. Inverted the motor direction in software and they also only go up.
Any advice? I've definitely done a few searches but haven't solved the problem.
`Config.h` is as follows (clipped due to posting restrictions):
```
//===========================================================================
//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
//===========================================================================
// @section homing
// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
// coarse Endstop Settings
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
//=============================================================================
//============================== Movement Settings ============================
//=============================================================================
// @section motion
/**
* Default Settings
*
* These settings can be reset by M502
*
* Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.
*/
/**
* With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the
* following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the
* total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.
*/
//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 4000, 120 }
/**
* Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)
* Override with M203
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 200, 200, 3, 25 }
/**
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* Override with M201
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
/**
* Default Jerk (mm/s)
* Override with M205 X Y Z E
*
* "Jerk" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.
* When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the
* value set here, it may happen instantaneously.
*/
#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 2.0
//===========================================================================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//===========================================================================
// @section probes
//
// See http://marlinfw.org/configuration/probes.html
//
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.
*/
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.
* (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)
* To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.
*
* - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.
* - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.
*
* - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:
* - For simple switches connect...
* - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.
* - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.
*
* WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially
* disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.
*
*/
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN Z_MAX_PIN
/**
* Probe Type
*
* Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.
* You must activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.
*/
/**
* The "Manual Probe" provides a means to do "Auto" Bed Leveling without a probe.
* Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands
* or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.
*/
//#define PROBE_MANUALLY
/**
* A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.
* (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)
*/
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
/**
* Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.
*/
//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.
//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles
/**
* The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.
*/
//#define BLTOUCH
#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)
//#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
#endif
/**
* Enable if probing seems unreliable. Heaters and/or fans - consistent with the
* options selected below - will be disabled during probing so as to minimize
* potential EM interference by quieting/silencing the source of the 'noise' (the change
* in current flowing through the wires). This is likely most useful to users of the
* BLTouch probe, but may also help those with inductive or other probe types.
*/
//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing
//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing
// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)
//#define SOLENOID_PROBE
// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.
//#define Z_PROBE_SLED
//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.
//
// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.
//
/**
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be integers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Speed for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
// Use double touch for probing
//#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH
/**
* Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between
* probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.
* Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.
* Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.
*
* Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or
* lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)
* probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.
* Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.
*
* Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.
* But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.
*/
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING
// @section extruder
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.
// @section machine
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers
//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA
// @section extruder
// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
#define INVERT_E4_DIR false
// @section homing
//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.
// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
// @section machine
// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 230
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
// If enabled, axes won't move below MIN_POS in response to movement commands.
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
// If enabled, axes won't move above MAX_POS in response to movement commands.
//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
/**
* Filament Runout Sensor
* A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.
*
* RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.
* For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.
* By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out
*/
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#endif
```
# Answer
UPDATE: Turns out to have been a faulty RAMPS. Replaced the card and made NO changes; z-axis is now behaving properly. Thank you all.
> 1 votes
# Answer
This sounds similar to Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command) and My Prusa i3's z-axis will only go up. Please check the answers to those questions.
The usual cause of your problem is that you need to:
* install/configure the end stops, and;
* home the Z-axis.
You say that you have already installed ad configured the end stops. Have you homed it yet, though?
However, check your wiring first as it could just be a simple case of a loose or misplaced connection.
Also, something else to consider, if your stepper is making a grunting noise, and trying to move but can not, then maybe your stepper driver is *not supplying enough current*, or maybe *too much*. See my answer to Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?. Yes, the answer is for an extruder, but all steppers drivers can suffer the same mis-configuration.
> 0 votes
# Answer
If the carriage is moving in one direction but not the other is seems like a stepper driver problem to me. Or possibly a electrical contact problem as the stepper drvers have one pin each (pin DIR) to control the direction of the stepper.
Have you tried to change the drivers on your RAMPS 1.4? I suggest you temporarily change the stepper driver with an axis you know functions.
> 0 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, z-axis
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thread-4242 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4242 | Z axis issue with Ramps 1.4 | 2017-06-16T17:48:22.303 | # Question
Title: Z axis issue with Ramps 1.4
I just installed a Ramps 1.4 board on to my Anet A8. Everything worked as it should except for the Z axis motors. The Ramps board I have contains two headers for each Z axis motor.
When both motors are connected, one of the motors squeals like something awful. When I disconnect one motor it turns smooth as butter. I have tried this for both motors and when only one is connected it works as it should but does not with both.
Has anyone experienced this? Is there a simple remedy for this issue? Any help is appreciated.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Found the issue. The steps were set way to high. I lowered my steps to 500 and the steppers seem to perform as they should.
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Tags: marlin, printer-building, ramps-1.4
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thread-4248 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4248 | Why do I have to lower my Z axis steps per mm? | 2017-06-17T19:03:46.070 | # Question
Title: Why do I have to lower my Z axis steps per mm?
First, X and Y axis works perfectly, I measured well. I have plugged all jumpers, and use a very standard ramps 1.4 setup with standard Nema 17 200rev 1.8 motors and A4988 drivers.
For Z axis, I have leadscrew with 8mm diameter and 2mm pitch.
I calculated it should be `1600` steps per mm. Problem is when I call `G1 Z5` it goes to 2 cm. So I lowered my setting to `400` steps per mm and problem solved.
I don't understand what I'm missing here. I have used this calculator to find `1600`.
Where I'm wrong on the math then?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your leadscrew probably is a 2 mm pitch, **4-start** leadscrew. This means that there are actually 4 separate grooves on the leadscrew, each with a pitch of 8 mm. Confusingly, this makes the total pitch 2 mm, since the distance from one groove to the next is 8mm divided by 4 grooves. However, one revolution of the leadscrew will still move the nut by 8 mm. Thus, in the Prusa calculator, you should enter a pitch of 8 mm/revolution. Since you entered a pitch of 2 mm, you ended up with a figure that is 4 times too large.
The reason leadscrews are made like this is that if you just had a single groove with an 8 mm pitch, the nut would need to be made very long to enable it to make contact with a sufficiently long portion of thread. By increasing the number of grooves, you can get away with a shorter nut. With lower pitch (lead-)screws you don't need multiple starts, since the lower pitch means the same length of nut is in contact with more thread.
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For the relative advantages and disadvantages of the various *leads* (8/4/2 mm), as opposed to *pitches*, see also Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?
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Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, z-axis
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thread-4247 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4247 | Upscaling a reprap | 2017-06-17T14:25:58.920 | # Question
Title: Upscaling a reprap
I've been 3D printing for almost 4 years. Now that I have an M180, my RepRapPro Huxley is collecting dust as I only use it for flexible prints and ABS prints as it handles them better than the M180 does.
I was wondering, since everything is open source in it and hardware-wise most open style Y carriage bed 3D printers are the same, would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?
Since the carriage system isn't that good, I would replace it with solid machined aluminium rails and the heat bed would be made out of four Prusa I3 HB, which would only require me to add a PC PSU to power the whole thing and some MOSFETs to handle the load. I would be salvaging the board, the steppers, the endstops and extruder assembly basically.
Would such a setup be worth it?
Would the steppers have to handle more load?
# Answer
> 1 votes
**To your three questions:**
1. ".. would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?" - YES
2. "Would such a setup be worth it?" - Only you could determine that. It would quite a bit of work; but, if you enjoy making things it would likely be a fun accomplishment.
3. "Would the steppers have to handle more load?" - X and Y axis don't fight gravity so the the only force you fight is friction and accel/decel. If you keep with a low friction design then you will just need to limit the accel and decel to what the motors can handle. Regarding Z, this depends on your design, if you stick with the standard lead screw approach then the motor power required really isn't affected by the height.
Two thing to note about larger printers:
1. It takes a LONG time to make a large object. Make sure you consider this in the design as you probably won't be able to be there the whole time. Design with fire prevention in mind.
2. Tall lead screws increase the risk of Z-axis wobble. Make sure your consider this. You will need VERY strait lead screws. If you are going to capture both ends of the lead screw, use flex couplings.
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Tags: reprap, diy-3d-printer
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thread-4255 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4255 | Magnetic field around the printer | 2017-06-18T06:34:12.083 | # Question
Title: Magnetic field around the printer
I'm using a low voltage active screwdriver that is sensitive to magnetic fields.
It is weird, even I put a metal piece on the glass over the heated bed and check it with the pen, it lights fully. If I hold the pen on air anywhere nearby, it is weak but still lights a bit.
My cards and PSU are not mounted on the case. I also grounded my PSU with a small cable from `G` to `V-`. So, what could be the reason? Is that normal for such complicated devices? Just curious.
# Answer
The heated bed is a big PCB whose traces can act like a coil since heating the bed makes current flow through these traces.
By placing a metal object over it, you encounter a phenomenon called induction which will heat up the metal object (that can be the screwdriver tip) because the magnetic field generated by the "coil" of the heat bed.
Since these screwdrivers can be pretty sensitive the electrical current transferred from the heat bed to the metal bit may turn on the screwdriver LED
Also, stepper motors contain magnets and electromagnets which produce an alternating magnetic field when turned on which, by induction, can produce a little current in the spring inside the screwdriver which would act like a receiving coil thus turning on the led hooked up to it.
Try this with your printer on: put the tip of your screwdriver on your tongue (which will effectively ground it with your body) and put the handle over stepper motors or the heat bed and see if it lights brighter.
> 2 votes
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Tags: electronics, prusa-i3-rework, grounding
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thread-4235 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4235 | What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS | 2017-06-14T15:56:58.717 | # Question
Title: What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS
From my understanding, both PLA and ABS can be treated with acetone to make them smoother. So when they are treated with acetone, which is smother PLA or ABS or are they about the same?
When I search online, all I find is how to treat the objects.
# Answer
> 5 votes
ABS filaments will smooth well with using acetone, it's been used for a while now.
For PLA filaments it's a different story, pure PLA will not smooth out in acetone and it will likely only cause structural failure of the product.
However most PLA filaments aren't pure PLA, they contain additives including ABS that react differently when exposed to acetone and the reaction will really depend on the manufacturer of the filament, only a few PLA filaments are known to smooth like ABS when in an acetone vapor bath, it is the case for ColorFabb PLA filaments and it is absolutely not the case for bq PLA filaments that only soften and break when exposed to acetone.
You'll have to make small tests with different brands of filament to see which smooth well and which don't but if you want to go fast either go with ABS or use other smoothing techniques such as sanding + 3D print Smooth On epoxy.
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Tags: pla, abs, smoothing, vapor-smoothing
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thread-4272 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4272 | Scale down SketchUp live size object does not render completely | 2017-06-21T17:38:43.640 | # Question
Title: Scale down SketchUp live size object does not render completely
I got a life size model of a signaling post (trains) where I scale it down to 1/87 model (in SketchUp). When I send the model to my 3D printer (with Cura 2.4) some parts of the model are lost in translation even when their dimensions exceed the printer minimal dimension of 0.7 mm.
Is this a known problem of Cura or is something else at hand?
# Answer
You will indeed have difficulties with scaling a model to the point that individual components become smaller than the tolerances of your printer.
It is more likely a problem with your model, having been created in SketchUp. If you use an online model repair service, it will almost certainly return an indication that the model was flawed. Unfortunately, those repair services are not a good choice for repairing a SketchUp model, as the fail points are usually beyond the capability of the software.
Another option would be to load the model into MeshMixer and use Analysis/Inspector to reveal the flaws, but again, the automatic repair feature would likely destroy the model.
Even a program as simplistic as TinkerCAD will do a better job of creating a 3D printable model.
Consider to begin learning a different, perhaps more challenging program such as OpenSCAD or Solvespace, or even more challenging than those, Fusion 360. All of the above are free, while Fusion 360 has the requirement of non-commercial/hobbyist use to remain free.
> 3 votes
# Answer
**I don't think Cura is really the problem.**
I have heard a lot of comments that Sketchup often produces stl files that do no slice well (do to geometry errors). Scaling the model (especially by a huge factor like 1/87 is going to exacerbate that problem.
There are several things you can do to reduce the problem. Here is an article on how to 3D Printing with SketchUp Itt has some really good pointers. Remember that if you are scaling down, the minimums it mentioned will need to be much larger to account for the scaling.
You could also try using MeshMixer to fix and scale the stl file before importing it into Cura.
As @fred\_dot\_u indicated, the better option would be to move from Sketchup to a CAD program that works better with 3D printing. I use Fustion360 (and so does my 15yo son who learned it really quickly from YouTube videos.
If you decide to go that route, here is an article on how to Import your Sketchup Model into Fusion 360.
> 3 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-4154 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4154 | Servo vs Stepper | 2017-05-29T17:40:26.627 | # Question
Title: Servo vs Stepper
I'm a new one for this community. This also not directly related with 3D printing. I searched about this and I couldn't find good answer.
One of my friends told me CNC machining centers (Milling) mostly use servo motors and CNC laser cutter and plasma cutters use stepper motors mostly.
Position controlling is more accurate in servo motors than steppers.
I think position controlling is more important in laser and plasma cutters than CNC machining centers, but laser and plasma cutters use stepper motors.
Why do laser and plasma cutters use steppers without using servo motors?
**P.S.** This question has more area than 3D printing and CNC routing.And also, This question asked for more reason for why use steppers in laser cutters,plasma cutters and CNC router.SO, this is not a duplicate of this one.
# Answer
> 13 votes
Servos do have several advantages; but, they are more expensive and more difficult to control.
Generally, a servo motor is a DC motor but with an encoder to provide position feedback. A circuit (can be a computer) then compares the actual position (from the encoder) against the commanded position and uses the error to determine how much power to put to the motor (usually by PWM).
Some of the advantages of servos:
1. The encoders on the motor often have thousands of counts per revolution so they are accurate.
2. They are a great choice for controlling a large mass. When beginning a motion, the control loop can detect that more power is required when the encoder does not respond as fast as expected thus putting more power to the motor. This will them automatically reduce as the motor reaches speed and no longer needs the acceleration torque. Also, the servo loop can also apply reverse torque when trying to slow down the large mass to limit overshot.
Some of the disadvantages of servos:
1. The DC Motors used for servos reach peak power at thousands of RPM. That means to use them on a printer you will need to gear them down. This adds to the expense.
2. You need electronics to PWM the power to the DC Motor and to close the servo loop (usually at least 1 KHz). This can require a lot of the CPU. Probably would be more than a Melzi could do since it is already maxed out.
3. The servo loop tuning can cause the motor to buzz when it is holding position on an unloaded axis. This could cause print issues.
I know you have likely seen cheap servos out there often called "hobby servos". These are often used in RC. These use a creative trick that allows them to use a cheap potentiometer to create an inexpensive control loop. The limit to this "trick" is that it CAN NOT rotate a full 360°; thus, it CAN NOT run a continuous axis. Yes, I know there are hobby servos out there that are called continuous rotation servos; but, they do that by disconnecting the potentiometer. In that case they are no longer servos. This is just a way to use the same control interface to control a standard DC motor and the motors are not accurate.
Stepper motors on the other hand:
1. Are really cheap;
2. Don't require complicated drive circuits or control loops;
3. Love to hold position without a load.
Their downside is that their rotational accuracy is limited by the physical poles of the motor. This can be improved using micro-stepping; but, there are limits. Also, it is difficult (often impractical) to determine if the motor missed a step. That can usually be handled by just making sure that the load on the motor is always well below the step torque. This often involves managing the motor acceleration.
In summary, servos are great for some applications; but, for low cost situations like 3D printing, steppers are hard to beat. It is likely servos needed for milling CNCs because the cutting head is much more massive than an extruder or laser and the servo control loop is needed to provide accurate motion for the higher mass.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Servo is best when you primarily provide an exact position to go to, sounds like a human arm isn't it? However, number of positions is sometimes overwhelming.
Think about a painting, is it easier to draw point by point or just throwing the pencil relatively with instincts? That is why you need less computing when using stepper motors because they just step locally without worrying about the overall painting. Having said that, it is more costly for a stepper motor to travel far distances because it has to think about its every step.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The main reason why stepper motors are used is their low price. Small stepper motors (NEMA 17 and smaller) are powerful enough for 3D printers because the mass is so small. These motors generally require a maximum of 2 amps of current. 2 amps is small enough that control chips with all the circuitry and drive electronics can be manufactured as an integrated unit. The most common chips in 3D printers are the Allegro line of chips. Since they are so common, the price per chip is extremely low.
Servo motors could have a similar fully integrated chip, but the issue is servos need to be tuned for their specific application. A servo needs to be tuned separately for each axis of each model of a 3D printer (or other CNC device). This makes servos much more difficult to use for hobbyists in particular. If a servo is not tuned properly, it could oscillate dramatically or respond to inputs too slowly. The interface for tuning would probably be a serial interface, which would increase the cost and complexity dramatically.
Additionally, servo motors require an encoder of some type. Often it is an optical encoder, but there are also magnetic encoders and capacitive encoders. The cost of the encoder is essentially constant no matter how powerful the motor is, so when you have a small motor, the cost of the encoder is significant. High resolution magnetic encoders are $3 each in bulk. That would add a lot of cost to the motor, not including the other more expensive drive electronics. Optical encoders can be cheaper; I'm not sure of the specific pricing on those.
Ignoring cost, servo motors with high resolution encoders would definitely be better for 3D printers. I think we will likely see some higher end consumer printers with servos come onto the market soon. Servos would eliminate missed steps, potentially increase acceleration and maximum speed (depending on the size), and would reduce vibrations if properly tuned.
The answer given by markshancock brings up good points too, but I wanted to elaborate on the cost issue.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The basic difference between a traditional stepper and a servo-based system is the type of motor and how it is controlled. Steppers typically use 50 to 100 pole brushless motors while typical servo motors have only 4 to 12 poles.
# Answer
> -2 votes
Servo for spindle to control rotation speed of cutting bit. Stepper to control movement and tool position. All CNC machines.
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Tags: stepper, servo
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thread-4280 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4280 | Which 3D printer should I use to make custom miniatures for a tabletop game? | 2017-06-23T20:17:19.010 | # Question
Title: Which 3D printer should I use to make custom miniatures for a tabletop game?
I would also be curious on how I could get the best results with these printers. I am in a situation where I have cheap access to a:
**Fortus 250mc**, which prints in ABS and has a minimum resolution of 0.007mm (but that can be raised as high as 0.013mm to print faster), and has a "Soluble Support System" which enables printing overhangs.
**Form 2**, which prints with Photosensitive Resin, has a resolution of .05mm, and can also print overhangs.
**Stratasys Dimension SST1200es**, prints in "ABSplus" (whatever that is), has a resolution of .254 mm, and can indeed print overhangs. As far as I can tell the main advantage of this one over the Fortus is that the supports can be immediately removed after printing and don't need to be dissolved first.
I am okay with processing or finishing the miniatures later so long as it's not *too* time consuming (such as by running an acetone vapor bath), but I'm curious when I would use each printer and how I could get the most out of both.
P.S. Also the Stratasys is more expensive for me to print on than any of the others so please keep that in mind when answering :)
# Answer
> 2 votes
The Form 2 will definitely give the best results for your application.
Both the Fortus and the Dimension use *FDM*, which builds the model up using a bead of molten plastic. Because this bead is typically 0.5mm in diameter, this strongly limits the details you can print.
The Form 2 uses liquid resin, that is cured by scanning it with a laser. This process is called *SLA*. The laser produces a 0.14mm dot, and so you can produce much finer details. The Form 2 can also use much thinner layers (down to 0.025mm v.s. the 0.178mm of the Fortus) so the models will be much smoother.
To make small miniatures SLA is much more suitable than FDM.
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Tags: print-quality, abs, post-processing
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thread-4283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4283 | 3D printing bed size and selecting models | 2017-06-24T17:49:55.637 | # Question
Title: 3D printing bed size and selecting models
I was thinking of getting the MonoPrice Mini 3D v2 printer. I know the bed is kind of small.
How would I know what I could print from Thingiverse? They don't really state what the bed size should be.
Does the software fix this for you? Do you scale it?
# Answer
1. Yes, objects in thingiverse usually doesn't include their size and this can require extra effort to obtain.
2. There are several options to scale objects to fit your printer. You can often do that in the slicer or using a separate program like meshmixer.
3. The bed size is not the only (or maybe even primary) limitation you will need to consider when printing an object. You also need to think of your max height, nozzle size and for your choice of material your will need to consider things like you max extruder and bed temperatures (or even have a heated bed), nozzle type, etc.
4. You should be able to print just about anything on thingiverse; but, the limitations of your printer will affect HOW you will have to print it and whether you will be happy with the final product.
I have heard of plenty of people the have smaller printers and it was the right place for them to start. Having a smaller printer that performs well for you will be a much better experience than a larger printer that performs poorly.
Whether the Monoprice Mini 3D v2 printer is the best printer is something only you can decide. Read and watch the reviews, they can be a great source of "perspective". I know we all have limited budgets and there are certainly way more things you can print with a printer than you can without one.
> 4 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer
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thread-4291 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4291 | Convert an STL model to a two-extruder model | 2017-06-27T08:46:16.010 | # Question
Title: Convert an STL model to a two-extruder model
I have an STL file from thingiverse. The model is of a rectangular lid with an engraving. I would like to print it using two different colors, so that the engraving would be in a different color than the lid base. In the model description, the creator explained that he simply switched the material mid printing.
However, I have a two-extruder printer, and I'd like to utilize it for this printing. What's the easiest way (tool) to select a part of the model and define that it should be printed using a different color?
# Answer
After a bit tinkering, I finally managed to split the model to two STL files, then used Cura to print them each in its own color. I decided to post here the steps I followed, as simply as I could, hoping that it would help other beginners.
The procedure was quite simple, even though it took a while for me to figure it out:
Following the advice of this video, I used MeshMixer to edit the STL file I downloaded from thingiverse. I:
1. Selected the areas I wanted to separate using the select tool (I had to change the tool "radius" so that it won't keep selecting unwanted faces of the model).
2. In the same tool, I used the "Separate" command to create two objects from the one I had before. This showed the "object explorer" window.
3. I clicked each of the parts in the object explorer window and exported them separately to STL files.
Then, using Cura, I followed this site, and performed the following:
1. Loaded both models to Cura (order doesn't matter).
2. Picked Print Core 1 for the first part and Core 2 for the second part.
3. Selected both models (using the Shift key), then right-clicked and chose "Merge Models"
4. Profit!
> 1 votes
# Answer
You can also preview the gcode rendering layer by layer (if your software allows this), and insert a toolchange command at the layer where you want to switch colors.
> 2 votes
# Answer
One method is to use meshmixer to select the faces to be created in the second color and "detach" them without removing them from the model. Keeping the detached faces in place provides the appropriate alignment when brought into the slicer. When exporting the model for printing, check your preferences to ensure both segments are exported at the same time. The preferences (file) default to separate exports based on selection.
Some manipulation will be required with the extracted segments, as typically one is removing a zero-thickness surface from a manifold object. The videos I've seen usually create an extrusion towards the inner body to create a dimensional model from the extracted skin.
Even if you are not familiar with Meshmixer, there are a number of videos and tutorials explaining this feature. If you use the terms "meshmixer dual extrusion" you'll get loads of links in return. I narrowed it by adding "Maker's Muse" to the search, as his explanations are clearer than others.
I know that Slic3r and Simplify3D will support the correct positioning when importing the model, other slicers may require additional research to accomplish this objective. My search also appears to indicate that Cura will support such processing.
The rabbit in this image was being prepared for two colors. I've seen the video but cannot recall why this image was presented, as the other pieces were eventually incorporated during one print. It's possible this image represents a single color print, based on the supports, but it is indicative of a partial process during the creation of a dual extrusion print.
> 1 votes
# Answer
With OpenScad i would take the stl, and cut half of it off, but subtracting a block. That result I would save to a.stl. Then i would move the block to the other side of the model and subtract that piece off. The result i would save as b.stl.
My slicer is RepG. It has an option for merging two stl files and printing them dual.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-4305 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4305 | Unable to export all objects to a STL in AutoCAD | 2017-06-29T13:09:18.130 | # Question
Title: Unable to export all objects to a STL in AutoCAD
I made a pressing stamp in AutoCAD 2013 for stamping letters, but I'm having difficulties to save the file. I can save it anyhow in any format, but when it comes to .STL, some parts just doesn't show.
I made a platform on bottom (25x25x3 mm cuboid) on which I put solids as they represent my logo. But when I export, I select all, but it saves me just 3 or 4 parts from 7 total. On many occasions I get saved different parts, but never all of them or more than 4.
I am also getting the error while saving, which says: "the boolean operation on solids failed" and "Failure in face-face intersection merging algorithm."
Anything I try to do (even copy to another file and do there, doesn't help at all. But the irony is, that I just created a simple text stamp, for which I had no difficulties at all to save to .STL.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Based on your error messages, it's likely you have created a non-manifold 3D object. As a simple example, let's start with a cube as suggested in your question. To keep things simple, you want to add a cylinder to the cube.
In other programs, one would create a sketch on the surface of that cube and extrude the circle into a cylinder. Because the circle is constructed on the surface, it become an integrated part of the model.
If you had created the cylinder independently, which can be done in AutoCAD and placed it on the surface of the cube, the resulting model would appear to be the same as the one created above.
The placement method may have resulted in the end of the cylinder "penetrating" the surface of the cube. Such a model may generate the face-face error you've received.
The quantity reference you've provided in your question indicates that the problem is contained in more than one intersection.
If you have patience, you can return to the original model and attempt to locate piercings or penetrations and adjust the locations to be joined properly. Selecting a wireframe view may assist you in those efforts.
Another option would be to import your .STL file into a program such as Meshmixer to attempt an automatic repair. Under Analysis/Inspector, errors will appear with flags which can be clicked to perform a repair.
Severe errors in construction, such as the one you describe, are more likely to destroy the model when using this method, however.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-4308 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4308 | Does the Inverse-Square law apply with SLA Printing? | 2017-06-29T20:54:06.170 | # Question
Title: Does the Inverse-Square law apply with SLA Printing?
I was adjusting the position of our projector to allow for bigger prints to be generated. I encountered a problem that at larger distances, our prints are not seeming to adhere as desired.
Does the inverse square law of light apply to DLP projectors?
I am aware that the inverse-square law only is 100% applicable when you have a point as your light source. But I assume close to the same holds constant for other real world light sources.
Unless DLP projectors compensate for distance with their power output. Is this the case?
---
Cross-Post: @ Physics.SE
# Answer
> 4 votes
Yes, of course it does. The same amount of light is being spread across a wider area, so there's less light per area. Once you're past a few 10's of filament diameters, a point source is a highly accurate representation of most light bulbs. Even more so when there's a lens setup that causes the light to go through a point focus.
---
Tags: print-quality, sla
--- |
thread-1463 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1463 | da Vinci Jr. nozzle diagram | 2016-06-30T22:07:25.963 | # Question
Title: da Vinci Jr. nozzle diagram
Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle?
My first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, "da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning", shows the filament coming out easily when heated, but now I'm seeing that I should have cut the filament by the feeder and pulled it out after heating.
I have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through?
I tried pushing from the other direction with the large cleaning tool (as shown in video). I also tried heating the tip of the filament and pushing it to the jammed filament inside the nozzle and reconnecting it. It held a while as I tried wiggling it when heated but did not break the jam loose and broke off again...
What should I do?
# Answer
> 2 votes
After watching the video, it looks this is a Bowden style extruder. The extruder assembly is encased in the black box the OP mentions. The assembly is user removable. It appears they also include two cleaning tools
* Small (0.4mm?) wire to clean the nozzle tip
* Large (1.7mm?) rod for pushing filament down that is stuck in the cold end
It appears the OP tried accessing the filament in the cold end by removing the fitting at the top of the assembly without opening the assembly. Unfortunately that caused the nut holding the fitting on from the inside fell off. At that point he was in a bit of a mess.
I believe the manufacture's intent is to "ram" any broken pieces in the cold end through the hot extruder by using the provided rod and pushing while the extruder is on. It seems that it should work but would not be easy to do if the filament broke off outside the extruder (which seems to be the case).
At the point he left it, it would seem that he would either have to do surgery or replace the extruder assembly.
---
Tags: maintenance, nozzle
--- |
thread-4267 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4267 | Using a MakerBot Replicator 1 dual (or clone like FlashForge Creator) with Cura | 2017-06-21T06:21:13.097 | # Question
Title: Using a MakerBot Replicator 1 dual (or clone like FlashForge Creator) with Cura
I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.
I did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.
Don't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.
Here is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!
```
; -- START GCODE --
M136 ; start build
M73 P0
G90 ; absolute coordinates
;
; set temperatures and assert Vref
M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
M104 S{print_temperature} T0
G130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults
; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)
;
; home and recall eeprom home position
T0 ; home on the right nozzle
G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
;
; wait for heat up
G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
M116 ; wait for temps
;
; purge and wipe
G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0
;
; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
; Print time: {print_time}
; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
; Filament cost: {filament_cost}
; -- end of START GCODE --
```
# Answer
Thanks for everyone's help. So after playing around with the G-Code and trying to set the temperatures manually, I came across a post by a user who said that Cura will automatically include code for the temperatures regardless of your g-code. So I deleted the m140 and m104 lines and now it works great!
I am also going to take a second to rant about how difficult it is to find information on this g-code business. It seems that the language, which should be standardized, is different depending on the slicer that you use. What is the deal?
> 1 votes
# Answer
Edit: After looking at GPX more I'm not sure what you are doing? Are you trying to slice something in Cura and use GPX to make the X3G file or use the starting g-code from Cura in Makerware? The code you posted above is used in Cura to generate the g-code and it appears you should be giving GPX the g-code file made by Cura.
You didn't specify which error you are getting or where but if I had to guess it's from the information in the curly braces. Everything in curly braces "{}" is a variable in the slicer used to generate the g-code.
All the information below is useless to the printer and I would start by removing it to see if you still get an error.
```
; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
; Print time: {print_time}
; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
; Filament cost: {filament_cost}
```
If you still have an issue after removing that then you could remove `{print_bed_temperature}` and `{print_temperature}` and hardcode those values to something to see if the process completes.
If it's successful at that point then look at a different starting g-code and find those variable names and replace them.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Why not download Flashprint by Flashforge and try using it with your printer?
Flashprint by Flashforge creates X3G files, therefore not requiring the conversion from GPX to X3G.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Look at the Cura error log file for why Cura doesn't like your startup code. The log file is located at `$User/AppData/Local/cura/cura.log`.
The problem may be that one the the parameters included in startup code (the names included in '{}') is no longer available in the newer Cura or the name has changed. Hopefully the error log will lead you to the specific issue.
If that doesn't help, try cutting out 1/2 the code and retrying until you can figure what line Cura doesn't like. Crude but effective.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: software, makerbot, ultimaker-cura, g-code, replicator-dual
--- |
thread-4337 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4337 | Print not coming out good | 2017-07-04T16:20:08.520 | # Question
Title: Print not coming out good
I just designed a robot in blender, and whenever I print it, it goes horribly wrong. The first print was laying down, I had supports on, Then it started to print the arm, starting with the bottom of a sphere, and the supports caused it to fly off. The second time, I printed it standing up, with supports, and the arm didn't even print, PLA got all over my build plate. How would I print this successfully? Sideways like this?
I uploaded the model to Thingiverse last night, Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2417504
# Answer
> 2 votes
Based on your description of the print failures, it appears that the problem is not specific to the model. If printing supports is causing parts of the model to "fly off," there may be a temperature problem or a speed problem or a combination of the two. If you have a new filament type, it may be necessary to perform test model prints to ensure you are using good settings for the filament. If you are using old filament, it may be necessary to print test models with no complex shapes to ensure that your filament will still function properly.
You say that "PLA got all over your build plate." This is another indication of a problem not related to the model position or model design or orientation.
---
Tags: 3d-models, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4315 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4315 | What is the lifespan of a SLA Resin Tray? | 2017-06-30T06:35:09.927 | # Question
Title: What is the lifespan of a SLA Resin Tray?
As far as I know resin trays have a Teflon coat that allows prints to stick to the build plate easier than the resin tray but this Teflon coat wears over time.
I am new to the SLA scene and am currently troubleshooting a Draken Facture and trying to hone in my setting but my print keep sticking to the bottom of the resin vat.
How often should these trays be swapped out to allow for smooth printing?
# Answer
> 4 votes
It depends on tray and resin type you are using.
**PDMS**
If you are using PDMS (eg. sylgard 184) coating for your tray. (B9 and similar printers using this type of tray).
Life of tray PDMS coating depends mainly on:
* How long you print without breathing floor.
* How reactive is your resin.
You could get 2 3 prints up to 15 20 prints.
It is suitable for printing delicate pieces.
**FEP**
Large number of manufacturers using FEP.
Life of tray largely depends on.
* Thickness of FEP
* Piece sizes and movement speed during early layers.
Usually you could use same tray for couple of hundreds of prints. Optical quality is not comparable to other alternatives but without human error factor you could get almost unlimited prints. Delicate pieces require tough resin.
**Teflon**
It is halfway between PDMS and FEP.
There are other tray alternatives:
* Envision uses special glass you could print on average 50 prints.
* Carbon 3D uses super expensive oxygen-permeable window.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I did some research and the life of the resin and resin tray appears to be dependent on how you use it. For example, regarding the resin, 3dfacture states "We see almost unlimited shelf life of the resin as long as it is kept out of light".
I know you asked about the tray and not the resin; but, the two are inter-coupled to the same fundamental issue. Their lifespan is highly operational dependent. If your printer operates in an environment that have very low ambient UV, the tray will have to be cleaned less because of less resin buildup and replacement and thus less wear. Other factors come into play as well regarding cleaning procedures, usage amount, etc.
I think if you want a number you are going to have to run your own experiment in your own environment.
---
Tags: maintenance, sla
--- |
thread-4340 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4340 | fill in svg or stl design | 2017-07-04T20:17:13.317 | # Question
Title: fill in svg or stl design
This is a line drawing and I would like to print it a couple of mm high. I cannot figure out how to get this line drawing filled. I converted to SVG with Inkscape, used GIMP, took it online to TinkerCad and tried it with Onshape but all I ever get is just the line and this does not work well on my printer. What is a smart way to get this filled in and ready to go?
I use TinkerCad to convert to STL and that works fine. So I could also try to edit the STL in stead of the SVG file.
Maybe I should print the original scanned image (TIFF) and then fill it by hand with black ink and then scan it and convert it to SVG but that sounds really dumb.
**UPDATE**
I went back to the original drawing and using the bucket tool. The result is a rather noisy image and I need it to be sharp and tight to be able to convert it to a good SVG later on. Looks like it is more of a graphics design question now..
https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print
# Answer
If you don't mind adding another tool to your toolbox, you can use a plug-in for Inkscape called Inkscape OpenSCAD DXF Export that will convert your SVG drawing to appropriate code to import to OpenSCAD. Even if you aren't keen on learning OpenSCAD, once you have the code, press F5 for a preview, F6 for a rendering and then export the STL file.
The link on Thingiverse gives instructions how to add the plug-in (extension) to Inkscape, which is relatively simple. I've been using the extension for applicable projects with great success. Expect minor complications for closed paths within other paths, however. You may have to create separate STL files for those paths and use Boolean subtraction to remove the "holes" as needed.
The extension is slightly counter-intuitive. Be sure to manually add the .scad extension to the file as it does not perform that task automatically.
UPDATE: I have discovered that the above link is not the one I've been using. I'm leaving it in place as it may be useful to others to have the ability to create .DXF files from Inkscape. The correct one is called Inkscape to OpenSCAD converter v6 and works as described above.
As always, read and follow all label instructions. Do not operate heavy machinery after using this product.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Free 3D printing program NanoDLP does support extruding single image frame to 3D object in required height. You can use Windows or Linux version of the program.
> 0 votes
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Tags: 3d-design
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thread-4345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4345 | Using HIPS as support for PLA printing? | 2017-07-06T05:48:16.157 | # Question
Title: Using HIPS as support for PLA printing?
I have a question. I have a dual extruder printer and I want to try using HIPS for printing. Can I use PLA as my main material and HIPS for supports?
Searching online I found combinations of ABS + HIPS mentioned. No where is it mentioned that It can be used.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can as PLA is not affected by Limonene (the chemical used to dissolve the HIPS) but it is not recommended as the print temperatures for each material (~180C for PLA and ~230C for HIPS) are quite far apart and the PLA may not stick to the HIPS.
A better choice would be PVA which prints ~185C and dissolves in water but this material has its own set of fun issues.
\*Temperatures are estimates, different vendors may have different temperatures.
---
Tags: pla, support-material
--- |
thread-4332 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4332 | Is it possible in any 3D printing software to create a coiled tube? | 2017-07-03T15:49:00.163 | # Question
Title: Is it possible in any 3D printing software to create a coiled tube?
I've gone on quite a few sites (thingiverse, grabcad, etc) in search for a coiled tube, but I have yet to find anything suitable. There are a few coils ("springs") but no coiled tubes (i.e. the springs are hollow). Maybe my searching hasn't been good enough! But I was wondering if this is a limitation to 3D printing models?
# Answer
I managed to do it in the end using AutoDesk 123D.
Did it by making two coils of differing radius, then subtracting the smaller from the larger. I made each coil using the instructions found here:
So there we go...
Printed it out just now without supports - in the orientation shown - and it came out fine. Used a brim, though (don't want it rolling away!)
> 5 votes
# Answer
No, this is not a limitation. You should be able to create a coiled tube in almost every 3D design software package. However, how to do this depends on the specific 3D design software in use.
You'd generally do so by creating a cross-sectional profile (i.e. a hollow circle) and then sweeping it along a helical path. Another option is to first create a spring/coil, and then hollow it out (some CAD packages have a tool/command for this, usually called "shell").
> 3 votes
# Answer
```
// Openscad proof of concept
$fn=90;
linear_extrude(height = 50, center = true, convexity = 10, twist = -1000)
translate([10, 0, 0])
difference()
{
circle(r = 3);
circle(r = 2);
}
```
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-4346 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4346 | Prusa I3 starting print above heating bed? | 2017-07-06T06:59:00.280 | # Question
Title: Prusa I3 starting print above heating bed?
So I have been going through modding my printer and I have come across a new problem that I have not had issues with before.
My 3D printer will start to print above the heating bed even though it gets properly homed all the endstops. At first it was off by half of the whole Z-axis distance using Cura and off by 0.5 mm on MatterControl. Since playing around with random settings in both programs, my printer now seems to only be off by 0.25 mm from the heating bed. None of the settings appear to be affecting anything.
My guess is something both programs remembered was off and now it's been corrected to a degree?
Homed at endstops:
Homed to a papers width above the heating bed:
Here the printer has started to print and it off by 0.25 mm:
### G-code
MatterControl:
Cura:
```
M190 S75.000000
M109 S230.000000
;Sliced at: Mon 10-07-2017 01:08:42
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.4 Fill: 2
;Print time: 2 hours 18 minutes
;Filament used: 3.348m 9.0g
;Filament cost: None
;M190 S75 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S230 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F6000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
;Layer count: 381
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F6000 X96.660 Y119.366 Z0.100
G0 X96.978 Y119.129
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1200 X97.452 Y118.764 E0.00995
G1 X97.921 Y118.508 E0.01883
G1 X98.363 Y118.264 E0.02723
G1 X98.699 Y118.142 E0.03318
G1 X98.699 Y118.143 E0.03319
```
Further down.
```
;LAYER:1
M106 S63
G0 X111.565 Y151.164 Z0.200
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F1920 X111.415 Y151.002 E40.19917
G1 X110.919 Y150.231 E40.21441
G1 X110.689 Y149.702 E40.22401
G1 X110.553 Y149.385 E40.22974
G1 X110.226 Y148.153 E40.25094
G1 X109.962 Y146.354 E40.28118
G1 X109.635 Y143.890 E40.32251
G1 X109.603 Y143.683 E40.32600
G1 X108.787 Y143.726 E40.33959
G1 X108.787 Y143.930 E40.34298
G1 X108.518 Y146.454 E40.38519
G1 X108.184 Y148.175 E40.41434
G1 X107.746 Y149.645 E40.43985
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
Try setting your "First Layer Height" to 0. This should resolve the issue and will make homing your Z axis a bit easier.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, marlin, printer-building, prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-4349 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4349 | Effect of particulates on the viscosity of paste that is used to transport it in extrusion printing | 2017-07-07T10:20:29.270 | # Question
Title: Effect of particulates on the viscosity of paste that is used to transport it in extrusion printing
I am trying to find research articles that have data on how particulates(metal powder in a paste/hydrogel affect the viscosity of the paste/hydrogel. But I have been coming up blank in my last few hours of research. Is anyone aware of any research papers that discuss this and could point me towards them please? thanks.
# Answer
I found a journal article "Experimental study of the viscosity of suspensions" that looks like what you are looking for. Just like most journals, it costs to access it. Also, it might be available as Open Access; but, I was not able to figure out how.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: extrusion
--- |
thread-4355 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4355 | What are the basic requirements to make a 3d printing machine? | 2017-07-11T16:28:43.033 | # Question
Title: What are the basic requirements to make a 3d printing machine?
What are the basic necessities needed to build a 3d printing machine.
* Workforce
* Technology
* Money
* etc.
I'm an undergrad and my friends and I would like to make a printer for a project. We wanted to get an idea of the prerequisites for this work.
# Answer
This is a pretty vague question. First of all you have to ask what kind of 3D printer you want to make, what do you want to be able to print (size/resolution?) what tools/resources you have access to, how much you want to spend vs how much time you want to build. The more time and money you put into the thing the better your final results will be.
These guys built a pretty decent looking delta model for ~$170. Seems pretty reasonable. Deltas are pretty simple to put together and allow for a good build size. Building yours from scratch gives you total control over materials used, which means durability and price is in your hands. You will need to think about the following steps.
* **Research**
* Design
* Materials/Hardware (acquiring, fabricating)
* Coding/Software (choose a flavor)
* Troubleshooting/Failing
* First Print
If you care less about the experience of building and more about getting a working printer, there are plenty of build kits. These will give you all the essential pieces and instructions to follow. Prices range from \\$100 to \\$1000, from what I have seen.
Do some research in your region, if you are in a city, there may a collective or club where they specialize in this stuff. I know where I am in Portland there is a workspace where they actually give classes where everyone builds their own Delta model printers. Finding enthusiasts in your area can be a great way to get parts pointers, as well as inspiration.
> 3 votes
# Answer
It really depends on what you mean by "make a 3d printing machine"
1. You could buy and assemble an FDM printer kit. This is "making" in the same way you can "make" a cake. This is low cost and little experience is required.
My 15yo son built the TronXY X3 kit I bought for $200. . There are lots of kits.
2. You could design your own FDM printer from stock parts. This is also pretty easy to do with minimal mechanical experience. Its pretty much just 4-5 stepper motors (X,Y,Z(1/2),extruder), and extruder, some mechanical parts, a power supply. and off the shelf electronics. Parts are readily available on eBay and firmware is available on GitHub. There are designs available on the internet that you could start from. Here is a video one maker made of his build. This is how the whole industry got started and were often called RepRap printers.
3. You could try building or designing a much complicated style printer (SLA, DLP, SLS, etc.). This would require a bigger commitment with more experience.
4. ...
> 3 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, software, electronics, print-material, mechanics
--- |
thread-4357 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4357 | What's the advantage to deploy 3D printing on IaaS | 2017-07-11T19:10:49.157 | # Question
Title: What's the advantage to deploy 3D printing on IaaS
3D printing is becoming more and more populated during the last few years. But still, only a few group of people can access the 3D printer and know how to use it. So it is reasonable to deploy 3D printing on the cloud, so that almost everyone can access it and finish their job in a few steps.
Basically, there are 3 types of service on the cloud, which are:
* **Iaas** \- Infrastructure as a Service;
* **PaaS** \- Platform as a Service;
* **SaaS** \- Service as a service.
It seems we can deploy 3D printing on all of these models. But specifically, what's the advantage to deploying 3D printing on IaaS? Under what condition we should use IaaS?
# Answer
Most cloud models are based on virtual rather than physical services.
The closest thing I can think of as "IAAS" in the 3D printing space would be something like 3DHubs which connects people that have printer capacity with people that want to print.
The whole cloud 3D printing thing seem a bit questionable to how large/viable of a market it really is. I know there are a LOT of people out there that want to make money off of (or at least defer the cost of) the printer they bought; but, the market seems over-saturated. Heck, even UPS does it.
All the people that I know that use contract printing already have their own printer but contract out either for more volume, or a different material than they can print with their printer. At work we have a printer; but, we go outside if we want volume (hundreds of pieces) but are not yet ready to commit to a mold. When we go outside, we would only consider a trusted vetted supplier - not the cloud.
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer
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thread-4365 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4365 | Object got unstuck from printing mat | 2017-07-12T19:45:26.720 | # Question
Title: Object got unstuck from printing mat
So I was trying to print 3DBenchy on my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic, basic high quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.06 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 50c bed temp, 195c extruder temp). I didn't use any tape, just regular wanhao printer mat, which was installed on printer bed from the box.
At some moment when I looked I found things fouled up: object came off from the mat and sticked to the extruder and was moving with it. It printed like 3-4 mm of the object (about 50 layers) before this happened.
I would like to know what are the main reasons this can happen? And what can I do to prevent this? I think it's very sad when you lose many hour of work.
# Answer
You have to secure your print to the build plate.
One thing that I always do is to use a brim in cura. prints a single layer which extends in all direction away from your object, adding extra adhesion between your object and the print bed.
You can also use a slower extrusion speed for your initial layer but I would use this after trouble shooting everything else since you will be adding time to each print.
If you are using a heated bed make sure that the temperature is set for the correct material. For PLA i think that is 40C-60C.
We put down a layer of craft/school elmers stick glue before most prints. This helps a bit with adhering to the build plate, and also seems to allow the prints to pop off a bit easier.
Also be sure to double check you Z calibration and your bed level. If there are inconsistencies and your nozzel moves to far away from you bed, you will be extruding in air and not getting and stickage at all.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pla, print-quality, troubleshooting
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thread-4361 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4361 | How should I test filament samples? | 2017-07-12T16:01:13.023 | # Question
Title: How should I test filament samples?
I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed.
# Answer
> 4 votes
**Thomas Sanladerer has an excellent YouTube series called Filaween.**
In it he tests and compares filament using a pretty analytical approach. I think you would learn a lot from the tests he does. See what type of test most interests you and adapt them for your needs. Load your test into Cura and you can see how much filament they are going to use. If needed, trim them back a bit to fit your material limits.
Also make sure and also look at Thomas's new video Filaween 2.0 where he goes over the filament testing strategies he will be using for this year's filament tests.
If you want to see his results, he has created a HUGE Wall of Data of all the filaments he tested:
# Answer
> 3 votes
Select an STL that exhibits characteristics you want to test (bridging, resistance to various pressures) and print it with each material. Preferably, run the **same exact gcode**, only changing temperatures, so that you get an apples-to-apples comparison.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There are some simple steps you can write your G-code for that.
1. Filament should have accuracy of diameter 1.75 mm
2. Write G-code into file for next test case and run on machine
1. For continue extrusion 100mm at different feed rate **F50** `F100 F150 F200` up to the machine's maximum feedrate G-code for that
```
G91
G92 E0
G1 E100 F50
```
2. You have prime and suck parameter for your machine so test it. For example, prime and suck both are 4 mm and repeat last two line to continue testing
```
G91
G92 E0
G90
G1 E5 F100
G1 E1 F100
G1 E5 F100
G1 E1 F100
```
3. This test for continue extrude and wait for 2 sec and then extrude again, repeat following G-code again and again continue
```
G90
G92 E0
G1 E10 F100
G4 P2
```
4. Test prime suck with delay
```
G92 E0
G90
G1 E5 F100
G4 P2
G1 E1 F100
G4 P2
G1 E5 F100
G4 P2
G1 E1 F100
```
5. Final is print
In all of the above tests filament should not getting jammed and, for new material, temperature also may be a problem - so first set temperature for a new material.
Before starting test cases, clean the nozzle.
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Tags: filament
--- |
thread-4372 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4372 | Are there any non-static (ESD safe) materials to print with? | 2017-07-13T14:46:02.870 | # Question
Title: Are there any non-static (ESD safe) materials to print with?
I am attempting to replace an SFX power supply of my computer with a PicoPSU. I would like to manufacture a plate to fill the vacant place and to pass through the power lead, and maybe host a power switch and a 60 mm fan.
The thing is, I need to have a material that is ESD safe, i.e. does not collect static electricity. Meaning that the conductivity should be somewhere between 10^(-4)and 10^(-9) if plastic. And also a material that can take screws. So, a metal or some kind of conductive plastic.
Question is, are there any known ones?
If I will seek out to buy or borrow a 3D printer, I need it to support this choice of material.
# Answer
1. Yes there are ESD Compatible filament materials. One manufacturer is 3dxtech.
2. There are also filament materials that are even more conductive than that.
3. Pretty much all rigid filaments can "take screws". You can either have a hole that and let the screw self thread or tap the threads into the hole. A better option is often to press a threaded insert into a hole.
4. The bigger question is why do you need this? Are you trying to prevent ESD. If so, why, are there ESD sensitive components? If so, just make sure proper spacing is provided. If you are trying to manage electrical emissions/susceptibility, there might be better solutions such as a coating.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: electronics, print-material
--- |
thread-4382 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4382 | High-viscosity gel/polymer to suspend conductive material while it is being printed | 2017-07-16T13:13:18.313 | # Question
Title: High-viscosity gel/polymer to suspend conductive material while it is being printed
I currently doing research on 3d printing on circuit boards. The technique we are using is to put a conductive material, I.e ceramics/metal in a gel/polymer, to print the suspension and then when is complete to sinter away the gel/polymer. The problem I am having is the suspension needs to be thixotropic. Furthermore it must have a high viscosity i.e 500 cpa under low shear and to quickly drop to low viscosity as the shear increases
So far the closest thing I have been able to find is in this paper but if you look at the graphs none of them have a high enough viscosity and more importantly the drop to low viscosity under increasing shear is too shallow.
I have tried to use models like the ones in this paper but I am finding it quite difficult.
Does anyone have any suggestions to find more materials like the one I require? Thanks
# Answer
The material you are describing sounds very similar to the material used for Metal Injection Molding except that you want to print the material rather than molding it.
A company called MarkForged is making a printer called the Metal X that uses this technique of printing & sintering to produce solid metal parts. Here is a article describing more details about the printer.
It sounds really cool.
**If you investigate papers around those processes you may find what you are looking for since they are so related to what you are trying to do.**
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-material
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thread-4385 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4385 | Why do 3D Printers Suck? Please share your user experience | 2017-07-16T20:59:21.397 | # Question
Title: Why do 3D Printers Suck? Please share your user experience
I'm working with a group at the MIT Launch startup accelerator for high school and I was hoping to do some market research regarding some of the current problems with desktop 3D printers. I was hoping to get some feedback from all your experience with 3D printing and the hours of troubleshooting you've likely encountered.
What workarounds and aftermarket modifications are the most useful? If you could change one thing about your printer what would it be? How do you troubleshoot issues and how long does it take? What would make you more likely to 3d print more often (ie never clogged, didn't have to watch first layer, etc)? In your opinion, what are the biggest issues the desktop 3D printing industry faces? Just share any wishes, thoughts, hopes, dreams, etc about 3D printing
Thank you so much for your time and sharing your experience!
# Answer
First, regarding **"Why do 3D Printers Suck?"** \- The answer is **They Don't!**
Every tool has its limitations and you need to work withing the limitations of the tool.
Second, there are **A LOT** of different types/technologies, manufacturers, and price points and all of these have specific limitations.
I live in Tigard, OR and both my boys are in High School. Our High School has a pretty advanced Technologies Department. We have had a 3D printer for a several years and use it for printing parts for our after school programs (we have three FTC teams, one FRC team, and one (underwater) MATE team). This last year the school introduced a CAD class and added about 15-20 new Afina printers so that the students can print what they design.
I talked to my sons (they have both used the printers) and they said the only problems they ran into were mistakes they made. Two examples of that are:
* Printing with ABS and having it warp (probably bed temp)
* Trying to print a design with too thin a wall
I think there is a BIG opportunity for improvement here. Having a "Slicing" program that doesn't require tweaking and would warn of likely print problems would help A LOT. I like the idea of the new PrusaControl. If this idea could be extended further as Thomas Sanladerer suggested in his video review
I know the Head of Technologies Department (I help mentor several of the after school programs). He has been responsible for getting printers and I recall he was concerned about more high-level things:
* Service, Maintenance and Repair
* Fumes (this is a lot of printers in one place with students in the same room)
* Network interface and driver compatibility with school computer/network standards.
I believe there is another opportunity here. If you could provide some sort of a "printer farm" where the students could send their print to the "farm" and then have a highly visible indicator on the selected printer would their name/ID when their print starts. That way you can get more efficient use of the printers and the space they consume.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Among the open-source printer community there is a logically based, yet sometimes taken to inappropriate places desire to make printers "self-replicating" either fully, or more commonly "other than a few purchased parts."
In some cases this appears to lead to questionable design choices when some other process or material might be more appropriate to the job at hand.
Other than that (and sometimes influenced by it) the usual joys of getting the bed flat, the dimensions accurate, and figuring out the secret to getting the first layer to stick (with the sad realization that this may change somewhat with each new spool of filament - or even over the life of a spool of filament without taking extreme measures to keep it dry.)
In the "sure, there probably are packages out there if you have wads of cash" line would be structural analysis that takes into account the printing direction/layers and perhaps even optimizes that (though to optimize it, it would need some user input on what's most important, and that gets tricky with unsophisticated users...) or effectively a "smart slicer" that grasps where strength is needed and how to get it, without too much overkill.
On the reverse view, making something and having it break is HIGHLY educational (if treated that way) and that's nothing to sneeze at. But practically speaking I think we end up doing a lot of overkill to try to make sure that things don't break, with limited knowledge of the problems and limited tools available in the slicers.
Under pure pipe dreams (such as I understand the actual needs of the process) some type of easier recycling would be nice, as the various things needing to be sorted out lead to a LOT of scrap parts, at least at first.
And moving from scrap to "really annoying scrap" - nozzle drool. It's not hands-off on most printers I'm familiar with (which isn't many.)
> 3 votes
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Tags: desktop-printer
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thread-4236 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4236 | First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears | 2017-06-14T22:23:42.443 | # Question
Title: First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears
I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer.
Any ideas on how to solve this?
* Printing PLA at 210°C;
* First layer temp is 225°C;
* Bed temp at 60°C;
* 1.75 mm filament, and;
* 0.4 mm nozzle.
Maker Select V2.1, using Cura to slice.
# Answer
**Step Zero:** is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the first layer, it's hard to ever get first layer settings that work.
**Step One:** is to adjust your first layer settings - height, temperature, extrusion width until you find a set that work for your setup (knowing that they may change somewhat when you change filament.) Some folks find more success with thin first layers, others with a thicker first layer to pump more plastic, still others use the same layer height but increase the width to pump more plastic, and others combine these approaches. Increasing the temperature is common, though in my case I found that the "usual" +5°C was not enough for the present setup.
You can change one setting at a time and have an idea of what works better or worse in each case, or you can change lots of settings and hope you get lucky. I prefer the tedious approach, it's less maddening.
Are you using any surface treatment on the bed? A bit of gluestick or hairspray may help you stick.
> 2 votes
# Answer
The solution was moving to a glass bed with AquaNet for adhesion, and discovered a partial clog that was causing under extrusion.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Check if you have fan turned on for 1st layers. **Cooling fan must be turned off for initial layers**. That's a mistake I've made.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I would ramp back on both temperatures. My personal "sweet point" is closer to 50° bed and 195° hotend for PLA. Typically the problem of extruded material getting stuck to the hotend occurs because the extruded material is not adhering well to the bed. In your case it may simply be, as Ecnerwal suggests, nonoptimal Z-height adjustment. Or it may be that the PLA isn't cooling quickly enough to adhere well, and thus is being "dragged" along with the extruded feed.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Try lowering your first layer temp to 205°C, and apply a gluestick to the bed before you print anything. By lowering the temp, this allows th plastic to cool faster, and doesn't risk the plastic sticking to the nozzle as much. Applying the glue stick will help the print to stick to the buildplate better, lowering the risk of it getting stuck to the nozzle. You might also want to try using a raft, as this will provide more surface area for the print to stick to the bed with, and lower the chances of it attaching to the nozzle.
> -2 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-3750 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3750 | Tronxy printers | 2017-03-16T14:57:18.373 | # Question
Title: Tronxy printers
I am wanting to buy a 3D printer to add to my shop.
I am an engineer and enjoy making/building things so the kit idea sounds fun and economical.
I see Tronxy has two different styles for their larger printers:
* P802 (reprap frame) style
* X3 (metal frame) style.
As far as I can see, both printers have the same basic resolution, accuracy, and material specs.
1. What are the advantages/disadvantages/differences between the P802 and X3?
2. How important is auto-leveling?
# Answer
**I ended up buying a TronXY X3 and have had it several months.**
**I have seen several videos on the P802 and the X3 so I believe I can answer this question fairly.**
**Here is what the two printers look like**
**P802**
**X3**
**Here is a comparison of the features**
**Here are my overall impressions:**
* Both printers are kits and have their assembly challenges
* The X3 is often a little bit (10-20%) more expensive
* The X3 frame is very rigid. I have heard the the P802 is also rigid.
* Acrylic is not as durable long-term (it cracks). There are Acrylic parts on both printers; but, the Acrylic frame on the P802 would concern me more.
* The bed on the X3 can wobble and the P802 doesn't look like it would. (Note there are several available modifications to fix the X3 wobble)
* The Boden extruder on the X3 makes the filament pull consistent; but, it can make the filament more difficult to feed.
* The External Controller box on the X3 can make the printer more difficult to move and it can take up more desk space.
**The biggest negative (and likely a show stopper) on the P802 is the unprotected Melzi, Exposed AC connections, and no power switch.**
> 2 votes
# Answer
Auto-leveling is a great effort saver and a best thing in 3D printing in the last 10 years. While you can go without it, and many people do, it reduces the number of failed prints you will have at the beginning.
Properly leveled bed allows you to print without using any adhesive in it, improves you performance with ABS and other stubborn things. Don't skip on auto-level, especially if you are a beginner.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, hardware, resolution, tronxy-x3, tronxy-p802
--- |
thread-4397 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4397 | Mechanics for modelling a push button latch spring | 2017-07-18T13:27:42.120 | # Question
Title: Mechanics for modelling a push button latch spring
I am designing a door to put on a small enclosure that will open and close upon pressing a button. The idea is something similar to what you would find on an external DVD reader. My problem is with the actual button I understand I will need to use springs for this but I can not figure out the mechanics of the button.
Are there 3D-printable, mechanical designs that could fit for this purpose?
# Answer
> 10 votes
A commonly seen method to provide spring action in a 3D printed model is to use a series of curved and straight segments. Some of the designs use the segment assembly in compression, aligned with the plane of the print, while others use the segment assembly for springiness perpendicular to the plane of the print.
An example of the latter is a squishy turtle from Thingiverse resulting in four legs that provide some bounce to the turtle if dropped from a small height. This video shows the movement of the legs more clearly, as there were no suitable still photos available on the site.
The image below shows another spring type print from Thingiverse in which the forces are in line with the print plane.
The S-curves cannot be too thick or movement will be severely limited, and too thin means impossible to print and possibly reduced lifespan.
Many designs abound with a search of the 'net for "3D printed springs."
---
Tags: 3d-design
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thread-3973 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3973 | Pronterface won't connect to my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus | 2017-05-01T13:36:59.920 | # Question
Title: Pronterface won't connect to my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus
For the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I have to upload data to the 3D printer from a software called Arduino and then close it. Then I open Pronterface and put in the right port and baud rate that is in the Arduino files and then click "connect". Afterwards it says
```
connecting...
```
and that is all it does and doesn't fully connect to the printer. I've tried changing the baud rate and port in Pronterface, Arduino and the bit rate in the Device Manager but nothing works.
Any suggestions on how to fix this?
# Answer
I know this is coming very late, but I'll post anyway in hopes that it may help somebody else experiencing the same frustration.
I received all of the same suggestions again and again on the forums -- about baud rate, COM ports, and a lot else which failed to get Pronterface to connect.
At last I posted to the Anycubic User Group on FB, and quickly received what was in my case the solution -- and so ridiculously simple.
I was told to hit RESET two or three times on Pronterface after hitting CONNECT. Yup, that did it!
Good luck!! :D
> 2 votes
# Answer
I know this may be a little late, but I bought the same printer and found that I had problems also. To fix this connection issue I first made sure I had no arduino programs open that were trying the connect to the printer. These would not allow Pronterface to connect to my printer. Then if I still had issues I opened up task manager on my computer just to make sure I had no other programs trying to communicate with the printer. Then if it still can't connect I closed Pronterface and reloaded it a couple of times.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Only one application can access the Arduino Mega board, via the COM port, at a time. Sometimes, the software can get confused, and keep hold of the COM port, although this is unusual.
For example, if you are connected to your board via Pronterface, and without clicking on Pronterface's Disconnect button first, you then try to upload some code to the Arduino via the Arduino IDE, the Arduino IDE will just sit there complaining that it can not connect - usually with an error, or a timeout message, like this:
```
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
```
See the video tutorial, #18: Calibration, by BuildA3DPrinter. It is a long video, but extremely informative. At 2:20 he has this exact problem. In fact, throughout the video, the instructor *constantly* reminds the viewer to disconnect from Pronterface *before* attempting to upload new firmware via the Arduino IDE.
Now, I know that this is the opposite of your issue, as your can not connect using Pronterface, after using the Arduino IDE, as opposed to the other way around, as shown in the video. However, the solution is most probably the same... Momentarily, disconnect the Arduino board from the USB (i.e. unplug the USB cable for a few seconds and then reconnect it). Then, *without* using the Arduino IDE, now try to connect Pronterface. It should now work - assuming that you have selected the correct COM port, baud rate etc.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I recently purchased and assembled the Anycubic Kossel Delta printer and ran into the same issues.
I found that if I tried to connect with "COM 1" first, it would error out, then when I switched to "COM 4" (the correct port), it connected. Weird, I know, but it works.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, kossel, pronterface
--- |
thread-4401 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4401 | How do you know when your SLA resin tray needs to be replaced? | 2017-07-19T08:36:11.223 | # Question
Title: How do you know when your SLA resin tray needs to be replaced?
How do you know when your SLA print tray has lost its non-stick coating?
* Are there visible or testable signs you can use to determine it is time to invest in a new resin tray?
* Is it best to count prints and estimate?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Once the non stick coating wears off you'll notice degraded print quality over time and a more agressive sound from the print breaking free when switching layers as the print uses more and more force to break free from the tray with each layer when the non stick coating degrades. The good thing is this will not happen at once so you will start to notice telltale signs previously and you can lessen the wear at specific points of the non stick coating by using different parts of the build platform instead of printing exactly in the center each time.
---
Tags: maintenance, sla, replacement-parts
--- |
thread-1345 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1345 | How to connect filament end-to-end? | 2016-06-15T19:42:29.800 | # Question
Title: How to connect filament end-to-end?
Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament.
# Answer
You'd have to ensure that the joining portion of the two filaments do not "bloom" or increase in diameter, which would happen if unconstrained at the melting and joining time. Alignment is also critical, otherwise you have a varying diameter from one color to the next at the point of join.
There's an item on ebay which is precision drilled and has precision machined mating surfaces to ensure alignment of the filament. The filament is extended through the two components, heated (in the case of the video, with a match) and the two metal parts are pushed together. The joining of the metal parts also cuts away the excess bulge of the melted filament, ensuring correct diameter.
In the case of the above item, the joining devices have to be threaded with the filament prior to the joining process and then have to be threaded off the filament by pushing them the entire length of the filament.
This would be okay if one were joining short lengths only. Consider how much fun it isn't to have to slide these two pieces over an entire full spool of filament.
A split device which would enable one to un-latch or otherwise open a clamshell to release the filament would require much more challenging machining to achieve the necessary precision, which is probably why we don't see such a product.
> 5 votes
# Answer
There is a device which can do what fred\_dot\_u describes in his otherwise explanatorily good answer: the easywelder, made by I3D Inno.
It fixes the filament in a separate part so that the faces are adjoined perpendicularly and then heats the joint electrically with a device that at first sight reminds me of a hair straightening iron.
I am not sure about the joint quality this machine produces, but I am skeptical whether the it is good enough for high accuracy 3d printing. Especially if you take the history of the device into account (he wanted to create a custom O-ring from Ninjaflex), which the inventor shortly describes on this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Welding-tool-for-plastic-filaments
> 3 votes
# Answer
Here is a neat method I came up with: \- cut both ends diagonally \- insert them in a piece of heat-shrink tubing, making sure the diagonal cuts overlap \- protect everything but the overlap with Kapton tape \- heat the overlap with a heat gun. \- you will need to monitor and experiment with the temperature. too much heat will deform and bubble the filament, too less heat will result in a poor join \- use a multimiter with temperature probe.
How it works ?
The heat shrink tubing encloses the filament ends and also pushes them together when it shrinks. The diagonal cuts increase the joint area. Results are super strong and seamless joints. You might need to do a little sanding until you establish the right temperature for your setup.
I made a video how to do it : https://youtu.be/eJeU9lXiQPE
> 1 votes
# Answer
I haven't tried this but it is something I have thought about. The simplest way to try this that I could think of was to try cutting the ends flat and then using a soldering iron or just the printers printing nozzle to melt the ends and then quickly press them together, then you could sand the filamelt to try and clean up the join.
I think what would work better than trying to get the width perfect would be to make sure your printer is doing infill when it hits the join so over or under extrusion wont matter as much or have the printer move to the side of the print and extrude in thin air while getting past the join. I have done this when swapping filaments during a print by pausing the printer, and changing the filament.
> 0 votes
# Answer
idea is good and i know for sure many are working on it but if you want this to work smoothly you may need to fix the device (that is joining two filaments) somewhere near your cutter assembly (if any)arranged to cut the filament...this is the another way to perform the task automatically but you can do it separately with devices available to cut and join the two filaments together.
links below:
http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.in/2014/07/fuse-clamp-filament-welding-device-for.html
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, extruder, extrusion
--- |
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