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thread-421 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/421 | Chocolate printing | 2016-01-31T20:58:17.587 | # Question
Title: Chocolate printing
I have seen lots of printers that print chocolate using a syringe with molten chocolate. But, even cooler, would it be possible to print chocolate using some kind of feed system for **continuous** chocolate printing, so large objects and for a prolonged time, not only lasting the content of one syringe with molten chocolate ?
Things to consider are IMO:
* How to keep the chocolate long enough in a molten, viscous state enough to print ?
* Chocolate needs a tempering temperature, which means it needs to be around 32-37 degrees celsius, else it doesn't shine but gets a dull look (or turns white after a while).
* Chocolate is food, so you need foodsave equipment in the whole chain that is in contact with the chocolate.
Maybe a peristaltic pump that keeps pumping the molten chocolate to the extruder, which might be a valve that can be open/closed from G-code ?
# Answer
> 11 votes
Update: I found a nice article about chocolate printing: https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/
---
You are searching for chocolate extruder. I did not find one, which would fulfill all your requirements. You have to adapt each solution.
## Zmorph3d Liquid paste extruder
According video on the page you insert chocolate in liquid form. That could be solved with heated chocolate container.
## Syringe based extruders
You can use a 2 liters syringe. And if this is not enough then you can refill during print.
## Convert pellet extruder
Printing from chocolate pellets is simpler then printing from plastic pellets. Therefore if you use foodsave parts to build such a extruder then this is useable for you.
## Cooling
## Shop
by Open-Electronics
# Answer
> 0 votes
I would look into what Hershey did for this chocolate printer in junction with 3ds. Behold state of the art Chocolate 3d printing.. The CocoJett
That said there is little said about their tank system.
Far as the actual question it self. There is nothing to facilitate a large pool of continuous chocolate. It would be easy enough to build something that stirred the chocolate and a pump that feeds it in. At that point we are talking about a fair amount of new engineering. One could figure out how to map the E extrusion to a pump that would refill what was spent.
This section is just a bit of speculation.. I wonder. It seems to me that the way to go for XL coco printing would be powder. Bind it with an edible adhesive (hot sugar water maybe?). Have the printer refrigerated. Or just have a simple system that can change out the syringes of coco. Last you could just pause it while you change syringes.
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Tags: food, chocolate
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thread-3043 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3043 | Does the amount of figures on the board matter? | 2016-11-14T07:45:04.707 | # Question
Title: Does the amount of figures on the board matter?
When 3D-printing on an 20\*20cm, I've heard that the quality of the printings get worse if I fill out the board... Is it true? Should I keep it to small amounts at the time or doesn't it matter?
# Answer
> 5 votes
No, that's not (entirely) true. There might be some loss of quality if you print multiple objects at once, because when the printhead "hops" from one object to another it might leave a mark or ooze out some material. Also, a large number of retractions in a short period of time might lead to inconsistent extrusion.
However, none of this is particular to "filling out the board" as it happens even if you print only two objects at a time (or even when you're printing only one object with multiple islands).
It all depends on your printer (and in particular how well it handles retractions). If you're willing to do a small amount of cleanup afterwards (to remove the strings and blobs) then printing multiple objects at a time is completely viable.
# Answer
> 6 votes
This would depend on what type of printer you have and to some extent, the design of the printer.
Cartesian (i3 style) - Should not have any issues printing a full bed. I have seen designs and variants of printers where the designer did not make the belts parallel to the travel axis (placing the mounting point on the carriage higher/lower than where it come off the pulley/idler) so as you move closer to the pulley/idler the angle starts to change dramatically. While not extreme, this will introduce error in that axis.
H-Bot/CoreXY - Should not have any issues with a full bed as nothing is changing depending on hotend location. I know there has been some concern about keeping the gantry square on H-Bot designs due to the way the motors pull when moving in certain directions but I believe that applies to the entire print area. Both designs will have issues if belt travel is not parallel to axis travel as stated in the cartesian section.
Delta (Kossel/Rostock) - Have a varying axis resolution depending on the location of the hotend. As the hotend gets close to an individual tower, the carriage on that tower has to move very little to move the hotend which depending on your pulley selection could affect your print resolution. The sweet spot for a delta in terms of speed/resolution is the center of the bed. The center is not the highest resolution but is the largest area where the resolution is relatively stable. I've tried to summarize all that I could from here, but I've included the link if you wanted to read more about it or see the graphs.
Finally, as Tom covered. All three above will have issues with the entire bed depending on your hotend calibration and how well your printer was built. Delta's are fussy about build quality but you will solve most issues on a Delta if you level the bed before using any kind of bed leveling/probing.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Just to add to the other answers already here, I've also had problems with layer adhesion when filling up the print bed on an extrusion printer. The longer the print head spends working on details around a single layer, the more chance the layer has to cool off before the next layer gets started. I've started to suspect that layers that take longer to print end up with less adhesion to the next layer.
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Tags: print-quality
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thread-3047 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3047 | While filament loading extruded filament wiggles | 2016-11-15T01:33:13.743 | # Question
Title: While filament loading extruded filament wiggles
I cleaned up my Flashforge Creator Dual tonight, and loaded some transparent ABS prepping for a print. The filament extruded fine, then started to wiggle, then became fine again. Hot end is 0.4 mm and was heated to 230C. What sort of steps should I take to troubleshoot the issue? Has anyone seen this before?
# Answer
It might be similar to this issue (where teflon tube wasn't installed what caused softening filament inside heatsink)
Please check if your extruder is equipped with proper pipe inside (inner pipe diameter).
But the most probable cause is that a pipe had slide out so filament has enough room to get soft and to form such shape going out. Please take a look also here.
Here is a situation and its evolution. **fig. A:** 1. filament 2. teflon tube (well positioned) 3. heatsink 4. nozzle 5. extruded filament
**fig. B:** 6. slided out teflon tube 7. empty space (heat)
**fig. C:** 8. bent filament
**fig. D:** 9. teflon tube 10. no extrusion
**How it happens?**
Teflon tube is usually well positioned so everything is fine in most cases. Sometimes because of poor filament (not-constant diameter) or because of bends on filament, teflon tube is slided out os its place while retraction. It goes on and on, up and up (fig.B)
Once tube is extended that much so filament starts to bend in empty (heat) space (fig.C) It increases the effect of sliding out teflon tube just because of bend (it works as a hook). But it can still work. Teflon tube can even be pressed back inside the nest.
Now because the empty space is heat then filament starts to melt (for example when there is no extrusion for a second) it becomes soft. When filament is soft enough it doesn't extrude as the force to press it throught the nozzle is too high for such soft material so filement definitely stops extruding itself. (fig.D) This situation cannot be fixed automatically. There is a need of user intervention.
Now you know why some extruders has a rim (or collar) on the top of heat barier tube. It secures a teflon tube from sliding out.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If the filament displayed in the photo is the result of unimpeded extrusion from your nozzle, you don't have or have not described a problem. Filament extruded from a hot nozzle will react to many things. If a slight air temperature change is created on one side of the extruding filament, it will cool faster than the other side and curve in the direction of the cooler temperatures.
If there is a bit of old filament on the tip of the nozzle, it can cause the filament to hook back on itself, creating an interesting squiggle of filament before the weight is sufficient to cause it to drop.
A typical 3d printer problem is related to the results of a print or an obvious mechanical failure. Wiggly extruded filament is not a symptom of a looming failure, unless you have other indicators.
> 3 votes
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Tags: filament, troubleshooting
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thread-3050 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3050 | Printing a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing | 2016-11-15T12:51:23.607 | # Question
Title: Printing a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing
I've recently designed a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing. Now I'd love to get one 3D printed.
However, assembling those can be tricky and I highly doubt it's even plausible to print them. All the components themselves can be printed without a problem, but I'm not sure whether I'll be able to put them all together in the end.
What are my options?
FDM printers are probably out, although it would be great if I can find a way to use those. Would an SLA or perhaps an SLS printer be able to pull it off?
Of course the thing still has to work (move) in the end.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Two aspects of your question can immediately be addressed, one with much less certainty than the other.
If you were to print the indicated parts using PLA on an FDM printer and assembled as much as possible up to say, the outer bearing ring, you might be able to use boiling water to soften the ring with boiling water enough to get it around the balls. It's also possible that the deformation will effectively destroy the usefulness of the part.
On the other item, SLS is virtually perfect for this type of part. The un-sintered nylon powder provides positional support for all of the other parts being sintered. When the print is completed, the powder is blown out with high pressure air, freeing up the individual components as per the original design.
Be advised that there is to be expected some shrinkage of the parts which will affect any segment of the component that has tight or close clearances.
From Shapeways site regarding SLS printed parts (Shapeways)
---
Executive summary:
```
maintain a wall thickness of at least 1mm,
accuracy is 0.1mm,
always keep a clearance of 0.6mm
and parts may have a deviation of 0.2mm.
```
When designing something mechanical that has to be 3D printed or when adding a mechanical feature to your model there are several main considerations.
---
Also listed in the above link are the considerations of enclosed parts. Each of the balls in the bearing design may or will be printed as a hollow sphere filled with nylon powder. The bearing rings will also be printed as shells, unless appropriate steps are taken to make them solid.
By the same token, if a part need not be solid and can be designed with holes to "drain out" the un-sintered powder, the cost will be reduced accordingly.
# Answer
> 1 votes
How about using a dual nozzle FDM printer with ABS and HIPS?
You can use HIPS to print any support materials or any spacers that you need. The HIPS can then be dissolved using Limonene. Limonene will not do much of anything to ABS.
Similar ball bearings have been printed like this before. I am not aware of any reason this would not work for you. Other types of ball bearings have been printed in FDM with no support material.
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, mechanics, sls
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thread-3053 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3053 | Converting Injection Molded STLs to printable STLs | 2016-11-15T19:18:04.467 | # Question
Title: Converting Injection Molded STLs to printable STLs
I bought a 3D printer kit a few years ago, and it's been working pretty well, the kit was made with injection molded parts. -- It's similar to a Huxley, and through the years, it's started to turn into a repstrap as I've repaired it with non-printed parts.
The parts are all open source and the STLs are provided by the maker, but they're optimized for injection molding, so instead of having flat surfaces, the surfaces usually have a lot of extra support going on -- here's an example of what I'm talking about:
Mind you, this is one of the simpler parts. -- But mostly I just want to clean these parts up -- make the edges flat by "filling in" these gaps (because: 1. it will print easier, 2. I can let my slicer handle the infill for me, etc.)
Currently, I've been using mostly TinkerCad and trying to make little rectangles and other shapes and boolean union them together to fill these gaps. But this is a lot of work, trying to get it just right without covering up important gaps or leaving pockets in the middle of the part is very time consuming and error prone.
Additionally, I'd like to be able to make minor beveled edges so that the parts are easy to peel up. -- I currently do this with boolean subtractions of a bevel shape I made (again, in TinkerCad).
Is there any software out there that makes these options easier? -- What's the easiest way to fill in these gaps and add beveled edges? -- I'm hoping to spend no more than 10 to 15 minutes per part. (Right now, it's hours.)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Although the foundation of your question is aimed at getting an opinion, I find nothing wrong with that, as long as answers are provided with an equal foundation based on facts.
I'm a fan of Meshmixer (free) but it's not well suited for this project, in my belief (opinion) as it's primarily aimed at organic modeling. On the flip side of this point is the fact that you have a working STL from which to build. Meshmixer will enable you to extrude the portions that sit below the surface level and create a flat plane. You can also "bridge" the elevated portions into a plane, but only if you remove the lower panels first. Leaving them in place creates an unprintable model.
Of course, Meshmixer has its own learning curve.
Along the same train of thought, Blender (free) is suited for performing similar tasks, again aimed at organic models. Again, starting with your STL makes it less of a complication.
Unfortunately, in my opinion, Blender's learning curve is substantially steeper, as the program does many things unrelated to 3d printing. It has spectacular control over the model and if you are able to learn the necessary controls and sequences, there isn't anything you can't do with it.
Meshmixer is more intuitive than Blender and therefore easier to learn. You may also find it easier to find YouTube resources for Meshmixer actions than similarly for Blender, mostly because the phrasing of your search will be clearer with Meshmixer.
As an example, one would create face groups of your STL. Various segments would then turn colors. You select the depressed face group and say, "cheer up" then delete that group. Using the appropriate tool, which currently escapes my alleged mind, you'd then bridge those faces remaining after the delete. What was once a shallow pool becomes a flat contiguous surface.
I would recommend using Lynda.com tutorial material if you can find it. There is also a resource called Honeypoint which somewhat specializes in Meshmixer tutorials.
Not out of the question is to engage the free Fusion 360 program and use all those YouTube resources, among others, to import your STL and create extrusions and modifications you require. Our local library has an agreement with Lynda.com which provides free access to Lynda.com's tutorial library. Conveniently for me, it has a great collection for Fusion 360.
I've become so accustomed to manipulating models in the above software and other programs that I attempted to rotate your image to see the other side! If this is one of the simpler ones, you have quite a job ahead of you!
Be sure to use an STL printability checker program to ensure your resulting models are workable. Meshmixer has that feature built in and a couple online services will repair your model free. One service I attempted to use destroyed the model, while the Microsoft version did not, but created a .3MF format. That added one more step to get it reconverted to .STL, but the results justified the effort.
Good luck
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Tags: 3d-design, cad, repair
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thread-670 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670 | Which hotend does not clog and is good to use with a Bowden 1.75 mm setup? | 2016-03-01T20:19:30.800 | # Question
Title: Which hotend does not clog and is good to use with a Bowden 1.75 mm setup?
I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.
I have had four hotends:
* a J-Head;
* a full metal;
* a full metal made by me and;
* my current hotend which is just a block of aluminium with a plaster cold-end 100% homemade with no precision at all.
Believe it or not, this hotend is the only one that has finished a whole print (about 40 minutes), all of the others, with or without fans, haven't managed to finish one!
Well... this hotend has a 1.5mm hole so I guess that that's why it can print.
The problem with all of the others was that the 1.75mm PLA that I'm using clogged the hotend after two minutes.
Now I would like to buy a new, more precise, hotend. I'm using a Bowden extruder, can you suggest a good hotend?
This is my printer:
# Answer
> 3 votes
To make the suggestion of Martin Carney a real answer and shift things away from comments:
Yes, moisture and dust can be a problem. Find elaborations on the moisture here: Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment.
Also, dust getting into the hot end won't make extrusion easier. (link with suitable information needed). There are filament cleaning 'devices' for print on thingiverse, have a look at things with the tag: filament cleaner.
There are some other things that are mostly discussed in relation to hot-end clogging, which are printing speed, retract setting and what I would call hot-end resistance. For all of those, read through this thread and refine your question according to what you tried and what the results were: Repeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder.
# Answer
> 0 votes
To add to kamuro's answer, with respect to the dust aspect, the page Filament Not Extruding/ Clogged Hot-End makes a couple of relevent points:
> * **Dust collector not applied around the filament:** Filament attracts a lot of dust, which can potentially all come into the hot-end. In some dusty environments this could cause a clogged hot-end within a few hours.
> * **Clog from the inside of the hot-end:** It could be that a big dust particle is inside the hot-end tip blocking it from the inside. This can be solved by handdrilling the nozzle from the inside with a 2mm drill provided in our webshop.
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Tags: extruder, extrusion
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thread-3059 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3059 | Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers | 2016-11-18T15:22:54.970 | # Question
Title: Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers
My newly built ANET A8 has dual Z-axis steppers (and two threaded rods), but only an end-stop on one side. Am I missing some detail for ensuring proper alignment of Z as the extruder moves along the Z-axis? I notice there are mountings for a 2nd end-stop, but nowhere to attach this on the MCU board.
It seems that even after I check the leveling, there is scope for the two steppers to get out-of sync once the servos are turned off - is this something to worry about? I realise that during a print run, if I start with good alignment this should stay good.
I've only managed about 10 minutes of printing so far, and everything seems to work, but this is my first printer, so obviously I might have missed a vital step in the instructions quite easily.
# Answer
All the Prusa-based designs I've seen have only one end stop. While you are correct that it's theoretically possible for the two Z-drives to get out of sync, it's very unlikely in practice (barring serious friction, binding, etc.).
But even if it happens, remember that the endstop microswitch is only used to keep the extruder assembly from crashing into the print bed. The stepper motors do not have shaft encoders, or any other position sensing mech, so if they were to get out of sync, there'd be no way to know this.
The reason there's provision for a stop mount, on both sides, is simply to make the physical parts of the frame the same.
That said, it is important to check the extruder support assembly to verify it's level as you build the printer - "level" meaning both supports are the same distance from the screw-drive shaft couplers.
> 6 votes
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Tags: prusa-i3, z-axis
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thread-899 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/899 | Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm? | 2016-03-30T18:29:59.650 | # Question
Title: Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm?
I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative Y direction on separate runs of the same piece (which is just a poker chip I found on Thingiverse).
Is this a software issue (Simplify3D) or a hardware issue? Can anybody suggest a fix?
See the following photos:
# Answer
I had exactly the same effect when my stepsticks where overheated. So my solution was to add cooling fan and reduce current on stepsticks. Of course heatsink is obvious.
Please note that different axis requires different current settings. For example, in Prusa and clones, X and Y need a bit less current as one stepstick controls one motor but Z axis usually uses 2 motors connected to 1 driver.
> 4 votes
# Answer
This has happened to me in the past and here are a few things that I determined could have been the cause:
* Limit Switch triggered. My coworker was able to repeat the issue by manually triggering a limit switch during the print. Somehow, this seemed to cause the relative axis to shift on his MakerBot Replicator 2.
* Skipped steps. It's possible that, if stalled due to excessive load, the stepper motor could skip steps. I have a dual extruder, so if a part curls really bad then the second nozzle gets caught in the print. I'm not sure exactly how this works, but my coworker suggested this as an issue.
* USB connection. I had sliced a model and tried printing over USB connection, however each time I attempted the print I encountered the "shift" at the same exact location. However, using the slice, I exported a G-Code file and printed from the machines SD card with no errors.
* Slicing Engine bug. This is in correlation to the *USB connection* issue. I noticed that the issue occurred after updating my slicing engine. My solution in the long term was to re-install the previous version that was stable for me. I was using MakerWare 2.4.2 and reverted back to MakerWare 2.4.1.
If you're printing via USB connection, I'd suggest exporting to G-Code if you're able to print via SD Card until you can find a stable version of software for your machine. This has been the most repeatable solution for me in the past.
> 5 votes
# Answer
It seems unlikely this is a software or G-code issue, instead it appears your Y-motor is occasionally missing some steps. There are two possible causes for this:
* The current limit for the stepper driver is set too low, limiting the amount of torque the motor can generate. When the printhead encounters some resistance (for instance due to running into a blob on your model) the motor skips steps, resulting in a displaced model.
* The current limit for the stepper driver is set too high. The stepper driver will overheat and thermal protection will shut it down temporarily. Some steps are lost while it is shut down.
There are various ways to calculate the ideal current for a motor and set it using a multimeter, but a simpler approach is to turn it way down, and then slowly turn it up. Turn it up just beyond the point where the axis moves reliably.
> 4 votes
# Answer
In my case the solution was to use Slic3r instead of Cura. Cura has some issues.
> -2 votes
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Tags: abs, print-quality
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thread-3075 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3075 | How can I learn to create models for 3D printing? | 2016-11-21T23:31:38.203 | # Question
Title: How can I learn to create models for 3D printing?
I've recently bought a 3D printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on Thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids and a lot of very cool and functional connectors (there are some project for boxes with an iris tipe lid that can be printed already assembled as a single model). I'd like to learn to do some of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is:
Are there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question but found nothing.
# Answer
The answer to your question is yes, there are tutorials to help you create better models. Unfortunately, the back-story to the answer is beyond the scope of StackExchange.
Don't limit yourself to Blender, especially if you are attempting to create non-organic (engineering-type) models. Blender is great for curves and bulges and bumps (and animation, and so much else) but not so great for parametric modeling. Meshmixer is a useful program, but more organic than engineering.
Consider to search for OpenSCAD, Fusion 360, TinkerCAD, but also use terms such as "parametric 3d modeling software" to find a wider range of solutions to your quest. The above programs are free, there are too many paid programs to list even a small number.
Oh, yeah, stay away from SketchUp for any 3d print modeling. So many failure modes result from models created with that program.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I think rather than looking for a tutorial at this stage, it might be instructive to watch some videos on tuning and calibration (since these touch on what is difficult). Also download Cura (or some other slicer of your choice) and look into how your existing models would be printed layer by layer. Cura has a layer slider so you can step through the design.
So, to make an attempt at answering what I think could be a good question, things to research whilst waiting for your printer are:
1. Print failure examples and calibration;
2. `Parametric` 3D modelling packages;
3. Slicer operation (this ties in with calibration).
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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thread-3068 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3068 | Does a 5 axis 3D printer have any benefits over a regular 3 axis printer? | 2016-11-21T15:14:08.900 | # Question
Title: Does a 5 axis 3D printer have any benefits over a regular 3 axis printer?
5AxisMaker has a 5 axis CNC/3D printer combo machine. I understand what the benefits of 5 axis are for CNC machines, but are there any benefits for 3D printing. In this video they show the printer printing on an angle, but this could have been done with just linear layers.
Would there be any cases where a 5 axis printer would preform better than a 3 axis printer?
# Answer
One aspect of having this level of control with 3d printing of a model is the removal of the need for supports and the attendant post-processing. In the case of the model shown in the video, some effects are created by printing the continents in a conformal manner that would otherwise be impossible with conventional 3d printing. Cosmetically, the results of the "5d" printer are superior in this example.
There would also be some structural benefit for models with high organic content, that is curves and bulges, as opposed to orthogonal designs. Even with orthogonal designs, one can achieve stronger parts with cross-layered plastic in all directions, rather than being limited by x and y filament layers.
I see on the web site that one can exchange tool heads as well. One could print a 3d model, layering the filament on all the surfaces, then use a tool head change to a milling bit and smooth the surface under CAD control. Alternatively, one could use foam or wood and mill a model shape to be covered with a 3d printed material.
Considering the relative novelty of this product, it's likely that many aspects of the creative utility have yet to be discovered!
> 3 votes
# Answer
Slicing prints for printing in 5 Axis is not going to be simple with the current software. If you look at the web site for the 5AxisMaker you can see they are using Algorithmic modeling software (Grasshopper). You would probably need to buy this as well and then spend a decent amount of time learning how to use this software as well if you were going to try and take advantage of the 5th Axis for 3D printing.
I have only seen Grasshopper used for 3D printing and 5 Axis used in research papers.
> 1 votes
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Tags: axis
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thread-3079 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3079 | Not printing... wrong settings? | 2016-11-23T16:05:53.760 | # Question
Title: Not printing... wrong settings?
My printer is not printing.
I already had my first print but now it won't print. I think it has something to do with the settings (it's not heating up).
I am using Cura.
I load up the program and then save the file to an SD card and then put it in the 3D Printer.
How can I setup the program so that the printer's heatbed heats up?
# Answer
> 0 votes
I wonder if there is a glitch in the firmware producing this unexpected result (which I think I also observed).
If you navigate to `quick settings` you should find `preheat pla`. Selecting this has little obvious effect (except for fan speed droop as the heater kicks in), but the target temps will now be 190C / 60C.
`Print File` seems to wait for the pre-heat to have reached a threshold before starting to run.
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
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thread-3081 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3081 | What solder specs are safe to use when soldering wires to an Mk2a heat bed? | 2016-11-23T23:03:02.837 | # Question
Title: What solder specs are safe to use when soldering wires to an Mk2a heat bed?
I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed. I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack `64-008 E` 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter...
# Answer
> 1 votes
Old-style lead/tin solder has a melting range of about 180 to 250 degrees (the transition solid to liquid is spread out). This ought to be fine for the bed (even at the hottest hotspot) but wouldn't be good *in* the hotend.
Modern electronics lead-free solder varies since there are several different compositions, but is typically a bit higher in melting point (by some 10s of degrees).
Special high melting point solder transitions around 300C, but you would only need to use this in very specific scenarios.
# Answer
> 0 votes
That solder sounds like it should be fine.
Any solder should work, the only difference you might find is some of the older solder will include lead. if you were overly concerned about safety you might want to check your solder doesn't contain lead. However, for the amount you are doing, even a solder that contains lead isn't going to be an issue.
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Tags: prusa-i3, heated-bed, mk2a
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thread-1032 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1032 | Can a short-circuited heat bed be salvaged? | 2016-04-21T02:12:52.817 | # Question
Title: Can a short-circuited heat bed be salvaged?
I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat.
Can this be salvaged or should I toss it and buy a new one?
**update** the heat bed was not hot at the time. I had the heat bed unscrewed from the chassis but had forgotten to unplug the printer. I am not exactly sure how it shorted but I think it shorted between the power lead connection and the thermistor.
# Answer
What happend was short circuit of course. There is no doubt you overheated HB so copper detached from HB base plate. Because you wrote it doesn't work it means copper tracks are broken.
There is very low chance to fix it. I mean it - near to zero.
What you could do is:
1. Detach HB from arduino
2. Find a place where track is broken (which needs to uncover it from protective layer)
3. Connect it with a wire
Unfortunately even if you do it and your HB will work (electrically) your fixed HB which won't be flat anymore.
So definitely it's to be thrown away.
**\[edit\]**
I just realised you have double power HB, which means your HB has 2 heaters... which gives a bit hope.
take a look here
here is schematics which could give you an idea
You could check if your second heater works ok
If yes then you are salvaged! :)
**\[edit2\]** I really suppose the schematics of HB is more or less like this
So if H1 is broken there is a chance to use H2 connecting pins respectively
> 3 votes
# Answer
Yes, it should be possible to fix, although you might choose to replace anyway on the basis that the repaired bed might give you concerns about how long it will be before your repair fails.
You will need to carefully remove the protective layer to expose the heating element (assuming you can identify where it is likely to have broken). Then carefully solder across the break (maybe with a short fragment of wire).
After making the repair, you should cover the exposed track. This provides both electrical and thermal insulation. In the absence of any suitable high-temperature paintable covering, you could try using kapton tape.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-1217 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1217 | How to display images on DLP using HDMI for 3D printing? | 2016-05-23T07:21:07.830 | # Question
Title: How to display images on DLP using HDMI for 3D printing?
I am working on a DLP based 3D printer. I already sliced my STL file to multiple layers. Each layer is saved as a SVG file. Because its an SVG file, I can always convert each layer to PNG/JPG file if desired.
I have a TI DLP Lightcrafter 4500 module connected to my laptop using the HDMI. The DLP shows up as a second monitor on my laptop. I am using LabVIEW to control all components of the printer.
Question 1: How I can programmatically display my desired image file on the DLP projector. I would prefer to use Python or LabVIEW to display my desired image onto the entire screen of the DLP. Is there any way to achieve this on Windows? I also have the option of using Raspberry Pi + LabVIEW using LINX (http://www.labviewmakerhub.com/). I looked at nanoDLP (http://www.nanodlp.com/), which is a control software for DLP based 3D printers. However, I can't figure out how they manage to display the desired images to the DLP.
Question 2: Is it possible to display a SVG file to the DLP instead of PNG/JPG/BMP? If not, how do I know which resolution to use when converting SVG to PNG/JPG/BMP?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Q1: Printrun is 3D printer host software written in Python with limited DLP support. You can checkout how it display layers. NanoDLP directly talk to GPU through Dispmanx which makes it Raspberry Pi only.
Q2: Printrun supports SVG. To convert SVG (multi-layer) to PNG you can use ImageMagick cli tools, you should consider your projector resolution too.
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Tags: dlp, python
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thread-3091 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3091 | How to build a metal-based 3D printer? | 2016-11-24T20:48:30.587 | # Question
Title: How to build a metal-based 3D printer?
I have a hypothetical question. From which parts can I build a metal-based 3D printer and can I buy those parts somewhere?
# Answer
I think this depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the 3D printer.
I have seen people online build metal 3D printers from a robot arm and a welder this would probably be the simplest design and build but robot arms that can weld are expensive.
I have also seen that someone at MIT build a glass 3D printer by building a small kiln with a hole at the bottom and moving it around like a normal extrusion printer. This method might work for a metal printer as well if you could get the temperatures right. This might be cheap enough a hobbyist could do it as well because you just need the same parts as a normal FDM 3d printer just able to more more weight. But with the same parts you could also do lost pla casting and that would be a simpler approach with a better end product.
But probably what you would be really interested in building would be a laser sintering 3D printer. Where a layer of powder is put down and then a laser melts part of the powered to join it to the model. For this the main thing you need would be the laser. I don't know a lot about how these printer work but the laser would need to be able to melt metal so I would think it would need to be very powerful and that would make it very expensive.
> 2 votes
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Tags: printer-building, metal-printing
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thread-2997 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2997 | Slicer for "metal" 3d printer | 2016-10-29T18:08:57.780 | # Question
Title: Slicer for "metal" 3d printer
In my last topic I learned that Pronterface can control powder 3D printer provided that the slicer generate g-code for printer which is printing from metal. My question is as follows. Is there a slicer (open-source or other easily accessible), which will generate g-code that will be able to command the printer which operates on the following principle?
# Answer
Laser SLS printers (3D Metal Printer) software requirements are very similar to SLA printers specially laser ones.
There are lots of different tools which you can use together.
You can use Lasershark 3D together with creationworkshop.
Also you can convert your source file to SVG or image files, using Slic3r, nanoDLP SLC2PNG or Asiga Stomp/Sleece. And convert SVG or Image files to toolpaths using cad.py, gcodeplot or any other freely available softwares.
> 0 votes
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Tags: slicing, pronterface, metal-printing, printing-powder
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thread-3101 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3101 | Recommended settings for ColorFabb Copperfill Filaments on a 0.25 mm Nozzle? | 2016-11-29T01:19:32.740 | # Question
Title: Recommended settings for ColorFabb Copperfill Filaments on a 0.25 mm Nozzle?
I switched out my 0.4 mm Ultimaker 2+ Nozzle the other day for the 0.25 mm and started using a ColorFabb Copperfill 2.85 mm filament. I am having some issues with it clogging and sticking to the bed for larger prints:
Current settings are:
* Extruder Temp: 230°C
* Flow Rate: 110% (increased it from 108% get more consistent output)
* Bed Temperature: 70°C
I thought it might be a calibration issue since I could see it skipping certain sections and slowly collecting excess material on the outer nozzle, so I recalibrated the bed but I still ended up with a blocked nozzle after about two hours of running. Not too sure if there are other settings I need to take care of. Any suggestions would be great!
# Answer
It looks like a problem with feeding filament. It could be good to know if you did try such big printouts before but even if - from your picture it looks like on far end there is too less filament but on near end it's too much of it (because of 110%). And near the big circle it looks better even on far end. And there are "waves" close to big circle.
**How is that possible?<br>** Assuming that your extruder works well it might be caused by bending bowden tube. If your filament is not slick enough - in some settings (positions/arrangements) of bowden it might create enough friction so it doesn't flow with proper rate. It might be also caused if your bowden tube was bent too much (broken).
To be sure please try to print 4 smaller (5 cm in diam) circles on bed's corners and the one in the center. Just one layer of course.
**How to fix the issue?<br>** In my opinion you could try to slow down whole printout. Try to print such big circle with 30% of regular speed. I'm pretty sure you'll get proper results.
Try to check if filament goes smoothly thought the tube. Check if it has proper inner diameter. You can try to clean up a tube inside if it's not perfect clean or change a tube to new one. I know it was probably ok for recent filaments but maybe this one is more "demanding" ;)
> 4 votes
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Tags: pla, ultimaker-2, filled-pla
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thread-3084 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3084 | What causes the print heat to 'catch' on the part? | 2016-11-24T07:15:49.703 | # Question
Title: What causes the print heat to 'catch' on the part?
What would cause this effect, and how can it be avoided?
This is a PLA print, and it should look like this. I tried 215 and 225°C and both had the same effect. An earlier similar print at 220°C was not as bad but it still had some catching- it seems hit and miss and not strongly related to extrusion temperature.
Outside:
Inside:
I'm using a QIDI dual extruder printer with Makerware 2.2.2.89 software and these parameters:
Speed is 60/80mm/s.
# Answer
I think that you should first verify that you have the latest firmware and a newer version of MakerWare. I experienced similar issues around that version of MakerWare and remember a lot of print errors came with it.
I believe the MakerBot Dual firmware is somewhere around 7.? and is no longer in development.
MakerWare is also no longer in development as a standalone application and seems to have been ported over to the MakerBot Desktop. However I've personally found v2.4.1 to be substantially more stable than v2.2.
I have not tested it, but supposedly the new MakerBot Desktop (v3.10) is compatible with the Replicator Dual "Original". I had tried an earlier version of MakerBot Desktop and reverted back to MakerWare 2.4 because I ran into issues with connectivity. However, I'm not certain it was an issue with software so much as the exploding voltage regulator...
It might be best to give the new software a shot and/or try v2.4 of MakerWare, if you can find it.
Here's the link to the latest MakerBot Desktop
Here's the release notes for MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop v1.0-latest (v3.10+)
> 3 votes
# Answer
As pointed out in the comments, what you are seeing could very well be related to *lack of cooling*:
You may notice that the irregularity in the print become more and more pronounced the further up you see. I believe this happens because *the area that is printed is reduced gradually closer to the top*, which in turn will give each printed layer *less time to cool*. (The frequent revisits of the hot nozzle will not allow the top layer to cool naturally.)
This problem is very common when printing models with small cross-sections, and are typically solved by:
* Installing additional print cooling fans (cooling the actual print, not the hotend/heat sink)
* Printing several items at the same time (to increase the cross-section)
* Reducing print speed (gives more time to cool, but might not work for very small models)
* Reduce printing temperature
If you can, installing additional fans and/or printing multiple objects at the same time are probably the most efficient solutions - in my opinion. However, either method would be worth exploring.
**PS:** When printing PLA, set your fans to full. ABS, on the other hand, does not like cooling.
> 2 votes
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Tags: fdm, reprap
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thread-2805 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2805 | Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius) | 2016-09-20T15:49:55.283 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius)
I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance.
# Answer
Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do PID Tuning by running the command `M303 E0 S200 C8`. This will heat up the hot end and cycle it around 200C a few times, and afterwards tell you Kp, Ki and Kd values which you need to enter into the PID settings of your firmware configuration, or store them in EEPROM using `M301`.
If this does not solve the problem, then disconnect the heater cartridge and check its resistance with a multimeter. For a 12V system, it should not be higher than 6Ω (24Ω for a 24V system).
If the heater cartridge is okay, then perhaps it is a problem with the power supply. While the hotend is heating up, measure the voltage across the heater cartridge. It should not be much less than the nominal 12V/24V your printer runs at. If it is, you may have a bad MOSFET or power supply.
Finally, if you have a very powerful fan blowing on the hotend this can cause issues with heating up as well. Adding a fan shroud (or pointing the fan away from the nozzle and only at the print) can help with this.
> 7 votes
# Answer
There are software limits that might be set low by default depending on the software you are using. I know there is with Marlin.
> 0 votes
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Tags: pla, prusa-i3, hotend
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thread-3107 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3107 | One corner never sticks | 2016-11-30T17:51:16.927 | # Question
Title: One corner never sticks
I am new to 3D printing. I thought that the black surface of my print bed was supposed to keep things stuck without additional tape, spray, etc. However, every time I print something, this same corner, and only this corner, detaches.
Any advice on how to fix this?
* Monoprice Makerselect V2
* Hatchbox PLA
* Temp 195/50
# Answer
> 6 votes
This is very likely caused by an uneven bed. It's probably lower in that particular corner: the nozzle is further from the bed, so the filament isn't squished down as much and therefore releases more easily from the bed.
Your bed should have 3 or 4 screws that you can adjust, you should loosen the screw in the corner that is giving you trouble.
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Tags: adhesion
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thread-3109 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3109 | How to build my own Cura GUI? | 2016-12-01T09:39:40.763 | # Question
Title: How to build my own Cura GUI?
I am trying to create my own Cura GUI. I am constantly getting the error:
```
UM module not found.
```
Do I need to see a UI file?
I think I am wrong.
I've installed Python, pyqt5, numpy, scipy, but I do not understand why the constant `UM module was not found`.
I know I'm doing it wrong somewhere but I can not find my mistake.
I believe there are people who will help me. There are people who know how to do it. Will you help me? What am I supposed to do?
# Answer
UM could stand for UltiMaker. I think that you need to either:
* download Uranium;
* install the UM package;
* import the UM package, or;
* need to add it to your path (`PYTHONPATH`).
You may find your answer here: help needed: ImportError: "No Module named UM" in Eclipse #510.
The two things that you seem to need to do are:
1. Get Uranium from https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium.
2. Add the path: `PYTHONPATH=/path/to/uranium/repo cura_app.py`
> 1 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura, python
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thread-3113 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3113 | What grade of wire is required for the heating element on a J-Head extruder? | 2016-12-01T14:50:28.943 | # Question
Title: What grade of wire is required for the heating element on a J-Head extruder?
I have a large resistor that goes in my J-Head extruder. It's grey, and it came with the extruder. I'm uncertain as to what grade of wire I need to solder to it. It being one of the elements of the system that heats the hottest, I would think that it would be important to find out what sort of wire is the correct kind to use on it, since heating elements require a lot of electricity.
Also does the solder type I use matter?
# Answer
> 6 votes
There are a number of things to consider:
* Wire Gauge: a typical 40W, 12V heater draws around 3A. 24 AWG or lower would be appropriate (copper wire, CCA will require thicker gauge).
* Insulation: the part of the wire close to the resistor leads might get too hot for conventional PVC installation. Consider using silicone, teflon or glass fiber insulation instead, especially near the heating element. If the resistor's leads are long enough they might stay cool enough for regular PVC insulation, but make sure you insulate the part of the leads closer to the resistor appropriately.
* Solder: if close to the heater itself, the solder might melt. Consider using silver solder, or using a mechanical connection (ferrule/crimp) instead. Again, this might not be a concern if the leads of the resistor are long enough.
* Flexibility: given that the extruder (probably) moves a lot, use flexible wire (stranded, not solid core) and provide strain relief (especially near the connections, and avoid creating too sharp bends).
Finally, resistors have fallen out of favor compared to ceramic heating elements. Since they are inexpensive and solve all of the above problems (the leads are already attached and appropriately insulated) consider using a ceramic heater instead.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The physical size of the resistor is irrelevant. What matters is the total power (and in particular, current) the head will draw. Once you know that, there are plenty of tables on the web that'll list max amperage vs. wire gauge. When in doubt, use a larger wire :-) since we're only talking about a couple of feet length; cost is minimal.
As to solder: so long as you're not selling the printer, you don't need to meet any RoHs requirements. Use whatever you want.
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Tags: extruder, prusa-i3-rework
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thread-3118 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3118 | What is the purpose of asterix (*) in Gcode? | 2016-12-01T20:38:41.543 | # Question
Title: What is the purpose of asterix (*) in Gcode?
Doing some low level monitoring, the following sequence is sent to the printer:
```
N0 M106*36
N1 G28*18
N2 M107*39
```
This sequence just turns the fan on, homes the printer, then turns the fan off.
Question: What is the purpose of the asterix/star/(\*) and the two succeeding digits on each line?
# Answer
> 14 votes
That is a checksum. It's added by the host software to the G-code, to allow some basic verification by the firmware that the G-code was transmitted unchanged. It doesn't change the meaning of the G-code, and what your sequence actually represents is just `M106, G28, M107`. The `N0,N1,N2,...` are line numbers, and the combination of line numbers and checksums is used to request a re-send of any lines that were corrupted during transmission.
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Tags: g-code
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thread-3094 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3094 | How to build this part using 3d printing | 2016-11-26T16:55:09.137 | # Question
Title: How to build this part using 3d printing
I am completely new to 3D printing. I need to build a calibration plate, which I was told can be built using vero back plastic and a 3d printer. But I am afraid I need to know more if I give this to someone for fabrication. In particular, I am wondering how to get the white dots on the surfaces. My question is probably ill-posed, but I am trying to get as much info as I can before I consult any 3d printing vendors. Thanks
# Answer
> 3 votes
The photo is too small to be clear about the entire objective and there are no dimensions provided. A quick google search returns nothing 3d printer related to "black vera plastics" other than a reference to vera bradley, vera wang and an obscure reference to a woven black carpet with white spots of increasing size.
Even within those limitations, one can certainly print a strip of black with white dots. One method involves a dual extruder printer, enabling two colors to be printed, one layer at a time. The black layer would be extruded with suitable holes and the white layer would be place within those holes.
Another method involves printing the black layer with holes, swapping out the filament with white and creating white plugs of appropriate sizes for the necessary fit.
You've used the term calibration plate, which implies some level of precision. Is the precision related to spacing, dot size, dot color, or a combination of the above?
Such requirements may make the cost slightly higher, but not excessively. I can print up to to 290 mm long strip, possibly longer by going diagonal on my 290 mm print bed, with or without the two colors done simultaneously.
If you require crisp edges to the white/black transition, the holes-and-plugs method will give best results and require a bit of post processing. It may be necessary to ream the holes to correct diameter and sand the plugs to fit. Dual extrusion rarely provides sharp delineation from one color to the next.
# Answer
> 1 votes
What are the characteristics of the white dots? (That is, are the dots small raised bumps, do they denote where a hole will be drilled, are they integral to a piece-to-piece connection, etc...)
If these are small bumps that need to be added to the top of the black surfaces, your most time-effective solution is probably print the black component first (with placement references for where the white dots are to go), then switch materials and print the dots, and attach them to the black component.
Otherwise, you'll need a machine capable of printing in two materials simultaneously(ish). See some of the newer Stratasys machines if you have a good budget ha!
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-2678 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2678 | What are the long term material properties of VeroWhitePlus 3D printer material? | 2016-08-23T17:22:01.433 | # Question
Title: What are the long term material properties of VeroWhitePlus 3D printer material?
I have been 3D printing parts with an Objet 30 Polyjet 3D printer for about a year now, primarily using Stratasys VeroWhitePlus UV cured model material. In general, the parts seem to become more brittle over time, which I assume is due to the parts continuing to cure due to exposure to light. However, I have also noticed that when exposed to moisture for extended periods of time the parts are prone to warping even under little strain at room temperature.
I know that the material does display thermoplastic properties to some extent, but I was wondering if someone might be able to provide me with some additional information about the long-term material properties of either this particular material or similar UV cured 3D printed plastics.
The deformation of the parts in the presence of moisture, in particular, has me really confused, so any information about why this would occur would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In our experience, the parts will continue to cure. I don't have the chemical science background to provide proof or evidence, but I operate from an assumption that if the part requires UV rays to cure, it will continue to be reactive to UV rays after it is considered "cured".
I too have found the same brittleness over long periods of time. The only experience I have with the moisture issue would be a small component designed and built for a cable pulley in the tail section of an aircraft as a temporary solution (acting on a non-critical trim control surface). The aircraft is based down here in Houston, Texas where we get some pretty gnarly humidity. The part did begin warping after a few months but we don't have definitive information indicating it was a moisture problem, or something more structural.
I do know however, that if you aren't absolutely meticulous about cleaning ALL of that gelatin-like support material off of the part, it does wind up being more susceptible to slight deformities, and when you DO remove it all thoroughly, it is then slightly more susceptible to the brittleness issue. Not sure if I'm the only one finding this, and apologies for not having the chemical background to provide more quantitative support.
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Tags: print-material, uv-printer
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thread-3111 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3111 | How much insulation do I really need? | 2016-12-01T11:53:29.057 | # Question
Title: How much insulation do I really need?
I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation.
I have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets beneath the aluminium heater and then another 1.5 mm aluminium plate under those, to hold it altogether (source: Re: Is a cork board necessary under the heated bed?).
Hopefully this does not come across as a *how-long-is-a-piece-of-string* type question. I am just trying to get the right amount in the first place whilst spending as little as possible, and keeping the mass/volume and height down. If someone else has already gone through the empirical adjustments themselves, then it might save me the time and expense of having to test various configurations.
* Would just 2 mm thick cork backing be sufficient?
* Is 10 mm overkill?
* Does silver foil backing help considerably, thereby enabling one to reduce the thickness of the cork?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Since 50% of the bed is uninsulated, you're definately into diminishing returns as soon as you start adding any insulation.
With that area, I think you are looking at 1.2W per kelvin for a 2mm thickness.
I'm guessing a bit with these powers, but roughly, maybe from 100 W un-insulated, 75 with 2mm, 60W with 4mm. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of the power by looking at the duty cycle of the heating element.
Actually, its not clear if your primary goal is to reduce energy/maintain a very high temperature, or speed the initial heating. You can place a temporary sheet of cork on top of the bed (preferably extending over the edges to prevent convection) and this will significantly improve heat-up times.
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Tags: heated-bed, heat-management
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thread-2789 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2789 | M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged | 2016-09-17T19:17:52.940 | # Question
Title: M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged
I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep).
This works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point.
I tried printing at 200 °C with black PLA and then again at 215 °C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio.
I know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine.
What is causing my printer to stop printing?
# Answer
I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem.
There are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two "indentions" on either side of the filament, making it such that the rollers had no purchase on the filament itself. There was never any clog, no material feed error, but it was still failing to print. Wound up having to replace the head altogether.
Again, not sure how similar the extrusion mechanics are in the M3D, but suggest checking the components that actually advance the filament, and the filament itself.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Placing this suggestion as an answer, because all information appears to point to the slicer software and/or the operating system. Consider to use alternative methods of slicing and sending the model, such as the previously mentioned Craftware or other free slicers, such as Slic3r \- both of which have Linux versions. If, as you suggest, your firmware is so tied down that it won't run alternate versions without re-flashing, that would be your next step. Unfetter yourself from the limitations of the current suspect software.
If you are able to use other slicers and discover that the problem remains, the re-flashing of the firmware is likely the only solution.
> 1 votes
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Tags: pla, ultimaker-cura, octoprint
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thread-3137 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3137 | Printing objects with holes using M3D Printer | 2016-12-04T21:19:34.110 | # Question
Title: Printing objects with holes using M3D Printer
I am using an M3D printer and loaded an STL design with holes in the middle:
However, the output is an object without holes (so I stopped the printing):
What can be done to be able to print with holes?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Have you tried letting it print a few more layers? It is very common that printers use the first few layers to create a **raft**, which will make the model adhere better to the bed.
I believe this illustration from Simplify3D displays this well:
# Answer
> 0 votes
**Case 1:**
There may be an issue with the precision of the print nozzle, not being able to fully articulate the hole. That is to say, the printer is trying to print it with holes, but the material is filling in that area.
Try increasing the size of the hole. Granted, it is not an exact process but there may be an inner hole diameter that winds up mimicking the diameter you're looking for after the material extrudes.
This case could be rejected by nature of the printer depositing straight lines through the center diameter of the cylinder's base.
**Case 2:**
There may be some discrepancy between the file's appearance and the file's information.
If you downloaded the file from somewhere like ThingiVerse, try designing the part yourself if possible. If you designed it yourself, overwrite the file with a second version.
**Case 3:**
If downloaded, verify that the center hole is extruded though the entire thickness of the part. It may be that it's extruded most of the way through and there is a sealed bottom layer.
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Tags: slicing
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thread-3122 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3122 | Has anyone experienced scorching or burning of cork heatbed insulation? | 2016-12-02T11:05:10.800 | # Question
Title: Has anyone experienced scorching or burning of cork heatbed insulation?
A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator:
> Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate.
The flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C<sup>1</sup>, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used in the manufacturing process of some cork products<sup>2</sup>:
> For insulation applications, agglomerates of granules of cork, known as black agglomerates, are employed. They are manufactured in a closed autoclave at high temperature (approximately 300uC) and pressure (around 40 kPa) without the use of adhesive
In addtion, according to Why should we use cork?
> **Does cork burn?**
>
> Cork is a slow combustion material. That is to say, yes it burns but very slowly and it doesn't produce flame so it doesn't spread. Also, when burning, the smoke that it releases is not toxic.
However, I am not sure if all cork is equal, or whether the thickness of the cork can affect the safety. To give a definite figure, I was thinking of using 2 mm - 5 mm thick cork sheeting.
Has anyone experienced, or know of, any burning (or scorching) of cork, when used as a backing insulator to a heatbed, in particular, an aluminium PCB MK3 heatbed?
---
<sup>1</sup> Source: What is the the ignition temperature of cork? | ChaCha
<sup>2</sup> Source: Cork: properties, capabilities and applications
# Answer
The real fire risks with 3d printers are electrical in nature. Lets say your wires come undone and happen to come next to the other lead. If it archs and happened to be in just the right position. Pretty unlikely. Once I did a bad solder job and when I was working on my printer. The wires literally burst into flame in my lap. No damage done (other than needing a new board). That said we often see people who have their boards catch fire in the flashforge owner groups. Weak solder joints, and over all bad quality.
Do you really have something to worry about with Cork? No. A series of unfortunate events would have to happen, and more likely your board will cause a fire. That said I would look into adding a layer of aluminum and reflect some of that heat back up.
If you are that worried I would just remove the sheet. Unless you are having issues calibrating you heated build plate / PIDs there is no reason to use insulation. I only use it on printers that have a hard time hitting ABS temps of 100c. Even then I only use tin foil and try to trap the air underneath.
Just a side note. If you are having heated build plate issues maybe what you really need is a heat chamber.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-2909 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2909 | When leveling hotend always slams into bed? | 2016-10-17T15:24:18.113 | # Question
Title: When leveling hotend always slams into bed?
If the hot-end is at ~0 on the Z axis and I go to level it, as it approaches X = 0 it begins scraping along the bed, then when moving back to probe the center of the bed (after homing X to 0) it will scrape the bed again.
I want to add a glass plate but am worried this aggressive homing will smash the glass. How can I fix it? The printer auto-levels and runs Marlin.
# Answer
I realised the simplest fix for this shortly after posting the question. In either your slicer or your printer controller (I use octoprint, so I added this there) add to the starting G-code something to lift the head so that it is above the point it is scraping across.
For example, change your starting G-code from something like:
```
G28 ;Home all axis
G29 ;probe bed
```
To
```
G91 ;Set to relative positioning
G0 Z10 ;move head up by 10mm
G28 ;Home all axis
G29 ;probe bed
```
(obviously remove G29 if you do not have a probe)
10mm should be more than enough to lift by unless you have something seriously wrong, but you can adjust the figure as needed.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Marlin has a `Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS` setting that allows you to, well, raise the Z-axis before it moves to the next probe point. Increasing this value may solve the issue.
Auto leveling only compensates for skew of the bed, but it doesn't compensate for a non-planar bed. If your bed is bowed (apparently you're not using glass yet, so I assume you have a plain PCB which is quite susceptible to this) and due to this is higher in some spots than others, then the auto leveling may cause the hotend to scrape the high spots of the bed.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can always add to the starting code as told in an answer above. Also for the scrapping, you might want to set Z\_HOMING\_HEIGHT to prevent further damage to the hotend. If the Z axis is below the homing height, on homing x or y will first cause z axis to travel to the homing height and then proceed with homing of x or y axis.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Sounds like you need a different sensor? You have a lot of issues from the sounds of it. Also no code so cannot comment on your settings.
If it always scrapes the bed (sorry but its really unclear what is going on) then lower your sensor a bit.. Best I can give you with the provided info.
> 0 votes
# Answer
You need an offset to protect your XY movements for Z=0 even if the plate is planar or angled; for example my sensor is made for 10mm height from plate but measures 4mm due the plate is aluminum. The nozzle needs to be at least 1mm or 2mm below the sensor level. If I adjust the nozzle at 4mm or more this will be scratch the plate if any level variation on bed exist.
So I set an offset and Z safe movement on Auto homming, adding 3 or 4mm. When I press AutoHome the nozzle rise up to the safety level even if the nozzle is touching the bed.
You don´t need the Z=0 to start printing, when you Use the code G29 the printer will check the predefined test points to get the right Z=0 according the angled plate; if your plate is warped you will need a lot of test points but is much better to change it.
> 0 votes
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Tags: marlin
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thread-3159 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3159 | MINTEMP error after crash | 2016-12-08T20:56:15.760 | # Question
Title: MINTEMP error after crash
I just got my HICTOP Prusa i3 Aluminium frame printer and finished putting it together. After setting it to preheat, I realized the bed was not level - I adjusted it and accidentally caused the head to crash into the bed.
It sounded like something popped, and the printer restarted. It is now showing a `MINTEMP` error message, and both bed and hotend temperatures read 0°C.
The only visible damage is that a thin layer came off the printbed - After testing with a multimeter, I realized that the metal under this layer is connected to power. As both the bed and hotend were heating, I believe I may have caused a short.
Replacing the thermistor on the hotend with a spare did not solve the issue. I tested the thermistor on the printbed with a multimeter, and it seems to be working correctly (resistance value around ~200 kΩ at room temperature).
Which leads me to believe that I may have damaged the control board. What do I do?
Note: This is not a firmware problem as the printer was getting correct temperature readings before that. Also, I have a second extruder thermistor port that is unused. If I did damage my board, could I edit `pins.h` and `configuration.h` to use this port instead, and completely disconnect the heated printbed?
# Answer
> 4 votes
After replacing the control board, it now prints flawlessly. Apparently,I really did damage the control board...
---
Tags: reprap, hotend, thermistor
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thread-2702 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2702 | Materials testing of 3D printed parts | 2016-08-30T00:54:34.480 | # Question
Title: Materials testing of 3D printed parts
What parameters are needed when preparing to model a 3D printed part in (ANSYS or Abaqus)?
Are there specific tests?
**Update**
We have been using FDM printing, with PLA. Our parts are for a quadcopter arm.
I'm not worried immediately about having a strong part, I'm ultimately interested in modeling any 3D printed part. I think more important parameters are the printing parameters like bed temp, nozzle temp, layer height etc..
# Answer
As with all AM related simulation existing FEM codes are not well suited to solving the material addition issue.
It is very hard for the codes you mentioned to simulate layer-by-layer and toolpath-by-toolpath material addition.
There has been significant research in AM simulation, most of it focuses on the metal additive manufacturing processes. The simulation of the entire build process with complex geometry and material addition almost never occurs due to computational cost. For example this work is one of the most sophiticated simulations developed and it is so computationally expensive that only a single laser scan was performed.
If what you actually want to achieve is stress/deformation of a FDM part then perform a structual analysis using anisotropic material properties that match that of your printed parts. I would assume that by now data for material properties of FDM parts with respect to machine parameters would be known at least for commonly implemented materials such as ABS and PC.
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, print-material, support-material
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thread-3164 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3164 | What is the MakerBot Grip Surface lifespan? | 2016-12-11T04:46:59.613 | # Question
Title: What is the MakerBot Grip Surface lifespan?
I've done a few prints on my MakerBot Replicator+ now and I'm curious if anyone else knows what the typical lifespan is signs of degradation are for the grip surface tape?
I'm used to using Kapton tape in the past. Which will bubble, scratch, and even tear at times, indicating that the tape should be replaced. However, this new MakerBot "Grip Tape" is a very stiff, precut material, with extruded plastic anchors to help evenly spread the tape and keep it secure on the build platform. The tape also has texturing on the top face that helps with adhesion.
So, this new tape seems somewhat impervious to bubbling, scratches, and tears. I'm curious what signs I can look out for that indicate that this new grip tape needs to be replaced.
Obviously the tape isn't a permanent solution, so what are some signs that the tape should be replaced?
# Answer
There's no quantitative formula for the lifespan of **any** grip material, be it tape, glue, or PEI sheet. If you find a lack of stiction and it's not due to small changes in the Z-origin (50 microns can make a big difference in the way the first layer grabs the bed!), then replace the tape. It's cheap.
Just to be pedantic, torn and scarred tape should be replaced :-)
> 2 votes
---
Tags: makerbot, maintenance, adhesion
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thread-3165 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3165 | What resolution (pixels/mm) should I use in SVG for CNC? | 2016-12-11T18:41:40.657 | # Question
Title: What resolution (pixels/mm) should I use in SVG for CNC?
I am planning a mechanical 40% keyboard build and are coincidentally on the home stretch of a homemade CNC project.
The only thing the CNC needs to do for the keyboard project is to drill 7\*48 holes. So what I need to do now is layout those holes in SVG. Therein lies the question. What resolution should I use for the SVG? I want to space the center of the keyboard switches 19 mm apart. An online pixel to mm converter suggested that 72 pixels is exactly 19.05 mm (which actually is what Cherry MX says should be their spacing).
Now, I do understand that this really doesn't matter, but I am curious as I am new on CNCs and was suspecting that there is a number that will "just work".
EDIT: For example, if I where to print the template (SVG) on a regular printer, what pixel to mm ratio should I use so that it would come out the size I want?
# Answer
> 6 votes
I found one of those printer things that puts ink on dead trees and tested to print a simple SVG file.
```
<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
width="400px" height="800px">
<rect x="10" y="10" width="72" height="72" fill="#999999" />
<rect x="10" y="100" width="378" height="378" fill="#999999" />
</svg>
```
As I suspected 72 pixels came out pretty much exactly 19mm. (72/19.05)\*100~=378 came out 100mm.
Given this I am going to assume that 72/19.05 is the de facto best pixel to mm ratio to use for CNC projects.
EDIT:
Found this documentation: http://w3.org/TR/SVG/coords.html#Units
```
<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"
width="400px" height="800px">
<rect x="10" y="10" width="19.05mm" height="19.05mm" fill="#999999" />
<rect x="10" y="100" width="100mm" height="100mm" fill="#999999" />
</svg>
```
Much simpler to use mm as units right away
# Answer
> 1 votes
SVG is a vector-graphics format, there's no particular reason it can't scale arbitrarily. Presumably the CNC software will allow you to select the scale of a pixel? If so, pick a scale that makes the math work out easily (so some integer number of pixels per millimeter). If not, it's probably documented somewhere for the specific tool you're using.
---
Tags: resolution
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thread-3176 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3176 | Unidentified problem in printing | 2016-12-12T20:57:16.917 | # Question
Title: Unidentified problem in printing
I have printed the XY resonance, Z resonance, bridging performance and the negative space tolerance test, from Makezine (can be found here), and I have encountered the following errors in the prints.
**Z resonance test:**
The layers are shifting as the height is increasing.
<sub>Click Here for larger image</sub>
**XY resonance test:**
There is continuous extrusion problem that is occurring on the same side, I have printed it a few times and every time I'm getting the same problem at the same side.
<sub>Click Here</sub> <sub>Click Here</sub>
**Bridging performance test:**
Has severe infill drop, the test recommended printing without supports.
<sub>Click Here</sub> <sub>Click Here</sub>
**Negative space tolerances:**
Except for the 0.6 pin, I was unable to remove any of other pins.
---
I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ printer with V2c hexagon tool head (0.35 mm). These are the settings that I used while printing these objects:
* Layer thickness: 0.1 mm
* infill: 20%
* Printing temperature: 230°C
* Printbed: 85°C
* Bottom and top layer thickness: 0.1 mm
Please provide suggestions on improving the printer performance.
# Answer
Okay so one problem at a time.. You have several issues.
1 You will likely note while it prints, the pillar will almost catch and sometimes twang as the layers get higher and higher. Issue here is you are over extruding a bit and the head is dragging on the print. Add some leverage and then you get this strange pattern. Letting it cool more between layers or by adding a fan will also help. A small pillar like this will not have much time to cool.
Or it could be that your Z is not straight. Whats the name of this test? Right the Z resonance test. Check out your smooth rods and screws and see if they are perfect or not.
2 Hmm maybe some oozing / over extrusion. I mean it will never be perfect.
3 Looks good to me. You are printing PLA not ABS?. Looking at your temps and I hope you are doing ABS.. Which probably should bridge a bit better. That said even my highly calibrated machines would have a hard time with a bridge like that. I've been at this for years. Fan will help. Different material will help. I mean you *are* printing over air. That said 1-2 degrees will make a difference. Try slowing it down. Try lowering temp. Add that fan. Remember every spool will need a new perfect temp. Even a different color will need calibration as the pigments change the temperature profile.
Last over all, simplify 3d seems to really help. I rarely spend time calibrating these days. Albeit they cost a lot. *no affiliation*.
I also like this visual guide http://reprap.org/wiki/Print\_Troubleshooting\_Pictorial\_Guide
EDIT. I see you have added more photos! For the Z axis, I stick with my first assessment. Over-extrusion. Or it could just be getting too hot the higher you go. Maybe add a min time between layers option if your slicer supports it. Fan is good too.
XY resonance.. Tricky tricky. My research shows this can be solved by using a different slicer program. You will have to research how to solve this with your preferred program. Maybe try to tighten belts, and tweek your oozebane settings. I would also play with acceleration and Jerk at the Firmware level..
Last one, Bridging. You have bigger issues than bridging. All that shows is you don't have temp dialed in 100% yet. 230 might be high.. 85 for PLA would be high as well.
> 3 votes
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Tags: extrusion, infill
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thread-3174 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3174 | Resources/methods to construct STL files using disparate parts using OpenSCAD | 2016-12-12T19:44:53.147 | # Question
Title: Resources/methods to construct STL files using disparate parts using OpenSCAD
What resources or methods would OpenSCAD users suggest to piece together disparate STL files?
I'd like to take an existing STL model-library of STL parts (head, torso, arms, legs) and make it a Thingiverse OpenSTL maker, similar to the castle generator and/or the puzzle generators available.
This way, users can generate a custom model using the designated parameters and download the model for printing.
# Answer
I'll offer up the following options, without waiting for an answer to my question.
One can import a specific STL file into OpenSCAD and perform rotation, translation and scale, but it would be "clunky" as you'd be making miniscule changes to the parameters for those actions. Each imported object would have to be manipulated individually via the changes in the code. If your imported objects have quantifiable dimensions, that is, if you know specific measurements, you would have an easier time of the project.
If you are not limiting yourself to OpenSCAD, I'd recommend the easy-to-use MeshMixer. I recently "assembled" the parts of a cosplay "weapon" for a friend. All the parts were individual STL files and were positioned in 3-space using MeshMixer to make the parts appear as if the project were printed and assembled.
The transform tool in Meshmixer is a graphic three-arrow/three-axis manipulator icon. Grab an arrow tip and the model moves in the direction of the drag. Grab an arc between two arrows and the model rotates. If you want five degree rotation increments, move the mouse outward after the grab and get a calibration circle. When the mouse is on the circle, you get snaps to five degrees. If you need smaller movement, move the mouse out even farther from the center.
The 3-space presented in Meshmixer gives you the ability to align pieces/parts in all three dimensions, to your satisfaction. There is a model hide and a model-ghost feature as well, to assist the placement.
I expect that one could use a program such as Blender, but the learning curve is more like a chasm or cliff-face.
One could use an engineering-focus program such as SolidWorks, Fusion 360 and so many others, but I think your head, arms, legs, torso reference means you aren't using orthogonal models more suited to those programs.
Meshmixer, like OpenSCAD is free. I use both and approve this message.
> 2 votes
# Answer
While this is probably (?) not suitable for the Thingiverse customizer, OpenSCAD has a decent Makefile support. In a project I am currently working on, I have a set of include files that start off with some configurable parameters, then provide some computed dimensions based on these parameters which are then used to render the individual components. Through the Makefile/.deps mechanism, the system keeps track of which component .scad file is influenced by which settings file and automatically rebuilds the parts that might be affected. (Note that the .deps files are not checked into the repository.) In the assembled model, I merely `import` the individual rendered STL files (in my case, always through some wrapper module for coloring and BOM generation).
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, cad, open-source
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thread-3167 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3167 | How to use E1 as E0? | 2016-12-11T22:33:20.137 | # Question
Title: How to use E1 as E0?
Like many people, I have burnt the pins in the micro-controller connected to the E0 motor - the E0 motor is not working anymore and I need to print tomorrow! I need to control the extruder motor with the working E1 pins. How do I change this in firmware?
I tried to change to the pins in \`pins\_RAMPS.h" but it was a complete fail, the motors that i tried to change didn't move.
I have a Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.3 in "Extruder Fan Bed" configuration, I use Repetier-Host as host and Marlin as firmware.
# Answer
I would change the pin assignments by swapping E0 and E1 in `pins_RAMPS.h`.
> 5 votes
# Answer
As a quick and dirty solution you may try to enable two extruders in configuration file, re-upload firmware, and then edit your GCODE file to replace all E0 references with E1.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, motor
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thread-3190 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3190 | Extending extruder heater and thermistor wires | 2016-12-13T17:08:38.697 | # Question
Title: Extending extruder heater and thermistor wires
I wanted to extend the E3D V6's extruder heater and the thermistor wires. Is it ok to solder extension wires or does it have to be crimp only! Also are regular wires ok or does it have to be some special cable?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Soldering is fine, both for the thermistor wires as for the heater.
The wires don't need to be particularly special, though there are some things you should keep in mind:
* Current. The heater can draw up to 3-4A, the wires need to be able to handle this. The wires for the thermistor can be thinner.
* Flexibility. The hotend (presumably) moves, so the wires should be able to withstand frequent movement. Use stranded (rather than solid) wire.
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Tags: hotend
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thread-3189 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3189 | Non-Heated Beds affect on 3D Prints | 2016-12-13T16:10:42.753 | # Question
Title: Non-Heated Beds affect on 3D Prints
I'm looking to buy my first 3D Printer, on a tight budget of $250. Unfortunately, this printer that I found on Amazon comes with all the bells and whistles, *except* for a heated bed.
I want to know if this would affect printing severely, as I have read that the plastic/ filament cools down rather quickly, and that it results in Printer "fails".
I'm actually a bit nervous with this buy, as I don't want to spend $250 on a printer that produces 90% print fails.
An example of the printer I'm referring to is the Cube 3 Printer, Grey by 3D Systems.
# Answer
Yes. That said you can view it as an intro into 3d printing. Once you know you are really into it you can buy a higher end machine, or hunt craigslist / ebay / facebook groups for a used one.
What the heated bed will allow you to do is print more than PLA, and certain formulations of no warp ABS. The Makerbot uses no heated bed, instead in addition to being PLA only it does what we call a raft. That said one of my 6 printers is a makerbot and it still gets warping if the print is on the edge of the plate.
You can also add a heated print bed later. If your electronics allow for it.
That said.. Just buy one with a heated bed? I know you can get one close to that price point. Heated beds cost 7 dollar. However as pointed out by Tom, there are other costs such as a more powerful heated bed. Still one should be able to get a printer in that price range or close to it with a heated bed.
To be more clear. You will not have a 90% fail rate if you use PLA. However your prints will often have some heat warping and you will HAVE to use a raft.
from http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary
> Raft A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated bed.
> 2 votes
# Answer
At the risk of an opinionated answer...
I would say that if money is tight, then get the correct printer in the first instance, en lieu of purchasing one that ends up giving you unsatisfactory prints, and that you then have to spend even more money on, in order to get prints of an acceptable quality.
A heatbed, while not essential, is, IMHO, certainly desirable.
Just a thought - Instead of purchasing a ready built printer on Amazon, have you considered building your own RepRap? If you look at a Bill Of Materials (BOM), and then purchase the parts individually from China, then not only will you end up with a good/better spec printer, for the same price, but you would also understand the mechanics a lot better. A good, and thorough, understanding the printer is essential for repairs, when (not *if*) the printer goes wrong (and believe me, it *will*). For a little over £200 I have managed to source all of the parts separately for a P3Steel v4 printer, with Kysan stepper motors, and an aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm heatbed.
Note that I knew nothing about 3D printing, three months ago, so you do not need to be an expert, just do plenty of research beforehand.
FWIW, my aluminium MK3 heatbed was £19.99.
> 2 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-2723 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2723 | TPU filament usage for dental application? | 2016-09-02T10:30:22.413 | # Question
Title: TPU filament usage for dental application?
Can the flexible TPU filament be used in the case of printing a dental fixture?
Filament - SainSmart 1.75mm 1kg/2.2lb Flexible (TPU) Series Filament for 3D Printers RepRap.
# Answer
There are a Ton of issues with using this type of material. First off there is no way anything that comes out of your FDM printer will be sanitary enough to meet the requirements for medical applications. Your nozzle might even be contain Lead. Last you would need this printer to be cleaned to clean room standards. As well as stored and operated in one..
Second I have not heard of a flexible material that meets FDA requirements. (which is not the same as does not) You have to worry about even the additives they add for color. Or straight up contamination of the material.
I do want to mention that there are people who use SLA printers for dental items. I cannot say how SLA would meet food or medical grade requirements. My guess is a lack of regulation.
So a bad idea I would say...
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
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thread-2993 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2993 | Which type of extrusion problem? | 2016-10-28T15:08:18.357 | # Question
Title: Which type of extrusion problem?
I'm a novice in 3D printing. I have a Lulzbot Kittaz 3D printer with a hexagonal hot end of 0.35 mm. I have printed a test subject, and while I was printing I encountered this extrusion problem. I'm using ABS with 230 °C hot end temperature and 85 °C bed temperature. What kind of problem is this and how should I rectify it?
I took this photo when the printer printed the first layer:
# Answer
It looks like you are not extruding at the correct rate. I would check your slicer settings for nozzle and filament size. Also check and calibrate for your filament diameter.
It looks like you could be getting better adhesion too. Lulzbot recommends a 110C bed temperature. That might help. (lulzbot.com/store/filament/abs under specifications)
These are some good resources to troubleshoot prints,
RepRap
All3DP
Simplify3D
> 4 votes
# Answer
As Jmb2341 suggests, this *over extrusion* could be due to an excessive feed rate.
However, I would also like to add the possibility of your Z-height during the *first layer* being too close. For instance, if your *first layer height* is set to **0.4mm**, but your print head actually moves as close as **0.2mm** from the bed, there will be twice as much filament extruded than what it is actually room for below the nozzle. This, in turn, will *appear* like over extrusion, while the issue actually is your Z-leveling/height.
In general, unless you are using a *raft*, the amount of first layer over extrusion will often have to be balanced with the prints ability to stick to the bed. In other words, over extrusion during the first layer improves print stickiness, so that close bed leveling gives sticky prints but first layer over extrusion; while, distant bed leveling gives loose prints with more accurate first layer extrusion.
If you are wondering whether what you are seeing is over extrusion due to excessive feed rate or too close bed levelling, then you should try to inspect the extrusion of the *top layer* of some of your prints: If the top layer looks fine, your bed is leveled too close; however, if the top layer is over extruded as well, then your feed rate is too high.
Good luck!
> 3 votes
# Answer
Two things come to mind. First it is the first few layers. You could have the head Smashing into the print bed. Causing a massive build up of plastic the first few layers. And or you have over extrusion.
1. Take a piece of paper. you want the distance from the head and the bed to be that width. Just enough friction to feel a light drag.
2. After that verify that your first layer extrusion multiplier is under 1.5.
3. Make sure you are extruding the correct amount. Take a ruler. Mark out 100mm. Have it extrude 100mm. Correct feed rates accordingly.
4. Next check plastic diameter by taking the average over 10 samples over a meter of plastic. Enter accordingly.
5. Then last you might have temp a bit high. Drop it a few degrees. Not a huge factor.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, extrusion
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thread-3199 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3199 | Does XYZPrinting software allow the creation of rafts when printing? | 2016-12-14T09:37:34.053 | # Question
Title: Does XYZPrinting software allow the creation of rafts when printing?
Ironing out all my worries before buying my first 3D printer.
I'm looking at getting the ***da Vinci miniMaker*** 3D printer as my first 3D printer, but it doesn't come with a heated bed.
On my previous question about heating beds effect on a print, I was told that I need to use a raft to compensate for the absence of a heated bed. What I want to know is, does the software that comes with the printer allow the creation of rafts whilst/prior to printing? Or will it create rafts if need be?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Ok. After watching some YouTube Videos, I would take it that the abovementioned software does include the option to create rafts when printing a model.
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Tags: 3d-models, software
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thread-3207 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3207 | Is z-axis zero near the hotend? | 2016-12-15T14:42:18.353 | # Question
Title: Is z-axis zero near the hotend?
I'm in the process of building the D-Bot core XY printer, and I was hoping to know if the Z-axis 'zero' is near the hot end or near the bottom of the printer furthest away from the hotend? In this printer the Z-platform moves up and down and the nozzle stays at the same height.
# Answer
> 6 votes
Generally, Z-axis zero is when the hot end and the build plate are close to each other. Some printers keep the hot end up at the top, and bring the build plate up to reach it. Other printers keep the build plate at the bottom, and lower the hot end down to reach it. As such, "Z axis zero" doesn't specify top or bottom of the physical printer, it just specifies that the hot end is right up against the build plate, ready to print its first layer. In the printer you describe, where the hot end remains at the top, that's where Z zero is.
In terms of the model being printed, Z axis zero is always the bottom of the model, the first layer to be deposited on the build plate. The numbers increase from there, either lifting the hot end up, or pushing the build plate down, depending on the design of the printer.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Yes, Z-Zero is typically at the "top" of the printer, closest to the nozzle(s). X and Y zeros are also typically in the lower-left corner of the buildplate.
However, the XY zeros are re-interpreted in slicing software to produce cleaner G-Code as it's sometimes difficult to read G-Code in negative coordinates. For this functionality, slicing engines utilize the machine build space length and width.
So if you encounter a situation where your machine "over travels" in either -X or -Y direction during startup, verify that the length and width of your build space is correct in your slicing engine.
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thread-3197 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3197 | 3D Molecular Printers | 2016-12-14T07:37:37.493 | # Question
Title: 3D Molecular Printers
Are there commercially available molecular 3D printers that can create catalytic structures like Zeolites, if not are there any research efforts underway in such field?
# Answer
The link I mentioned from popular mechanics is the state of molecular 3d printing. So yes the printer does exist and can do some really impressive things. However as the article states it is limited to what it can create right now. The technology sounds really interesting. However it might be a bit out of our knowledge as it doesn't seem to be widely available passed the scientific academia world.
This link here talks about reactionware for Chemical Syntheses as well as a TED talk about it
> 3 votes
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Tags: print-material
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thread-3213 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3213 | First layer overlap on one side | 2016-12-16T18:28:38.123 | # Question
Title: First layer overlap on one side
When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall.
* Printer: Arduino Materia 101
* Filament: Rec Pla
* Temp: 210 degrees
I have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.
However, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This may be a result of an unlevel build plate (OP did not specify if calibration was done at time of writing).
If the area that is overlapping is higher (closer to the nozzle), the filament will be pushed down and around the nozzle as it extrudes in that area. This will result in excess filament overlapping unto other strands on the layer.
Please excuse my lack of artistic skills in paint, but the image below should illustrate what can happen when your build plate is unlevel:
Basically what it's trying to illustrate is that if the nozzle is closer than the expected layer height, the machine will continue to flow as if the nozzle is *layer height* away. This typically results in a larger *layer width* because **the nozzle is essentially pushing material out of the way**.
You will notice that as you go further to the right in the drawing, that your layer may begin to "thin out" because if the nozzle more than a layer height away, the filament "stretches" until it settles on the build plate, resulting in a thinner layer width.
Ideally, your nozzle will be parallel to your build plate at all points along the build space and the "***Standoff Distance***" will be equal to your layer height. So, you should see the top of your bead of filament at the same height as the bottom of your nozzle.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes. That happens. I personally prefer this to the alternative which is it does not go far enough and curls back. That said depending on your slicer you will have a line overlap tolerance. But what's really happening is you are smooching your first layer. Aka your hot end is too high in relation to your first layer multiplier.
Failing that and if you see it later in the print. Again I don't think you really can fix it but you should recalibrate your printers firmware, steps per mm and your slicers filament size.
Looking at it I again it is a bit much. Maybe the plate is not flat. Does it happen on any other sides? After that we have the unlikely case your hotend is too hot. Which the slow down of the printer could cause too much material to ooze out. But I'm going to say plate level as number one suspicion.
3D printing is a lot like trying to spin 3-4 plates at once.. if you still have issues I can expand more on calibration steps you need to do.
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Tags: pla, layer-height
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thread-3198 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3198 | Reducing amount of material | 2016-12-14T08:32:42.480 | # Question
Title: Reducing amount of material
Just started doing some design. First project was a replacement handle for my angle grinder, so basically a hollow cylinder. I want to reduce the amount of material used in the print. I could sit here and punch holes through the handle with a smaller cylinder, or some other shape etc., but is there an easier way to do this?
It must be a pretty common requirement, just like in the movies where the spies look at a photo and tell the tech to 'enhance ... enhance'. Ideally you could select a surface and overlay some sort of pattern to remove material.
# Answer
> 11 votes
Updated to match the improved question format.
There are a few ways to reduce material usage. First is what you have touched on. Which is to reduce the design by punching out holes, and removing all material that does not add anything to the structure. Even better is what you touched on, reducing it to the point where your print is more like a suspension bridge, where it is a the bare minimum scaffolding in a geometric pattern.
Most tools you will find for reduction are like this tutorial from Shapeways on Meshlab where you reduce the surface detail. It might be worth exploring these a bet, however probably not what you really need.
Next the more hard core cad tools such as solid works will allow you to preform Parametric optimizations and Topology Optimization. Topology Optimization. seems to be your real winner
Now from the 3d printer standpoint we just simply tweak our slicer settings. There are entries for Infill. I usually print with 7% infill. AKA my print is 93% hollow inside. I then set a few solid shell layers. Think of solid shells as the skin. Usually that is enough to reduce my plastic usage. The only reason I don't make a part 100% hollow and a few solid skin / shell layers is that I need something to print on top of or if I need the part to be strong . Even low percent infill can be very strong if the correct geometric pattern is used (I.E. triangles).
Generally the reduced infill will be enough, unless you are making thousands of this item, though in that case you are probably not going to 3d print it anyways.
3dprintingforbeginners has a nice article on the relationship between infill, number of shells and part strength. A bit more information about the terminology (infill/shells/etc...) can be found on 3D printing blog.
# Answer
> 5 votes
"*Just like the movies*"-type tech typically means ***$$$***.
For those who do not own (legally or otherwise) expensive CAD software, it may be difficult to find an out-of-the-box solution. That's not to say that it can't be done.
A close, readily available, solution would be to use a series of common CAD tools such as Shell and Scale. Between these functions, you should be able to scale a copy of your main solid object, then shell the new inner object. When sliced, the object should have a smaller "inner wall" and a hollow center. I would recommend this over 0% infill as a shell will not provide enough strength for the intended use you mentioned.
There is a great article on My3DMatter.com that provides details and a very interesting set of charts, outlining cost, speed, strength, and quality distributions at varying layer heights and infills.
***Please Note:*** These results are going to ***differ* between different material types, vendors, part shape, and infill pattern**. These results were found printing from a MakerBot Replicator and presumably MakerBot-branded filament.
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thread-3215 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3215 | Designing/Printing objects with sized holes | 2016-12-17T10:39:48.277 | # Question
Title: Designing/Printing objects with sized holes
When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?
Is it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is it better to design the holes larger or print prototypes and increase the sizes according to the real prints?
# Answer
The reason holes come out undersized is generally the slicer, so calibrating the printer itself cannot solve the issue (without making other things worse). The output of the printer is exactly what it should be, given the G-code provided to it. It's just that the G-code does not represent the hole diameter correctly.
It would be best to simply account for the deviation in your design, or simply drill out undersized holes to the correct diameter.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Even in traditional manufacturing (milling, lathe, router, etc.) dimensions are often times offset to accommodate unforeseen variables such as cutting tool wear, material hardness, and especially operator/engineering error.
As *Tom van der Zanden* stated, it is common for holes to come out undersized. This is not a conscious action, but a result of uncompensated variables in the material. When you phase the material by heating it to near or at melting point, the material technically begins changing. With that can come varying changes in melting and *cooling rates*. Your slicing engine will not understand what should be compensated and what shouldn't.
So, I would suggest:
* Aiming for the lower tolerance for your hole size. If you don't have a tolerance, just make one up and aim for about 0.5mm-1mm below your target hole size.
* *Ream* the hole using a reamer or drill, utilizing the 3D printed hole as a pilot.
* Be wary of 3D hole positions. If a hole is oriented in compound angles, meaning that it is not directly in-line with an axis plane such as XY, XZ, or YZ, then you may also have misshapen holes. **These may result in positional errors if you decide to ream them out.**
> 3 votes
# Answer
Make sure you know what purpose the holes are to serve. If they are *clearance* holes , i.e. designed so that the screw or bolt slides thru easily, then there's nothing wrong with a slight oversize.
If you want a *tappable* hole, i.e. either drive threads for a machine screw or self-tap with wood/drywall screws, then you want to go undersized.
If you want the hole to be a close-fit with a non-threaded rod, as is done for maintaining alignment for moving parts, then almost certainly start undersized and clear the hole just enough to fit the desired rod.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I've had this issue too and I've pretty much solved it by making all holes polygons instead of round.
The general rule of thumb I follow is to use a polygon with 4 times as many sides as the hole diameter in millimeters, e.g. for a hole with a 3 mm diameter I'd use a 12 sided polygon.
Then it's a matter of choosing between a circumscribed (circle fits inside polygon) or an inscribed (polygon fits inside circle) polygon depending on what you're using the hole for.
> 1 votes
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thread-3219 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3219 | MakerBot Camera Stream | 2016-12-17T20:00:27.670 | # Question
Title: MakerBot Camera Stream
Is it possible to use the onboard camera on the 5th+ generation MakerBot printers to stream or save to a file?
I'd like to try and use the stream for customers on my 3DHubs account and they recommend setting up a YouTube stream. However, even if I'm able to stream to VLC Player or something, I'd like to get the video/images somehow.
# Answer
I own the gen 5, not the gen 5+. As far as I can tell, the camera has not gotten much of an upgrade and the software is also just as limited. That said to be sure I verified on several sites such as this reddit.
There are some that claim that the software is open source. I do not think this is true given the parent company. Following even if it was you do not want to use their camera. It is shocking how cheap they went on this ultra premium printer. Which despite printing very well has not been received well. The main issue is that the camera is 320 by 240! That alone is enough to derail your quest I am afraid.
Take a look at this raspberry pi project on building your own camera set up. Though really any wireless camera setup should do. Using a Pi has the stand alone advantage.
> 3 votes
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thread-3226 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3226 | Photogrammetry using pure rotation? | 2016-12-20T00:20:55.597 | # Question
Title: Photogrammetry using pure rotation?
I have a set of 42 images made as a rotation around the object and it is failing to generate a model in Visual SFM. From what I can gather, the problem is that just doing a rotation is insufficient. There must photographs taken from above as well.
Is there any way to avoid the need for high angle shots, and just use rotational shots and still get a 3D model from Visual SFM?
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is not a problem specific to Visual SFM, but a general technical problem. The software cannot accurately determine the depth of the pieces which approach perpendicularity with the camera lens. The software uses those varying measurements and estimated angles to calculate the geometry. Check out the law of cosines.
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thread-3225 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3225 | Anet board - MOSFET replacement? | 2016-12-19T22:10:02.343 | # Question
Title: Anet board - MOSFET replacement?
To learn about printing, and to print the parts for a printer of my own design later on, I've ordered an Anet A8.
I just saw this video, Anet A8 3D printer Review. all you need to know. This guy recommends using an external MOSFET. I was wondering if using a relay instead would also make it safe?
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are two areas of this design which seem to pose a risk of connectors overheating, the hot end and the heated bed. The heated bed runs at about 6 amps, 12 Volts. The hot end runs at a lower current, but can itself overheat if the thermistor stops providing feedback.
The problem in this design with the heated bed is mainly the connectors - they work OK when they are good, but can easily come a bit loose. This has two side effects. The bed heats less well, and the connector itself heats instead. Replacing the 2mm plug connector, and 2mm molex with direct soldered connections will help (the on-board mosfet seems OK with the current, unless you increase the power rail voltage).
A mosfet is a good solution for high current switching, the modules available have good screw terminals which should be OK for maybe 25A (well in excess of what you need). Mosfets are efficient when switched fully on, so there won't be much heating.
You would also use a relay (rated for at least 10A), but this will be noisy since the heater is switched repeatedly to maintain the target temperature. A relay also takes more power itself and will ear out if repeatedly switched under load.
Bottom line, if you have a good relay already, it is OK as a temporary (safe) solution. Longer-term a mosfet is better. Pay attention to the connectors at power supply, board (in and out) and heated bed. Using an additional mosfet for the hotend is maybe overkill.
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thread-3089 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3089 | Second layer: gaps, poor adhesion - why? | 2016-11-24T17:07:25.063 | # Question
Title: Second layer: gaps, poor adhesion - why?
I'm seeing the following pattern on my Prusa clone:
The first layer prints OK, layer adhesion to the bed is good. The second layer shows the weird gaps. On larger pieces, or with an increased feed rate, it sometimes gets so bad that parts of the second layer detach and are dragged across the print. I get the impression that this effect is worse when printing in the "top left to bottom right" direction, but not as bad when printing in the "top right to bottom left" direction.
This occurs with multiple filaments and materials. I've already tried to manipulate the flow rate, temperatures and print speed, but gotten little improvement if any.
What might be causing this issue?
# Answer
I wouldn't describe that as an "OK" first layer. The nozzle is either too far from the bed, or you're underextruding. Underextrusion also looks like the cause of your second layer problems.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Your first layer is horribly misscalibrated as well.
You really should do all calibrations over. Including your firmware when your result is this bad.
Following. Let's just assume your firmware is set right. And that your flow is right as well. The second layer speaks loudly of overcooked dribbling plastic. You might have a jam. Maybe the factory left some metal shavings in the hot end. I've had it happen. Try taking apart the extruded. Make sure there are no obstructions. Clean the tip with a micro hand drill bit.
After that we will need more info. Post your settings. Your might have underflow (you set filiment size higher than it is) and have temperature so hot your are literally boiling the plastic and it is all dripping sparatically instead of controlled.
Having temp too high can increase carbonization build ups and creats Jams. Did you ever have a good print ? My money is on a partial obstruction.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, adhesion
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thread-3244 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3244 | Is a heated bed necessary if printing with PLA? | 2016-12-21T12:56:42.090 | # Question
Title: Is a heated bed necessary if printing with PLA?
I'm looking at getting this printer, the da Vinci 1.0w 3D Printer, very soon as my first printer. Since this is an enclosed printer, from what I can tell from the pictures, and given that it is a PLA Printer (I'm assuming that is the filament it prints with), is a heated bed necessary? Especially since this printer doesn't have one? Or should I look at a ABS printer instead?
I plan on printing 1:1 scale props.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is problem with sticking to bed without preheat, PLA is possible to print on Kapton tape with no-heated bed. Or there are other tapes dedicated for printing. da Vinci 1.0w is good for small models with PLA. ABS is not possible with no heated bed.
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thread-3227 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3227 | Can the da Vinci Jr 1.0 print in 100 microns, if so how? | 2016-12-20T01:59:00.677 | # Question
Title: Can the da Vinci Jr 1.0 print in 100 microns, if so how?
I was wondering if the ***da Vinci Jr. 1.0*** can print in 100 μm layer height.
If so, how could I do this?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I will attempt to answer your question, as it stands.
Dealing with the first part, according to the product specifications, the resolution, or layer thickness, is indeed 100 μm, when printing using the **Fine** setting.
> **Resolution**
>
> Fine 0.1 mm (100 microns)
>
> Standard 0.2 mm (200 microns)
>
> Speed 0.3 mm (300 microns)
>
> Ultra Fast 0.4 mm (400 microns)
With respect to the second part of your question, *how could I do this?* You simply put the printer into **Fine** mode, and the resulting print will be printed with 100 μm thick layers.
If this is not what you wanted to ask, then please clarify your question.
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thread-3243 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3243 | Producing closely fitting parts | 2016-12-21T09:57:09.773 | # Question
Title: Producing closely fitting parts
I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose. Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?
Using a tool like Openscad to generate parametric parts is really useful because it facilitates the creation of geometrically precise parts such as cogs and drive shafts, which also have precise dimensions. The problem arises when the parts are printed and joined together.
I recently printed some cogs that were supposed to be able to rotate freely around a shaft, which was also printed. I made the shaft about 0.1 mm smaller than the center hole of the cog expecting it to be able to rotate freely, however I found that I had to bore out the center hole slightly and sand down the shaft. I then found that the boring was imprecise and the center of rotation was off center.
# Answer
> 6 votes
There are a lot of factors to 3D printing parts that work and fit together.
A lot of it will be discovered by trial and error, but let's try to put you on the right path.
First your material is what matters the most. Specifically their coefficient of thermal expansion, i.e. how much can the plastic change when heat is applied. PLA's coefficient is low compared to ABS, for example. Which is why the MakerBot can print without a heated bed, but it cannot print ABS with any success.
Here is a list of coefficient of thermal expansions by material.
What you want to do next is to print out a few test items and see for yourself. Below is an example of reality vs. expectation. As you can see the circle shrinks. It will never expand. So you will always make it bigger than you need. It is also good to note in this example below that the block itself is Larger than expected. The best solution is to not expect high tolerances and build a lot of flex into your designs.
Generally you want the hole size larger. If I wanted a 4 mm minimum hole, then I would likely make it 5+ mm.
The best thing you can do is print out a tray and document how different the sizes are. Also, do the same with a print of various peg sizes. Below is an example of such a tray.
Images taken from this link, The Innovation Station - Tips for Designing 3D Printed Parts.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I think that you've got the right idea in concept, but benchmarking is typically the best way to prove this out.
**You should get in the habit of designing with assembly in mind.** This means:
* Hole sizes should be larger than intended and/or shafts should be smaller than intended
* Scaling does not always solve the issue! Avoid relying on scale tools as it can result in reducing/enlarging features you did not intend to scale
* My own experience has shown that a *clearance* of about **0.005" to 0.010"** <sub>(~125μm to ~250μm)</sub> should be enough. However it may be different for your situation with a different printer, filament, climate, etc.
* Also consider material shrinkage from the printing process!
# Answer
> 1 votes
I can't attest to the empirical data laid out in the first answer, but I've had to deal with a lot of components printed in two parts to be connected via design-incorporated channels. I always found that, as a reference, a box of width and length 0.98" will slide securely, but freely, into a square channel of width and length 1".
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thread-1430 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1430 | ABS Filament safety concerns | 2016-06-23T18:52:39.113 | # Question
Title: ABS Filament safety concerns
I have the XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0 with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional?
# Answer
Yes... The issue with *all* 3d printing materials. Not just ABS, but worse with ABS is the fine air particulate and Ultra fine it creates during the 3d printing process. PLA is considered *safer* than ABS. But I fear people will use this as justification, it is like saying I only smoke one cig a day instead of two so I am safe and healthy. No it really should be taken seriously.
There are a number of scientific papers and articles proving that this is an issue. Specifically that 3d printers release ultra fine particles into the air. Which can damage the lungs over time. I would STRONGLY advise not using a 3d printer around children, or at least putting it in the garage where you will not contaminate your homes air supply.
I.E.
Lot of these have some scary looking graphs. Note that I am being a bit sarcastic when I say "scary looking graphs" the take away is ABS has twice the Fine Partical emission as PLA. However should you be worried, is still up to debate. The idea is that FPE can maybe contribute to cancer or other illnesses. FPEs are thought to irritate the lungs.
These graphs are of the ultra fine particle emissions.
as you can see PLA is MUCH safer in this regard.
I cannot find the paper at the moment, but the recommendation is a full air cycle several times an hour. As someone that lives in a Cold state I personally just use PLA and am rolling the dice.
There is another SO where I cover my future plans for an air scrubber.
I will note that other materials such as Polycarbonate should just be plain avoided.
I also want to provide these links on WHY ultra fine particles are bad. In summary they really upset your lungs and are thought to cause lung cancer over time.
Wikipedia on Ultra fine particulates. White paper on ultra fine particulates.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Most *reputable* suppliers of filament should have MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) available for the material they are providing. This sheet should provide you with some mechanical, electrical, and chemical properties as well as **safety concerns**. For the most part an ABS MSDS will tell you that it can be harmful to inhale or consume ABS in any phase state (solid, gas, liquid, etc.).
Although you didn't explicitly state it in your question, your tag will lead to some pretty good answers to a somewhat related question about air filtration options.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I haven't printed much ABS but I rapidly realised that printing ABS in an enclosed space soon fills up with fumes, which apart from their toxic nature, see answer above, really stink. I close off the print space rest of the house and wear a two-filter painters respirator when in the same environment and ventilate the room when finished - I live in a temperate zone so leaving the window open isn't always an option and drafts can affect the print. Ideally, I should enclose the printer and filter the airflow but for the amount of ABS I print, it's not an economic option so a respirator it is.
> 0 votes
# Answer
your fine at practical temperatures. source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile\_butadiene\_styrene#Hazard\_for\_humans
recommended would probably be set your controller to not go above 380c if your really worried. but it's not needed.
> -6 votes
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thread-2689 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2689 | How do you heat a large glass print bed? | 2016-08-26T18:59:13.000 | # Question
Title: How do you heat a large glass print bed?
I have printed a MPCNC machine. It has a print area of about 30" x 30" and up to 11" tall. (yes, those numbers are correct).
I found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed.
My problem now is how to heat the glass? I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere.
Any ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated.
# Answer
Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose.
Don't bond the heater to the glass. You'll need to replace it when it breaks. Consider to use borosilicate glass for better heat tolerance and smaller chance of breakage. A quick search for such a large size pane comes up empty, invalidating that suggestion.
I've read of some people using water bed heaters for large area coverage, but they may heat the area unevenly.
It could be to your advantage to use multiple heater panels with temperature controls for each one. This would provide more uniform heating although more complex temperature management.
I would post links, but there are so many from which to choose.
> 7 votes
# Answer
It will be very difficult to heat such a large bed, simply because of the enormous power required. Thomas Sanladerer recommends at least 0.6 W/cm² but notes 0.4 W/cm² also works (but takes "forever" to reach the target temperature).
For a 30"x30" bed, 0.6 W/cm² would come out to 3.5 kW. At 110 V that would require 32 A and at 220 V, 16 A. These are extremely large currents, perhaps more than you can draw from a single circuit: both in the EU and US sockets tend to be fused at around 15-20 A (the standard EU Schuko plug itself is only rated for 16 A).
You will be forced to go with a lower amperage, for 0.5 W/cm² you "only" need 27 A@110 V or 14 A@220 V. 0.4 W/cm² is 21 A and 11 A respectively
As such, if you are in the US, then it will be *impossible* to heat such a bed from a standard wall outlet. In the EU it might just about be possible, but make sure that the wiring in your house is in good state and capable to carry the current required (and note that running electrical equipment at its maximum rating for an extended period of time is never a good idea).
If you are in the US, you should definitely look into getting 3-phase power installed. If you are in the EU, you might also consider this as an option. It is able to deliver more power, but you'd need a special type of heater.
There are some suppliers that make custom silicone heater mats. If you can get one in this size that would be a good option, though it would be considerably more expensive than your \\$5 piece of glass.
In any case you should not attempt a DIY solution because this is extremely dangerous. The currents you are dealing with should not be underestimated. People have already set their printers on fire due to using high currents at 12/24 V; you do not want to make a similar mistake using even higher currents at 110 V.
> 8 votes
# Answer
I am heating my 1 meter by 1 meter plate (yes those numbers are correct) (in progress long term project) of tempered glass with a silicone heater bed I bought as overstock on ebay. Silicone Heating Mat
From Reprap Wiki
> Silicone Heater Pad in sizes silicone heater pad Pros: Fast heating Reliable Most use mains voltage \- DOESN'T require any amps from the 12 volt supply Very low height Easy to install (adhesive backed) Can be relatively inexpensive 12 V types can be run directly from the controller MOSFET without a relay Integrated thermistor Long life span Cons: Can be expensive - silicon mat (50€) plus solid state relay (16€). Mains voltage, but can be purchased for 12 V. Need GROUND line to aluminum bed for safety. Relatively high temperatures possible (safety problem if thermistor dies/falls off).
I also talked to a few alibaba companies and they will happily make you a custom order. Just be wary working with them. You will also need to start another question about the particular parts you need. Actually I think I have a second one I bought from Aliexpress about that size. So no custom orders needed. Ran about 100 USD. I will note I used a MIC6 aluminum plate, custom cut at a local shop. That will have a more even heat profile than glass.
I will note that I have to run mine from 220 VAC not 110 VAC power lines.. But the actual electrical costs are pretty low!
> 4 votes
# Answer
As @Tom pointed out, heating that much area is a pretty big deal. I would just add:
* You can't draw anywhere near that much power from the normal heatbed output on a PC board like RAMPs. You could, however, use the normal output to control a big relay (semiconductor or not); that also lets you keep the high-power wiring away from the rest.
* You'll want multiple temperature sensors and heat zones, for at least 2 reasons: First, variation may be high over such an area; and second, you can save a lot of power by only powering up the portions you're going to use.
However, just like with home heating, having multiple zones makes things much more complicated. The software for managing heatbed temperature isn't likely to support multiple heaters (especially since most cards don't have enough outputs to make use of it).
I've done a bit with this since my printer is about 4x as long as normal (but *not* 4x as wide too, like yours). So far I just use one standard PC-board heatbed, and if I have to print something longer than that I do without the heatbed entirely (mine is easy to take in and out). Present plan is to get a few more of the same PC-board heaters, and have an entirely separate box with temperature dials to control each one.
But that still means the printer software won't be in control. So I couldn't (for example), have a different temp for the first few layers, or have the print stop if the heatbed gets out of range.
To put the printer back in charge, I'd have to do something like calculate the average (or maximum?) temperature of the zones, and create a signal that looks like what a thermistor or thermocouple would generate, to send to the printer software. The software would then turn the heat on or off as usual, but that output would go to the control box, which would decide what specifically to do about it. For example, even when the printer says to turn off, the heat control might keep the cooler zones on until they catch up.
In other words, it gets pretty messy... :(
> 2 votes
# Answer
Maybe you can stick a nichrome wire under the glass using a heat resistant tape. You'll have to make the appropriate calcs (or just trial/error) to achieve the desired temperature at a consistent timing.
> 1 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, glass-bed
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thread-3178 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3178 | 3D printed mold techniques for long and short term usage | 2016-12-12T22:13:03.630 | # Question
Title: 3D printed mold techniques for long and short term usage
3D printing can be used to make injection molds of unimaginable complexity but which kind of 3D printing process is suitable when?
Suppose that a part is to be made using injection molding in large quantity for an extended period of time, what Additive Manufacturing (AM) process will be the best, such that the mold does not give way too soon?
Also, suppose that the part to be made is custom and only has to be made in small quantities - that is to say that the injection mold will be used limited number of items and then thrown away - which is the best AM technique then? Best in the sense of economic feasibility, lower cost, lower capital investment etc.?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Yes, this is very broad. That said...
For high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)
Really, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a second question for that.
Do more research on injection molding. There is a great deal of information on how molds are made, i.e. How It's Made Plastic injection molds.
You will see there is a vast difference between a plastic, or silicon, mold and an injection molding machine. You are thinking that injection molding as a single mold, when it is really it is a system composing of several pieces of heavy duty machinery that can pump out hundreds of items a day automatically. However, it usually starts at 20k USD for the tooling for injection molding. Your costs could be a fraction of that or could be several times that. This is just a generality. So, if you are making 100 units you won't want to go down that route. For 10,000 units, on the other hand, it would be acceptable.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Stratasys offers a 3D printing system specifically for producing injection molds. They claim their Polyjet/Digital ABS line of printers can produce prototype injection molds good for 10-100 shots of the same mold and that the material can be used with regular injection molding machines.
Of course, the molds still wear out quickly and are only suitable for prototyping and/or extremely small production runs.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Injection molds generally require tooling and are not usually cast from 3D prints. Depending on the size of your part - costs can easily skyrocket to over $60,000. The price per part is sometimes lower than other methods. Other possible methods (depending on the part) are Thermo-Forming, Vacu-Forming, and different Casting methods - sandcasting (investment casting), flexible casting (rubber, urethane, and alginate), and hard casting (printing mold negative). Some have immediate use of 3D Printed parts...others have work flows in place to convert your files for use. You can print a mold negative, prep it, use mold release, and cast shapes from that mold... certainly the casting material would be flexible or the mold would need the proper relief- But it is certainly possible.
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Tags: print-quality, print-material, molds
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thread-3013 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3013 | Shifted Layers on Replicator 2 | 2016-11-02T16:52:59.423 | # Question
Title: Shifted Layers on Replicator 2
A few weeks ago a shift between layers in the y-direction (from the front to the back of the printer) of my Makerbot Replicator 2 appeared.
All prints have some small shifts between layers, but if the extruder has to move large distances (e.g. when I print the same object near the front and near the back of the print bed), they can reach up to 2 cm or so. In those cases the extruder seem to move the wrong distance towards the back, resulting in a shifted layer, and then moves about the same distance towards the front. Therefore objects at the front of the bed often are shifted less than at the back. Here's an example of some small shifts in the 3D benchy (printed near the front of the bed). They are particularly obvious in the hull and in the supports of the cabin:
I've tightened the pulleys, lubricated the rods, restored the device to factory settings and made sure the connectors are plugged in properly, but the problems persist. I also have the impression that the locations of the shifted layers are quite reproducible.
From what I understand problems such as these along the x-axis, are generally caused by broken cables, which are pressed upon as the extruder moves. However, the pulley for the y-axis doesn't move, so it seems unlikely that the cable is the cause.
Any help is very much appreciated!
# Answer
> 0 votes
Its not possible to say without seeing the physical machine but I would assume its a mechanical problem. Perhaps the belt or a gear is worn out missing some piece so it slips sometimes. Or the gear its a little loose on its axle. When machine is off you can move the extruder by hand and try to feel if it does so smoothly.
I would not think its electrical but first thing to do is to detach all cables and put them back, because its easy to do. Second is the dismount stepper motor and check that its gear is attached firmly. If there is a bad cable then flexing and pulling it slightly might escalate the problem so that its always broken, which can be a good thing since intermittent problems are so hard to find.
If its the stepper motor driver electronics then a new driver board is needed, last thing to try unless you have two machines and can borrow a part.
I emailed makerbot support once about another problem, I did get some advice that way.
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Tags: print-quality, makerbot, calibration
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thread-2990 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2990 | Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped | 2016-10-27T23:42:00.543 | # Question
Title: Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped
As you can see in the picture, my heated bed support is too low on the right side, even touching the Y-axis chassis end plate.
This is only the case on the front of the printer. The back is perfectly straight. Do you know how this can happen and what can be done?
# Answer
> 2 votes
okay, after ferociously dismantling the whole bed I found out that the bed and the bed support are perfectly straight! So there is something warping the bed and support. De Y-axis bars are perfectly flat too.
I found out that my table is not flat! This made the complete printer warped and even bent the print bed. put some cardboard under the frontleft foot and presto! As flat as it should be!
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-3261 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3261 | OctoPrint mjpg-streamer configuration | 2016-12-22T20:35:41.870 | # Question
Title: OctoPrint mjpg-streamer configuration
I'm running an OctoPi Raspberry Pi installation of OctoPrint, and the webcam images are too bright.
I found some documentation on changing the exposure of mjpg-streamer, see github:foosel/OctoPrint/MJPG Streamer configuration, but I don't understand where, or how, to change these settings.
# Answer
> 6 votes
The commands in your documentation only work with the Raspi camera. If that's the camera you're using, you can use the tools mentioned from terminal on your Raspberry Pi, or over SSH.
If you don't have SSH setup and are using your Raspberry Pi with a keyboard and mouse, you can access the command line by pressing `ctrl`+`alt`+`f1` **remembering that** `ctrl`+`alt`+`f7` brings back your GUI.
# Setting exposure for Raspi camera
First navigate to the folder you installed `mjpg-streamer`. If you installed it in your home folder:
```
cd ~/mjpg-streamer/mjpg-streamer-experimental
```
Then use the `input_raspicam.so` utility to set the exposure using whatever preset you'd like.
```
./input_raspicam.so -ex night
```
# If you don't have a Raspi camera
I'm currently using a Logitech HD Webcam C310 with OctoPrint. I'm pretty sure setting the exposure for that is a pretty standard operation and you shouldn't need to install anything. v4l2 (video 4 linux 2) comes installed with Raspian.
To set the exposure for a Logitech camera (possibly others too) first enable manual exposure mode (1 for manual, 0 for auto)
```
v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto=1
```
Then set the exposure value with
```
v4l2-ctl -c exposure_absolute=100
```
replacing 100 with whatever value you'd like. The values start at 1 and have a maximum value of 10,000.
These commands can of course be run over SSH.
You can also run
```
v4l2-ctl --list-ctrls-menus
```
to see all the options for your camera.
Here's a screenshot of my ssh session and my OctoPrint interface for context:
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Tags: octoprint
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thread-3263 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3263 | Mesh/Geometry quality | 2016-12-23T17:07:50.837 | # Question
Title: Mesh/Geometry quality
tried searching but couldn't find anything. I do not have a 3d printer so can't really experiment on my own, which means that when I am going to order a 3d print I want to get it as good as possible. So, my question:
Do quality of geometry matters when 3d printing? Will 3d printer only print quads, or ngons are fine? Are there shapes to avoid?
Cheers :) M.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Welcome to the site!
In regards to quads, vs polygon. People will often reduce the overall detail to make it easier to print. But so long as after you export it to a STL and verify that your Manifold edges were done correctly and what you though was solid is solid, you should be good to go. As near as I can tell so long as you can export it to STL then it doesn't matter what meshing you use. That said I see Polygons more than anything.
Worst case you can run it through a STL repair program and it will make the required changes for you. Usually I used these tools to fix poorly rendered files. My favorite is Nettfab. which is now part of microsoft.
You can verify if it will print by downloading slic3r, then "slicing" the file. After that you should be able to view a layer by later output.
Article talking about quads vs triangles from design
Shapeways article on preparing blender files for 3d printing
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you're talking about the shape of the end result, rather than the constituent elements of the model - the answer is no, there is no simple geometric restriction. Have a look at 3D benchy for an example of how print quality can be affected by different aspects.
One obvious issue is overhangs, so the orientation of the part is important for printing. A flat circle will (on a cartesian printer) come out smooth as X any Y move in sync, and have good support. A vertical circle will have steps introduced by the slicing which quantises X and Y from layer to latyer.
Sharp, un-supported corners may be the weakest aspect to resolve in the print - extruded filament tends to shrink as it cools, but as far as I know the errors like this can be reduced by printing more slowly (and reducing the dynamic flexing of the frame too).
Talking about a top surface of an extruded n-gon, if you look at the slicing output, you'll see infill in the bulk, with a layer filling only the top 3 or 4 layers. There are several infill patern options, but yes, there is scope for a scenario where the top layer needs to bridge a long way. However, since the alternate layers fill in orthogonal directions this should be a minimal effect. Tweaking the infill percentage, or chamfering the corners can fix these small defects.
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Tags: print-quality, 3d-models, 3d-design, cad
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thread-3222 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3222 | Opening .STL to scale in Print Studio (Dremel) | 2016-12-18T15:40:13.923 | # Question
Title: Opening .STL to scale in Print Studio (Dremel)
New to 3D printing so sorry if this is a simple/basic question. I've done a ton of Googling but can't seem to find the answer...
When I download a .STL file and open it in Print Studio, it opens as a HUGE object - much larger than you would ever want it. How to I get the file to open at scale to how the designer wanted it. For instance the following file from Thingaverse has specific size but I'm unsure of how to print it at that exact size. I'm assuming that the info is able to be stored somewhere in the .STL file.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:181631
# Answer
> 1 votes
The STL file format does not provide any way to provide the units of measurement for an object. The majority of FDM printers use millimeters so most people export objects with the assumption the values in the STL file are in millimeters.
As you found out that's not always true. The second most common assumption is to export in inches.
Most of the slicers I've used provide a scaling option if you can't edit the STL file yourself. Some will even offer to do the inches to mm conversion for you. Scale to suit when you print or use a 3d editor. I've gotten specific sizes by creating a temporary cube the size I wanted and scaling the object using the cube as a reference.
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Tags: 3d-design
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thread-3220 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3220 | Small Z axis step: Repetier-Firmware | 2016-12-17T20:20:31.317 | # Question
Title: Small Z axis step: Repetier-Firmware
Z axis length for my printer equals 120 mm. When I manually pass this length, from display controller menu, it's about few millimeters. Then I set the resolution (ZAXIS\_STEPS\_PER\_MM) at 1600 steps per mm. And nothing changed, step still very small.
I use Repetier-Firmware, Arduino Mega+RAMPS 1.4, standard Nema 17 steppers and Prusa i3 like cartesian printer.
This is hardware or software problem? I checked the steppers, they're fine.
# Answer
I solved this problem by change EEPROM value to "2" in Configuration.h:
```
#define EEPROM_MODE 2
```
Now ZAXIS\_STEPS\_PER\_MM value load from firmware, not EEPROM.
```
#define EEPROM_MODE 0
```
— does not result in my case.
> 2 votes
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Tags: z-axis, stepper-driver
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thread-3270 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3270 | photogrammetry with partially translucent objects | 2016-12-24T19:51:33.930 | # Question
Title: photogrammetry with partially translucent objects
I've captured a stationary spinning object in a computer game. It's semi translucent and there are stationary objects behind it.
As I expected it did not convert using Autodesk's remake. It gives no explanation other than 'Error'. I obviously can't paint the object. Are there any techniques in Photoshop that will let me manually fix the images to reduce the translucency?
Any other program that might produce a mesh from images? The game objects can't be extracted via any other program I've tried.
# Answer
I found at least 2 online pages that'll create a 3D stl from an image, basically using intensity (brightness) to determine depth.
selva3d.com and embossify.com
I used it with success on a binary (black or white) image, at least.
> 4 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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thread-3279 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3279 | How does a 3D printer print itself given the huge size? | 2016-12-26T10:07:44.130 | # Question
Title: How does a 3D printer print itself given the huge size?
How can this be done given that the object to be printed is the same size as itself? In the CubePro printers that I have used before, the object to be printed is inside some kind of glass panel. Only objects that are smaller can be printed.
# Answer
3D printers obviously do not print themselves. 3D printers are sometimes used to make *parts for* other 3D printers, and this is what is meant by "self-replicating" 3D printers (which is a bit of a misnomer, considering that all designs require a substantial amount of non-printed "vitamin" parts).
A printer that is able to produce many of its own parts is the RepRap snappy, which (as the name suggests) consists of plastic parts that - while they each fit within the build volume - snap together to make up the larger parts for the printer.
> 4 votes
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Tags: desktop-printer, replicating-printers
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thread-3285 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3285 | Prusa i3 Z axis not moving up | 2016-12-27T22:12:26.510 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 Z axis not moving up
I just got a Hictop Prusa i3 printer and I have it fully assembled. When I tested out the motors to check them the Z-axis motors were not moving and it was making a grinding sound. I have lifted the screw rods out of the coupling to see if the motor would move the coupling would move and it did. I can move the screw rods manually and it works. How can I make the Z-axis work?
Thank you in Advance!
Edit
Here is the vidoe of the problem https://www.dropbox.com/s/93g0pg0qfhq965d/IMG\_0369.MOV?dl=0
# Answer
> 1 votes
Welcome to the group! A video would help. Or at least some photos.
Are both the motors connected? If you remove them from the coupling do they move? Likely it is binding (too much friction, not level etc) or you need to adjust your voltage controller. I am going to say 80% confident you need to play with the voltage.
Chances are it's just the voltage. I do not know what electronics you have but if they are RAMPS 1.4 then you are looking for these
Also here is the wiki on the 1.4. Just turn the screw gently. One direction will give it more power. The other less. When it has too much power your motors will start making a thud noise.
EDIT post adding the video
Oh yeah that is binding. If you wouldn't mind putting the video on youtube to that the video can help people for years to come? Dropbox is a bit volitle.
I would also in addition to my advice in your other question take a bubble leveler to all the rods. It could be a distortion on your camera but it looks like the rod is a bit bent. Also in my Prusa (original) I used to have to make the motor mounts lose, as it did not fit all that well and had binding issues. Try making the screws loose enough so that they float and can move around a lot. The lead screws are less important to the overall stability.
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Tags: prusa-i3, printer-building, z-axis, motor
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thread-3284 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3284 | Reprap prusa i3 Y and Z axis swapped when printing GCODE files | 2016-12-27T20:34:45.507 | # Question
Title: Reprap prusa i3 Y and Z axis swapped when printing GCODE files
I'm having an issue with my new Prusa i3. (This one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DLIRDFW/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
For some reason the Y and Z axis are swapped when I print Gcode files, even though all the axis move correctly when I manually move them with the interface on the LCD. Also, if I try to print an STL file, the Z axis moves in one direction more than it is actually limited to, and then does the same again in the opposite direction when the print starts.
Anyone know the solutions?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Sounds like your slicing program is not set up right.. Or more likely your printer isn't.
I would use Pronterface
I use simplify 3d, but the best free software is Slic3r.
Try those then report back. Honestly I think you might not have it wired correctly. With pronterface tell it to move X. Then try moving it and manually holding the endstop. Then if it does not stop try going tho incorrect way with that endstop still pressed. If you find that your reversed you will need to correct this with your firmware. If I knew this was a ramps board you could reverse the wires, but lets do it in firmware as I am not buying you a new board.
After that you should work. Software wise we just made sure your interface and your slic3r work and talk the same language. Those two I know will not be doing anything funny. After that report back if it is still not working.
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Tags: fdm, reprap, diy-3d-printer
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thread-3288 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3288 | 3D print Configuration Cura - Anet A8 | 2016-12-28T07:53:40.060 | # Question
Title: 3D print Configuration Cura - Anet A8
I'm new with my 3D printer, I just print two different pawn pieces from thingverse. I just used Cura to convert the files to be readable for the printer. Is my problem with the pieces has to do with the configuration from the Cura software? or with my printer itself?
Update:
I just printed a baymax that came with the SD printer. And it looks awesome. I think the problem is with the configuration from Cura.
# Answer
Underextrusion (as this looks like) could be a extruder problem. The extruders main part is the small gear that pushes the filament through the hotend. There could be lots of reasons for it to fail:
* The motor driving it isn't strong enough. Poorly designed printer (yeah, ultimaker, I'm looking at you). Not very likely. But a geared extruder or motor can improve extrusion.
* You print at to low hotend temp. If you increase the temperature the filament will become more fluid and easier to push out. Increasing the temperature will unfortunately increase risk for clogging and stringing.
* The filament has absorbed moisture. Try drying it.
* You print to fast. Lowering the speed may do the trick. You also have to wait longer (dhu).
* The acutal gear in the extruder is full of filament bits, clean it.
* You don't put enough force on the filament against the gear. Can you tighten it?
* The gear is not hobbed. A hobbed gear will grip the filament better. You might not be able to switch it.
* The filament has become tangled on the spool. Be careful when you handle it to not unroll it. This usually results in that the filament becomes entirely stuck though.
* The nozzle is clogged. See answer from @Tom van der Zanden.
If you don't have a geared extruder you can print one. There are plenty of them on thingiverse. Increase the temp and lower the speed to get this vital part in good quality.
Or you can buy a geared extruder. (I use the titan extruder from e3d) Or you can buy a geared motor.
**How to detect an extrusion problem:**
It is quite easy to hear if you have extrusion problems (at least some of them). The Extruder will make a sound like "drrrr" with regular intervalls as it tries to push through the filament. Almost like a clock ticking but slower. This is the gear slipping against the filament.
**If you don't have an extrusion problem:** Experiment with upping the Material flow rate in your slicer (in your case Cura). Try something like 300%. Stand watch and see what happens.
If this almost fixes the problem, you must calibrate the printers extrusion. It is possible that the already generated Gcode (found on the sd-card) compensates for this.
> 3 votes
# Answer
That looks like horrible underextrusion. Either the extruder steps/mm are way off, but more likely is that your nozzle is clogged (because I wouldn't expect the steps/mm to be this far off). It's also possible that the temperature you're printing at is inappropriate for the filament you're using. Also, make sure that the fan that is cooling the heatsink of the extruder is always on. If not, filament may soften in places it's not supposed to and jam.
Try heating the extruder up and pushing the filament through by hand. You'll probably feel a lot of resistance and the filament won't come out smoothly. You could try doing a couple of cold pulls, that is, put a piece of filament in while the hotend is hot, then let it cool down and attempt to extract the filament at the lowest possible temperature. This may pull debris or particles blocking the nozzle out.
If this doesn't help, there are various other ways of clearing a clog from the nozzle. One popular technique is disassembling the entire hotend and burning out all the debris from the nozzle with a blowtorch. Another is using a special drill bit to clear out the nozzle but this has a high risk of damaging it.
> 5 votes
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Tags: print-quality, fdm, anet-a8
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thread-3291 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3291 | How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer? | 2016-12-28T14:14:56.003 | # Question
Title: How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer?
Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer?
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Since it is thin (one or two layers) it will not warp itself.
The brim is not the same thing as a raft. A raft is under the model. The brim is on the same layer as the models bottom layer but outside the model. It looks something like this:
I assume that you use a heated bed if you have one?
Also, it is imperative that you get a good first layer. Calibrate your machine carefully.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Going to also say you need to provide us with a ton more information. What settings, what temps, what plastic.
That said the best thing I can recommend is doing a Raft for your print. Adding a Fan to your printer. Making sure your heated bed is on. I also like to use gluesticks for PLA, hairspray or Kapton for ABS.
Here is Ultimakers guide to Gluesticks
Here is a guide on rafts and Brims from simplify 3d
Comment on my answer once you provide more information and I will improve my answer.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Try using an adhesive before you print. This could be http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping ... What is the temperature of the room you are printing in like?
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Tags: warping
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thread-3315 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3315 | Why does Cura insert G0 commands between G1 commands while Slic3r doesn't? | 2017-01-04T11:12:29.640 | # Question
Title: Why does Cura insert G0 commands between G1 commands while Slic3r doesn't?
While looking into G-code I was wondering why Cura inserts G0 commands in between G1 commands every other line like this:
```
G1 F2400 X144.612 Y130.187 E1652.56358
G0 F6000 X144.612 Y129.621
G1 F2400 X72.905 Y57.914 E1654.16570
G0 F6000 X73.471 Y57.914
G1 F2400 X144.612 Y129.056 E1655.75518
G0 F6000 X144.612 Y128.490
G1 F2400 X74.036 Y57.914 E1657.33203
G0 F6000 X74.602 Y57.914
G1 F2400 X144.612 Y127.924 E1658.89623
G0 F6000 X144.612 Y127.359
```
It seems like it wants to move to a slightly offset starting position for the next extrusion. I dont understand why, though. It wants to have touching lines as a result, doesn't it?
I do see this making sense in a fill situation, - this section is called 'type: skin'. How does slic3r get away doing infill without this?
Am I correct to read slic3r gcode correctly to use G1 instead of G0 commands for this?
# Answer
Formally, G0 is a rapid move and G1 is a coordinated move. A G1 will cause the printhead to move in a straight line from the begin to the end position, whereas a G0 allows the printhead to move in any curve, so long as it ends up in the target position. Because of acceleration and deceleration constraints, it can sometimes be faster to move in a curve rather than a straight line.
However, I don't think any actually firmware implements this, and a G0 behaves in the exact same way as a G1.
What the piece of G-code you posted is doing is creating a solid infill, which consists of a bunch of parallel lines, each slightly offset from the next:
It makes sense that no material is extruded when it moves from one line to the other, as otherwise too much material would get deposited at the edge.
> 6 votes
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Tags: slicing, ultimaker-cura, slic3r
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thread-3283 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3283 | Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective? | 2016-12-27T17:56:50.160 | # Question
Title: Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective?
I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:
Now I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).
I make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.
EDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs "slicer".
# Answer
Self intersecting meshes are considered dirty, yes. The reason you haven't had trouble before is probably that the software you were using was cleaning your mesh for you, behind the scenes. Generally speaking, these meshes can be cleaned without too much trouble by software like netfabb (https://www.netfabb.com/) which has a nice free version that I use for basic cleaning of some of my meshes. A quick google on "netfabb free fix mesh" should turn up a tutorial or two.
If you're interested in learning more about an operation you can use to make this a *single unified mesh*, it's called a Boolean Union, and the blender project has a nice (open source, I think?) implementation of such: (https://www.blender.org/manual/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html)
> 7 votes
# Answer
You definitely need to get rid of the self-intersecting meshes in order to be able to 3D print your object. I would personally recommend you try MakePrintable: automatically clean these type of meshes.
Makeprintable is a cloud service (your model is uploaded to their servers and processed there) currently in beta. You need to sign up but it is free (and they state that they will keep it free).
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can download MeshLab from https://sourceforge.net/projects/meshlab/ and use it to head stls.
This video has healing instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLGIRAgLz4w
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, ultimaker-cura, simplify3d
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thread-3319 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3319 | Display crashed/corrupted on AnyCubic Prusa I3 clone | 2017-01-04T20:51:48.140 | # Question
Title: Display crashed/corrupted on AnyCubic Prusa I3 clone
I've recently completed assembly of an AnyCubic Prusa clone. It's working, but having some issues. My prime concern at this point is the LCD display. It occasionally becomes "corrupted" for want of a better term (see image) and no longer responds to the control. It's done this unattended in the middle of a print attempt, which means I can't pause it to remove the imminently dripping filament from the leaking extruder (another issue I'm dealing with).
So three questions I guess...
Is this a typical problem?
What's the likely culprit (main board, display, firmware)?
How to fix it?
I'm working with AnyCubic's tech support, such as it is, and wondering if I need to push them for replacement hardware. Thanks!
# Answer
> 1 votes
Issues like this are often caused by the length of the ribbon cable connecting to display to the board, or by its vicinity to other wires. Try routing the ribbon cable away from other wires, and use a shorter one if possible.
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Tags: prusa-i3
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thread-3310 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3310 | Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print | 2017-01-03T19:32:29.657 | # Question
Title: Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print
I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.
After restarting, I can load and extrude filament.
I have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the freeze still occurs.
Likewise, I've regenerated the x3g file, and that did not work.
The panel does not freeze, I can cancel the print during the freeze.
I've made sure Z pause is off. It tends freezes randomly on the first layer.
In general, it looks as though the print is "in progress" but not making progress (Timer ticks up, % completed does not)
Does anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem?
# Answer
> 1 votes
There are a few options. First your board could be overheating etc. That is harder to verify without some overpriced replacements. So to start lets take everything apart (photo and labeling is Strongly recommended). Then simply put it back together. Hopefully it is just a loose connection.
# Answer
> 1 votes
By "stops executing" do you mean that the extruder stops extruding but continues to run through the motions? or does the entire machine lock up?
If your extruder stops depositing plastic, then I would suggest checking your settings. Specifically retraction distance, filament diameter (compered with your actual filament diameter) and temperatures. Sometimes bumping up the extruder temp 5 degrees can fix this issue.
If all that's ok, then I'd suggest possibly swapping your extruder nozzle, if it has a bur inside from manufacturing then this could be causing too much pressure and the nozzle gets clogged.
IF however the extruder gantry freezes up and the z-axis keeps pulling away, I'd suggest calling maker bot directly as this would be more of a serious hardware issue, likely covered under warranty.
Good luck!
# Answer
> 0 votes
After removing the front panel and the bottom protector plate (the one that protects the controller board) and firmly pressing every connector, the issue corrected itself. It seems that something was loose, and that causes the freeze behavior.
# Answer
> -1 votes
Seems like others have had similar issues: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849. Their issue was a bit more mechanical than firmware, though. I hope this helps!
You might also want to check the software you're using to slice the file. Sometimes the software doesn't slice the file properly, which causes problems mid-print.
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Tags: makerbot
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thread-1099 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1099 | Makerbot Replicator 2 switches off and restarts automatically | 2016-05-04T14:32:39.200 | # Question
Title: Makerbot Replicator 2 switches off and restarts automatically
My Makerbot replicator 2 stops and restarts automatically. I lose the print and the extruder head does not move from the position. (obviously). We have checked wiring a few times. Have not seen any issues so far. Maybe I am missing something. We have recently changed the ceramic tapes, fans etc. just recently.
It happens once in a while. But once it starts, it continuous, and it doesnt stop unless we shut it down for a few hours. or sometimes even days.
Any ideas what the issue could be. Or are more details required.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I've heard of a few issues like this, always relating to hardware problems. If you feel comfortable opening up the hardware on your machine, confirm that all of your connections are firmly connected to your printers Circuit Cards. The issues i've dealt with I determined came from a loose connection and the gantry running would shake the connections enough to cause a loss of signal.
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Tags: makerbot
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thread-3338 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3338 | First layer lines don't stick at all | 2017-01-06T10:27:13.293 | # Question
Title: First layer lines don't stick at all
My Ultimaker 1 with a heated bed doesn't print good first layer lines at all. The single lines keep detaching from the printbed, no matter what nozzle or bed temperature or the height of printhead from printbed. I cleaned the printbed thouroughly, too. It worked a while ago, I don't know what I am doing wrong.
Data:
Ultimaker 1 with Heated Printbed (Glass) PLA @ 200°/60°
This is how it looks like after removing a print (one and a half layers) from the printbed. It is quite thick though.
# Answer
This looks a bit like your build plate isn't level. I'd suggest re-leveling using feeler gauges.
> 0 votes
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Tags: print-quality, ultimaker-original
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thread-3344 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3344 | Calibrating steps/order | 2017-01-06T18:57:51.237 | # Question
Title: Calibrating steps/order
Does anybody have an overview of what things should be calibrated (and in what order) for a certain 3d printer or after changing the printing material?
I only know about:
How to calibrate/determine the maximum speeds or accelerations?
# Answer
> 1 votes
How to Calibrate. Oh man that is a good 2-3 page long blog post.. So I will try to give you the bullet point section.
High level
* Mechanical
* Firmware
* Software
* repeat
Mechanical Level everything. Bed. The X axis. Make sure there is no binding, etc. Also make sure the surface you are on is flat before leveling the printer by it.
Firmware Get that printer moving. This is where you do you Steps per MM. I like Triffids guide.
Now is when you go into the software and start setting your slicer settings. This includes your filament measurements etc. You should go back 2-3 times between this step and the previous to make sure your extruding EXACTLY what you think you are. As mentioned by others filament calculation is hard. You need to measure across a lot of material. Take the averages. You will never get it perfect as the plastic is never perfect. Picking a solid supplier is a factor here too.
Once you think you have that all working. Repeat. Start at step one.
After your done looping though you will start with the slicer calibrations. Which is the meat of your question. You will take collections like this one or this one and tweak settings until you can pass each test. Do your tests in this order
1. single wall test
2. hollow cube
3. solid cube Here is a Bonus solid cube
4. bridging test (honestly I rarely do this one..)
5. part fitting test
Now for testing when switching material. Honestly its best to start with their settings, and tweak them. I like to have a spread sheet of xy speed, Z lift, temps. Massage it till you are happy. The firmware settings like jerk and acceleration will be less of a factor between materials. Get it perfect once and don't touch it (till you decide it is not perfect).
You will be testing the new material with the same STLs as I mentioned in the precious section. You also might want to look into Simplify 3d (no affiliation) if you get really into it. Also SAVE THE SETTINGS. Nothing sucks more then losing all this work and having to recreate these profiles for materials. Do not trust slic3r to back them up, or to not randomly delete them. Hard lesson there.
Far as max speeds and accelleration..
Max speed will really be a function of how fast can you hear up plastic. If you have a e3d with Volcano mod you can really crank the speed up. So you go to the point where your extruder just cannot hit target temps AND you are unable to print solid infill. Far as acceleration and jerk. When you knock your extruder causing your print to shift, then you know it is accelerating / jerking too hard.
Best of luck! Let me know if I can clear up a section for you.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Recalibrating your machine for the new filament diameter is a good idea. Filament diameters vary slightly between manufacturers.
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Tags: calibration
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thread-3353 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3353 | Calculating extruder motor steps for 1 mm | 2017-01-07T21:09:20.083 | # Question
Title: Calculating extruder motor steps for 1 mm
I would like to calculate the amount of steps to turn the motor to have 1 mm of the filament.
I did the following (using approximate values):
The gear on the outside of the teeth as a diameter of 11mm. Therefore the circumference is 34.56mm. Divided into one degree i get 0.096mm / degree. The stepper does 1.8 degree per step which results in 0.1728mm per step.
To get 1mm of filament pushed into the extruder I will have to do 5.787 steps.
The same extruder is in a Geeetech i3. The firmware there is configured to do 93 steps per millimeter.
I don't have any experience in working with stepper motors but in theory, this would be my approach with a huge difference to an existing firmware.
Where is my mistake?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Microstepping. Your board likely has 16x microstepping, so that each step is divided up into 16 parts. Your 5.787 figure, when multiplied by 16, comes out to 92.6 steps/mm - matching the value in your firmware.
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Tags: filament, extruder
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thread-3356 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3356 | Identifying PLA/PETG or ABS | 2017-01-08T18:50:41.707 | # Question
Title: Identifying PLA/PETG or ABS
I received a roll of Black filament as a present, and struggled to print with it, experiencing extreme under-extrusion (and slippage of the hobbed gear). Higher temperatures seemed to work better, particularly in freeing up the extrude rate.
The filament is advertised as PLA, but without any temperature recommendations that I can find on the vendor's website (or the amazon listing). Amazon reviews have a fairly wide range of temperatures, but the listing aggregates several colours. There is a suggestion that the filament may be PETG, or ABS.
I have tried using acetone, and it dissolves roughly the same as some ABS I have, my PLA shows some weakening but doesn't dissolve.
Below about 215°C, extrusion is borderline non-existent. I printed at 225°C with a fan, and it extruded kind of OK, but adhesion was poor. 240° without a fan seems a bit on the hot side (see photo). Even 255°C seems to extrude OK without burning. There is no smell I can observe (but I have a cold). It burns with a small blue flame, and minimal smell (kind of like natural gas).
One factor against it being ABS is that with the bed at 60°C, printing both a benchy and the heat tower below, there was no warping. Bed adhesion remained good.
Is there anything I can do to better identify this filament and decide the best combination of fan/temperature without wasting too much time?
255° to 225° heat tower, seems different to the ABS i've used:
# Answer
> 3 votes
There is a trick. However I would like to mention that chances are that the random spool you pickup from most stores, especially no name brands, are either completely lying to you about its material or is mixed / cut with cheaper fillers. All about finding a good brand. Course rarely does one actually need pure PLA, a mixed material will often perform as well without you even noticing. Aside from the temp difference. Not to say it is right.
Now the trick is this. While I don't advise ever breathing in potentially carcinogenic plastic smoke. You take a lighter. Burn it. If it smells sweet it is PLA.
From this link from digital trends about PLA VS ABS you can see why it has this smell.
> The thermoplastic is also more pleasant on the nose, as the sugar-based material smells slightly sweet when heated opposed to the harsh smell often associated with ABS. However, while PLA might seem like a better overall choice at first glance, it features a far lower melting point than ABS.
Also not responsible if you burn yourself or your property. At your own risk.
Just warming it with lighter might work too. But just burning a small section. It will be real clear.
Or you could just drop a bit into aceton and see if it melts. PLA will mostly just look like crud after being treated is aceton. ABS is 100% dissolve.
We see from these forums that PETG does not dissolve via Aceton. So you can test you material. If it does disolve it is ABS. If it smells sweet when burned it is PLA. If it melts at 240 and does not dissolve it is likely PETG.
We are a bit lost on a test for PETG. However we do know its melting point. Which is 240-260c. I would say it is likely you have ABS
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Once we know the material we can get to the meat of your question.
Best way to proceed is to start with simple calibration prints. The thin wall. Cube, and part fitting. Once those pass you are good to go. Other than buying simplify3d I do not know of any short cuts. Back when I used slic3r I kept a spread sheet. I would change a temp by 5 degrees and give it a quality score. Repeat with speeds. Far as fan, I would expect that it wont effect much. Maybe need to calibrate your PIDs.
Once you have it dialed in, all you will need to do is calibrate the temp when switching materials. Remember you need to calibrate even between different colors (okay its best to.. I often skip) I usually do the temp adjustments live on the printer. Increase and degrease a few degrees. For me the goal is to have the plastic as cool as possible. That allows for highest quality prints (ie less oozing and such)
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Tags: filament, part-identification
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thread-365 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/365 | Why is CLIP so much faster than SLA? | 2016-01-21T21:25:07.313 | # Question
Title: Why is CLIP so much faster than SLA?
Stereolithography produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light on the top of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. CLIP produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light through the bottom of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. This seems like a minor difference, yet CLIP is reportedly much faster (I've seen numbers as high as 100x). Why is this?
# Answer
> 12 votes
It's important to understand what specifically is being compared. **CLIP is much faster than bottom-up technologies that require a peel step between every layer.** For example, the Form1 galvo SLA printer tilts the resin vat to separate the transparent bottom from the print. That is, by far, the slowest part of SLA/DLP printing with most modern light sources. Where the speed comes in is that without a peel, a continuous "movie" can be used to cure the resin rather than a series of alternating images and peels.
Top-down printers can print dramatically faster than bottom-up-and-peel printers. CLIP is not necessarily faster than top-down. For example, the Gizmo 3D line of top-down printers are very similar in print speed to CLIP. (http://www.gizmo3dprinters.com.au/)
Most "consumer" SLA printers these days use bottom-up-and-peel techniques, because this has some practical advantages over top-down printers:
* Way less resin is required to fill the printer when the part is pulled out as it builds rather than being lowered into the tank (along with the Z stage) as it builds. Resin is expensive. This also means bottom up printers can be smaller and have fewer mechanical parts such as leveling devices submerged in resin.
* Standard resins contain an inhibitor chemical that prevents polymerization in the presence of oxygen, which causes the surface layer exposed to air (and low-level stray light) to not cure. So top-down printers must shoot light through a non-curing layer before reaching curable resin. This makes the tuning more sensitive and can somewhat reduce detail compared to a bottom-up printer curing right on the window.
* Replacement vats or windows for bottom-up printers may be seen by manufacturers as a profit-generating consumable, since they have to be replaced somewhat frequently.
* Top-down printers have to worry somewhat more about resin flow rates as the part is lowered. Air bubbles may be pulled into the resin or the fresh resin layer above the part may vary significantly in thickness if the part is submerged too fast for the resin viscosity. (Admittedly, bottom-up printers will experience excessive suction forces and potentially break off bits of the print at high peel speeds.)
CLIP is a bottom-up technique that doesn't require a peel step, because the vat creates an oxygen layer over the window that keeps the resin from curing directly on the surface and sticking. In that way, it arguably performs more like a top-down printer than a bottom-up printer.
Top-down printers that are designed to overcome the above issues and use high-intensity light sources can achieve exceptionally high print speeds. This includes similar "continuous" build techniques used as in CLIP.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The number of 100x could be true in some situations. I wish I could see the part(s) that they printed to measure this 100x, but that is another story.
Looking at their videos they can move the build plate at a maximum speed of 10mm per minute. You will see the Eiffel tower video where they have to change over to standard speed for flat layers. It is because the flat layers stop resin flow and can't be printed using continuous printing.
Prodways have shown that they can move it at 20mm per minute, but again there are things that are not advertised/mentioned. To achieve higher speeds you need to make the resins more reactive. Making resins more reactive means the resins won't last as long in the vat/bottle. So they expire sooner. It also means they could harden under normal light conditions so it makes it difficult to work with. If you look at the Prodways video you will see resin waste on the build plate. That shows that the projector brightness was set too high.
Gizmo can print between 5 and 25 times faster than a leading brand of SLA printers, also depends on the number of parts and complexity on the build plate. The decision was made to advertise the build plate moving speed, e.g. 3mm per minute, rather than the number of times faster than anything else, because that is a value that doesn't change with the number of items on the build plate, but it does change depending on the projection area size.
Imagine you just have a single line going upwards then most SLA printers could do it at the same speed. B9 Creator (bottom up) users have actually shown they can do continuous printing when printing really tiny items with very thin walls, because they don't have suction problems in those situations.
Now when you add many small objects with small features on the build plate DLP printers will display the full layer in one go where laser based SLA machines need to draw out each part like an FDM machine.
Continuous printing does have limitations. Resin needs to flow from the bottom or you will get resin starvation and cause holes so you might not be able to use it for everything. You should see it as another tool in your printing toolbox rather than the be all and end all.
So after all that, the 100x depends on so many things, you shouldn't get stuck at looking at that number other than knowing it is a way of marketing the printers.
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Tags: clip, sla
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thread-3361 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3361 | 3d prints come up with ribbing on one side | 2017-01-09T03:42:51.423 | # Question
Title: 3d prints come up with ribbing on one side
The right side of my prints always have the standard ribbing effect given by a bent z rod, however I have replaced the rod and there was no change. Here are pictures of one of my more recent prints: and the left side of that same print: As you can see the left is almost unaffected the right is the only side with the error. Anyone have any ideas about this?
# Answer
Hmmmm In my experience when a printer has that bad of wobble it is still the Z axis. Your rods might be good, but are the two Z axis the *exact* correct distance and equal distance on the printer frame? Imagine that you had one a few millimeters too far out. How might the rods act? Mayhaps, over the course of several layers, they would slowly drift back and forth? Creating a period effect on your print? What do the top of the rods do over time? Do they move a lot if you go from height 0 to 100mm on z?
I have a few ideas. What happens if you loosen you Z motors so they can move around their mount? I had to do that on my Prusa back in the day. I think for that machine the Belt was actually too tight causing the issue. Current printers are usually better designed so its unlikely that is your issue. Also measure the distance between the top of the rods when the carriage is at 0, and at max. You should see very little variance.
If it was on both sides I would say it was bad PID calibration. IE this simplify 3d link
Though you can see on this forum the fellow had a bad coupler. So still mechanical.
Also could be back lash / belt lash.. but unlikely
> 6 votes
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, z-axis
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thread-3300 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3300 | Retainer for PTFE in throat | 2016-12-30T23:47:10.123 | # Question
Title: Retainer for PTFE in throat
I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this question. It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth exploring).
I was wondering about the advisability of using a retainer to apply some pressure at the cold end - a nut with a washer soldered on maybe.
My goal is to prevent the teflon tube from rising up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6).
However, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without modification.
# Answer
In this case I would like to first recommend replacing your PTFE tube with a better quality product. Unfortunately, the quality:price ratio is as to be expected here. My reasoning:
PTFE has great thermal properties for a polymer, just like ABS. In fact, the glass-transition state begins at relatively the same temperature between the two materials. ABS starts transitioning at about 105°C and about 127°C for PTFE.
However PTFE, traditionally, has a much higher melting point at about 327°C as opposed to the usual 125° we use in 3D printing.
**My Point**: I think the hardware you currently have has low-quality PTFE.
PTFE can be recycled for re-use in other PTFE products. In recycled PTFE, you can lose a lot of the desired properties in the material (true for any material). This includes both the ideal "friction-less" and thermal resistance we need in 3D Printing.
**What I think happened:** The higher print temperatures of ABS transitioned the PTFE into its glass-state. As the throat expands, the path of least resistance in the assembly is towards the extruder motor since the nozzle holds more pressure.
**I would not recommend "fixing" this problem with a retainer!** By forcing the PTFE throat to stay in position, you could potentially force the PTFE to expand in other ways. Most likely resulting in constricting the filament, leading to grinding of filament on the drive gear and clogging of the nozzle. Worst case, you end up with gooey PTFE in your nozzle and/or around your retainer.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I see, you want to Block the tefflon tube from going Up and Out of the extruder. Yes I see no reason why you would not fid a nut cap. Drill a hole and have it work. There is likely a special nut cap with a pre existing hole in it already but I decided the keywords was asking for bad results on a work computer.
The only thing I can see happening is you will 1) possibly not have the clearance. 2) have a larger thermal mass.
> 0 votes
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Tags: extruder
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thread-3363 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3363 | Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink | 2017-01-09T16:06:26.000 | # Question
Title: Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink
I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink.
Talking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.
Is it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Getting hot air from the radiator is definitely wrong idea because of few reasons:
1. hot air can damage your fan (as they are usually not heatproof). Cold air cools the fan
2. cold air is denser so fan can suck more cold air than hot air so cooling is more efficient (fig A)
3. in terms of plug of radiator (with dust) it's much better to try to push cold air into plugged fan (fig C) than to suck the air from it (fig B). When flow is decreased there is higher possibility to damage the fan as it doesn't cool itself
Of course we are talking about 3D printers with small plastic fans. Please notice (almost) all fans construction: they are designed to get air from the top of the fan and push it to the bottom (this construction prevents damaging/plugging fan motor by dust)... and their mounting wholes (or clips) are usually... naturally suggesting to direct air to the heatsink)
# Answer
> 1 votes
In the case of 3D Printing, it's going to be faster to cool the radiator by blowing out the heat from the source.
The idea is that you're trying to get rid of as much heat as possible in the quickest means possible. By blowing away from the radiator, you're allowing the ambient temperature to cool the hot air being blown out.
If you were to blow the ambient air towards the radiator, the blown air will warm slightly as it is overwhelmed by the heat of the radiator. Even though the ambient air may be cooler, it will take more time to cool off the radiator.
Example of bad airflow, which will take much longer to cool the radiator:
Example of good airflow, allowing the hot air to be quickly cooled by the ambient temperature of the build space:
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Tags: hotend, cooling
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thread-3370 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3370 | 3D printing a cardboard box | 2017-01-09T20:30:13.633 | # Question
Title: 3D printing a cardboard box
Is there an FDM 3D printing material that looks similar to a cardboard box? I guess, and understand, it would not be possible to 3D print a cardboard box but would there be something similar?
# Answer
The closest thing you will find is Woodfill plastic. As time goes on we are seeing more and more PLA that is infused with other materials. Woodfill will look and feel like waxy wood. We are pretty used to seeing fiber boards and the like so this will not come off as odd. However it is not quite cardboard, except that it is also a wood product. It will also smell of wood.
Here is a close up of a beyond exceptional wood fill printed piece. There is also other types of wood fill including bamboo.
I mean if you want Cardboard.. Why not a laser cutter? While you can get a MUCH cheaper laser cutter, the glowforge comes to mind.
> 5 votes
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Tags: material, print-material
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thread-3373 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3373 | How do I enable Expert mode in the Craftware slicer? | 2017-01-10T02:12:06.417 | # Question
Title: How do I enable Expert mode in the Craftware slicer?
I'm using craftware, and I'm trying to figure out how to enable expert mode so that I can adjust the extruder/bed temps. I looked all over the application, the user manual, and googled it, but I cannot find the setting to enable it. Any help is appreciated.
# Answer
I figured it out, you must click the slice button, then among those options, there is s button to switch to Expert mode. Hope this helps someone in the future.
> 3 votes
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-3377 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3377 | Prusa i3 jerking during printing | 2017-01-11T01:25:05.050 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 jerking during printing
I have a Prusa i3 and during the print, it will start jerking which makes a noise that sounds like something is going wrong. At first, I thought it was the infill since there is a gap in between the layers which this picture shows (I have ripped off the bad layers to see if I can get any use out of it. The video shows the bad layers). For reference the "wall" along the outside is 2.1 mm.
Then about 70% of the way through the print, the Y layers started to shift so I thought that the jerking was a result of this. This is a video of what is happening https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1afjwyzl8hqej9/IMG\_0403.MOV?dl=0
So is this the infill that is causing the jerking or is there something that I should fix on the printer that will stop jerking? Thank you!
# Answer
Well that is unique. I would say if you only see this after the printer has been running a while then your electronics are likely overheating. Put a fan on it and report back.
Otherwise and also I would reflash the electronics..
> 2 votes
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, y-axis
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thread-3383 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3383 | Marlin, end stops, and position report - possible bug? | 2017-01-11T20:56:10.890 | # Question
Title: Marlin, end stops, and position report - possible bug?
Am seeing the following behavior in Marlin:
When moving the printhead, if an end stop is hit, a position report (M114) erroneously reports the print head position as where it was *trying* to go, as opposed to where it's position *actually* is.
For example (using pronsole):
```
> M114
X:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:1.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:1260
> G0 Z100
endstops hit: Z:16.88
> M114
X:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:100.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:21263
```
In this example, the Z endstop was hit at (z:16.88), but the printer appears to think it is at the target location (z:100).
The "Count" Z appears to remain accurate however.
Question: Is this a bug in Marlin, or is this correct behavior and I am misunderstanding something?
# Answer
Some info on the subject: few stepper motors have any way of knowing their exact position during operation, which means Marlin will have to assume the steppers always are in the right place.
In other words, all g-code commands are executed *relative to their current position*, not with regards to the real positions. So if you forcefully move the printhead during print, the printer will just continue printing the same patterns in mid-air (this is basically what is called *layer shifting*).
The only way the printer can know the real position of the steppers is when the endpoint switches are triggered. This is why the *homing* action is done to before prints in order to reset the internal positional bookkeeping of the steppers in Marlin. So if the endpoints are triggered without the printer actually being at the endstops, you will seriously confuse Marlin.
I agree that is sounds weird that Marlin does not reset the positions of it's steppers when an endstop is triggered (during print?), but then again, if it happens accidentally (and not as part of a re-calibration procedure), I believe the default actions should be to abort all operation since this would indicate the printer being out of control. Perhaps there simply is no routine to handle movement after the program has been aborted - a situation where probably nothing would be right anyway..
> 3 votes
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Tags: marlin, firmware, motor
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thread-3375 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3375 | Padded Sketch comprises too many solids (FreeCAD) | 2017-01-10T06:23:03.147 | # Question
Title: Padded Sketch comprises too many solids (FreeCAD)
Under FreeCAD, I sketched on the face of a solid as follows :
My problem is, when I use "Pad a selected sketch", the solid created comprises also the original solid.
It prevents me, for instance, to get the difference with the first one.
Any idea what may be causing this? How to prevent it?
MyFreeCAD config:
```
OS: Ubuntu 16.04.1 LTS
Word size of OS: 64-bit
Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit
Version: 0.15.4671 (Git)
Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-15
Hash: 244b3aef360841646cbfe80a1b225c8b39c8380c
Python version: 2.7.11
Qt version: 4.8.7
Coin version: 4.0.0a
OCC version: 6.8.0.oce-0.17
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
Ok, I got help on this forum thread
Using `Part Extrude` instead of `Pad a selected sketch` on the sketch will create an independent solid.
It also turns out that, instead of creating the second solid to do a boolean difference, the good way to "cut" my solid is using the `PartDesign Pocket` tool.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you just select the face, and pad the face (versus padding the solid), you should not have this problem.
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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thread-3388 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3388 | How are things like a USB casing designed for 3D printing? | 2017-01-12T23:24:57.273 | # Question
Title: How are things like a USB casing designed for 3D printing?
How are professional or regular products designed on the computer for manufacturing?
Do they do it by making a 3D model and then getting it made by manufacturers/plastic factories, or the process is different?
If it's by making 3D models then what kind of programs do they use - Regular 3D software like blender?
I also understand that you can get a 3D model printed by 3d printing services, but are they the same as mass manufacturing companies, by that they make the product by 3D models.
# Answer
> 8 votes
3D printing provides a faster method for **prototyping** and have always been labeled as prototyping machines. Until recently, it has been rare to see 3D printers used for "mass manufacturing".
Yes, most mass-produced products start the manufacturing process with a 3D model. 3D models can be created in many different applications such as Solidworks, AutoCAD, Unigraphics, Blender, even Sketchup just to name a few.
In product development, the 3D model will then go through prototyping. **Rapid prototyping** can be done using a 3D printer by utilizing cheap materials and almost no labor cost.
Here are a few costs that can be associated with the different prototyping methods.
# Traditional Prototyping
(Typically involving "traditional", subtractive manufacturing methods such as CNC mills, lathes, routers, etc.)
* CAM programming
* Fixturing
* CNC Machine Setup
* CNC Operating/Labor
# Rapid Prototyping
(Typically involving a 3D printer or other additive manufacturing methods)
* Model preparation (for slicing)
* Printing Operation
* Object post-processing
+ Removal of supports
+ Curing/Cleaning of part (for non-FDM/FFF printing methods)
Once a prototype is produced, the designer will adjust the 3D model accordingly based on results of the prototype. This process will be repeated until the prototype is adequate for the purpose of the end product.
When the product design is ready for mass production, it will go through traditional manufacturing methods such as:
* CNC Machining (subtractive)
+ Mill
+ Lathe
+ Router
+ Laser
+ etc.
* Injection Molding
* etc.
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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thread-3410 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3410 | Has anyone used a Shield Buddy (en lieu of a Arduino Mega2560) as the RAMPS 1.4 host board? | 2017-01-16T21:09:56.540 | # Question
Title: Has anyone used a Shield Buddy (en lieu of a Arduino Mega2560) as the RAMPS 1.4 host board?
I have read a few times<sup>1</sup> that the Arduino Mega can struggle to perform the tasks required for 3D printer control, as the AVR chip is working at its limits, and this is why some manufacturers have moved away from the ATmega2560, to make custom (and integrated) controller boards using ARM processors.
Having just seen the latest answer to this question, Multithreading with the Arduino, on the Arduino SE site, I wondered if anyone had used a Shield Buddy in conjunction with the standard RAMPS 1.4 board?
It is pin for pin compatible with the Arduino Mega (and Arduino IDE compatible - once the appropriate add-ons have been installed), but it has a much faster three core processor. Obviously only one core would be used, leaving the other two idling, but even so the performance is *apparently* much better.
See Bringing Multicore To The Arduino World With ShieldBuddy TC275.
If anyone has experience of using this board, I would like to know whether it was successful or not? I don't see why it should not, although the Marlin firmware would need recompiling, for the Aurix TC275 processor. Would any improvement be seen? Is it worth paying the high price tag of £89?
---
<sup>1</sup> One of the places was 3D Printering: Electronics boards:
> While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the ordinary.
# Answer
It's not quite as simple as you would suggest.
You can't just recompile Marlin for another device. You'd need to rewrite large parts of it. It may be compatible with the Arduino IDE, but that doesn't mean you can just run firmware intended for the AtMega2560 on it. All the timings (e.g. those of the pulses sent to the stepper motors) would be off, if you managed to get it to compile at all.
As some examples, here are some pieces of code from Marlin that would be broken, as they're written directly in AVR assembly:
```
#define DELAY_1_NOP __asm__("nop\n\t")
#define DELAY_2_NOP __asm__("nop\n\t" "nop\n\t")
[...]
// ensure 100ns delay - a bit extra is fine
asm("nop");//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz
asm("nop");//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz
[...]
#define MultiU24X32toH16(intRes, longIn1, longIn2) \
asm volatile ( \
"clr r26 \n\t" \
"mul %A1, %B2 \n\t" \
"mov r27, r1 \n\t" \
"mul %B1, %C2 \n\t" \
"movw %A0, r0 \n\t" \
"mul %C1, %C2 \n\t" \
"add %B0, r0 \n\t" \
"mul %C1, %B2 \n\t" \
"add %A0, r0 \n\t" \
"adc %B0, r1 \n\t" \
```
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, arduino-mega-2650, hardware
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thread-3312 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3312 | Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4 | 2017-01-03T21:21:46.437 | # Question
Title: Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4
I have a derivative of the P3Steel v4, which is not the Irobri design but another version (I'm not entirely sure which), from Poland: Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS.
I have assembled the frame, following this guide, manual\_p3steel\_xl, only to be left with one part, which is the long thin rod, which has a small hole, only in one end (the hole is marked by the big arrow in the image below):
This part obviously goes into the slots at the bottom of the Z axis arms, as shown by the curved arrows.
However:
* Which way around does the part go?
* Should the small hole be on the left or the right hand side, when looking at the printer from the front?
* Also, what exactly is the hole for? Is it just for a zip tie, and to be used to keep the cables (maybe from the heated bed (power and thermistor)) tidy?
I have looked at a number of other photos and videos for the P3Steel frame, and none of them clarify which way around, or how, the rod should be fitted. The bar is either omitted completely, or the image is not clear enough to show the correct orientation.
The guide does not show this part being used, although it clearly shows the slots for it in the Z axis arms, in a number of the pictures, such as here:
# Answer
> 1 votes
This is half of an answer. I have finally received an answer from my supplier, which says:
> Long thin rod is mounted as in the photo. I do not know what is a small hole.
So the small hole is still a mystery.
Here is the photo that was included with the message (which confirms my placement, just not the orientation):
---
**Update**
As tjb1 points out in his comment, the hole can be clearly seen on the right hand side of the bar, in the eBay photo:
---
Tags: printer-building, p3steel
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thread-3332 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3332 | Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part? | 2017-01-05T18:57:51.187 | # Question
Title: Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?
Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:
The X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.
A photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:
My question is: Does this part need to be custom made?
The short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a "smooth rod, with grooved ends"? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.
I have contacted the supplier of the frame, Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS, and I am awaiting a reply.
This missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.
---
### Additional images
This image shows the "exploded view" and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:
Here are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -
Front view:
Side view:
This images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder.
# Answer
You could look up a Clevis pin with one groove.
You could look up a Clevis pin with a hole for a split pin.
Perhaps a Shoulder screw with a ground shank and a low profile head.
Use a plain rod with Dome caps if you will not need to remove often.
If available an internal threaded Standoff would work.
A Slotted spring pin may work if the hole dimensions are suitable.
**EDIT:**
You could also cut the grooves yourself pretty easily. Cut a section of 8mm rod to length and mount it into a drill chuck so it stick out 2-3mm 1/8". Hold a hacksaw at the edge of the chuck and run the drill for a minute with gentle pressure, try hacksaw on other side or reverse direction if nothing is happening.
A hardened rod will cut better with a Dremel type cut-off disk
> 2 votes
# Answer
Oh fascinating. It took me a while to figure out what exactly that is. It is a smooth rod used as the idler for the X belt.
What I would do is get a bearing / wheel. Take a thicker screw, nut and washer. Put the idler / bearing / wheel into the slot, then fit the screw / nut. Should work without any issue!
That said they likely had some sort of special fitting etc. Doesn't matter so long as the belt can move without wearing.
This Thingiverse does exactly what I am thinking.
As you have a low profile need due to the interesting design I came across this. a TNF8 - Nut Sert - Flanged/Ribbed.
Or you may just need a standard low profile nut. Not like you need it to do more than hold it in..
> 1 votes
# Answer
I have finally received a reply from my supplier, which backs up StarWind's answer:
> I did not use a rod with grooves for retaining rings.
>
> I used bolts and nuts with a thin head.
Doesn't really answer my question though, as I really rather hanker after the 8 mm smooth rod with the circlip grooves.
> 1 votes
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Tags: printer-building, p3steel
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thread-3346 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3346 | Dimensions off on final part | 2017-01-06T19:24:53.300 | # Question
Title: Dimensions off on final part
I'm experiencing an issue with my Makerbot Replicator 2X (2000+ hours printing). The dimensions of my final part are smaller than what is initially modeled. My parts have been coming out roughly 0.3mm smaller than what is initially modeled. Is this a common issue or does this sound more like I may have a hardware issue?
I've confirmed that all my belts are tensioned properly and lubricated correctly. I haven't seen a calibration step that would correct for this issue short of manually scaling my parts to correct for the offset. The offset appears to only occur in the XY axis, never seems to happen in Z though
Example: In the part modeled I had the width designed to be 35 mm (face to face, parallel walls). It doesn't seem to matter what size of part I have the final dimensions always seem to be off by about the same amount.
# Answer
Yup that is what happens. It is simply the plastic cooling and shrinking. It will happen on just about any printer. 0.3mm on a what 40mm part. That is 99.3% on target.
There are some great blog links about it, and here is a Stack overflow where I talk about it more in detail.
The only mitigations I can think of is 1) use a hear chamber. 2) use a SLA 3d printer.
I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure your designs have good tolerances.
> 1 votes
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Tags: makerbot, calibration
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thread-3324 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3324 | Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try | 2017-01-05T02:22:18.017 | # Question
Title: Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try
I'm new to 3d printing, so I might be missing something obvious. If so, please let me know.
I printed my model successfully yesterday, but today I'm trying to print the same model and the first layer refuses to adhere, which means at best several layers after that are messed up if it manages to recover, but usually it just means I have to cancel and start again.
It will print one horizontal line (across the x axis), then when it tries to vertical line (across the y axis) the horizontal line doesn't adhere and gets dragged along with the print head and everything is screwed up.
I've tried leveling the bed over and over again. (I use a sheet of paper and try to slip it between the bed and printhead. I adjust the bed so that I feel a bit of resistance as I push and pull the paper under the printhead.)
I've tried increasing the preheat on the printhead and on the bed. I'm using black PLA 1.75mm that says it has a print temp of 205-225. I've tried printing at 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225. I've tried a bed temp of 50, 55, 60, 65, and 70.
I've tried setting the print speed multiplier to 0.5 to give it time to adhere, but no changes.
I'm trying to print something a wireframe cube that is at the extent of my printable size, so I don't know of a way to use a raft or a brim to help adhesion.
This is what my model looks like:
When I printed a good one yesterday, here is what the first two lines looked like:
When I print today, even after multiple attempts to level the bed, this is what the first layer tends to look like:
I'm using a Monoprice 15365. I created my model in SketchUp, then exported as STL, which I imported into Cura 2.3.1. Then I used Cura to export a gcode file to an SD card. I put the SD card into my 3d printer and printed from there.
Any advice is welcome. I don't know if the problems I'm having are because the bed is too low or too high or too hot or too cold or if the printhead is too hot or too cold... nothing I've tried seems to change the results.
# Answer
Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief. I spent a bunch of time watching YouTube videos about 3D printing and I started to notice a difference in size of the lines of plastic being laid down on the build plate.
In the videos, the lines of plastic looked bigger. Mine were very fine lines. That lead me down a series of different search terms until I found some other videos that talked about nozzle cleaning.
I noticed that one of the symptoms they mentioned was that when the plastic would come out of the nozzle that it would curve around. That's a sign that it's partially blocked and causing it to bend and curve. After the people in the YouTube videos cleaned their nozzle, the plastic would then extrude and drop straight down.
If my nozzle was partially blocked and only about half the right amount of plastic was coming out that would make sense since there wouldn't be enough surface area of the plastic to make a good connection to the build surface.
I acquired some 0.4mm drill bits from Amazon and followed the instructions on this YouTube video.
Sure enough, when using the 0.4mm drill bits, I could tell the nozzle was clogged. After clearing it out, the plastic started extruding in a straight line down, just like the video. I was stoked!
I tried another print and it was NIGHT AND DAY. I was finally getting nice plump lines that stuck to the build plate. I still had an issue or two on certain parts of my build plate, but I think that's because in all of my tries I had damaged the masking tape. I put down new blue tape and started up my print and it's BEAUTIFUL.
Thank you all very much for your help. Hopefully, this will be helpful to someone else as well.
> 9 votes
# Answer
Your nozzle is clearly too far from the bed. The plastic should be squashed down slightly. Some firmwares have an option where you can adjust the height of the nozzle "live" during the first layer, in Marlin this is called "babystepping". This can be very useful because you can get the height correct without having to mess with the physical leveling of the bed.
> 14 votes
# Answer
Your photo has shadows which seem to suggest that your tape layer has some wrinkles. That won't help. Try removing that tape and laying down the fabulous blue painter's tape.
If you read any dedicated forum for plastic extruder printers, you'll find plenty of claims that X or Y is the best way to guarantee adhesion. Some folks swear by glass+gluestick, others by PEI sheet, and so on. The only general consensus is that use of a brim or a raft is highly recommended so as to increase the total contact area.
> 6 votes
# Answer
I've been struggling to work out what is wrong with the process where you claim to be leveling the bed OK (and the print is starting in mid air). Now I remember I had exactly the same problem with my first prints.
I think you are leveling OK, but getting some binding in the Z-axis. As the head jumps to start printing, it goes up, then down (but not as far due to some mechanical problem). So although your Z-endstop is aligned with the bed, after finding the zero, the head is not reliably able to move and return to zero.
Check these questions for more detailed ideas about how to fix this:
Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems
z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?
You can try and confirm my diagnosis by zeroing, them moving Z-position up 2/3 of the full travel, and back down. See if it is still at the position where you leveled it to.
If it is not this, I suspect your Z-endstop may be giving unreliable results. Check the microswitch is securely mounted. I ended up replacing mine with an optical sensor, and have seen huge improvements in repetability (\<0.1mm rather than around rms 0.3mm from zero to zero)
> 5 votes
# Answer
I find 60-65 for bed. You are COOKING your pla. 175-200 unless you are a fast / expert. That said get rid of the tap. Use a Elmer's glue stick. Also set first layer speed to 30% and do like 130% material for layer 1. Let us know what happens!
Agree with Tom. Likely your too high up. I take a piece of paper and try to get the distance just so when moving the paper between the nozzles and the bed it has some resistance but not too much.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can use the masking tape as base, however the height of nozzle is higher than required. Check that your fist layer height is 70% lower than your nozzle size. In my opinion this can be the step layer minus 0.05, for example layer height is 0.2, then my first layer is 0.15, this makes that the material squizes a little more.
If this is not possible you might change the offset of printing level until you reach the height required.
Manually you can add some layers of masking tape to minimize the overgap within the nozzle and bed. (some times I do this, due mi home 3D printer gets out of calibration on changing nozzles)
For PLA i´m using 210°C because using 190 and 200 makes some balls like your photo. also try to use a lower speed like 90 or 80 % to allow a good melting inside the heater.
> 1 votes
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Tags: build-plate, adhesion
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thread-3392 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3392 | How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon | 2017-01-13T18:07:54.947 | # Question
Title: How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon
I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work?
# Answer
Proceeding with the expectation that you mean nylon rather than vinyl, there are a few options open for you. What resolution are you seeking? Layer thickness of 0.100 mm is quite good, allowing for ten layers per mm of part thickness, with infill adjusted as required.
If you've already determined that your printer will not print at the resolution required for your gear design, you would perhaps purchase a higher resolution printer. Of course, that may be an expense you would like to avoid.
If your parts count is small, you could consider to print samples of the parts to confirm fit, but not worry about strength and then use an online service to have them printed via SLS method.
Selective Laser Sintering places nylon powder on the work surface, then selectively melts the powder into a solid. Each layer when completed is covered with another layer of powder and fused to the previous portion (or not) until the part is complete.
Because the un-fused powder provides support, there is no requirement for the model to have supplemental support structures. There is a requirement/objective that the part have "drain holes" in areas which might otherwise be solid. Any surface that entraps powder is charged to the purchaser as if the space within is included in the part.
An example would be a cube that can be printed as six square faces only. The cube wall thickness can be specified and if a drain hole is incorporated, the cost would be the volume of the walls only. No drain hole would mean the cube would be charged for the entire volume.
For gears, which are typically low profile/flat items, that's a minor consideration.
The same concept applies to SLA printing, which uses a laser in a vat of resin. If the model is a solid with no drain holes, the interior will retain the resin. It is possible that the interior can be cured with strong UV light and/or sunlight, but opaque resins would not accept this work-around, nor would it reduce the cost involved. Also note that SLA printed items would lack the necessary strength.
If farming out your parts is the direction you intend to travel, ensure the dimension stability reference in the vendor you use. Nylon sintered parts will shrink a known amount during the fusing process. The vendor should provide the appropriate reference, or the vendor should confirm that he adjusts the model appropriately for shrinkage.
I have one very tiny part constructed from SLS nylon and it's amazingly strong for such a thin wall. Nylon wears well too.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If changing the nozzle to a smaller diameter is a viable alternative for your printer, then that may give a major increase in your X-Y-resolution.
You can think of it like drawing with a pencil vs. a thick crayon: a fine tip allows for fine details.
Personally I have done some printing with a 0.25mm nozzle, which was a bit of a challenge to find good slicer settings for, but otherwise went very well, giving much better resolution than my 0.4mm nozzle (nearly twice a good to be exact).
> 2 votes
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Tags: makerbot, material
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thread-3402 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3402 | New thermistor isolation, how? | 2017-01-15T14:01:40.907 | # Question
Title: New thermistor isolation, how?
We are trying to repair an Ultimaker Original+. One problem is a missing resistor isolation. The Ultimaker Original+ prints with up to 260 Degree Celcius.
**Which kind of isolation products are suitable to resist the heat and are fitting on the thin wires of the thermistor?**
# Answer
The most common choice for insulating thermistors is glass fiber sleeving. It tolerates very high temperatures, and is commonly rated for up to 600 °C.
Teflon is also used but has a rather low upper limit on its working temperature; it shouldn't be used at temperatures exceeding 260 °C - which rules it out for your purpose.
> 5 votes
# Answer
I'm not sure if it fits the use you're describing, but Kapton (polyimide) tape is stable to about 400 degrees C. It can also be used as a build surface, so generally useful to have some.
---
*Kapton tape is used all the time for electronic work, both to secure fine wires (for example patch wires on a PCB) and for insulation. It's not so great for thermal insulation since it is thin, but I have my hot-end wrapped in it, and that has saved some burnt fingers.*
> 4 votes
# Answer
I used Kapton tape to insulate mine.
> 2 votes
# Answer
There are many materials you can use one that came to my mind is this High Temperature & Pressure Sealant and also the best way to apply it so it can be removed easy is this . take a kitchen food very thing nylon cover you know the very thin elastic one or cover the parts with some type of release agent (dont use something that inhibit silicone like sulfur or sulfur containing staff) and apply it over it then when is solid cut it and release it it would be like a glove i hope ;)There are silicone that are really high temp 1000 f to 2000 f good luck :)
> 0 votes
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Tags: thermistor, ultimaker-original
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thread-3420 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3420 | gcode to move the printhead up for maintenance | 2017-01-18T05:40:20.393 | # Question
Title: gcode to move the printhead up for maintenance
I've got a Monoprice Mini Select (15365) and it takes FOREVER for me to manually spin the dial to get the printhead to raise all the way up so that I can perform maintenance (clear blockages in the nozzle or apply new tape to the bed, etc).
So, I was thinking about writing a snippet of gcode that I could just run which would contain the commands necessary to do that for me. I'm a n00b to 3D printing, but I'm an old programmer so I figured it would be too hard. However, before running this code on my printer, I wanted to get some experts to double check me to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything. :)
Here is what I have, please let me know if I've done anything wrong or if you have any suggestions.
```
; Move print head to center and top to prepare for cleaning/maintenance
M107 ; fan off
G28 ; home all axes
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
; full dimensions of the print area are 120mm x 120mm x 120mm
G0 X60 Y60 Z119 ; move to center X,Y and just below the max height
M84 ; disable motors
```
I grabbed a few lines from gcode generated by Slic3r and used the gcode wiki entry to understand each of the commands and fill in the extra ones I needed.
# Answer
Yes, on machines which will execute "standard" gcode, this will do what you request. Some good resources are http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code
> 5 votes
# Answer
It really depends on whether you currently have something half printed on the bed when you need to do maintenance. For example, you may have a blockage mid-print or need to reprime the nozzle.
So with that in mind, personally I would separate the line that does the move into two different lines.
Move vertically first, then in X Y. Otherwise, the print head may move diagonally and hit your object. This is because the head will move all three axes at once.
Otherwise looks good.
Edit: Another suggestion is that if you use repetier host to control the printer it will be easier to return to the print in-progress automatically.
Also take a look at the S parameter, for moves it can control how fast the move is.
> 2 votes
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Tags: g-code
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thread-3103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3103 | Do aluminium PCB heatbeds reduce hotspots? | 2016-11-29T13:20:34.850 | # Question
Title: Do aluminium PCB heatbeds reduce hotspots?
### TL;DR
* Do aluminium PCB heatbeds suffer from hotspots as much as standard PCB heatbeds, or is the presence of hot spots smoothed over by the fact that the PCB "substrate" is aluminium, and so its thermal conductivity helps spread the heat more evenly?
* Or, conversely, could the effect of the hotspots be magnified, and actually made worse?
* Which has fewer hotspots, MK2A, MK2B, or MK3? (I'm not sure if this should be a separate question)
I would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB.
Some thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated.
---
I am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300\*200\*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer.
**Note: this is not a shopping question**, I am merely providing a background to my questions.
While the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can be rather piecemeal and incomplete. Cases in point being the two pages on heatbeds:
As stated in the former link, on the section on Metal print beds, PCB based heatbeds *can* suffer from hotspots, and that is why, apparently, it is sometimes preferrable to use a subsequent aluminium build/print bed *on top* of that, en lieu of glass plate, in order to even out the hotspots, as the aluminium's greater thermal conductivity helps *smooth out* the hotspots, by distributing the heat more efficiently than a glass plate can. However, it doesn't describe the heating effect of just a *single* aluminium PCB heatbed.
The section, in the latter link, on Aluminium heatbeds, where the heating circuit is printed directly onto the aluminium, rather than a standard PCB (on a non-conductive substrate), makes mention that the print can be made directly on to the aluminium, without the need of an additional glass plate, resulting in a lighter print plate, and hence faster print speed. However, yet again, it is not particularly clear, or explicit, when it comes to heat distribution.
# Answer
> 3 votes
A thermal image of my aluminum heated bed does not show hotspots, although the edges are cooler than the majority of the center.
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Tags: heated-bed
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thread-3382 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3382 | How to print a 6" wheel in ABS? | 2017-01-11T20:49:52.380 | # Question
Title: How to print a 6" wheel in ABS?
I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform. In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job. I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem. Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel. I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution. Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests? (grasping at straws) Thanks for your suggestions.
# Answer
I had pretty much this exact situation when printing a disk for a rocket avionics bay. It seemed to come down to getting the basics of bed adhesion: Heat bed, ABS temp, bed composition, and a "primer" layer. I found the FF Creator Pro to work well with a bed at 110, filament at 230, printing on a glass plate with ABS slurry. Then adding the brim 6 orbits wide held it down very well. I found that printing on the stock FF blue plastic was inconsistent with adhesion. Also, keep the door closed while printing and for something this size don't run the cooling fan (if you're printing on the left nozzle).
And, of course, the right infill helps with the thermal contraction and strength. I found through testing that the rectilinear patter in S3D gave the best structural support in multiple dimensions. I also end up typically printing infill at about 15% to ensure a good surface on the upper face. Any lower and I found a lot of sagging in the top finish.
If you're using this as a platform, then the layer size matters a lot also. You don't need .10mm layers, as .25mm or .20mm layers would probably work better. Then make sure you print enough top layers to get a good finish. At .20mm I usually print 4 top layers with a 15% infill.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill. Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill. That ought to do the trick. It won't be solid, but it should be strong enough.
What are you going to put on the platform?
> 3 votes
# Answer
So you just want a short, wide cylinder? Just print that, with low density infill (20-30%) and 6-8 solid top layers, three bottom, and three perimeters, and you'll be fine. For bed adhesion with something this wide, use a 10mm brim, one layer thick. And a heated chamber will help a lot.
> 0 votes
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Tags: heated-bed, abs, simplify3d, warping
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thread-3088 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3088 | Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well | 2016-11-24T15:42:42.617 | # Question
Title: Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well
I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw.
Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged.
I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine.
I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)? The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter?
I plan to re-route it in the firmware to use A15 instead as I believe I must have blown the analogue input, right?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Thermistors and thermocouples are different animals. A thermistor changes resistance based on the temperature at the junction. A thermocouple generates a small voltage (mV range) which varies depending on the temperature. Higher temps typically use a thermocouple because thermistors tend to not be as accurate at those elevated temps.
My printer uses thermocouples, and it appears that yours does also. I'm not sure what you mean by "crushed", but you can check to see if the wires are shorted to the heat block or to each other. It is unlikely that you've damaged the input to the control board by doing this. Shorted wires can give the same readings as no thermocouple attached. You can also get errors induced through ground isolation if wires are shorted to the heating block.
Changing this out for a different system with a different input amplifier sounds like a nightmare in the making, and I'd only attempt it if I could not fix the existing problem or find a direct replacement.
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Tags: printer-building
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thread-3443 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3443 | How can I make this rounded enclosure feasible to print? | 2017-01-20T06:14:55.227 | # Question
Title: How can I make this rounded enclosure feasible to print?
## TL;DR - What needs to be done to the following model to ensure a successful print?
As part of a father-son project we're trying to make an enclosure for a digital clock. The idea is to make a 3D printed model of a rocket with a hollow body to hold the electronics. The main body consists of two halves that will press-fit together with some integrated mounting locations for the display, micro-controller, etc.
Since this is our first 3D printing project, I would like to know what can be done to the following model to help ensure a successful first print. We have not chosen a material or supplier yet, but I suspect we'll go with PLA since it seems to be quite common, inexpensive, available in lots of colours, etc.
The model is not yet complete - there are several details missing, like additional mounting locations - but I was hoping to make corrections to what we already have before too much further, just in case it requires a complete restart.
Here are some possibly relevant details and goals:
* The shell thickness is currently 2.5 mm.
* We would like the shell to be translucent to allow a glowing effect from some internal LEDs.
* The nose cone and thruster (not shown) will probably have pins that press-fit into the top and bottom of both halves of the shell to hold them together.
* There is a 0.5 mm clearance between the lip on the front shell and the detent on the rear shell.
* The rectangular window will possibly be removed, or made into a flip-open door.
There aren't a lot of hard requirements as this is just a learning project, so we're willing to change almost anything about the design, as long as we can fit in the existing clock parts.
The Fusion 360 model is available to view online if it helps: Rocket Concept 3
# Answer
With a couple of minor adjustments, that would print just fine standing up as it is.
Alternatively you could lay it down with the open side facing upwards and use a few supports (my least favourite method), or simply make a flat spot on the back to lay on the printer bed. Which is probably what I would do.
As far as shell thickness goes - 2.5 mm is pretty heavy duty. You also need to bear in mind that it's best to have a thickness as a factor of the thickness of your bead or your layer height (depends on printing orientation) - assuming you are going to print this yourself. So usually that would either be divisible by the bead width or by the layer height. If you want translucent - easy enough use translucent or clear filament. I'd probably go for 1.2 mm or 1.6 mm wall thickness.
I made an angel at Christmas with clear PLA and quite a thick wall (wasn't my model and I didn't bother measuring - but at least 2 mm) and an LED candle lit it up really well.
It's much easier doing this kind of thing after buying the printer. that way you learn much quicker what works and what doesn't.
> 4 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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