id
stringlengths 8
14
| url
stringlengths 40
58
| title
stringlengths 2
150
| date_created
stringdate 2008-09-06 22:17:14
2024-03-31 23:12:03
| text
stringlengths 149
7.14M
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
thread-3513 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3513 | Is it possible to 3D print a front bumper grille for a Honda Accord CL7? | 2017-02-02T15:38:48.467 | # Question
Title: Is it possible to 3D print a front bumper grille for a Honda Accord CL7?
I probably have to find out all the answers myself, but I could really use somebody else's experience.
* what material should I use, so the grill does not bend when exposed to the heat coming from the radiator
* I have to print the part in slices; what glue can I use to join them lately, again so it resists the heat from the radiator and doesn't catch fire
* is there maybe a CAD file describing this part, so I don't have to manually create it from scratch?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Your best bet for the material would be one of the high temperature filaments like the ColorFabb HT ones, they can take quite a punch when it comes to heat.
As for the model, you could try to source one of the grills that is at least as good in shape as possible and get it scanned, there are people offering this as a service for example over at 3dhubs.com
Glue is really depending on the part, I would suggest creating a click-together type of system so the "glue" is only stabilizing it and not beeing a structural component. You can also get hold of a 3D Pen and weld the parts together with the same material used to print.
---
Tags: print-material
--- |
thread-4367 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4367 | After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded | 2017-07-12T21:53:57.797 | # Question
Title: After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded
Testing my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic(Wanhao), basic normal quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.1 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 60c bed temp, 200c extruder temp). After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded, it makes some loose structure.
Edit: After finish I noticed that problem exists only in layers where it cycles printing/no printing. There is no problem on layers where it print continuously.
What is the reason can be and how can I fix that?
# Answer
> 3 votes
This is very likely under extrusion caused by your feeder pressing down too hard onto the filament. If the feeder presses the filament very hard it then gets squished a bit, this is not causing much issues when you're only feeding in one direction as the drive gear is still pulling on fresh filament and shoving the squished part down at a steady rate. BUT once you got retractions things get awful as the squished filament then gets retracted and fed again at the same pace but due to the elongation at a smaller rate of material causing underextrusion.
You can either trade it in to some overextrusion by adjusting the extra length on restart setting, retract a shorter piece of filament (like only retract half a mm or something) or loosen the feeder so it doesn't squish down on the filament as hard.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If the problem occurs most when you are doing the most advance/retract cycles, the problem is likely with your advance/retract settings.
Have you tried cutting each of them in half and executing the same gcode?
# Answer
> 2 votes
**It definitely looks like under extrusion.**
1. First thing I would check is the filament feeder to make sure it has a good grip in the filament.
2. After that I would do another print to see if the problem is repeatable.
If it doesn't repeat, it may have been
* A temporarily clogged nozzle
* The filament was undersized in that segment and the filament feeder lost its grip.
* The extruder got to cold for some reason in that segment and the feeder couldn't push the material through the extruder fast enough.
If it does repeat:
* Re-inspect the filament feeder
* Try increasing the the extruder temp to say, 225.
* Try turning off retraction to see if it is related to those settings.
---
Tags: pla, print-quality, wanhao
--- |
thread-4177 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4177 | Dual extruder setup in Marlin | 2017-06-01T17:50:49.067 | # Question
Title: Dual extruder setup in Marlin
I have a Tevo Tarantula with a MKS Base 1.5 board and dual extruders. I am running Marlin RC8 Tevo Community build for the dual extruder, large bed and SN04 sensor.
All temperature sensors work and give accurate reading but `E1` when activated runs at 100% until the overtemps kicks in and shuts down the system. Like I said, it reads proper temperatures through the thermistor it just won’t stop at the set temperature. I checked the MOSFET and there is no obvious scorching or bad solder joints on the MKS board. This leads me to believe it is a mix-up in firmware but, being a bit of a newbie on this, I am still getting familiar with G-code and Marlin.
I have confirmed the correct board is being referenced in firmware from `boards.h` but looking at `configuration.h` I just get confused. What I am thinking is somehow/somewhere `E1` might be referenced as a fan that is just off or on. Anybody have ideas?
# Answer
I am not sure what the hardware config is for the **Tevo Tarantula**
Make sure your `configuration.h` file is setup for your hardware. The extruder defines are describe in Conditional\_LCD.h
It looks like the configuration.h file on GitHub is configured for a single extruder.
For example, if you have 2 hotends; but, "HOTENDS=2" is not set then the I/O will not be configured for the 2nd hotend. I just looked at the code and if `HOTENDS == 1` then the `MOSFET_D_PIN` will be used to control FAN1 (which sounds very similar to what you are describing that you are seeing).
```
#if HOTENDS == 1
#define FAN1_PIN MOSFET_D_PIN
#else
#define HEATER_1_PIN MOSFET_D_PIN
#endif
```
> 1 votes
# Answer
So, following on from Mark's answer, in line 298 of Conditional\_LCD.h, you would need to change:
```
#define HOTENDS 1
```
to
```
#define HOTENDS 2
```
> 0 votes
# Answer
I had a similar problem, my documentation was wrong and the heater & thermistor were wired in backwards. Maybe recheck your wiring and even try reversing the temp sensor on your board.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: dual-nozzle
--- |
thread-5 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5 | How is PLA different from ABS material? | 2016-01-12T18:53:53.623 | # Question
Title: How is PLA different from ABS material?
What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?
# Answer
> 29 votes
Paraphrasing this site. Feel free to add suggestions in the form of comments and I will try to incorporate them.
Summary
* ABS: Stronger, machinable, more flexible, and more temperature resistant than PLA. Typically printed on a heated bed. Warping is a common problem when printing ABS.
* PLA: Wider range of filaments available, easier and in some cases faster to print. Not as strong as ABS and the fact that its biodegradable could be seen as both a benefit and a drawback.
Material Properties:
* ABS: Strong plastic with mild flexibility. Naturally beige in color. Can be filled and sanded. Higher temperature. Easy to recycle.
* PLA: Not as strong as ABS but more rigid. Naturally transparent. More difficult to fill and sand. Can sag in hot temperatures. Sourced from organic matter so it can be broken down in commercial compost facilities.
Part Accuracy:
* ABS: Part warping is a significant issue. Sharp corners will often be rounded.
* PLA: Less heat required contributes to less warping. Becomes more liquid at common extruder temperatures so finer details can be printed.
Safety and Handling:
* ABS: Strong burning/melting plastic smell is present when printing ABS. Health concerns have been raised regarding airborne ultrafine particles generated while printing with ABS (ref). ABS will absorb moisture causing popping when the moisture enters the hot end. This leads to discontinuities in the print job.
* PLA: Doesn't smell as strongly when printing due to its organic nature. Moisture can also be absorbed into PLA and can irreversibly damage it.
# Answer
> 8 votes
The problem is that it's almost impossible to answer the PLA/ABS question just by looking at the material characteristics as it is so dependent on the application and even the specific object you're printing.
The decision guide in this infographic covers the following points that usually should be involved when deciding between ABS and PLA:
**Ventilation** \- I wouldn't recommend putting your nose into the printer with any material, but being exposed to ABS fumes is likely a lot worse.
**Heated Bed** \- This is an easy one: Without one, PLA should be your choice. If you do have one though, it might improve adhesion of PLA as well (set to ~60C instead of 90C-110C for ABS)
**Exposure to Heat or Mechanical Stress** \- ABS would be the preferred choice as PLA melts at lower temperatures (it might start to deform when left in your car in the summer) and ABS can endure more bend before breaking.
Of course even ABS has upper limits and you might want to consider other materials like *Polycarbonate* for extreme applications.
On the other hand there are newer materials that share many PLA features (biodegradable, no heat bed required) but are more similar to ABS in their mechanical properties (e.g. BioFila Linen) and temperature stability (e.g. Advanced PLA, ExcelFil EVO).
**Printer Enclosure** \- Not a must-have for using ABS, but especially objects with large footprints are susceptible to warping when they cool too fast. A fully enclosed printer ensures a slow and even cooling process.
**Post Processing** \- Often an afterthought, but ABS has a slight advantage here as it is a little easier to sand and you have the option of working with acetone (which I personally wouldn't mess with unless you REALLY need to).
**Print Temperature** \- Roughly 190C-220C for PLA and 220C-240C for ABS, so be sure that your printer can go high enough to extrude ABS.
**Biodegradability** \- PLA is biodegradable (under specific circumstances) which is a consideration when printing test objects, prototypes and other objects that will be discarded.
# Answer
> 3 votes
> PLA/ABS general and thermal properties
# Answer
> 2 votes
PLA (polylactic acid) melts at a lower temp and does not warp AS BADLY when cooled. It is non-toxic (in USA it comes from cornstarch, beets in some countries, or tapioca root) It is less flexible than ABS, could rip or crumble.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is a harder and more sturdy plastic. (What Legos are made of). A heated bed is used to keep it from cooling too fast, as warping can be a problem is you cool it too fast (being close to an exterior door or an air vent) An enclosed printer helps regulate temp and avoids SOME of this problem. Some people get headaches from the smell of molten ABS over a prolonged time. It flexes better than PLA. Can be sanded or cut easily and maintain integrity.
Beware of CHEAP ABS as it may contain a higher amount of HCN (Hydrogen Cyanide) that can be released when used (but usually around 1 part per million, about one fourth the dangerous limit.)
"GOOD" ABS CAN contain HCN as well, but it is not released by "normal" printing temperatures. (avoid burning ABS or Nylon)
so, all in all: PLA is safe/non-toxic, biodegradable, uses less energy to print, less flexible.
ABS is harder, sturdier, will last nearly forever (if not bent or stressed or frozen). Somewhat flexible and will snap back.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Basic facts and tips for using and choosing ABS and PLA materials:
Made from:
```
ABS: Petroleum based
PLA: Corn or other plants
```
Smell:
```
ABS: smell of hot plastic,
PLA: gives off a smell similar to a semi-sweet cooking oil. Less intense smell than ABS.
```
Part Accuracy:
Both PLA and ABS are capable of building dimensionally accurate parts. However, there are characteristics that we need to memorized. ABS: will be curling upwards of the surface in direct contact with the 3D printer’s print bed. for fine and delicate features on parts involving sharp corners, such as gears, there will often be a slight rounding of the corner. PLA: much less part warping. but it undergoes more of a phase-change when heated and becomes much more liquid. The increased flow can also lead to stronger binding between layer.
```
Recycling:
```
ABS: Recycling number 7, most local recycling programs do not accept ABS. It generally being recycled into plastic lumber. PLA: it biodegrades, however the process takes a long time when outside of an industrial composting facility Why we provide a vacuum sealed package for ABS and PLA products? long term exposure to a humid environment without sealed package may result in detrimental effects, both to the printing process and to the quality of finished parts.
ABS: will tend to bubble and spurt from the tip of the nozzle when printing, part accuracy, strength are reduced. Raises the risk of clogging the nozzle. ABS can be easily dried by using dry or hot air. PLA: bubbles or sporting at the nozzle, also discoloration and a reduction in 3D printed part are found when in long term moisture environment. Improving the printing outcomes （Blue tape and Kapton tape pictures) PLA: printing temperature approximately: 190°C - 240°C ABS: printing temperature approximately: 225°C - 250°C (recommend to use a heated print bed)
A good first layer adhesion is of the utmost importance in obtaining the best results for the prints.
Using Blue Tape or Kapton Tape. Hairspray the print bed. To attain optimal result for the prints, you need to consider variables such as nozzel diameter, printing speed, and layer height. Summary: ABS: A preferred filament for the prints with engineering and professional purposes with its strength, machinability, flexibility, and higher temperature resistance. The bad plastic smell is due to the petroleum based origin. Required a heated print bed to attain ABS printing reliability. PLA: Wide range of available colors, provide translucencies and glossy feel of the prints. Plant based and semi-sweet corn like smelling are appreciated over ABS. When properly cooled, PLA seems to perform higher maximum printing speeds, and sharper printed corners. Combining this with low warping on parts make it a popular plastic for household uses, toys, hobbyists, and educational purposes. to know more please visit abs vs pla
---
Tags: filament, abs, fdm, pla
--- |
thread-4368 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4368 | Running laser on my printer | 2017-07-13T00:24:03.900 | # Question
Title: Running laser on my printer
I am trying to control a laser with the fan (D9) and ran into problems. So I tried P44, no good then P6 also not good.\ What my problem is I am trying to "burn" a group of vertical lines spaced about 0.75" apart, and randomly the drive to the laser power supply is either "skipping" (missing the control pulse) or stretching the pulse. This results in missed burns and/or "streaks" where the laser does not turn off. I am using Marlin 1.1.4 on a RAMPS 1.4 board (clone) on an Arduino close also. When I am not printing, the pulses are perfect and I can control the pulse width with M42 P6(or 44) S0 (to 255) and it follows just fine. It is ONLY while I am printing and the steppers are moving that things go south. This also occurs on D9 (fan) and that is why I am trying these other outputs. These other outputs use different timers in the 2560 as well. I have tried all sorts and combinations of firmware settings, different USB cable and different USB ports on my computer, with no change. What might I be missing?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Thank you all for your suggestions and help.
It appears that I was just running the printer too fast and slowing it down to about 10% of my original speed "fixed" my problem. I don't know where i got the rediculous speed from, but 1200 mm/min is WAY too fast. More like 150 to maybe 200 mm/min is what it should have been.
Oh well.. comes under the heading "pay attention" I guess!
# Answer
> 2 votes
**Have you checked the supply voltage?** With everything turned on (steppers stepping, laser on, etc) you may be pulling too much current and the supply voltage is drooping.
Use DVM to measure the DC voltage. Also you will need to check for supply ripple. For that, either an oscilloscope or use DVM set for AC voltage.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You should insert `M400` commands before each and every `M42` command. The reason is that `M42` skip the normal command queue. Each `M42` command is processed as soon as it is read, and may be executed well before the G-code (moves) preceding it have actually been executed. Inserting `M400` before `M42` will ensure that the printer finishes all moves before `M42` changes the pin state.
The long "streaks" you're seeing correspond to the printer processing a laser-on command too early, and the missed pulses correspond to processing a laser-off command too early.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This is a stab in the dark but maybe the Arduino (clone or genuine) and RAMPS1.4 combination is not powerful enough to handle the calculations required to control the laser and printing simultaneously (although I can't really see why the additional processing to control a laser would be over taxing the processor. However your comment about slowing the printing seems to help alleviate the issue, does back up the hypothesis). I have read that the ATmega256, and lesser AVR microcontrollers, can be working at its limits, when controlling a 3D printer and having to deal with arcs, or something that requires complex calculations.
Some printer control boards, such as the Smoothie, use different processors (ARM?) in order to supersede these issues. From 3D Printering: Electronics boards.
> The above boards use AVR microcontrollers. While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the ordinary. The Smoothie board is the solution to these problems.
So, if you have discounted power issues, it could be due to computing power and it *may* be worth considering using a different, more powerful, controller?
---
Tags: ramps-1.4, laser
--- |
thread-4414 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4414 | How to thin UV sensitive resin | 2017-07-24T00:42:20.090 | # Question
Title: How to thin UV sensitive resin
I have some older resin that got a bit thick. I was thinking I could use some paint thinner to thin it a bit and restore it. My thoughts are the paint thinner is made of terpene oils so should be compatible with the resin.
To test, I went ahead and mixed a half capful of paint thinner with about a cup of resin. I mixed it thoroughly and it seemed to mix well and restored proper viscosity. I then filtered it through a paper coffee filter twice. The results were very nice and smooth resin. I did a UV hardening test with a few drops on a strip and into the UV lamp. It still hardens.
Any thoughts, suggestions or OMGs! before I try this in my printer? It's a Pegasus Touch SLA.
# Answer
You've covered a couple of concerns "outside the box," but the real tests will come when you pour some of the resin into the vat.
If you don't get a reaction with the release layer, score one for your side. The release layer is a silicone kind of compound, which typically is un-reactive to most substances, but that's not to say the thinner qualifies in that respect.
To be cautious, you could dab a bit on the corner of the vat, especially out of the usual scan area or off the build plate contact surface. If it sits without clouding the release layer, the next test would be a layer test.
You could even remove the build plate, pour the modified resin in the vat and run a model comprised of only one layer, perhaps two. You'd be able to carefully pull the cured resin off the release layer and make a preliminary determination.
If all is well by this point, it's time to create a model, yes?
I hope you'll report back on your results. My Pegasus is still in the box from Kickstarter days. I'm sure my resin is well beyond the "sell-by" date!
> 2 votes
---
Tags: sla, uv-printer
--- |
thread-4416 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4416 | How do I modify Cura's code generation? | 2017-07-25T02:53:01.673 | # Question
Title: How do I modify Cura's code generation?
Cura is generating temperature commands in the wrong order. I need to swap lines 6 and 7 below so that both the printhead and bed can begin to heat at the same time.
Is this code generation configurable in Cura?
```
5 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.5.0
6 M190 S60 ; set bed and block
7 M104 S215 ; set printhead, don't block
8 M109 S215 ; set printhead, block
```
# Answer
You can do so by placing this at the top of the start code under machine settings (tested on 2.6.1).
```
M104 S{material_print_temperature}
M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
```
> 5 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-4418 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4418 | Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole | 2017-07-25T15:16:47.537 | # Question
Title: Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole
I cannot generate the upper part of the solid properly which contain a hole (as in the picture). The solid part (bottom section) printed well.
What should I change to print the part with hole properly?
Is it a problem with machine or the design?
I am using Hydra 3D printer.
# Answer
> 2 votes
It appears that the upper part of your print contains less plastic than the lower. This would mean that as the printer begins to operate in that area, the previously deposited plastic has less time to cool.
The distortions are difficult to see from the distortions of the photograph, but I've experienced similar upper, smaller section failures.
You could consider to print more than one copy of the item on the bed, which will require the nozzle to move away from each layer, allowing more cooling time, or add a throw-away model.
I've also added an ooze shield using Simplify3D to create a single wall around the part, providing the same cooling time concept.
If you try these options and still experience a problem, please consider editing your post with material used (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc) as well as temperatures and speeds used for this print.
Your slicer is not likely the problem, but is often useful information. Printer name is sometimes helpful, but I think it's not critical in this circumstance.
It's also useful to orient the part in the photograph to match that of the print. It's apparent in this case that the top of the print is to the right and bottom is to the left. If that is not correct, please advise in edit.
# Answer
> 0 votes
This can be a product of poor overhang profiles and bridging. Issues with overhanging features can most easily be fixed by:
* applying active cooling (for PLA)
* slowing down your feedrate on outer shells
* or adjusting some of the more advanced slicing settings related to bridging/overhanging such as:
+ anchors
+ widths
+ feedrates
+ active cooling speeds
+ etc.
---
Tags: filament
--- |
thread-4424 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4424 | How do I decrypt messages on my Repetier firmware? | 2017-07-26T13:35:54.627 | # Question
Title: How do I decrypt messages on my Repetier firmware?
I need to send a complex password to my machine. The machine needs to decrypt it and run it. I have not found enough resources for such an operation.
More detailed description:
I am developing a new feature for my 3D printer which runs on Repetier. (It may be on a different firmware that I can do this job). I want to change my 3D printer so it can understand special encrypted G-codes alongside normal g-codes. Lets describe it with an example:
Normally, 3D printers can read and apply standard g-code files like:
```
G28
G0 X10 Y20 E30
.
.
.
etc.
```
But I am developing a g-code encryption method which encrypts any g-code and turns it into a text like:
```
M999 !4#^
M999 ^s+.&&/..* ….
.
.
etc.
```
I want to change the firmware for my printer so it understands if the related g-code is encrypted by checking every line if it stars with M999 (or starts with some other pattern character which I will decide later).
To do is, I need to understand how Repetier works, especially how command debug works and how I can parse my encrypted code from my encrypted g-code file.
I could not understand how repetier.h / command.cpp works and how it parses the line and redirects to functional cases.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Looking through the source I found Commands.cpp that has a loop.
```
void Commands::commandLoop() {
while(true) {
...
Commands::executeGCode(code);
}
}
```
If we find the executeGCode method, we see that it calls:
```
processMCode(com);
```
And finding the processMCode method, we have the switch case you can add your own logic to.
```
void Commands::processMCode(GCode *com) {
switch( com->M ) {
case 3: // Spindle/laser on
...
case 999: // Your custom logic
```
After decoding your encrypted string, I think it would be best to call back into the first method mentioned, and let the process start from the top with the unencrypted command.
```
case 999:
// Custom logic
executeGCode(unencrypted);
break;
```
---
Tags: software, firmware, repetier, repetier-host
--- |
thread-4412 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4412 | Why isn't any color showing up in my .3mf file in Windows 10 3D Builder | 2017-07-23T13:06:53.673 | # Question
Title: Why isn't any color showing up in my .3mf file in Windows 10 3D Builder
So, I made a 3D picture of a cute mouse using Microsoft Paint 3D and exported it as a .3mf.
Why didn't the colors match when I opened the file in Microsoft 3D Builder?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Per the 3MF Specification, colors in the .3mf files are sRGB.
If you are looking at gross color defects, I would look a the raw codes generated in the 3mf to make sure they make sense.
If you are talking about subtle color differences, that is much more complicated.
Color have always been a tough thing to define as it is affected by whether the it is emissive (like displayed on a screen) or reflective (like a physical object). The way it is perceived is affected by ambient light, surface texture and more. I worked on a project once where Marketing wanted all the colors to match (on the screen, on paper, on plastic, on on fabric) and it was a mess.
---
Tags: color
--- |
thread-4427 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4427 | How to print a two color part with only one extruder | 2017-07-26T21:56:24.457 | # Question
Title: How to print a two color part with only one extruder
I'm planning my first project. I want to print an iPhone case with a flush letter on the back, but I want the letter in a different color (single extruder printer). The thing is the two colors will be on the same level. Do I create two separate models, import them to a single model, mesh the parts and somehow specify which one to start on, then just change the filament when it's done with the first section? Will the letter be loose fitting in the cut out? Or will I need to print them separately and glue them together?
What is a good slicing software to accomplish this?
# Answer
> 7 votes
What you ask may be easier than you think. The slicing software is unimportant, generally speaking. Consider especially that your requirements fit the solution spot on.
Take a look at this thingiverse snowman.
Each of the colors is a separate model. Each of the colors is only one layer thick (0.200 mm). Each of the colors is placed with zero overlap to the adjacent colors, as the extrusion multiplier will allow enough "squish" to cause a bond to its neighbor.
You would create a model with the necessary shape for your lettering and insert the appropriate color for them. Print that model but leave it on the bed. If the bed is heated, all the better, but don't let it cool to the point of release. If it's not heated, the adhesive should hold it until project completion.
For the main background color, your model would be normal but with a single layer subtracted at the base. The subtraction would have to be the shape of the lettering. Consider that you're creating indented or recessed lettering. Use appropriate modeling techniques to perform this action.
Keep in mind that you'll want the lettering to be mirrored, as you're printing it "upside down" on the build plate.
Swap out the filament to the main color and print.
You are color limited only by your determination and patience, as you have to swap out filament and also have to create appropriate models with recesses to take the first layer, of which you'll also have to create models.
I've created at least one of the snowman pictured and it came out quite good. The layman will not be as astonished as someone familiar with 3D modeling and printing, however. You get a better appreciation when you know what goes into the project to get this result.
EDIT to add more info, rather than fill the comments:
The above method works only because the inlay is a single layer deep. If your slicer supports changing layer thickness during a print, you could print the first layer at the max for your nozzle, say 0.3 mm then set layer 2 and upwards to the resolution you desire for the majority of your print. I use Simplify3D which supports such actions. I'm not sure of the others.
Relevant to the questions posed in the comments, your modeling software may be a factor in this process. The modeling software will create/assign a pivot point or some other name to a location of reference in the model. The slicer will use that to position the model on the bed.
Here's a concept I would use to perform this task. Start with your single layer lettering, ensuring that the thickness of the letters will match your first layer height. Save the model as an STL file. Leave the lettering on the screen in your modeling software.
Create or import the case file. Position it as you wish relative to the letters. Of course, both models will be flat on the build plane or all bets are off. Use the lettering in a boolean subtraction to remove the shapes from the phone case model.
If the above does not remove the lettering model, delete that and you have the recess. Save this model in STL.
When you load the models in the slicer, they should drop into the same location relative to each other.
When you print the letters, they will be on layer one. When you print the remaining model, the cut-out portion will be on layer one, while the rest is placed atop the two color portion. The print head will move up one layer to adjust for the extra depth.
If you require the letters to be thicker than a single layer, one of the options you have is also in your question. Create the letters in the thickness you wish, use them to create the recess in the case and print separately. In so doing, you will be counting on the printer's ability to make clean bridges. The letters may fit cleanly, may have some play or slop, or be too large to fit easily. It would behoove you to make a test piece or two, perhaps a simple slab with one or two letters to see how that concept works in the real world. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well the public library's genuine Prusa i3 MK2S performed a challenging bridging operation.
I apologize for overlooking the reference to first project. With that in mind, I would consider that this is a slightly advanced project. Your modeling software and modeling software skills will obviously come into play here and is a separate subject/question/topic for discussion.
---
Tags: 3d-models, filament, software, slicing, multi-material
--- |
thread-4421 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4421 | Ramps 1.4 1.8 stepper motor extrusion calculation | 2017-07-25T19:00:08.187 | # Question
Title: Ramps 1.4 1.8 stepper motor extrusion calculation
I have Ramps 1.4 and would like to get answer on extrusion in Marlin firmware. I have NEMA 17 stepper motor 1.8 deg, set to 1/16 step. Mk7 direct drive. 38 teeth in extruder drive gear. I bought it from this website.
Here are my current settings:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80, 4000, 180 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 3, 45 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 9000, 9000, 100, 300 }
```
I am using ABS 1.75 filament and a 0.4 nozzle.
# Answer
> 4 votes
According to the description, the drive gear you have has a `10.8mm` diameter. This means that (in the ideal case) one full rotation of the drive gear will advance a length of filament equal to its circumference, which is `pi x 10.8mm` or approximately `33.93mm`.
Your motor rotates `1.8` degrees per step, so it takes `360 / 1.8 = 200 steps` for a full rotation. Since you are using 16x microstepping, this is multiplied to `200 x 16 = 3200 steps`.
You thus end up with a steps per mm value of `3200 / 33.93 = 94.31 steps/mm`.
You might need to calibrate this further, for instance by extruding a set length of filament (e.g. 100mm) and measuring how much is actually extruded, and then compensating the steps/mm value to get you closer to the desired 100mm. A simple way to measure this is to put a mark on your filament at 150mm from the extruder, and then (after extruding 100mm) measure how close the mark is to the extruder (which should be 50mm) However, this theoretically computed value should be a good starting point. Note that the speed you do this test at should be close to your normal printing speed, since extruding at a much higher (resp. lower) speed will falsely lead you to believe you are underextruding (resp. overextruding).
# Answer
> 0 votes
Simplest way to calculate your extrusion is:
Set your number of perimeters walls 1 top and bottom layer 0 infill 0% and print simple 20x20x20 cube look at the wall thickness with caliper and compare your extrusion width value on your slicer software
---
Tags: filament, extruder, motor
--- |
thread-655 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/655 | Show generated support structures in Cura | 2016-02-25T23:57:07.407 | # Question
Title: Show generated support structures in Cura
In Cura, when you enable "Print support structure", is there a way to see what it will look like?
# Answer
> 8 votes
Select the View Modes Button in the upper right hand corner, and select Layers.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Cura generates support based on the outlines of the layers which will be printed, rather based on the triangles of the 3D model. It is therefore not possible to show the generated support in the solid view.
You can view the support in the layer view however. In Cura 2 that's on the left bottom of the screen.
Support is classified as a helper part in the legend of the layer view.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4066 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4066 | Estimating printing time from Cura | 2017-05-15T12:29:56.027 | # Question
Title: Estimating printing time from Cura
I know that the actual printing time is longer than the time estimated by Cura, due to acceleration and jerk factor.
However, I have printed a small pyramid for which Cura estimates 4.0 minutes, while the measured printing time is 2 minutes and 40 seconds. What reasons could produce this difference?
For clarity, I'm using a Delta Wasp 20 40 equipped with a clay extruder for which parameters such as E-step (for E axis) are unpredictable since I have no filament.
# Answer
> 3 votes
If you properly define your own machine with a `delta_wasp.def.json` file you can fill in the acceleration and jerk settings of your printer, so that Cura will use the correct values for print time estimation.
For example, take a look at how the Ultimaker 2 is defined.
Exposing these settings to the Custom FDM Printer wizard hasn't been implemented (yet).
# Answer
> 1 votes
As you note, the estimates are usually optimistic because they're calculated without knowing the printer's actual acceleration as well as communication overhead time losses, etc. However, many estimation algorithms put in a bit of a fudge factor to approximate a typical printer or to approximate startup time. I think in this case, you're just on the wrong side of the fudge factor.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Estimating time for any CNC based machines are measured in this formula:
*The length of pulses that machine travels x The feedrate of the pulse itself*
It gives you the time for whole movements. If you're familiar with NC codes, information of any movement is listed in a single line, having its own `feedrate`, that's what we call pulses.
As machines are not ideal, some delay occurs between pulses, approximately *1 or 2 ms* according to machine type. That's what is not measured in the formula.
If you were able to measure that `delay time` and multiply it in `number of pulses`, by adding it in the `estimated time` found by machine, you could find a much more definite estimated time, for your process.
---
Tags: 3d-models, delta, delta-wasp-2040
--- |
thread-1497 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1497 | How to add internal supports/localized infill, preferably in Cura? | 2016-07-11T08:29:43.950 | # Question
Title: How to add internal supports/localized infill, preferably in Cura?
I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material.
However, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell.
The bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to.
For example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air
Obviously this can't be printed.
What I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the "detached" surfaces.
What I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it.
Reorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another.
I usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools
# Answer
> 3 votes
I'm not really sure if i get you right but it seems like you gotta switch on support material. That's all. Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like very common situation where some parts are hanging like your yellow disks.
Otherwise if your model is going to be closed at the bottom and at the top you can mock support on your own to have better control of it. How? Just add hollow cylinders under your disk so in fact cylinder will stay on the bottom layer then its walls will be support and finally your yellow disk will be a top cover of the cylinder. I hopw you can imagine that properly.
Another way is to design support elements wich would grow out of walls and this way support your disks
Maybe if you would explain a bit more, what the model is then I could support you more.
**\[edit\]**
To make it more automatic, you could try to use parametric CAD apps. I would say, Autodesk Inventor is one which I can suggest. You can use for example its Ribs functionality as support (varsion C).
**\[edit2\]**
After Tormod Haugene's and tbm0115's comments I decided to fill some gaps in my answer. Here go pros and cons of options A, B and C.
* **option A**
The simplest one and more or less automatic one. Which means when user add support then this option will be a result of it. Of course if user needs to have support only for the disk but over the disk there will be... a "ceiling" then option A cannot use regular support as it will generate a support also for the ceiling. For such situation user needs to add a cylinder manually (filled one) or
* **option B**
User can add hollow cyliner (just its walls). This option can give similar or higher stiffness as regular support because solid walls increase endurance tahn thin support grid.
* **option C**
This option (my personal choose) has some advantages unavailable in A or B option. First - support doesn't have to have "ground" base. It means the yellow disk can really hang even if there is no bottom layer at all. Second - it joins walls with disk and walls together so the stiffness concerns other surfaces.
Depending on needs the cylinder (option A or B) can be transformed into a cross or pillar (thinner than cylinder itself). It can be more taper expandint to the top or to the bottom.
There could be even option where the above one would be joined with option C. So these (3) ribs would raise from the bottom but not from the walls.
# Answer
> 3 votes
In Slic3r, this can be solved by selecting a suited infill pattern and density, while enabling the only infill where needed-option:
* Personally, I have found the concentric infill pattern to provide good support for models with internal overhang, although other patterns might work as well. I would try different patterns at ~30% infill and inspect the result in the print previewer.
* The option of using only infill where needed will generate internal supports where needed without filling the entire model. That could be what you are looking for.
# Answer
> 1 votes
In Cura 2 you can do several things:
1. Design internal support pillars, and make them an Infill Mesh via the Per-object settings. I suggest you also reduce the top/bottom thickness and Wall thickness of the infill mesh.
2. Enable Hollow Out Objects and enable support.
3. Enable gradual infill: increase the Gradual Infill Steps. Although this will still make infill everywhere it will drastically reduce the infill where it's less needed.
---
Tags: 3d-design, support-structures, infill
--- |
thread-3824 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3824 | Flow Settings in Cura 2.4 for Ultimaker 2+ not available (suspected overextrusion filling small holes) | 2017-04-04T10:02:51.553 | # Question
Title: Flow Settings in Cura 2.4 for Ultimaker 2+ not available (suspected overextrusion filling small holes)
Cura 2.4 reports that the (printer-dependant) G-Code mode prevents the "Flow" (extrusion rate adjustment percentage) setting from being available. Why? I am using an Ultimaker 2+. Is a firmware update required?
I know the "Flow" can by dynamically adjusted on the 3D printer (either in materials or while printing).
I am asking because I have small holes (1 mm) that seem to slice fine but get filled so the extrusion probably is not that optimally tuned. I suspected reducing the material rate would improve this but changing it on the printer (97%) did not yield noticable results and below that it looked worse.
# Answer
For the Ultimaker 2 flow is typically handled on the printer.
You could make a feature request at github to let Flow be enabled for Ultimaker 2 printers.
As for your problem: that sounds more like a dimensional accuracy problem to me. I suggest setting Horizontal Expansion to -0.15mm.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion, ultimaker-2
--- |
thread-711 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/711 | Settings for CuraEngine | 2016-03-08T19:41:20.913 | # Question
Title: Settings for CuraEngine
What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?
```
CuraEngine.exe -v -o "c:\3d\test.gcode" "c:\3d\test.stl"
```
# Answer
> 4 votes
I think the easiest thing is to use the Cura application together with CuraEngine. If your printer is not supported, you'll need to add it manually by adding a JSON here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/machines But when you are done you can easily choose all the features you want. For example: generating supports, printing order when printing multiple models, etc. Cura and CuraEngine are developed at the same time, so you can expect that all features supported by the engine are accessible by the UI.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, CuraEngine/src/settings/settings.cpp helpful.
The latest release has more speed customization. You can change first layer speed, outer shell speed, inner shell speed, infill speed, and top and bottom speed.
You can cut objects, its just a little wonky. In the advanced tab there is a "cut off object at Z height" that you can use to cut objects in half.
Theoretically, you can put all settings into a JSON formatted file.
# Answer
> 2 votes
First, try
```
CuraEngine.exe --help
```
The proper way is to first load in settings from the `.def.json` file of your printer. However, the formulae in the machine definition file are not being processed. CuraEngine only uses the `default_value`.
Then you specify setting overrides to set specific settings to a specific value. The specified settings are applied to the last provided object/extruder and otherwise globally.
```
CuraEngine.exe -v -j machine.def.json -s global_setting=global_value
-e1 -s setting=extruder_value
-l object_to_be_printed_with_second_extruder.stl -s setting=object_value
-o output.gcode
```
One-at-a-time mode is done by adding `--next` commands between each group:
```
CuraEngine [general settings] -g [settings for the first model] --next [settings for the next model]
```
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-3543 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3543 | Changing raster angle, raster width and build orientation in Ultimaker Cura | 2017-02-06T21:44:25.397 | # Question
Title: Changing raster angle, raster width and build orientation in Ultimaker Cura
I want to try out different combinations of
* raster angle,
* raster width and
* build orientation
in Ultimaker Cura.
I don't see any settings where I could change these. I am using Cura 2.3
Any suggestions how I could change that?
# Answer
> 4 votes
First: Update Ultimaker Cura. The latest is currently 3.5.1.
You can specify the angles and widths with the settings Infill Line Directions and Infill Line Width.
If you want them differently for different objects on the build plate you can specify those settings in the per-object settings menu on the left.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4380 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4380 | Extending TronXY print bed | 2017-07-16T02:05:36.300 | # Question
Title: Extending TronXY print bed
I have a TronXY printer (i3 Clone). It has a 220x220 mm heated aluminum bed and I print with a Borosilicate glass plate.
I have a slightly longer print (245 mm) I would like to do and I think I could adjust to settings and end stop to stretch the y-dimension travel and I have found a 229x257 mm plate. This would extend over the edge of the aluminum bed.
Will the thermal conduction and mass of the glass plate be sufficient to still keep the bed warm enough?
# Answer
The aluminum plate is being heated by the heater element although I suspect the element does not encompass the entire area of the aluminum portion. There are going to be cooler spots on the aluminum but not enough to significantly affect the transfer to the glass.
Once you extend the glass, without a corresponding extension to the aluminum and/or heater element, you are ensuring cooler spots. The glass will be surrounded by air, and begin to conduct some of the heat, certainly, but will also radiate a substantial amount.
If you are printing with PLA, you may get away with doing this modification. Very little of the heat from the aluminum will reach the glass.
A quick check shows the thermal conductivity of aluminum to be 205 W/m K compared to borosilicate glass at 1.2 W/m K in the range of temperature used for 3D printing. I did not research the rate of energy dissipation for the same range of temperatures, but if it's not too high (unlikely), it would still take forever for the unheated areas of glass to reach temperature.
Consider your extension to be an unheated bed and print accordingly.
> 3 votes
# Answer
After Fred's answer, I realized there was a way to test out how much the temperature would drop by offsetting my current glass base to extend past the exge then using a FLIR IR Camera to see what the effect would be.
Here are the results:
The the glass plate does seem act a bit as an insulator causing the print surface to be about 1°C cooler. Here are two photos showing that.
As Fred proposed, where the glass extends past the base, the temperature drops pretty quickly. It is still warmer than ambient; but is definitely not "Hot".
> 2 votes
---
Tags: heated-bed, tronxy-x3
--- |
thread-3173 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3173 | Unable to load G-code in Ultimaker Cura | 2016-12-12T19:05:54.683 | # Question
Title: Unable to load G-code in Ultimaker Cura
I have generated a few 3D prints in G-code using KISSlicer and Slic3r, but when I load them into Ultimaker Cura I'm unable to get anything. The number of layers says one but I cannot see anything and print option is not working. I have viewed these G-codes online and they are fine. I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with v2 toolhead (hexagon) and I can print only using Ultimaker Cura. Please tell me what the reason for this is.
# Answer
Update:
**Cura 2.5, and higher, *does* load and print G-code**.
(The support was added April 19, 2017.)
> 4 votes
# Answer
Cura prior to version 2.5 does not take G-code as an input. I'm not sure what you mean by "print only using Cura." Don't you have a SD slot on your control board? For that matter, why can't you drive the USB port from Slic3r?
Remember: G-code is the equivalent of "compiled code," the raw commands which drive the printer, while STL or OBJ, etc., are the "source code," which you edit to get the shape you want.
I've looked at a few apps which will render a 3D image on your computer from G-code, but I don't know off-hand of one which will "decompile" into a STL or mesh file.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-4449 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4449 | How to "paint" a mesh on a stl/obj | 2017-08-02T00:26:23.020 | # Question
Title: How to "paint" a mesh on a stl/obj
I have almost 0 experience in 3d modeling and I'm looking for a simple way to color a model.
I want to replicate this paint job of a model.
I've tried Blender, tried Mudbox and I don't have the money for Mari which is the software being used in the video.
The issue with both is that it seems to take forever to try and paint them. It's a high-poly model with a bunch of vertices. Both programs seize up and hang and I'm forced to quit them.
How can I simply and efficiently color the model to get it ready for sandstone color printing?
# Answer
If you've looked into using Blender, you would have discovered that that program is free. It is also one of the better suited programs available for the task you've selected.
It's possible that your search terms may not have provided the best results for your objective. The task you describe is known as UV mapping, also known as adding texture to mesh, adding texture to a model. The generic term "texture" can be confused, as many people would consider texture to be the feel of a surface. Rough, smooth, slippery, etc., do not apply here.
Texture in the 3D modeling world applies to a surface description specific to visibility. In your task, texture refers directly to color.
Consider to search using the above terms or follow this lead: Add texture to model Blender
Doing so provided a few quite well written links. One of the first to appear is an Instructable.
The above Instructable also links to a video, which is also a good location for learning basics for Blender and texturing models.
The above search also results in finding an SE entry directly related to Blender: StackExchange Blender texture Q/A
Consider that you can create a flat image using your preferred graphics editor, placing shapes and colors as needed and then "project" or paste or plaster or project that image on the surface of the model in a controlled manner. This would be easier and faster than attempting to color manually individual triangles of the model's mesh. The SE link summarizes this process, although additional research is indicated.
Practice with Blender on simplified models and you should be able to grasp the necessary skills in short order.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, software
--- |
thread-4457 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4457 | Filament not feeding then eventually blocked | 2017-08-04T06:41:29.940 | # Question
Title: Filament not feeding then eventually blocked
I have an ANET A2 Prusa - which I've setup and performed a few prints on and they have various problems with the quality. I'm after some specific experience on what the flow of filament should look like or if my decription triggers someone
I've been adjusting settings - In particular the temperature - as the filament seemed too fluid as I could easily cause a large spurt of molten plastic by manually pushing the filament with very little effort.
So I reduced the head temperature to 195 and all seemed better
However after a time - I noticed on a longer print that the feeding was sometimes failing with the filament jerking back as the feeder slipped off it
The stepper did not appear to slip back just the gear skipped on the filament It appeared to cause a problem in the print with a few of the lines being missing before it started extruding normally again
I increased the temperature back to 200 - however the issue continued intermittently however I left it and when I returned the head had become blocked with the final part of the succesful print consisting of very thin hair like extrusions and eventually stopping completely
The head is flooded and I need to clean it out
So my questions are - how runny should the filament look when the head is at the correct temperatures, is the extremely runny filament I saw at 200 obviously too hot - or is that normal or at least have people seen it looking like that when successfully printing?
Initially , before I reduced the temperature, I doubled the skirt and that seem to make a good enough print
Does anyone have experience of why it can seem to be printing but then slowly start failing until the head becomes blocked?
# Answer
From my experience with mk8 extruders lower than optimal nozzle temperature or clogged nozzle can lead to an extruder's stepper motor overheating and partial burning out of a stepper
It looks like “Achilles' heel” of mk8 extruders. I had to change 4 stepper motors for 2 3d printers with mk8 due to that
First symptoms – skipped steps. You could also check a temperature of your stepper – next symptom is a high temperature of stepper motor after several hours of printing
My fix for this issue – adding cooling fans to stepper sides and top (3 fans). It significantly reduced overheating and hopefully a life of stepper
Another solution of this issue can be in using of a stepper motor with gearbox to increase torque on a filament gear, so no high torque needed from stepper itself
About printing temperature, it depends on plastic which you are using
I’m using ABS plastic with an optimal printing temperature from 230-260 Celsius degree. For my current plastic supplier optimal temp is about 255 Celsius degree
To check the optimal temperature for your plastic you can print one box in different temperatures depending on Z position and found the optimal temperature by the z position of surface with the best quality. You can find code samples how doing it here
If a temperature is too high then this part of the box will be bloated, if it's too low - you can see the gaps. Here is the video, which illustrating this for PLA
**UPDATE:**
The issue was in the low temperature of printing. After calibration and setting temperature by calibration outcomes to 200 Celsius degree printer started working well
However, please be aware of the fact that wrong printing temperature can not only decrease the quality of printed things, but also can lead to wear of your printer parts and even can break it
> 3 votes
# Answer
From my experience with few printer, Sometime it's happen because of the filament. Solution- If your printer have unload function or if you don't have that funstion select a printerable file and change temperature to 205-210 C and try to use long and thin hex key like this to push the filament out. -Make sure you extruder motor work accordingly to feed the nozzle.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament, extruder, print-material
--- |
thread-3366 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3366 | Silver Solder specifications for hot end heating element | 2017-01-09T16:25:36.013 | # Question
Title: Silver Solder specifications for hot end heating element
In this question I was told that I should use silver solder to connect the heating element to the power supply.
(I was also told that a ceramic extruder head was the way to go, but I'm working with what I have)
I bought two types of silver solider from Radio Shack:
* 96/4 Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead-Free 0.62" diameter.
* 62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Solder, 0.15" diameter.
Is there any reason I should use one of these over the other to power the heading element of the J-Head extruder?
# Answer
> 8 votes
The first is not suitable. ASTM96TS Sn96Ag4 has a melting point of 221–229 °C according to Wikipedia. Pb96Ag4 would be OK, but that is not lead free so doesn't seem to match your description. *Update from comment to explain the letters and numbers: the data comes from wikipedia, the numbers are Tin(Sn) 62%, Pb(Lead) 36%, Ag(Silver) 2%, for example, see below for an electronics solder compound*.
Sn62Pb36Ag2 is an ordinary expensive electronics solder (but not lead free), with an even lower melting point.
You need to find a high temperature silver solder, with a melting point of about 305 °C (which confusingly might be a soft silver solder), for example one of these. Hard silver solders melt at 600 °C, that would be excessive in this application.
The nomenclature 'silver solder' came about before lead-free electronics solder was introduced, since when more alloys containing silver have become popular as general purpose solders.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Use ferrules to join wires, and on your board either solder directly (it doesn't matter what solder you use because it's not going to get hot if your wires are gauged properly). Or use soft copper wires and clamping terminals without the wires being tinned or risk a fire hazard.
Tinning makes the surface harder which makes for less contact area. If it deforms from heat , it can come loose and cause arcs, which is where the fire hazard comes from.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I can't comment yet, but for those wondering, the issue with tinning the wires is when you are clamping them. Tinning them actually increases the resistance between the wires and terminal, due to making them harder and not getting squished out to make more contact with the terminal. This increased resistance means increased heat, and enough heat means fire.
> The reason for the prohibition is that when you fully tin a multistrand wire fully, the solder wicks between the strands of copper and forms a solid block, part of whose volume is metallic solder. When you clamp the solder and copper bundle you tighten the screw or clamp against the solder block, and in time the solder metal "creeps" under the compressive forces and the join loses tension. The wire can then either pull out or cause a high resistance connection with heating.
Source
---
Tags: extruder, prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-4455 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4455 | Monoprice Select Mini v2 clogged Boden tube connection | 2017-08-03T05:41:39.517 | # Question
Title: Monoprice Select Mini v2 clogged Boden tube connection
I have had my Monoprice Select Mini v2 for about two weeks now and I get a clicking noise on my filament insert on some prints and when I check a few minutes later, I can see that it's not extruding and that there is a clog of some sort.
I checked to see whethere there was possibly a clog in my hot end or nozzle, but there was nothing there. So I checked my Boden tube to see if the filament was brittle and had broken, but I found that there was plastic with a slight twist clogged in the Boden tube connector. When it first happened I had used an Allen wrench to push the plastic out. The second time it was harder and took heating the connector piece up to melt the plastic and pull it out.
Now I know (from the ticking) that my gear feeder is making a clicking noise - as it did when it was clogged. So when I hear that, I just push the lever to loosen it and it sounds like it releases tension. So is there a way to stop this or prevent it? I tried upping the temperature on the nozzle but it didn't help much. I'm printing from an average of 60°C and a high of 80°C with PLA.
# Answer
If you are heating your hotend to 60/80, that is *WAY* too low. PLA should be at 180+ hotend, and if you are using a heated bed, 60-80.
I would try increasing the heat of your hotend, starting at 180 and increasing if it looks like it is underextruding or if you get more clogs.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: monoprice-select-mini, ptfe-tube
--- |
thread-4472 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4472 | How is the print time of an object to be printed estimated? | 2017-08-08T20:51:19.497 | # Question
Title: How is the print time of an object to be printed estimated?
I am curious about the algorithm/principles behind the estimates that the slicing softwares provide. Is there a standard technique behind this and how accurate is it ?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Generally speaking, the typical algorithm takes into account the slicer's speed settings for specific features of the build, such as infill, perimeters, top/bottom layers, etc. The distance traveled by the nozzle at a specific speed for each feature is also part of the equations involved. There are some rather vague portions of the nozzle movement based on acceleration and other factors which makes the calculations less accurate.
> How accurate is it?
Not too accurate. My experience with three different slicers is that it's never been within better than ten percent. I believe the various combinations of features of a build are not going to be identical from one model to the next, preventing even a ballpark figure to be created from previous builds.
# Answer
> 5 votes
Much of the software used in 3D printing is open-source, and so are some slicers. Cura, for instance, does (or did, this source code is from an older branch) its print time estimation in gcodeInterpreter.py.
The relevant portion of the source code is (simplified and with many lines removed for clarity):
```
totalMoveTimeMinute = 0.0
pos = util3d.Vector3()
for line in gcodeFile:
G = self.getCodeInt(line, 'G')
if G is not None:
if G == 0 or G == 1: #Move
x = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'X')
y = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Y')
z = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Z')
e = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'E')
f = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'F')
oldPos = pos.copy()
pos.x = x
pos.y = y
pos.z = z
feedrate = f
currentE = e
totalMoveTimeMinute += (oldPos - pos).vsize() / feedRate
```
As you can see, (this version of) Cura simply:
* Loops over all the G-code instructions,
* Computes the length of each move (in X/Y/Z) and divides that by the feedrate to get the time that move will take,
* Sums this up over all the moves.
and does not take into account:
* Acceleration or deceleration. It assumes the printer is always operating at the maximum feedrate,
* The length of filament extruded. The feedrate is the speed for the move in (X,Y,Z,E), but Cura only looks at (X,Y,Z).
* The time it takes to heat up the print bed/hotend or homing/autoleveling,
* The effects of the printer slowing down if moves can not be read (from USB/SD-card) sufficiently fast (though this would be rather hard to include in any estimate).
The accuracy of this estimate can be arbitrarily bad if the feedrate is set to some unrealistic value.
Newer versions of Cura use a much more advanced time estimate method, and it can be found in timeEstimate.cpp. It is much more complicated, and actually takes jerk/acceleration/deceleration into account. It is much more accurate.
We know *exactly* how 3D (open source) 3D printer firmwares work, so estimating print time is as easy as simulating execution of the G-code by your given firmware. There is no reason you can't get a really good estimation (if you take into account all of the intricacies of your given firmware's acceleration/deceleration techniques) but writing the code for it is rather involved.
---
Tags: slicing, g-code
--- |
thread-4411 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4411 | Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints | 2017-07-22T18:26:18.357 | # Question
Title: Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints
How do I speed up prints for the Monoprice Select IIIP Plus printer?
The manual shows \[Cura\] examples of:
* Print speed: 50mm/s
* Travel Speed: 80mm/s
* Bottom Layer Speed: 20mm/s
* Infill Speed: 50mm/s
* Outer shell speed: 15mm/s
* Inner shell speed: 30mm/s
However, this doesn’t line up with their advertisements online of a 150mm/s printing speed.
Are there better settings to use, especially ones which can speed up printing time? Or are there any other measures which I can take in order to reduce printing time in general?
# Answer
In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0-\>150 before changing direction again.
Some more effective ways of speeding up prints is to adjust
* Layer height
* Infill percentage (15-25% for regular prints, more if they need to be more sound)
* Supports
* Number of shells, etc
> 6 votes
# Answer
I was using Cura's default settings for a Prusa I3 on my MonoPrice Select V2 (model #13860), and got horrible results frequently. Then I used the settings you list, and got very nice results. Compare the below images for the bottom layer of 4 benchys, with adhesion brim.
I'm using PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 60C for bed, 200C for extruder, 1.75mm filament from Hatchbox.
**Default Cura Settings**
**Listed Settings**
**Settings breakdown**
```
Setting Cura default Recommended
Print Speed 60 50
Outer Wall Speed 30 15
Inner Wall Speed 60 30
Top/Bottom Speed 30 20
Travel Speed 120 80
```
**Symptoms of my printer being told to print too fast:**
Material would not adhere properly to the print bed, and would start making clumps. These would rest either on the bed, or on the nozzle itself. The ones on the bed would grow taller than layer height, making the next pass of the nozzle bump against it, further depositing material on it. The clumps on the nozzle would drop at other points, leaving stringing filament all over, and further compromising the next pass of the head.
This might seem like a bed adhesion problem, but the prints were *very* well attached to the bed; I had to apply a lot of force to remove a 15\*15cm square from the bed.
Increasing the hot-end temperature seemed to help; at some point we were printing at 230C, well beyond Hatchbox' extrusion temperature range (range is listed as 180C-210C for this PLA batch).
Ultimately, reducing print speed to the settings listed helped us increase print quality back to acceptable levels.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, speed
--- |
thread-4471 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4471 | Converting a mesh to constructive solid geometry | 2017-08-08T18:59:07.597 | # Question
Title: Converting a mesh to constructive solid geometry
I have a mesh of a bowl that has the perfect shape of half a sphere. I want to easily convert it to the containing sphere solid and a box solid that will be subtracted from it.
Googling mesh to solid shows that in various tools such as 3ds Max, Fusion, etc., manual approximation of where the sphere might go is created manually by visually comparing to the mesh or the cross section when creating the solid but I am looking for the minimum enclosing sphere and box to be generated/calculated by the software.
Source file format is of course not an issue, it can be any known mesh file.
# Answer
> 3 votes
The answers by @markshancock and @fred-dot-u describe the process of creating a CAD primitive sphere and subtracting a cube; this is a trivial task in most any 3D CAD program. You could manually measure the mesh to determine its dimensions, and frankly, I would recommend this approach. (If you have a large task like converting 100,000 half-sphere meshes, I'd re-think the approach and go to the source that generated the meshes in the first place!)
However, these don't address converting the mesh to a primitive, which is normally not possible for arbitrary meshes (therefore a CAD program will not have such a function), and much more difficult than simply measuring and re-creating.
You assert that your mesh file "has the perfect shape of half a sphere". A mesh is basically on a collection of vertices, joined by edges and faces. The vertices are defined by numeric coordinates, and in a computer will always have some rounding errors, and the linear edges and planar faces are most definitely not round. Therefore, it may be incredibly close, but it will most definitely not be perfect.
In this *very* particular case, the diameter of the sphere is the same as the diameter of the circular face of your half-sphere. You could plausibly write a simple program that would locate the maximum distance between any two vertices in your mesh and use that for the diameter. The midpoint of the line between those two points would be the center of the sphere. This should produce a good result but may not be "exact" depending on the details of the mesh.
I won't try to explain how to create the actual program as that is not in the scope of 3D printing.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The calculations for your objective could be considered simple geometry, although the results in terms of formulae are a bit more complex than simple, but not by much.
According to Quora, the foundation for this goal is that the cube's eight vertices will be coincidental to the sphere's surface. If one desires to print a 3D object with this form, such an object may fail the requirement of being manifold, but may not, depending on the floating point operations of the software being used.
I found a simplistic formula which provides the radius of the sphere given the length of the side of the cube.
```
$fn = 90;
edge = 10;
cube([edge, edge, edge], center = true);
sphere_radius = sqrt((3 * pow((edge/2), 2)));
sphere(sphere_radius);
```
The above code is done in OpenSCAD, resulting in this image with the sphere made transparent for clarity:
Translated into general English, it appears that one can take the edge length, divided by 2, then take the square of that result and triple it. Take the square root of that value and it becomes the radius of the sphere.
The above answer is courtesy of Math Forum and is represented verbatim as such:
```
____________________________
D = \| (L/2)^2 + (L/2)^2 + (L/2)^2
```
The letter D in this case appears to be slightly misrepresented as diameter when it should be referred to as radius.
As part of this fun exercise, I also subtracted the cube from the sphere, slicing it in half for visibility, resulting in this image:
# Answer
> 1 votes
So it depends a lot on what you want to do.
1. If you want to mathematically calculate what cube fits in what size sphere, that is straight forward. The diagonal for the cube has to fit into the diameter of the shere. For a cube with edge 'l' and a shpere with diamamer 'd' then \<= d.
2. If you want to model a cube and a sphere in CAD (or one inside the other) you just do it. They are both primitives. Takes less than a minute.
3. You can use a mesh in a design too. I would assume if you are wanting to use a mesh, the mesh must contain something other than just a smooth bowl or what the point of the mesh? Fusion 360 allows you to import a mesh and play with it just like that and combine it with model objects (just like the box).
4. You can actually convert a mesh into a solid model if you want to too. Fusion 360 CAD has ways to help you convert that mesh to a sculpt. First create a sculpt object that represents the shape of the mesh object (like a sphere or a quadraball). Next import the mesh then collapse the model over the mesh (using it like a model to form a mold). You can then delett the mesh and use the molded sculpt.
---
Tags: 3d-models, cad
--- |
thread-3910 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3910 | Having trouble getting first layer support to stick | 2017-04-23T17:30:35.137 | # Question
Title: Having trouble getting first layer support to stick
I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail. Any ideas on how I can fix it?
I'm using Slic3r.
# Answer
There are many things you'll need to check and/or confirm to ensure that you will have a good bond to the bed. The first is to confirm that you are using a genuine Prusa printer as it appears in the photo. Having built one recently makes it easier for me to guess that is the case.
Have you performed the bed calibration sequence? The manual provides a series of steps which results in a zig-zag pattern of filament being placed on the bed, while the z-height is adjusted from the panel. You want to have a filament trace that is only slightly squished onto the bed, not flattened so much that it's cutting into the PEI and not so high that it's nearly cylindrical.
The bed must be of the correct temperature for the filament selected. If in doubt, raise it five to ten degrees C. I recently assisted with the aforementioned printer that had a peeling problem and the bed temperature had to be raised to 70°C from the "standard" 55°C generated by Slic3r.
It is critical that the bed be clean as well. Denatured alcohol is recommended, with application of a clean cloth.
Your photo is somewhat out of focus, making it difficult to determine if the brim is being created at an excessively high z-level, which will cause peeling. The main body of the print, also out of focus appears to be heavily flattened, but that could be an artifact of the photo.
The reflections on the bed appear to indicate that some gouges in the surface exist. If your PEI is damaged, you will have the problem you described. I've seen videos in which the bed is not quite as gouged and was refreshed with very light sandpaper or very light steel wool or both. Of course, after using such material, clean the surface thoroughly.
I understand the PEI that is applied by the manufacturer is quite thin and can be further damaged if too much pressure is applied while refreshing. It is far better to apply too little pressure if you plan to perform this task.
Consider to read through the manual and address all of the calibration aspects of the printer to establish a base point for the problem you are experiencing.
> 3 votes
# Answer
If you are using PLA, putting blue painter's tape down on the print bed will really increase adhesion. You can also lightly sand the blue tape with a piece of fine sandpaper to further increase bed adhesion.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had a similar issue where slic3r generated supports that attach directly to the bed, but didn't put enough material around the thin supports on the first layer, so they didn't stick to the bed.
To solve this I added a brim, see "skirt and brim" under "print settings". This puts more material around both the part and also the supports on the first layer.
I didn't need the brim round the whole part as it was sticking to the bed just fine anyway, but this was the only way I could find to give the thin supports the wide base they need to stick to the bed. I used a 5mm brim, but I am sure it would work with less than this.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: slic3r, support-structures
--- |
thread-4389 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4389 | Octoprint: Reducing Camera Lag Time? | 2017-07-17T00:55:10.760 | # Question
Title: Octoprint: Reducing Camera Lag Time?
I've got a webcam (Logitech ProductID\_2470, according to my Mac) attached to my Octopi running on a RPi 3B.
I am able to get the video on the Octoprint display page, but the lag is huge: over 50 seconds.
How can I diagnose the problem and reduce this lag time?
# Answer
This was due to a slow Wifi connection. It was fast enough for the low bandwidth of printer commands and status reports, but the video feed was overwhelming the connection.
Adding a Wifi repeater increased the bandwidth and fixed the issue.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: octoprint
--- |
thread-4489 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4489 | Monoprice MP Mini Delta - How to get started? | 2017-08-14T00:36:39.433 | # Question
Title: Monoprice MP Mini Delta - How to get started?
I just got a Monoprice MP Mini Delta from an Indiegogo Campaign, but it came with no printed docs.
How do I get started?
# Answer
## Updated Manual
* Turns out an out of date manual was on the sd card that was included with the printer. But it was definitely out of date, as it referenced UI items that don't exist, and files that weren't on the SD card.
* An updated manual can be found here or possibly out of date here
## Resources and sample files
* A very helpful Facebook group has a bunch of files that are good sample prints. If your manual says you can print a `cat.gcode` you've got an old manual.
* Note: Don't try and just google `cat.gcode` as I did. The model I found rammed the print head right into the bottom of the printer. The correct model works great (actually called auto00.g on the SD card)
* Another great reference site appears to be https://www.mpminidelta.com/, and this reddit
## Common Problems and Solutions
The following are some problems I had and their solution
### Can't print custom models
If you find you can print prebuilt gcodes fine (cat,viking,toothless), but can't seem to print any other models without the print head ramming into the bottom of the printer and going off to the side, you probably haven't setup the autoleveling gcode that's **required**. You can add something like the following line to your software, in a "startup" gcode section. This is detailed in the manual (just search for G29), and more info can be found here
```
; auto-levels the build plate with a overall vertical
; offset of 0.3mm with a center offset of -0.8mm
G29 C-0.8 Z0.3
```
### First layer doesnt stick
If you find your first layer isn't sticking, or it seems like the plastic is balling up, you need to adjust your startup gcode line mentioned above , so it has a lower Z offset, like Z0.25 for example
```
G29 Z[offset] ; raises
G29 Z-[offset] ; lowers
```
Notes * Please try a positive offset value first.
* Each printer will require fine tuning in regards to the offset value.
* Start with a higher value and decrease as necessary to get good first layer adhesion.
* Using a negative offset value may send the nozzle digging into the build plate.
> 9 votes
---
Tags: monoprice-mini-delta
--- |
thread-4496 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4496 | How to prevent layer separation, when printing tall vase-like (tube) objects? | 2017-08-15T09:28:01.347 | # Question
Title: How to prevent layer separation, when printing tall vase-like (tube) objects?
I am experiencing a minor layer separation when printing a body for a tipping-bucket rain gauge, which is basically a hollow tube with thin walls (3 mm). I am using **Prusa I3 MK2** and a **Fillamentum ABS** white plastic. The model has been sliced in **Siplify 3D** with the following settings:
* layer height: 0.2 mm
* perimeter shells: 3 layers (almost entirely fills up the wall)
* extruder temperature: 230 °C
* printing speed: default - 50 mm/s, outline - 35 mm/s, infill - 35 mm/s
Is it possible to prevent the irregular and layer separation by adjusting some of the settings, and not significantly increasing the printing time, which is already 13 hours?
PICTURES:
# Answer
> 4 votes
The best thing you can do for a large ABS print is to have an enclosure heated to 50C or better. For example, see this, this, this, and other search results.
# Answer
> 0 votes
increasing the temperature by 5 to 10° as well as, increasing the layer thickness to "0.3" or "0.35" may assist ,additionally increasing the flow rate of the filament, by a small margin at most 10%. These options should improve the quality of the print as they improve the layer adhesion, however none of these options will completely solve the problem.
alternatively you can repair the current print. In order to do this you will need to use something cot such as a soldering iron with a variable temperature, to melt and rejoined the layers. similarly you can use a 3d pen to apply additional plastic across the sections of separation in order to repair it.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, abs, simplify3d
--- |
thread-4487 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487 | PLA continuous operative temperature | 2017-08-13T15:21:25.787 | # Question
Title: PLA continuous operative temperature
For personal usage, indoor, I'm doing some experiments with following lamp (v0.1):
Lamp is a led bulb enclosed in a methacrylate tube and with a 3D printed finish at the top using PLA (my first 3d print ;-).
In some www pages (by example, here) I've read that the led buld radiator can reach 90º C. Experimentally, the methacrylate and the PLA feels only slightly hot, I suppose around 40ºC.
According to www info, PLA has a melting point of 150ºC, far from this usage, but a continuous operative temperature of only 40ºC ( !? this made 3d printing unable in a country as my own one, where ambient in summer is around 40ºC).
So, my question, is PLA a valid material for this application? If not, some other one better?
Thanks a lot.
# Answer
EvilTeach's answer is correct, ABS is a more reliable plastic for any kind of work which may get above what feels "hot to the touch."
Just to elaborate on the why: the property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the continuous operating temperature) is **glass transition temperature**. This is the point at which the plastic begins to flow, and becomes deformable as EvilTeach described. PLA reaches this state at around **60 °C**, whereas ABS is around **105 °C**, just suiting your specifications. To go a bit further, polycarbonate offers a glass transition temperature of around 150 °C, and Ultem at 217 °C. So there's a thermoplastic for everyone, you just need to know what you're looking for!
> 6 votes
# Answer
I had a PLA print that would weaken and deform when sitting in the car on a hot day. I think you should try it with ABS.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: pla, print-material
--- |
thread-4310 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4310 | 3D printing for storage card shell? | 2017-06-29T22:37:19.573 | # Question
Title: 3D printing for storage card shell?
I know nothing about 3D printing and I was wondering if it is a good candidate for what I want to make.
I want to make a custom game cartridge which looks like this:
Basically it's like a SD card in a custom shell. Now I can produce the inside as a thin PCB (0.6mm-1mm). But I was wondering what the best (and cheapest) way to prototype (and maybe make a small run production) the outer shell would be. The entire cart is about 2mm thick, so each half of the shell would be at most ~0.6mm thick.
Is this something I can do with a typical 3D printer? How would I "attach" the two halves together?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Typically, for FDM, the resolution is different for height compared with the x-y plane.
In x-y, you will be constrained by the nozzle diameter (0.4mm is common), which effectively quantises your wall thickness (0.4, 0.8, 1.2 etc). These walls can be placed with maybe 0.05mm precision.
In Z, the constraint is to be less than the nozzle, so 0.12 or 0.2 mm is common.
So you can easily make a half which is around 1mm thick, with a 0.3mm high wall. You would want the majority of the wall width to be 0.8 or 1.2 mm at least, but you could probably arrange an overlap between the two parts to allow some tolerance and increase the glueing area.
A flat print of only a single layer is possible, but it won't be as accurately dimensioned (due to bed-leveling accuracy). A single layer with a wall would work, but might be too flexible.
# Answer
> 4 votes
With the experience I have with my 3d printer you can make (almost) everything you can draw with it.
0.6mm parts can be 3d printed but will not be very strong though.
For joining the 2 halves when they are so thin, I think the best solution is to glue them together. With the things I make for myself I mostly use small screws or small nuts and bolts but with 0.6mm parts I guess this wil not be possible.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I print such parts by embedding the PCB directly in the print during the printing process: after the bottom part has been printed, there's a print pause gcode, the printer stops and beeps, I insert the PCB into a recess in the print, then the printer resumes when I press a button. I attach the bottom of the PCB to the print with a drop of a quick setting superglue so that it won't have a chance of getting loose and crashing into the nozzle as the next layer is printed. I use a 0.2mm nozzle to print SD card shells directly over PCB without any issue.
---
Tags: rapid-prototyping
--- |
thread-4484 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4484 | How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6? | 2017-08-13T01:31:20.750 | # Question
Title: How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?
On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in `/Applications/Cura250` and `/Applications/Cura262`.
How can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?
# Answer
> 3 votes
From the Ultimaker Forum:
* Launch Cura 2.6 and go to Help -\> Show Configuration folder. Now close Cura.
* These are the configuration files for Cura 2.6. They are in a folder named 2.6.
* On OSX, the configuration files for Cura 2.5 are one folder up (not in a folder named 2.5). You can copy files from that parent folder into the folder named 2.6, and Cura should update them as needed the next time it is started.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Hope this is all you need.
From the release notes page
> Cura 2.6 - June 20, 2017 Local version folders. When installing a new version of Cura, a new local directory will be created to make it easy to access old configuration folders and return to old settings if necessary.
So if you know where your current 2.5 config directory is, you should be all set.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-4509 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4509 | Is B-REP a ready to print mesh | 2017-08-19T13:27:50.473 | # Question
Title: Is B-REP a ready to print mesh
before a mesh can be printed it needs to be 'repaired'. According to most tutorials that is including making the shape close and removing inner shapes. Reading through B-REP in Wikipedia there is no layman term or explanation how it differs form the traditional polygonal mesh create for example from scanning or exporting from CAD. Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary and therefore ready to be printed?
# Answer
> 1 votes
a) about
> Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary \[..\] ?
B-Rep contains more information, see here:
> There are two types of information in a B-rep: topological and geometric. Topological information provide the relationships among vertices, edges and faces similar to that used in a wireframe model. In addition to connectivity, topological information also include orientation of edges and faces. Geometric information are usually equations of the edges and faces.
b) about
> and therefore ready to be printed
it is need not only check that the model is correct (no lack of a face, no wrong face normals, ...) but also that is valid for a 3d printer (no "floating" parts, addition of supports, ...).
Finally, recall the model is not what drives the printer, the printer is controlled by the machine instructions, usually gcode. Thus, the usual evolution is: parts description (.scad, ...), model format (.stl, ...) and machine instructions (.gcode).
---
Tags: 3d-models, cad, repair
--- |
thread-4505 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4505 | Which 3D printer is good for beginners? | 2017-08-18T16:59:06.553 | # Question
Title: Which 3D printer is good for beginners?
I was looking for some advice on which 3D printers are good for someone who is just getting into 3D printing?
I have been looking at the Anet A8 on ebay but not sure if they are any good or not.
Regards
# Answer
> 3 votes
Which printer for a beginner depends far more on the beginner in question than the various printers available.
* If you are comfortable assembling parts and figuring things out a number of options exist.
* If you need a fully-built object, a number of options exist.
* If you require lots of dedicated support, via phone or email, there are options.
* If you can ask questions in a forum and get the answers you need (or figure things out when you don't and post your answers for others to find) there are options.
If you have special/esoteric printing needs, that puts constraints on - if you kinda vaguely want a 3-D plastic printer, but don't really know what you want to use it for the field is wide open.
# Answer
> 2 votes
A budget would make answering your question alot easier. Do you have any experience with cad/cam software? What are you wanting to do with it? There are many inexpensive 3d printers but your skill level in mechanics/machinery, electronics, programming etc will also help others choose a good option for you. For example, plug and play units are usually more expensive than build your own models. But if you don't have the skill to assemble it the savings wasn't worth it
# Answer
> 1 votes
Short answer:
Anet A8 in Ebay will be probably a kit "do it yourself". Something not easy for starters.
I suggest you buy a cheap and ready to use one. A rebrand of Malyan M200 (Monoprice select mini in U.S., Prima Creator in Europe) or something similar.
**Long answer:**
To select a printer take into account:
* your experience in 3d printing
* your experience in electronics and software.
* your objective: learning, home user, professional?
* if it will be used by children.
* your budget
* the kind of materials you plan to use: PLA only, mainly PLA and ABS, others. PLA only printers are usually a few cheaper because they do not have heat bed.
* availability of support: official support, community size, market penetration.
* build volume
Taken into account previous criteria:
* Anet A8 is usually a Prusa diy kit. As all these kits, it is more suitable when there are experience in 3d and hardware/software.
* If the answer to previous questions is "no experience, home user, adults and childrens, medium badget, PLA&ABS, good support, small volume", a printer as Malyan M200 can be a good choice.
* A printer as Flashforge finder differs respect to the previous that it has no heated bed. That means it is more suitable for PLA only.
* (addition of more cases is welcome)
NOTE: This answer is a community wiki to promote multiple editions.
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design, print-quality, desktop-printer
--- |
thread-4521 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4521 | Single point Z-correction after 3-point auto-leveling | 2017-08-21T09:43:04.600 | # Question
Title: Single point Z-correction after 3-point auto-leveling
On my Monoprice Delta Mini, auto-leveling is performed based on three pushbuttons, on which the printer platform rests: The nozzle moves downwards until one of the buttons detects being pushed down. Using the `G29` G-code, this is performed automatically at three points close to the locations of these sensor buttons.
However, even after this calibration, the printer expects the platform at one of the test points to be lower than it actually is. Thus, when printing close to the front right sensor button, the printer "smears" the plastic onto the platform. At the other locations, the printing works fine. Therefore, I cannot simply adjust the overall Z-distance. (Multi-point auto-leveling gives even worse results since the platform tilts during the probing.)
Is there a G-code-based option to modify the Z-height of just one of the calibration points of the auto-leveling?
Edit: The bad leveling seems to be a common problem of this printer:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/73xcxg/leveling\_doesnt\_seem\_right/
https://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/6tqe7f/follow\_up\_on\_bed\_leveling\_issue/
Till now, nobody seems to have a solution.
# Answer
> 2 votes
There is no "standard" g-code, especially for the auxiliary functions of calibration, and even more so for the calibration of delta-class printers. I find that the Reprap Wiki includes a fairly comprehensive list: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap\_Firmware\_G-Codes and http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code. These lists address the RepRap firmware, although they include some g-code functions which are specific to other types of applications.
If the Monoprice Delta firmware is based on the RepRap firmware, the lists might be helpful, although detailed documention from Monoprice would be the best reference.
Assuming there is no available or known g-code to adjust this, you work from the hypothesis that your three switches are not responding identically. If possible, use a micrometer to measure the difference between the "idle" position of the bed and the point where the switch actuates. It could be that the front switch requires more travel before actuation, which would then cause the leveling calculation to have a lower point for the front switch. In the alternative to measuring, it may be possible to exchange the front switch with a rear/side switch and see if the problem moves.
Delta machines are more difficult to calibrate because everything interacts. The three actuator delta machine is a simplification of a more complex 6-axis Stewart platform. As I see it, a delta machine is a 6-actuator machine in which pairs of actuators operate "identically", except that minor variations cause unexpected positioning errors. Sometimes these are modeled as a bowl shape with positive or negative curvature, although measurements I've made on my home-brew delta show an error that looks more like a carpet in a high wind. Some factors improve the design, such as longer actuator arm pairs and smaller build diameter, which may help you with the Monoprice.
---
Tags: g-code, delta, monoprice-mini-delta
--- |
thread-4536 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4536 | Auto Bed Levelling - Printer not detecting, but sensor is triggering | 2017-08-24T00:37:58.567 | # Question
Title: Auto Bed Levelling - Printer not detecting, but sensor is triggering
Today I installed an inductive sensor (4 mm sensing distance, NPN) on my printer to perform auto-bed leveling. The sensor works at 12 V and the board at 5 V, so I used a voltage divider (as suggested in many places online) using a 10kOhm and a 15kOhm resistor.
In testing the sensor, I noticed that the sensor's LED turns on, but the printer (Anet A8) doesn't recognize the fact that the sensor is triggering. I'm running the Skynet3D firmware, though I still have not switched to the version with auto bed-leveling. Regardless, the inductive sensor should still act as a limit switch, yet the Z-Axis motor does not stop when the sensor triggers. Am I doing something wrong, or missing a step?
I have also measured the voltage across the leads that connect to the board and the voltage is slightly over 5 V when the sensor is not triggered, and lowers to around 2.5 V when the sensor triggers. I get the feeling it should be closer to 0 V.
Thank you very much for any help.
# Answer
Perhaps the culprit is a pull-up resistor on the board. Normally, endstops on 3D printers use the microcontroller's internal pullups. These have a resistance of around 50kΩ, which is far too high to be a problem. However, if lower value pull up resistors are used on your main board, this could cause a problem.
The resistor of your voltage divider form, when the output of the sensor is low, a parallel pair of resistors to ground, with an effective resistance equal to `1/(1/10+1/15) = 6kΩ`. If there was (let's say) a 4.7k pull-up resistor on the board, you'd expect to see around 2.8V on the output (because the pull-up resistor, together with the two resistors of your voltage divider, forms another voltage divider).
I don't have the Anet A8 main board myself, but on pictures I do see a set of 6 resistors suspiciously close to the thermistor and endstop connectors.
You could verify my suspicions by unplugging the endstop, powering down the electronics and then measuring the resistance between the endstop signal and 5V pins.
Possible solutions:
* Desolder the offending resistor. This is pretty easy with SMD parts: you just alternate between heating up both sides until it slides off.
* Use a diode in place of a voltage divider. Anode goes to the endstop connector, cathode to the signal of the probe. This prevents the high voltage of the probe from being seen by the electronics, while allowing the probe to drain the current from the pull-up resistor.
With this last solution, make sure the reverse leakage current of the diode is not too high. If it has a reverse current of (let's say) 50uA, then 50uA flowing through the (supposed 4.7k) pull-up to ground would raise the voltage at the signal pin to 5.002V. This is unlikely to be a problem, but with higher value resistors or higher leakage you'd see the voltage raise higher above 5V (which the microcontroller won't like).
> 3 votes
---
Tags: electronics
--- |
thread-4395 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4395 | Setup Creality CR-10 in Cura | 2017-07-18T10:36:55.007 | # Question
Title: Setup Creality CR-10 in Cura
Can anyone help me find/confirm the information needed to setup the CR-10 in the Cura Software
I have following settings from research:
**Printer Settings**
* x = 300 mm
* y = 300 mm
* z = 400 mm
* Build Plate = Rectangular
* Machine Center is Zero = Checked
* Heated Bed = Checked
* G-code Flavor = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) **-- Uncertain - please help confirm this**
**Print Head Settings**
* X min = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Y min = **Unclear where this comes from**
* X max = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Y max = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Gantry Height = **Unclear where this is measured from**
* Number of Extruders = 1
* Material Diameter - 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size = 0.4 mm
# Answer
**GCode flavor**: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Volumetric Marlin is not very common.
Print Head Settings **X/Y min/max** define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the right-most, front-most and back-most.
**Gantry Height** is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the lowest point of the gantry, which is the axle on which the print head is mounted.
These print head settings are only used for one-at-a-time printing.
> 5 votes
# Answer
In addition to this answer, the "Machine Center is Zero", should **not** be checked. It will begin the print in the current location of the Printing Head.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, creality-cr-10
--- |
thread-4545 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4545 | Marlin acceleration issue on corners | 2017-08-25T08:20:22.087 | # Question
Title: Marlin acceleration issue on corners
I use Simplify3D to slice my prints, and I've set it to print everything with 4000 Acceleration and 50 Acceleration for outer perimeters only.
Everything works fine, Marlin changes acceleration settings without issues, but with low accelerations my corners are bigger than they should:
The object I'm printing is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2478785
As you can see in the model, highlighted parts in the picture should have 90° corners with perfect straight lines.
It seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.
This happens with acceleration between 50 and 300. If I use 1000 as acceleration for perimeters the problem is gone, but I need to use small numbers in order to have clean corners and avoid ghosting.
Am I the only one experiencing this? What could be causing the issue?
# Answer
> It seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.
This is not the case. Marlin accelerates the extruder perfectly in sync with the printhead, and the speed of the extruder is perfectly proportional to the movement speed. However, the extruder itself has a certain amount of "lag": as you feed in filament, pressure builds up. As you stop feeding filament (or slow down), the built up pressure causes the extrusion to continue for a while. Thus, even with "correct" control of the extruder, you don't necessarily get the desired amount of extrusion.
Marlin has a feature, that you can enable in the advanced configuration file, called "extruder advance" or "linear advance". It looks at the acceleration/deceleration of the extruder, and advances the extruder a few extra steps when the speed increases, and backs it off again as the speed decreases. You will need to tune this feature to get rid of the overextrusion at the corners.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, marlin, acceleration
--- |
thread-4533 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4533 | Printer/Material/Setup recommendation for printing mechanical parts | 2017-08-22T23:31:18.417 | # Question
Title: Printer/Material/Setup recommendation for printing mechanical parts
I'm interested in printing small machine parts (gears, linkages, structural components) so I'm looking for accuracy and mechanical strength over speed and volume.
I'm also somewhat concerned about harmful emissions so would like a solution with some sort of filtration, whether it's built into the machine or something added. I'm thinking I will run the machine in an unventilated garage, which is quite warm and humid during the summer in Texas.
My price range is \\$1500-\\$2000 USD. I've looked at several options but I didn't really come across any scenarios like I've described and would like some advice from the experts before committing.
Anyone in a similar boat have any suggestions?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your environmental conditions will preclude finding a machine suitable for your purposes in the budget specified.
Humidity is a problem with many material types, especially nylon, but also with PLA and ABS, the more common filaments used in 3D printing.
You can likely reject PLA for your mechanical needs, as it is brittle and weak compared to ABS. PLA releases virtually no gases of concern, while some find ABS fumes to be offensive and dangerous.
The humidity issue is forefront in your search. You may have to construct within the garage a chamber in which you would operate a portable or window air conditioner unit, to keep the humidity in check. If you can assign a different budget to such a construction, that will leave your printer funding intact and better able to address your goal.
Selective Laser Sintering using nylon powder, also susceptible to humidity, which is sintered by a laser, hence the name, making very detailed and strong parts. The process is also self-supporting, allowing for fairly intricate parts. Once the machine is calibrated, the part accuracy can be quite good. Unfortunately, SLS machines are also out of the budget range you've noted.
You can use an external service to print the parts you design, at least at first, to get a better indication of how the various materials will work for you. Start with PLA, then move to ABS for a set of test parts, and even perhaps have some printed using SLS.
If you find, for example, that ABS will be strong enough, you might find an affordable 3D printer which will generate parts on your budget and timeline. For printing ABS, the warmer temperatures are to your advantage, but the humidity has to be properly addressed in any home/shop/garage installation.
# Answer
> 0 votes
There is more than one question here. Which touches three topics: the choice of appropriate 3D printing technique, the choice of materials, and control of any hazardous, noxious, or annoying out-gassing.
It is important to understand the limits of the 3D printing process you will choose. Each process has its own limits on repeatability and resolution of small features, such as gear teeth. A 10 pitch (teeth-per-inch) gear could print acceptably well with a low-cost printer, but the size of a 10-tooth gear would be 1/2" diameter. This could be a small part, or a huge part, depending on the use. To print an 1/8" diameter 10-tooth gear would require a 100 pitch gear likely would not, and would call for an optical process (laser sintering (SLS) or photo-polymerization (like the FormLabs Form 2)) or a dot-jetting process (such as the StrataSys Objet Connex machines). These are not in the budget you've suggested, but are available through service bureaus.
Answers here another community question give some hints for using a plastic-extrusion machine, and information about SLS.
Each process has different environmental requirements, and impacts, but first should be to understand the requirements of the parts, based on those choose a process and material, and then mitigate the environmental factors.
---
Tags: print-quality, print-material, ventilation
--- |
thread-4562 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4562 | Anet A8 extruder is clicking and not extruding | 2017-08-28T22:15:47.773 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 extruder is clicking and not extruding
I was printing with my Anet A8 and it pulled the filament spool off of the shelf I have the printer on and forced the filament out of the extruder. I took apart the extruder and removed the debris that was left inside, re-leveled the bed and tried to start another print. When the extruder tries to feed the filament it makes a clicking sound and won't extrude. How do I fix this?
# Answer
There are a number of unanswered questions which may serve as a guideline to narrow down a solution.
Instead of attempting a new print, consider to remove the filament again. Shine a light from below and look into the barrel of the extruder to determine if you can see light. If this is mechanically impractical, move to next option.
Manually feed the filament into the extruder. Use the panel to advance the filament rather than creating a print. Does the filament feed properly?
If yes, the problem is not in the extruder system, nor the heat block or hot end. You said you re-leveled the bed. Double check that the nozzle is not being blocked by the bed, preventing filament from extruding.
If the filament does not feed properly, you may not have completely cleared the heat break, hot end, or nozzle. If you can get or have nylon filament in the correct size, perform a nylon cleaning operation. This involves removing the existing filament, raising the nozzle temperature to 240°C while pushing nylon through. You have to be able to manually force the filament through until you see only clean nylon from the nozzle.
I have had to push nylon in at the correct temperature, then pull it back out without any extrusion due to the depth of the blockage.
After you've pushed as much as you can to get clean nylon (or none), cool the hot end to descend below 140°C. After a moment or two, set the temperature to 140°C and forcibly remove the filament from the upper portion of your assembly. It may require pliers and substantial force to get this out.
Repeat the heating, extrusion (or attempts), removal until you get clean nylon from the nozzle and clean nylon at the tip of the removed filament.
Only just today, I had to clear my nozzle using this method, but I was unable to get a reasonable extrusion of clean nylon. I have a 0.4 mm nozzle drill and applied that to the tip of the nozzle, carefully.
I found a burned on segment by this additional step and succeeding nylon cleanings went well and my nozzle is printing cleanly again.
If you don't have nylon, you can perform similar cleanings (called cold pulls) with ABS or PLA.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, anet-a8
--- |
thread-4508 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4508 | Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene | 2017-08-18T22:17:44.267 | # Question
Title: Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene
I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).
Some details about the print and process:
* I have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder
* I am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html
* I am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.
* Bed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.
* I've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.
* I've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.
* Other settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers.
The print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.
Does anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?
# Answer
> 1 votes
Try heating your enclosure to 50C, as well as adding a brim.
# Answer
> 2 votes
You should enable the "brim" functionality of your slicer. This adds additional perimeters to the first layer, expanding the base of the model. The larger surface area gives more adhesion.
# Answer
> 1 votes
One thing that seemed to help is making sure the heated bed was 100C. I was able to do this on my Prusa by turning off the front fan (for the whole print). If I have both the fan on and the heated bed at 100C I get the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error.
This produced a print that was better but still a bit warped.
---
Tags: filament, print-quality, warping, pp
--- |
thread-1103 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1103 | Wanhao Duplicator i3 ABS settings | 2016-05-04T16:34:55.610 | # Question
Title: Wanhao Duplicator i3 ABS settings
I am looking to others who have successfully printed in ABS using a Wanhao Duplicator i3.
I have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. I used 235 °C for the extruder and 100 °C for the bed. I am printing at 40 mm/s and 0.2 mm layer height.
If someone has ABS and PETG settings for this printer, your help would be appreciated.
# Answer
> 7 votes
I am an official Wanhao Distributor
By experience I can recommend you to print with this settings:
* Extruder 230 °C
* Heated Bed 65 °C
* Have a glass surface
* Use hairspray over the glass
* Continue to enclose the printer or at least put it where there is almost no wind
* Print at 45 mm/s
Note that this settings vary a lot depending on humidity and other factors related to where you are printing, so it would be very useful to know where in the globe are you experimenting.
Also note that humidity is very very bad for 3D Printing Filaments so keep them sealed while not using them.
Please do comment if you have any more doubts.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've had hit and miss success, but nothing I would consider great. I was using Hatchbox ABS with the extruder at 230 °C and the bed at 65 °C and a homemade enclosure.
One thing that did help was making sure the HVAC vents near the printer were closed.
---
Tags: filament, abs, warping, wanhao
--- |
thread-4553 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4553 | Heater cartridge connector for Original Prusa i3 MK2S | 2017-08-26T14:39:26.787 | # Question
Title: Heater cartridge connector for Original Prusa i3 MK2S
I am thinking about rewiring the extruder heater cartridge. What is the connector on the Rambo Mini? I'm thinking about putting a similar connector close to the extruder to make replacement easy. I tried looking through the schematic but could find the part number for the connector (I believe on page 4?).
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is referred to as a Terminal Block Connector. More specifically this is a 2-position pluggable terminal block connector commonly manufactured by Phoenix Contact and others.
Newark.com Sale Page: Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw
Larger Picture: 2-Position Terminal Block Connectors
---
Tags: prusa-i3, electronics, prusa-i3-rework, wire-type
--- |
thread-4432 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4432 | Which choices do we have on Daylight Resins? | 2017-07-28T09:23:58.777 | # Question
Title: Which choices do we have on Daylight Resins?
I'm planning to make an LCD Resin printer. I'm still learning and I found out that I need daylight resin (which hardens when white light comes from the LCD).
If I search for "Daylight resin" on Google, the only "useful" result I find is for Photocentric.
Photocentric sells Daylight resins and the prices seem to be good too; however, I'm trying to search for alternatives. I'm not interested in something cheaper, I'd like to choose a resin which has more colors. Photocentric's hard resin only comes in cream/green/gray colors. I would need at least white/black/transparent resin.
Is it the only option we have? Are there any other manufacturer out there which produces Daylight resin/LCD-hardening resin with a variety of colors?
# Answer
It looks like Ono may fit what you are looking for. They have several colors listed on their site.
Red Blue
Yellow Black
Clear Creamy White
They also have a flexible resin and a low temperature "casting" resin.
It is unclear if the resin is available now or if it is preorder.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Daylight resin choice is extremely limited. And would not get much better at-least in short term. Majority of new LCD based 3D printers are using UV LED.
Checkout Wanhao D7, Phrozen3d and other newly released 3D printers.
I strongly advice you to checkout Ionel Ciobanuc progress on his printer.
He starts by making the first LCD based 3D printer actually works! to modify his printer to make it another UV LCD 3D Printer.
From the progress it is very clear why everyone adding UV LED to their LCD 3D printers.
> 2 votes
# Answer
ONO, as mentioned previously. But I do believe that resin will be rather expensive. Along the lines of $15 per 100ml. Since their resin sales are geared towards their printer (small, resin based printer that uses your smart phone as the light source) they sell smaller portions, as their printer can't hold all that much. Not quite sure if you can order larger quantities at a discount directly from them. But at this stage, they are rather difficult to get ahold of via internet communication. That may change if and when they fulfill their KS commitments.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, sla
--- |
thread-4584 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4584 | prusa i3 not extruding enough plastic | 2017-09-05T05:39:28.723 | # Question
Title: prusa i3 not extruding enough plastic
I built my 3d printer from a kit a few weeks ago, and initially, it was working fine. However, when I took it with me to college, something must have went awry. The first layer comes out fine, but afterwards, the infill breaks apart. It extrudes the entire time, but there are gaps in it that make prints porous, unisitely, and brittle. The printer is a prussa i3 knockoff. I have included a gallery of a recent print attempt of mine. I hope you guys can help me diagnose the problem.
Gallery: https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRiJT.jpg
# Answer
> 2 votes
For your troubleshooting process, I would suggest to use a simple model, perhaps a small cylinder of 20-25 mm diameter, 5-6 mm height.
You've not indicated what material you are using, nor the extruder/nozzle temperatures, but the print appears to be suffering from low temperature problems. You would also include the slicer software name although I don't believe this matters.
The initial layer will print reasonably well, if your slicer performs a reduced speed layer one. The slower filament movement through the nozzle allows it time to heat up for an acceptable layer, while the faster later layers will prevent enough heat to be imparted to the filament.
Increase your temperature at least 10°C for the initial test, as your part is quite a bit below temperature, in my opinion. If the first test is not acceptable, increase by 5°C for each succeeding test.
Keep in mind that individual brands will have different optimum temperatures and within a specific brand, different colors will require temperature adjustment.
The "initially working fine" reference does not include information regarding filament change, color change or other useful information such as print speed, layer thickness, etc., but I'm aiming for a temperature adjustment as the most likely answer.
---
Tags: filament, prusa-i3, extruder
--- |
thread-4590 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4590 | Correct amount of force on piece of paper when leveling bed | 2017-09-06T08:25:23.983 | # Question
Title: Correct amount of force on piece of paper when leveling bed
I am having some problems with bed adhesion and curling of the edges. Also my printer causes a lot of stringing when creating the first layer. This can cause the print to let go of the bed and then it just drags around with the nozzle.
I have a Anet A8 and I tried multiple different amounts of force pressing down on the paper. However, what is the desired amount of force pushing down on the paper? Is it supposed to move freely, or is it supposed to be quite hard to move around under the nozzle?
I'm using basic filament from Gearbest: Gearbest Filament.
# Answer
Actual task in your case is to find correct nozzle height for the first layer, so the force for pulling out the paper is not important. It just has to be the same every time you make calibration. Because of the different force you apply, different paper thickness and other factors, found position can only be treated as 'relative'.
To complete the calibration you will have to make several test prints with different initial heights, starting from the lowest, adding 0.1-0.2mm (depending on the nozzle diameter) before you find the right value.
Please note that 1) initial layer height is not the only factor, affecting adhesion 2) some slicer programs may add not the same amount of height that you specify
> 3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, heated-bed, extrusion, adhesion
--- |
thread-4594 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4594 | What should I consider before buying a 3D printer? | 2017-09-07T13:53:14.260 | # Question
Title: What should I consider before buying a 3D printer?
I am currently looking to buy a 3D printer. I've done some research about which technologies and materials they use. I've seen some models seems good so far but my concern is 'Are they mechanically solid?'. I don't want it to become a scrap after some usage. Since there are a lot of enthusiasts here that use 3D printer regularly, I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands.
I am not buying it for hobby. I'll mostly use it to make cases for circuit boards.
# Answer
Not surprisingly, your question is a difficult one to pin down in a precise manner. I'm going to pull one line from your post as the focus for my answer.
> I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands
I would suggest that you isolate a few models (or more) that hold your interest. A good example of a popular, quality printer is the Prusa i3 MK2s, although some would consider it to be expensive. It's available in kit form, as well as fully assembled, another topic entirely.
Find the forums specific to the printer models you've selected and read as many posts as you can. Look for user postings describing problems and suggested solutions. Look for user postings describing modifications which implies a problem that had to be solved by the user or community before the printer performed satisfactorily.
I've assisted in the building of a Prusa i3 MK2s recently and am currently assisting in a home-spun design based on a number of other generic printers. The owner of this model is incorporating as many modifications as he can find. That tells me that this model, although not yet completed, is likely to be a handful to tune and operate to his/my satisfaction.
On the flip side, everything I've read about the Prusa told me that for the public library for which it was destined, it would be the lowest level of trouble for any model I researched. I was asked to make a recommendation and performed the suggested research via all the forums I could find.
The above sounds like a direct recommendation, and it could be, but you have not provided too many specifics. The Prusa i3 MK2s (genuine, not clone) would likely print well for your circuit board cases, but there certainly would be other models to do the same job well enough.
Watch out for print bed size, based on your board size requirements. Heated beds usually mean more money, but greater variety of materials can be used as a result.
If you plan to limit your use specifically to circuit board cases, you may not have to be concerned about "expandability" from a feature standpoint. Single extruder models are fine for almost all 3D printing, but it's handy sometimes to have dual nozzle capacity. That's another plus for the Prusa i3 MK2s with an add-on kit, but not a big deal for case building, I think.
Look in the various forums that provide general support for 3D printing (such as this one) for other posts from people who use Brand X 3D printer and have had a problem with, for example, bed adhesion, filament quality, layer shifts, nozzle clogging, just about anything.
As with many things, high quality usually means higher price. The library Prusa has been zero problems for me to support on a volunteer basis, hence my recommendation. The makerspace also enjoyed the building process by buying the kit, saving US$200 in the process and learning more about the printer.
Keep an eye out for users who have experienced broken components or typically troublesome components. You would not want to buy a printer model that ships with a junky hot-end assembly if the suggested modification is to upgrade to an E3D V6 to make it work properly. A user who posts about a continuing belt breakage (rare!) could have a user-induced problem or a printer design problem, which means you'll want to cull out some of the information you see.
Good luck, it's a tough decision, to be sure.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, desktop-printer, hardware
--- |
thread-4593 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4593 | how to level kossel's endstops? | 2017-09-07T07:21:49.740 | # Question
Title: how to level kossel's endstops?
My printer is kossel (delta 3d printer).
I have a probe far away from the nozzle (offset -x45 y17),every time I run G29, the result is unacceptable, the z distance between points is over 0.5mm, it's not because of the probe's accuracy, I test repeatedly the result is the same.
I cost much time level the bed, finally I realize maybe it's because not only my bed, but also my z max endstops are not horizontal.
My question is
1. how to level the z endstops? (now I think both bed and z endstops are not horizontal)
2. is my analyzation correct? any other possible?
# Answer
First, you should make sure that printing surface is adjusted correctly: it must be perpendicular to all three delta columns, all other adjustable parts must be checked and adjusted if necessary (depending on actual printer design).
Assuming that upper end-stops can be adjusted as well.
* Home effector with G28 command, then move it close to one column (some versions of Marlin have these commands hardcoded in the menu)
* Move Z-axis slowly until the nozzle touches the bed
* Record Z position
* Repeat above steps for two remaining columns
* Then adjust end stops: if you need to raise nozzle (it touches the bed too early), then you move endstop up. If nozzle is too high (it reaches Z0 and still toes not touch the bed), then move endstop down. Move endstops very gently because sometimes it it can be a matter of a fraction of millimeter.
* After endstops calibration is done, verify that nozzle is properly calibrated at the center of the bed. Or run G29 if you like.
This procedure should make your endstops properly adjusted relative to the printing bed.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: kossel, endstop
--- |
thread-4597 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4597 | Anet A8 - hot end temperature still same | 2017-09-07T19:45:51.667 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 - hot end temperature still same
I've recently purchased Anet A8. First print went well, but now, the hot end temperature stays at ~230 °C. When I touch it, it is still cold. I tried the thermistor, and it correctly changes resistance when I blow on it (from 100 kΩ to ~70 kΩ). The voltage in connector is about 300 mV.
Does anybody know what could be wrong?
# Answer
> 2 votes
In my case, I had a bad resistor on my board. R41 had only 2.2 kΩ instead of 4.7. I replaced it and everything works now.
---
Tags: printer-building, hotend, anet-a8
--- |
thread-4560 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4560 | What is a good book to read about 3D printer settings? | 2017-08-28T05:48:10.143 | # Question
Title: What is a good book to read about 3D printer settings?
I've google searched many forums, blogs, and articles about 3D printer settings. There is a lot of guess work. Most of the materials are of amateur technical quality lacking the keen and systematic insight of an expert. Usually books are high in quality and written by experts.
I have built a 3D printer and would like to maximize my print quality. Are there any good books that have an in-dept analysis of printer settings?
# Answer
> 3 votes
There may be books out there, but purchasing a book isn't in your best interest. The reason so much of the information seems to be from amateurs is because every 3d printer is different.
To find the correct settings for your printer you need to calibrate it based on the material, slicer software, hardware, and firmware. Your best option to find a good starting point is to check the manufacturer's website and look for a forum.
Even using the same printer and material as someone else has the potential to yield different results.
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-4605 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4605 | Extruder keeps jamming because of filament dust! | 2017-09-11T09:18:46.893 | # Question
Title: Extruder keeps jamming because of filament dust!
Yesterday evening i have been trying to print a few upgrades but after coming home after an hour, it is printing in the air because there is to much filament dust inside the extruder. Is this because the filament that is being extruded is getting to soft so the gear grinds parts off? I never had this problem before.
Printer:
Anet A8.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I'm highly unconvinced that dust in the gearing is related to your problem. If the material is still being extruded, then "in the air" suggests the base layers may have slipped, or your belts are slipping, either of which will lead to a huge lateral offset, and thus the "printing in air" problem. It's possible but less likely that the extruder feed gear itself is slipping.
If you can post a picture of one of these situations, that would help a lot.
I will mention in passing that there are several models for filament guides at thingiverse.com . Putting one of these on your machine will eliminate scraping and the resultant dust.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Pictures would help, but I believe that the "dust" is not the cause of your issue, but another symptom. When the filament doesn't advance as fast as the job requires (for whatever reason), the drive mechanism erodes the filament as it attempts to drive it along.
Give us some basics: has your machine worked well with these settings on prints before? What is your material, temperature, print speed and nozzle diameter?
---
Tags: extruder
--- |
thread-4570 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4570 | How to set up USB camera for Octoprint on Debian system | 2017-08-30T16:50:38.557 | # Question
Title: How to set up USB camera for Octoprint on Debian system
I installed OctoPrint on my nettop (Foxconn NT-330) to control custom-built Delta printer. I also have generic USB endoscope-type camera attached to the nettop.
Basic setup went well, printer is visible and controllable by OctoPrint server. USB camera is visible via usb-list and mplayer can output live video.
The problem is that on the OctoPrint Webcam configuration tab it requires "Stream URL" which I don't know where to get from.
# Answer
> 4 votes
You need to install a web-cam server on your Nettop. Octorint recommends Yawcam for windows and mjpg-streamer for linux.
mjpg-streamer: https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer Yawcam: http://www.yawcam.com/
OctoPrint has instructions for installing mjpg-streamer on a raspberry pi. The process should be very similar for a Nettop running Debian so its a good starting place. The instructions are a little ways down the page: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian
---
Tags: octoprint, usb
--- |
thread-4615 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4615 | How can I make this model? | 2017-09-12T16:15:10.160 | # Question
Title: How can I make this model?
Here's the model I'm trying to print, Truncated Icosahedron
But it must be 12" in diameter and gray in color `rgb = #444444`
I also want two of the hexagons to be yellow in color: `rgb = #FFFF00`
Similar to this photo:
How to do this? I don't seem to be able to edit the shape on shapeways.
---
### UPDATE
Got it.
skeleton bucky ball
# Answer
Without any restrictions to your methodology, your objective is easily accomplished. Thingiverse has a truncated icosahedron model available for download and printing.
Because the creator has included in the download the OpenSCAD source files, you could edit it to meet your bed limitations. I've downloaded the source, opened it and found the model is a single hexagon, until you change a parameter from 6 to 5 to get a pentagon. I suspect the assembly is up to the builder to figure out.
It appears that the default is for a 50 mm diameter sphere. Change the 50 in the code to 300 or so to reach your 12" desired diameter.
An alternative to friction welding would be just about any decent epoxy or even a 3D printing pen such as the 3Doodler.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models
--- |
thread-4619 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4619 | 3d printer not printing circles correctly | 2017-09-13T15:08:12.017 | # Question
Title: 3d printer not printing circles correctly
I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor advise if anyone know the solution.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Possible causes for the printer not printing correct dimensions:
* Incorrect number of steps/mm in firmware settings
* Belts are not tight enough
* Pulley slips on the shaft
Looking at the picture, I would go for the first case, because distortion looks regular. Try checking microstep settings on your board, and settings in the firmware.
# Answer
> 1 votes
This could be because your belts are either old or not tight enough. Try adjust or replacing the belts and try again.
---
Tags: print-quality, marlin, desktop-printer, diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-4623 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4623 | Tevo Tarantula extruder motor clinking sounds | 2017-09-14T11:07:47.853 | # Question
Title: Tevo Tarantula extruder motor clinking sounds
The extruder motor makes these clinking sounds. I read about that and I tried to adjust it with its potentiometer, I tried reassembling the clamps, reinserted the leading tube in both ends, cutting them in a 90° angle but nothing helps.
It seems that if I have a print of 0.1 mm layer thickness, the nozzle does not put out enough filament and it gets clogged up in the leading metal tube to the nozzle.
On the `extruder` side it looks like the clogging up gets the motor the sort of *skip* the push of the filament.
This is my G-code.
What is going wrong here?? How can I setup these params to work together smoothly?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I'd advise against adjusting the driver's potentiometer without also taking a voltage reading and doing the math to find out what current is being driven through the stepper. Having the current too high can damage your driver or stepper. But having the current too low can cause that clicking as the stepper internally skips.
The filament may also be too cold, and is providing too much resistance to being forced out the extrusion nozzle.
Or the filament may be getting stuck in the area just above the heating element in your hotend. This is called heat creep, and can cause jams. Based on your description it looks like this is happening to your hotend.
Or your nozzle may be clogged with dust and contaminants. Check the diameter spec for your hotend and look up an appropriate cleaning method (for ABS you can soak in acetone, for PLA there are tiny drill bits to clear out debris).
Or you may be trying to print too fast. Lowering the print speed means plastic is extruded slower and there's less pressure built up in the hotend. I would check on the other options before adjusting print speed, because it can fix the symptoms but may not be the root cause.
---
Tags: extruder, tevo-tarantula
--- |
thread-4630 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4630 | 3d Extruder temperature lower automatically (Prusi I3) | 2017-09-15T23:41:01.380 | # Question
Title: 3d Extruder temperature lower automatically (Prusi I3)
when I command to start print from SD card; extruder temperature raise slowly and print start but with in 4-5 minutes suddenly Extruder temperature lower automatically.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Please consider to reference your precise model (genuine Prusa i3 or clone?) as well as the slicer software you are using.
You should be able to note from the panel information what layer the change appears. For example, if you are printing 0.200 mm layer thickness and the temperature change begins at 10.200 height, you have an important piece of information.
Open your gcode file in a text editor and look for the Z reference in the 10.000 or 10.200 range, along with the temperature gcode command. According to the reprap wiki,, the gcode command to set extruder temperature is M104 followed by Sxxx where xxx = temperature in °C. For example, you should see something like this near the beginning of the gcode
M104 S205; set extruder temperature to 205°C (comments mine, some slicers also include comments)
but if your gcode is faulty, later in the body of the gcode you may see a similar command:
M104 S000;
the number after the S could be anything. Consider to examine any M10x codes as there are different results for various codes.
If you find you have a dropped extruder temperature due to the gcode, double check your slicer settings to see if a second process has been initiated.
I have a dual extruder printer and will usually keep the second extruder cold until just a few layers prior to printing supports at a level above the bed, then turn it on to do the supports, then back off for the rest of the print.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, extruder, hotend
--- |
thread-4633 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4633 | First print origin | 2017-09-17T21:31:32.960 | # Question
Title: First print origin
Slicer set up for print asks bed size. This is easy: 200mm x 200mm But what is the origin. If I leave it at 0,0 the it tries to start printing at 200mm, off the bed. Does the origin establish where the print starts, in centred, or something else. Should I set origin as 100,100 or -100,-100 or something else. Thanks
# Answer
It could be useful to know what model of printer you are using. It would be useful to know what firmware you are using.
The origin is established in the firmware, if you are working with a printer you built yourself or constructed from a kit and had to flash the firmware.
There is a related post to this forum which covers changing the origin by 10 mm, but the information contained within is useful for your reference.
Effectively, you will want to ensure that the settings in the firmware match your specific printer configuration. The information I've been able to collect suggest that your max x and y position be placed in the firmware.
Not knowing your printer makes a certain answer more difficult. If your endstops are at the maximum travel limits, the above answer is valid. If your endstops are at the origin, there is something else amiss.
Please consider to edit your question to include endstop location and printer model number. Firmware and controller information is also useful.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: slic3r
--- |
thread-4556 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4556 | Layman term explanation of the difference between voxel and point cloud | 2017-08-27T10:16:41.047 | # Question
Title: Layman term explanation of the difference between voxel and point cloud
can anyone explain in the simplest terms please what is the difference between a point cloud and a voxel mesh?
# Answer
> 3 votes
A point cloud is often derived by sampling. Each point represents an observation. Sometimes, a point cloud is turned into a surface by fitting triangles to the points in the form of an STL file.
A raster is a 2D grid of pixels. It divides the area of an image into constant-sized little squares. Each of these squares has a value.
A 3D raster is made of voxels. It divides 3-space into constant-sized little cubes. Each of these cubes has a value.
Pixels and voxels are rendering techniques. A point cloud is a sampling technique.
The Wikipedia article, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel, is helpful.
In a real system the pixels may not be square or the voxels not strictly cubic, but in every system I've worked with, they do form a regular tiling of the plane for pixels, and fill 3d space for voxels.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I believe a point cloud is just a collection of points, while voxels - "3D pixels" - define location and a cube area. They seem to be pretty equivalent mathematically.
---
Tags: file-formats, scanning
--- |
thread-215 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/215 | How can I best clean the print bed after a print? | 2016-01-13T20:59:21.280 | # Question
Title: How can I best clean the print bed after a print?
I've occasionally had issues with excess filament residue getting stuck to the print bed. There are ways to prevent this, but sometimes even these precautions aren't enough. Over time, residue can build up. I've observed this in some printers, though not others.
Are there any techniques to best clean print beds? In the past, I've used various typical cleaning supplies, with different degrees of success. However, I don't know if this will lead to damage to the printer over time.
The printer I'm using has a glass print bed, which I occasionally partially cover with blue painter's tape during printing.
# Answer
* If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it. Simply pour some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first).
* Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to remove.
* If you are using tape on the bed, you could remove the tape to remove the plastic stuck to the tape.
> 11 votes
# Answer
My usual solution for cleaning the glass bed on my printer is a glass scraper (basically just a razor blade with a handle on it):
Regardless of what kind of filament (abs/pla/nylon) or surface treatment (glue/painters tape/abs slurry) I've used the glass scraper always takes it right off, and with the style I posted a picture of the blade is flexible and thin enough it's also useful for peeling up the edge of prints that are stuck to the bed.
> 9 votes
# Answer
When I print PLA on glass plate, I clean the glass with cold water and dishwashing liquid. Cold water! And no wipe! Cold water should take all dishwashing liquid "to the ground". Now you have glass as clean as possible. Now the filament sticks to the glass far better than when glass is not clean.
But of course it doesn't fix problem of cleaning HB after print. To reduce this problem I use glue stick (paper glue). I don't know if it's common but I do like this technique.
So having clean glass I spread (grease) some glue stick. It doesn't really matter if HB is cold or hot. This gives me a VERY strong adhesive force between the extruded filament and the glass. It's so strong that there is almost no way to detache it by hand. I use a paper knife.
Now you still have thin layer of glue and you can print again / add another layer of glue (but not more than 2..3 times) or wash it with hot water. After few times it's good to clean it again with dishwashing liquid and cold water.
This technique is amazing.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I use hair spray directly on my glass bed , then just a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a small piece of paper towel to clean it...that removes all surface materials... I don't use tape any more... Russ
> 3 votes
# Answer
I have a glass bed and I use plastic razor blades from Scraperite specifically black blade to clean it up. Looks like it's the best alternative to metal blade so far.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I use a razor blade scraper to get stuff off that is sticking. Priory to printing I heat and level the build plate, then wipe it down with alcohol to get any greasey fingerprints off of it.
My Scraper
> 1 votes
---
Tags: maintenance
--- |
thread-3826 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3826 | Delta 3D printer extruder? | 2017-04-04T16:42:23.250 | # Question
Title: Delta 3D printer extruder?
I've never gotten a 3D printer, nor do I know very much about them, but I'm thinking of buying a delta 3D printer kit for around $450. When I looked online of some disadvantages of Delta printers I found that they typically don't have Bowden extruders. I'm wondering what are the advantages of a Bowden extruder and should I spend more money in a 3D printer just to get one.
# Answer
> 4 votes
My FLSUN Kossel 3D Delta printer ($224) has a bowden extruder. It works really well too.
The main advantage of having one is that it reduces the mass of the hot end. That means less inertia, and it's easier on the driver motors as well. All this leads to (hopefully) greater and more precise control at the extruder tip, and, best of all, faster printing.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The only advantage of Bowden extruder is a reduced mass of moving parts attached to the effector.
All other differences from direct extruder are to the Bowden's disadvantages. Generally speaking, Bowden-type extruder has much worse control of filament extrusion than direct one.
Since most of the modern consumer-grade printers suffer from low rigidity, reducing mass seems as a good trade-off to the printers' manufacturers.
Unfortunately, for the Delta printers trading speed for quality may not be so effective. Delta construction is used with the only goal to achieve highest possible speed of printing. As a contrary, Bowden extruder becomes less precise with the speed increase. This makes it unreasonable to increase print speed at some point when printing quality degrades below acceptable.
As a result, at this moment of time, Delta printers with Bowden extruder is a clear sign of under-performing device.
To answer your question: there is no reason to pay extra for the Delta printer with Bowden extruder, although I doubt that a printer with similar characteristics and a direct extruder would be cheaper.
---
Tags: extruder, delta
--- |
thread-4225 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4225 | Lack of isolation between axes | 2017-06-13T08:11:08.787 | # Question
Title: Lack of isolation between axes
Sometimes I notice that if I manually command a single axis movement (typically Z, when I want better access to the extruder), I observe that several channels move together (and they maybe move slower than I expect). After one 'coupled' movement, subsequent commands have the result I'm expecting.
What happens is as well as the Z-axis moving up, the bed moves forward, and the extruder moves to the right. I have no auto-leveling or anything else non-standard on this printer (dual Z steppers, X, Y, extruder, bed, extruder heat).
It even happens if I simply extrude some of the time (e.g. changing filament after warming up, retract gave me some X movement)
Printer is an ANET-A8, I'm using mainly OctoPrint, but I think I've also observed this with other PC software manual controls.
It doesn't happen often enough for me to have identified any pattern - maybe it only happens if I've not homed first after turning the printer on, but I suspect not.
It's not so much of a problem, as just a question for interest. Also not sure how to tag.
# Answer
> 1 votes
My best guess based on the answers and comments so far is that there is a minor firmware bug and some poorly initialised state. This occurs at start-up, or after a print has finished, but only once (till presumably the idle state is reached again).
See the image below, captured after the power went off during a print. Heated the extruder, and did Z -10, got this. Both x and Y moved, but in about a 10:1 ratio. The length of the track is about 10mm. Interestingly, during this movement, there was no Z movement.
# Answer
> 2 votes
This is easily explained - it's the stepper motors getting powered up. Stepper motors even if not moving are constantly powered up and actively hold the position they are in exactly at the stepping point where they are.
If you power down the machine or if the board disables the stepper drivers to save energy or because the power is offline then the stepper motors can get in between steps. When powering on then the movement is quite noticeable on some cheaper motors where the inrushing current can kick the motor over multiple steps before it locks down into position.
You can test this, try to move one of the axis manually by hand (not too fast to not damage the board by providing it too much current) if the printer is powered of it does move pretty easily. Then power the printer on, it should still move pretty easily by hand. Now execute one move command on the axis via the printer board. Afterwards you should not be able to move the axis by hand anymore (or at least not without unnecessarily excessive force).
# Answer
> 2 votes
I don't know details of your printer, the motor drivers, the firmware, or the wiring harness. I only have looked photos at the ANET-A8.
Your question has ruled out a complex-axis movement caused by auto-leveling.
Printers that are not based on simple cartesian actuators, such as delta or core-xy machines use multiple actuators to make what results in a simple, single axis head movement. Your printer is not based on one of these mechanisms, but if the printer were temporarily misconfigured, it may move unexpectedly.
On the hardware side, some stepper drivers work with "step" and "direction" inputs. If there is a problem with signal integrity on these signals as referenced to the stepper driver's ground, you may be introducing an unintended step pulse. Stepper drivers typically use pulse-width-modulation (PWM) to set the power through each of the two motor windings (coils), and generate noise that depends on too many factors to list. Check that you have a direct ground wire from the stepper drivers to the controller board. If the drivers are integral with the controller board, one would hope the PCB was well designed.
It is possible the motion is caused by some force causing unpowered stepper motors to move, although most unpowered motors will still have a bit of detent torque resisting motion. This would require that Z-axis movement was causing some force on the other axes. For the ANET-A8, the filament could apply side-to-side force to the extruder when moved up or down, but it is difficult to see how it could cause front-to-back movement of the bed.
Your code may allow you to set the idle motor current as well as the active current. If so, you could try setting the idle current at, say, 80% of the idle current. Your motors will be hotter when idle, but should not overheat.
---
Tags: software
--- |
thread-4637 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4637 | Delta printer distortion | 2017-09-18T17:57:17.290 | # Question
Title: Delta printer distortion
I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40.80). I expect that W and S will be 40mm. How can fix this problem?
**Update:**
Here is the stl I use: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0
**Update:** I have replaced the steper motor in tower B but same result.
# Answer
I bet your towers are not standing straight (vertical) or your bed is not clearly horizontal
I've recreated your picture with some assumptions (for example that your SW calculates properly and your steppers and motors act well).
Take a look here:
If you deliver your printer dimensions
* tower height (from the base)
* tower distance from the center
* bed distance (height) from the base
I can calculate what the inclination angle on all towers is, but, I suppose it's not really important.
The important thing is to set them straight/vertical (perpendicular to the bed).
We can see from the picture that tower A is the most inclined to the center or the bed highest point is next to tower A (and I bet one of those or both cause the issue).
As an example, I've made some calculations based on imagined assuptions of the tower height here are details:
```
towerH | inclination
-----------+----------------
300 mm | 0.11°
400 mm | 0.08°
500 mm | 0.06°
```
It seems to be quite small but in fact your differences in dimensions are also small!
The inclination of tower B is bigger as there is bigger difference in dimensions, so maybe the issue is more in bed "horizontality".
It would be good if you would check and measure these parameters.
As for the explanation why bed the inclination causes dimension distortion:
This is exaggerated but it's just to show the issue.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Well, you have two main issues:
**1.-** Your calculation for stepping is a little wrong, for example your firmware indicates 2315.84 when you need 2321.70 (REMEMBER this is an example and is not accurate), So you will see a diference about 2.0mm along your printing. If your printing is bigger more diference you will get.
**2.-** Misalignment, your printer is not angled correctly to 90° and also Z axe if has the same condition. with this uncalibrated parameter are you going to have pisa towers on every tall part. For delta Printers this not apply
**3.-** Tension. Your belts are a little weak; avoid weak tension band to eliminate something called backslash, of course this is for screw parts but is the same efect and even bigger. Also you will get an accurate dimension of the parts.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality, calibration, delta, repetier
--- |
thread-4666 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4666 | Printed 2 Sided Object? | 2017-09-28T21:44:19.737 | # Question
Title: Printed 2 Sided Object?
Apologies, I'm a EE designer and software guy. We've been CNC'ing prototypes, and my office just bought a very cheap 3D printer.
I'm using Cura as recomended, and wanted to print a piece that has features on both sides.
Here is a screenshot of each side.
So if you laid one side flat, you see how there is a subtractive portion underneath it?
Is there a way to 3D print an object like this, and keep the details on each side?
**UPDATE** I copied some Cura settings from guys and basically tipped this thing to a 45 degree. Here are the results. Pretty good! The finish has some zits and pops, but the surface details are quite accurate enough to fit a PCB board in there with confidence.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I haven't tried printing anything like that, but one trick is to print the piece at an angle of 45°, so as to minimise the number of surfaces that are horizontal (or near horizontal.) You will still need some supports, but far less than if you just plonked it flat on the build plate. My only other recommendation would be to use a slicer that allows you to define custom supports, such as Simplify 3D or CraftWare (but still print the piece at an angle).
You might even be able to print it on a raft/brim with no supports. I've seen other 3D'ers pull this off.
# Answer
> 3 votes
You can print it laying flat on the bed with supports. It will be very laborious to clean up, but it will probably work. supports usually are thin enough to strip away, but they leave marks which you need to cut off to get a clean result.
You can also buy a printer with dual extruders and then use dissolvable supports. That would probably be easier to clean up and provide a cleaner result.
If you're using PLA to print, you might get away with turning up the part cooling fan to the maximum level and hope for the best. Overhangs are very much prone to dropping though. I'm not sure if a stock MP Select mini will get the job done. You might want to consider an upgrade to the part cooling fan. You can look for fan duct related upgrades which allow you to mount bigger fans on Thingiverse
With PETG you can possibly get away with longer overhangs, as it cools quicker. However, PETG is much harder to print well, as it's much more prone to stringing, which can cause issues like artifacts and clogging.
All in all I'd start out with getting a good benchy before you start on engineering projects. This will make sure that you have your printer calibrated to perform for your chosen filament. Every brand and type has their own quirks and differences, so you'll have to fine tune your settings to get the best result.
A CNC-like finish will not be easy to achieve. A CNC type finish will be unachievable without extensive post processing if you're using supports. In any case, getting a good finish requires some practice with finding the right settings for your filament.
Learn how to print and to get your printer dialled in to achieve the required result, which, in the case of it having to be CNC-like, is quite high-end. The fact you're laying down filament means that you'll be able to see lines, even at top quality. Maybe this guide will help you get on your way.
Getting a $1000 printer mainly inproves reliability of the print. The quality of the print is in the skill of dialling in the right settings in your slicer for a given filament choice, plus recognising the type of supports necessary. This takes practice to achieve.
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-4644 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4644 | How can I see what errors Slic3r have repaird? | 2017-09-22T08:38:02.017 | # Question
Title: How can I see what errors Slic3r have repaird?
I have an STL-file that Slic3r thinks has errors. They are not visible in the 3D view. I have had them anazlyzed in both Blender and netfabb. Both of these programs say that the model is good. I don't want to leave this to chance. Since I sell STL-files I need the STL-file perfect.
Is there any way I can find out what the problem is. I encounter this from time to time. Often I can go back into blender and find the error by analyzing the mesh. But not always. It would be very helpful to have slic3r tell me what it repaired.
# Answer
Slic3r uses ADMesh internally to validate and fix mesh. You could try to use ADMesh directly to see a limited information about what was changed. Note that Slic3r bundles it's own copy of ADMesh and depending on your Slic3r version and edition, the behavior of it's ADMesh might slightly differ from the standalone one. (For example Slic3r Prusa Editon patches it's own ADMesh very heavily.)
# Using ADMesh CLI:
```
$ admesh cube_bad.stl
ADMesh version 0.98.2, Copyright (C) 1995, 1996 Anthony D. Martin
ADMesh comes with NO WARRANTY. This is free software, and you are welcome to
redistribute it under certain conditions. See the file COPYING for details.
Opening cube_bad.stl
Checking exact...
Checking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000000 Iteration=1 of 2... Fixed 0 edges.
Checking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000173 Iteration=2 of 2... Fixed 0 edges.
Removing unconnected facets...
Filling holes...
Checking normal directions...
Checking normal values...
Calculating volume...
Verifying neighbors...
================= Results produced by ADMesh version 0.98.2 ================
Input file : cube_bad.stl
File type : ASCII STL file
Header : solid cube (repaired)
============== Size ==============
Min X = 0.000000, Max X = 1.000000
Min Y = 0.000000, Max Y = 1.000000
Min Z = 0.000000, Max Z = 1.000000
========= Facet Status ========== Original ============ Final ====
Number of facets : 12 12
Facets with 1 disconnected edge : 3 0
Facets with 2 disconnected edges : 0 0
Facets with 3 disconnected edges : 1 0
Total disconnected facets : 4 0
=== Processing Statistics === ===== Other Statistics =====
Number of parts : 1 Volume : 1.000000
Degenerate facets : 0
Edges fixed : 0
Facets removed : 1
Facets added : 1
Facets reversed : 2
Backwards edges : 0
Normals fixed : 2
```
The statistics should give you some idea about what happened.
# Using ADMeshGUI:
Find ADMeshGUI at github.com/admesh/ADMeshGUI.
Open the file and click the **REPAIR** button in bottom right. See the changes.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, slic3r
--- |
thread-1553 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1553 | Marlin temperature sensor problem | 2016-07-24T14:14:27.093 | # Question
Title: Marlin temperature sensor problem
I have a RAMPS 1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560. The problem is with 100k NTC thermistor. I've tested it with a multimeter, it results in ~122kΩ.
I am using Marlin 1.0.2 (latest stable). I am using an MK8 extruder and do not receive temperature readings from the thermo-sensor - no matter how I connect it. However, on APrinter firmware it works flawlessly.
In *configuration.h*, I have tried most of the options, but found "1" is the best one for me.
Executing `m105` on Marlin, I get following result:
```
ok T:0.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 T0:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0
```
On APrinter, the result is different:
```
ok B:-inf /nan T:25.2076 /nan
```
I have not connected bed thermistor yet.
*pins.h*
```
#define TEMP_0_PIN 1 // Extruder / Analog pin numbering
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 0 // Bed / Analog pin numbering
```
*configuration.h*
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
...
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB
```
After switching back and forth from Marlin to APrinter and back, Marlin stopped woking completely. I had configured the LCD (ReprapDiscount Smart Controller) and all the steppers were working. Right now, it does not even sends self test to Pronterface upon start/connection, or it hangs according to the log.
*Pronterface output*
```
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin1.0.2
echo: Last Updated: Jul 25 2016 17:12:39 | Author: (Rustam Rahimgulov, default config)
Compiled: Jul 25 2016
echo: Free Memory: 3971 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z4000.00 E836.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z2.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S300.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
start
echo:Marlin1.0.2
ec (nothing more here, output just ends)
```
# Answer
> 1 votes
In the actual Marlin Firmware all supported printer boards are listed within the file "boards.h". This file contains the following entries for the RAMPS 1.4:
```
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB 33 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB 34 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFF 35 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEF 36 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)
```
The most common version may be the variant . In this case you have to set the value as the following lines show.
```
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB
#endif
```
Enable Display
```
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
```
Ok, it's time to make the adjustments specific to your 3d printer. You might first check the setting for the amount of extruders at around line 58. Most 3d printer rookies may start with one extruder, so the default entry of '1' is quite sufficient.
// This defines the number of extruders
```
#define EXTRUDERS 1
```
At around line 70 you have to set up the thermistors connected to the RAMPS for the extruder and the heatbed. Depending on your hardware configuration you have to change the last value in the defines.
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
```
The define for TEMP\_SENSOR\_0 determins which thermistor type is assembled at the hotend of extruder 1. This termistor has to be connected to the first sensor input (see also wiring schema). The thermistor for the heatbed has to be connected to the second sensor input. The thermistor type is configured with the define line of 'TEMP\_SENSOR\_BED'. If you use a thermistor of the type EPCOS B57560G104F (100K, Beta = 4036), you write the value '1' into the matching define. In case you have a thermistor with 100k and Beta = 3950, you have to set the value '60' in the corresponding define. So the defines will look e.g.:
For EPCOS (Beta = 4036) on hotend and heatbed:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
```
For Beta = 3950 on hotend and heatbed:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 60
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 60
```
---
Tags: marlin, reprap, thermistor
--- |
thread-4681 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4681 | Make a nose cone in Fusion 360 | 2017-10-01T01:36:14.353 | # Question
Title: Make a nose cone in Fusion 360
I am new to Fusion 360 and I think I'm going straight to something complicated. Is there a way to make a nose cone for a model rocket? What tools would one you to accomplish this?
# Answer
> 4 votes
If you have a specific shape in mind and can create a sketch to represent that shape, you are halfway to your goal.
The concept is simple. Create a single line sketch that would represent the desired curve, starting from, in this example, the nose of the cone and traveling to the base. Create only one-half of the nose cone curve and maintain a "standard" axis reference, say, using the Y-axis as the rotation point.
The process is called revolve. Fusion 360 supports this action directly.
```
In the Sculpt workspace, choose Create Revolve.
Select the profile to revolve.
In the Revolve dialog:
Click Axis and then select the axis to revolve around.
Choose Full or Angle to specify whether the revolution is full or to a specific angle.
For Direction choose One Side, Two Side or Symmetrical.
For Symmetry, choose None or Circular.
```
The above text is taken directly from the link. The specific web site also includes a Flash video of the steps involved.
If thickness is required for your creation, consider to draw the sketch from the nose to the base, then use Offset or hand sketch in a parallel line that returns to the nose. Ensure the base segment is joined and that the nose segments are open and are aligned to the Y-axis.
As the sketch is revolved, the nose sections will "close" while the base creates the closure necessary to make a solid that is hollow within and open at the bottom.
Use The Google or your preferred search engine with the terms "Fusion 360 Revolve" to find many tutorials and videos with the same information presented in various ways.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Try model8ng the rocket into the workspace, and then you can extruder a nose cone from the top using a 30 degree angle
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-4188 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4188 | How to carve a hollow cylinder along the curved surface in Fusion 360 | 2017-06-04T01:46:48.983 | # Question
Title: How to carve a hollow cylinder along the curved surface in Fusion 360
Let me start with a disclaimer: I'm new to 3D design, to design in general and specifically brand new to Fusion 360. This is my first project.
I started by creating a hollow cylinder, with the one end open and the other end closed. For example a hollow cylinder with the bottom closed and the top open.
I was able to create such hollow cylinder using the cylinder and shell tools.
Now, I wish to carve / engrave a pattern on the shell. I may want this carving to go all the way through the shell (practically making a hole the shape of my pattern); or,I may just want to engrave on part of the shell, but not cut all the way though.
My pattern is a sound wave. I have a 2D black and white image of this sound wave. I may want to carve it onto the curved shell, so that it curves around the cylinder.
I hope my description is clear. Another way to describe what I'm looking for, is to imagine cutting the sound wave pattern though a 2D rectangle, and then curl this rectangle along its width into a cylinder.
How can I do something like that?
# Answer
If you want it to be engraved, then sketch out the sound wave on the center plane. When you go to extrude, click "extrude from", and then click "from object". Click on the plane you want to extrude from, and then 2xtrude however for you would like to. Another way to do this would be to project the sketch onto the surface, and then extrude the projection.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
--- |
thread-4694 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4694 | MOSFET problems! | 2017-10-03T15:26:56.933 | # Question
Title: MOSFET problems!
I ordered a MOSFET module on eBay for my 3D printer and I did not get the one in the picture but I got this:
If there is any way I could use this on my Anet A8 could someone tell me how, as it only has one input connector, DC in, and 12 V out.
# Answer
> 5 votes
No, this module is completely useless for your intended purpose.
The load side is marked with "5A 5-220VDC". This means it can only switch up to 5A, maximum. The heated bed draws more than twice this current.
---
Tags: heated-bed, diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-3683 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3683 | Lines of PLA not sticking to the bed | 2017-03-05T20:45:52.083 | # Question
Title: Lines of PLA not sticking to the bed
When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft. I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment.
# Answer
You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body.
From there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. That said. I take a piece of paper and calibrate it so there just a little, but not too much, friction.
Make sure you are printing at 30% speed for first layer.
Last use a glue stick.
> 4 votes
# Answer
Do things in this order
1) Make sure your bed surface is appropriate. (PET tape, or elmers glue on glass. must be applied every 3 to 4 prints in used area)
2)Make sure extruder temperature is not too low or too high. Generally I'll start at the minimum recommended manufacturer's range for your specific filament + 5 degrees. Then bed temp around 55c to 60c.
3) Your bed calibration might be off. Bed calibration should be performed at standard operating temperatures. I.e. turn everything on as if you are about to print and wait to heat up and then make sure your nozzle is almost touching your bed surface (however not actually touching. Alternatively you can use a normal sheet of paper and test that way.
> 2 votes
# Answer
1. Too far from the surface for the first layer. Filament doesn't look flat enough
2. Possible slight under-extrusion (should be verified after fixing first issue)
> 1 votes
# Answer
In contrast to the other suggestions here, I would like you to try to **slightly increase** the distance from the bed.
The logic here is that the "thin walls" you are seeing during the first layer is is due to excessive extrusion as part of a too close bed leveling. The hypothesis is that the excessive plastic will "nudge" the previous laid down plastic, which will loosen it from the bed.
In my experience, this issue only occurs when printing large, connected first layers - situations where the excessive plastic builds up with nowhere to go.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I am having the same issue. I saw one similar post describe this as "baconing" and said it comes from over extrusion. Looking at the filament coming out I could imagine that if there is too much filament for the given travel speed, then it would buckle up. I tried decreasing the extrusion percentage. The Makerbot slicing program doesn't have a setting for that so I did multiple test prints and raised the filament diameter from the default 1.77 to 1.84 in the end, which is about at 20% decrease in the extruder output. I also slowed the prints speed. Both factors seemed to improve the quality, so over extrusion and speed both seem to be contributing factors, but the problem still hasn't gone away completely. It's happening with white Makerbot brand filament on large layers but not with green Makerbot brand and small layer heights (I haven't yet tried green coarse or white fine). I measured the white filament diameter with calipers and it is the proper 1.75mm, I'm just forcing it to extrude less by putting 1.84mm into the slicer settings.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: pla, prusa-i3, print-quality, adhesion, rafts
--- |
thread-4703 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4703 | Unable to install auto-bed levelling sensor into my Anet A8 | 2017-10-04T19:05:13.593 | # Question
Title: Unable to install auto-bed levelling sensor into my Anet A8
I've been trying to install an inductive sensor for auto-bed levelling into my Anet A8 and I'm having a few issues.
I have been using the wiring diagram provided by Solid Ground Electronics in one of his videos (Cheap 3D Printer - Anet A8: Upgrades, Experience & Thoughts), which I decided to follow as it still uses the Z limit switch, in case the inductive sensor fails to work.
The sensor seems to work when I power the printer on, the red LED is constantly on and when it comes into contact with metal, the LED turns brighter (as shown in the photos).
However, when I set it to auto-home, the Z axis does not move down like it usually does (until it hits the switch), but it moves up a bit. Although when I auto-homed the printer with a piece of metal under the sensor, the Z axis moved down, like it should do. So the sensor is acting in an opposite way to what it needs to.
I believe that it's been wired up correctly with a 10k ohm resistor connected to the base of the transistor and the signal wire of the probe. However the NPN transistor shown in the diagram is '2N4401' and the one I used is 'PN2222A', but I believe this should have no difference in the function of the transistor (only the voltages it can handle).
I initially thought that as the NPN transistor is slightly different, perhaps the polarity of emitter and collector is incorrect, so I switched them around but the problem still occurs.
I would thoroughly appreciate it if anyone can help!
# Answer
> 2 votes
The sensor is working correctly, but the signal is inverted.
Take the obvious solution: invert the endstop from being normally open to normally closed or vice-versa in your firmware.
If you still want to use your existing limit switch in parallel with the sensor (as shown in the video), you will need to switch that one over as well (usually limit switches have 3 contact points, one common, one NC, one NO, so you'd need to move the wire from the NC contact to NO or vice-versa).
---
Tags: z-axis, anet-a8, z-probe, endstop
--- |
thread-4710 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4710 | ROKO bed levelling sensor | 2017-10-06T19:01:38.640 | # Question
Title: ROKO bed levelling sensor
I was sent my sensor (a ROKO) and I plugged it in with the pins in the wrong order, would this break my sensor? If so is there anything I could do?
# Answer
> 3 votes
I can't comment for the specific sensor you have, but in general, yes, if you plug something in backwards you have a chance of breaking it - and whatever you plug it into - permanently.
You might have gotten lucky, though - but short of testing the sensor to see whether it will work there is no way to find out.
Consider that these sensors are not made to be plugged directly into endstop connectors. The endstop connectors only provide 5V, whereas these sensors often require at least 6V to operate. Some people get lucky and have theirs work on only 5V, but it's not guaranteed to work. This might also be the cause why your sensor is not working, even if it's not broken. There are some special sensors out there that are rated to work at 5V, but you should check the operating voltage of your specific sensor.
If your sensor requires more than 5V to operate, then you should also be aware that the signal pin might output more than 5V, in which case, it should not be connected directly to the signal pin on the board (since anything over 5V might damage the board).
Finally, consider the possibility that neither orientation (backwards or not) is correct. Perhaps the order of the wires in the sensor's connector is different from that of the main board. Make sure that the pinout of your sensor matches the pinout of the connector on your board. These sensors usually have a slightly strange color coding where black is signal, blue is ground and brown is power.
---
Tags: printer-building, diy-3d-printer
--- |
thread-4707 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4707 | can the intel sense "xyzprinters 3dscanner" work on amd prossessors anyway? | 2017-10-05T18:55:00.743 | # Question
Title: can the intel sense "xyzprinters 3dscanner" work on amd prossessors anyway?
i ordred a xyzprinter 3d scanner today on ebay, bechause i through it would work with my quick new windows 10 pc setup. but when i tested the scanner compability i downloaded here now, it says that all settings on my pc is compatible, but exept from the prosessor i have, the amd ryzen 7, 8 core. it says that my computer is not compatible with the xyz scanner bechause i have not the intel 4 or newer intel prosessor, but instead of having intel prosessor, i have an amd ryzen 7, 8 core prosessor. will the xyz 3d scanner work anyway, even if i have not intel but as quick as an old intel 4thgen prosessor is, i have an new amd ryzen 7, 8 core?
(i have also 32gb ram memory and nvidia 1070 mini graphic card with 8gb ram in and windows home 10 64bit and 3 usb 3.0 ports on my pc. and a corsair motherboard).
# Answer
Here are some ways a program might indicate incompatibility:
1. There is something in the code that is actually incompatible -- such as some Intel-only DSP instructions.
2. They are using an Intel library or source code that is licensed only for use on Intel processors.
3. They added a check to their code to be sure the processor was powerful enough to handle the load, and they forgot to consider AMD or other processors.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design, scanning
--- |
thread-4517 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4517 | Graphite self-lubricating bushings performance? | 2017-08-21T00:13:49.903 | # Question
Title: Graphite self-lubricating bushings performance?
I'm about to start building a CoreXY style printer and can't decide which bearings/bushings to buy. My first printer was a Delta with belts and opendbuilds wheels, so I'm lost regarding this matter.
Anyone tried these self-lubricating graphite bushings? How do they perform compared to the standard LMUU bearings?
Robotdigg link
Aliexpress link
* Do they run smoother, more silent?
* Do they have play?
* Do they stall after a while? Need maintenance?
* Any feedback is much appreciated.
# Answer
Bushings will be quieter than linear ball bearings. Some online discussions complain of the linear bearings becoming noisy, and (in what I think is a failure of the balls to circulate properly) for the balls to develop flat spots. If the balls aren't moving properly, you will end up with a bushing. You might start with a bushing in the first place.
Bushings spread the load over the surface of the rods, so there should be minimal wear. Bearings and bushings are limited by the load and the speed. In 3D printers, neither the speeds or the loads are particularly high. Bushings should work well.
Bushings may have slightly higher sliding friction, which could result in slower maximum printing speed for motors with the same torque. The characteristics should be more stable as they age.
Others may have different experience, but I would consider either the self-lubricated brass bushings, or perhaps the self-lubricated graphite bushings.
As an example, inkjet and laser printers do not use ball bearings for the carrier. 15 years ago, it was bronze bushing on stainless steel shafts. Over time, it has evolved to PTFE pads sliding on stamped sheet metal.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: bearing
--- |
thread-4678 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4678 | Filament Cost vs. Quality? | 2017-09-30T15:06:29.600 | # Question
Title: Filament Cost vs. Quality?
I'm a 3D printing newbie, and I bought some Hatchbox PLA to start with since it is recommended by the community it seems.
Is there really a steep quality drop off if you go for brands that are 50% less than Hatchbox? What does that quality drop off look like?
# Answer
In addition to @TecTec3's answer:
### Parameters that define filament quality:
* Diameter variance: If there is too much fluctuation in diameter, the filament might get stuck.
* Material Quality: I had really expensive filament that was brittle and did tend to snap when it was extruded. Other filament just didn't melt but started burning up and regulary clogging my extruder.
### My opinion:
I'd say you shouldn't go with too cheap filament and stick with one that works out best for you. If you have issues try another brand. It's impossible to tell quality just from the price.
> 2 votes
# Answer
There is no massive difference in print quality of PLA filaments unless you start going under 10 dollars US for a 1 kilo spool. The filament that I use is yoyi PLA that can be found on Amazon for about 20 bucks, this filament works really nice with my printer and it is fairly cheap. Just make sure you never use the hobby king brand PLS as the quality on that truly is horrendous.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: print-material, material
--- |
thread-4735 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4735 | gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored? | 2017-10-14T10:44:39.993 | # Question
Title: gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored?
A while ago, I created some simple command buttons in Octoprint to help with bed levelling, by hopping to particular points on the bed. I realised that what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm, move, and then home Z though, to avoid ploughing the nozzle along the bed if the level is badly off.
So I did this:
```
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z-10
- G90
- G1 X30 Y160 F9000
- G28 Z
name: Back Left
type: command
```
Which should be, switch to relative move, Move -10mm Z, switch back to absolute, go to the specified point and then home Z.
Except there's no Z move. I get the feeling that something might be optimising the moves together into one, or something similar... how can I get my printer to move up, *then* across, *then* down?
(printer is an quite modified Anet A8 i3 clone - I think the board is Melzi-based?)
# Answer
> what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm
The command `G1 Z-10` tells the printer to *decrease* the Z-axis position, i.e., move the nozzle closer to the bed. You should use `G1 Z10` instead.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Thanks in part to Tom van Der Zanden, I got a working version, which I'll paste below to add some actual value to this question! The G1 XY coordinates for each position are for near the corners on a 220x220 bed, but leaving enough room to access a screw in the corner of the bed if you need to (I don't anymore, but my printer did initially) - for different bed sizes, you'll want to change them. Add to ~/.octoprint/config.yml
```
controls:
- children:
- commands:
- M140 S50
- M104 S190 T0
name: Preheat
type: command
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z10
- G90
- G1 X30 Y50 F9000
- G28 Z0
name: Front Left
type: command
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z10
- G90
- G1 X180 Y70 F9000
- G28 Z0
name: Front Right
type: command
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z10
- G90
- G1 X30 Y160 F9000
- G28 Z0
name: Back Left
type: command
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z10
- G90
- G1 X180 Y160 F9000
- G28 Z0
name: Back Right
type: command
- commands:
- G91
- G1 Z10
- G90
- G1 X100 Y100 F9000
- G28 Z0
name: Centre
type: command
layout: horizontal
name: Levelling
```
> 0 votes
---
Tags: g-code, octoprint
--- |
thread-4520 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4520 | Stringy PETG prints | 2017-08-21T09:01:08.207 | # Question
Title: Stringy PETG prints
I have started printing with PETG so I can create objects that won't deform if I leave them in my car.
My first prints look good, but have strings of material coming off the print in places.
What should I try to prevent that?
I haven't had this problem with PLA.
# Answer
I've had similar experiences switching from PLA to PETG, and haven't gotten it fully figured out yet.
From what I know so far, to reduce petg strings:
* Increase retraction
* Lower temperature
> 3 votes
# Answer
If you are using a printer that runs Marlin, you might consider upgrading to a version with Linear Advance. Once I started using Linear Advance, I reduced the stringing of PETG. Also I was able to reduce the retraction amount without reducing the quality of the prints.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: pet
--- |
thread-4750 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4750 | Adding support when generating g-code from Cura Engine (command line)? | 2017-10-17T07:21:56.447 | # Question
Title: Adding support when generating g-code from Cura Engine (command line)?
Is it possible to use Cura Engine (the command line tool) to generate a gcode with support?
Here is what I do now:
```
CuraEngine slice -j /usr/share/cura/resources/definitions/ultimaker2.def.json -l my.stl -o my.gcode
```
# Answer
I found this in the fdrmprinter.def.json which you could might make a copy of and use instead for the -j option:
```
"support":
{
"label": "Support",
"type": "category",
"icon": "category_support",
"description": "Support",
"children":
{
"support_enable":
{
"label": "Enable Support",
"description": "Enable support structures. These structures support$
"type": "bool",
"default_value": false,
"settable_per_mesh": true,
"settable_per_extruder": false
}
}
}
```
Change the "default\_value" under "support\_enable" to true and that could work.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code, support-structures
--- |
thread-2624 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2624 | Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed? | 2016-08-10T15:50:17.600 | # Question
Title: Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?
I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either.
I was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put.
Do you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes.
For reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer.
# Answer
> 7 votes
Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works).
Taking it up to 100-110C for printing ABS should not be a problem, but you'll want to avoid sharp changes in temperature, and should be careful that your prints don't adhere too well: I've had PLA/PETG prints take out pieces of glass with them due to the force required to remove them from the build plate. You might want to try without any (or very little) adhesive first, and make sure your nozzle isn't too close to the build plate.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I've done it. Yes it will print just fine. Treat it like any other bed surface BUT... A few points to keep in mind and to consider.
Normal glass
* It will break fast. Had mine last a few weeks.
* It is not strong. If your Z endstop fails then it will crack
* Higher thermal expansion than other options. So parts pop off bed when it cools
While we are talking about beds. Lets talk about the other options. A popular plate is Borosilicate. Here are a few points about that as a bed.
* Borosilicate is a lot stronger.
* Borosilicate in my experience can chip / flake. I had it happen to
one of mine, never found the missing glass..
* It also has other properties such as high temp resistance and low thermal expansion.
Another option, my favorite is Tempered glass. I have never had it flake apart as I try to remove from the bed. Also it is stronger, doesn't shatter into razers.
You can get more comparisons at Here
So go for it! But I would let it cool then remove parts. Be EXTRA careful removing the part from the bed. Oyster shuckers and the like are likely to break the bad while you handle it (Bad!) I will say in the long run a tempered plate will save you money. I have had some plate of tempered for over a thousand hours of printing on some of my printers. Including my Mendlemax and Dozens of HARD head crashes. Same plate from 2013!
Also check the local hardware store. That is where I got my glass.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I am using a glass plate from a decommissioned flatbed scanner I got from the electronics trash. I cut it to size with a glass cutter and it is doing a swell job at 68°C for my PLA. The print sticks superbly during printing and almost pops off the buildplate when cooled down to less than 40°C.
I am very happy with the glass as a buildplate for PLA, especially because it came for free.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use normal glass plates on top of my heated borosilicate glass bed all the time.
Advantages:
* very cheap (about €3 where the borosilicate glass bed of my printer costs about €80 to replace)
* no need to wait till the bed cools down to start a new print. Just put on an other sheet of glass and start over. (I use 3dlac to make my prints stick better so trying to remove a print from a hot borosilicate glass bed often results in a chipped glass)
# Answer
> 0 votes
I was driving down the street the other day and saw a very nice OLD and LARGE mirror on a lawn at a garage sale. It was about 36" x 28".
Sale price? $5.00
I'm going to be using it for my MPCNC machine to allow me to print large prints on glass. The reason I like the OLD mirrors is that they are much thicker than the new ones and therefore more durable and solid.
If you're trying to stay economical, you can probably find an old mirror at a garage sale somewhere.
That being said, I currently print on glass with a heated bed and spray it with Aquanet Hair Spray. I have discovered that with PLA, if I heat the bed to 60 Celsius before printing and then allow it to cool down to room temperature before removing the print job, I am able to very easily remove items from the glass. Very little effort.
So, in summary, I'd recommend using Glass or a Mirror as your surface, heating it to 60 celsius before you print, spray it with aquanet hair spray, and you'll be glad you did.
Good luck.
---
Tags: pla, prusa-i3, heated-bed, build-plate
--- |
thread-4751 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4751 | Print Nozzle Dragging and Smearing Filament while Printing | 2017-10-17T19:58:04.243 | # Question
Title: Print Nozzle Dragging and Smearing Filament while Printing
I am building a Prusa i3 MK2 Clone and I am caught on this one. I have replaced the extruder with a MK8 adapted by myself to fit with most of the previous hardware from the E3D style extruder.
My current problem is that the nozzle appears to be dragging on the top of the layers. I can't tell if it's over extrusion or a layer height issue or what. I am testing by printing the 20mm calibration cube. The dimensions appear to be spot-on, but the layers start building up too much filament such that it just gets re-melted and shuffled around:
Anyone have a clue what this could be? Software, Hardware, Slic3r Settings?
I have: 0.5mm Nozzle Diameter. MK8 Direct Drive extruder.
Anything else you want to know?
Thanks!
--- UPDATE ---
Thanks everyone for your help. Turns out it was seriously over-extruding, like 3x what it should have been! I ran through this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/ Which helped me with what I needed to do to fix the issue, but just re-flashed Marlin on the printer with the updated setting.
Here's the result! WAY better, I still have some z-wobbling issues but i think the frame just needs more support than it has now and that should fix up the slightly jagged corners.
# Answer
> 5 votes
You stated your print of a 20mm cube came out spot on so I will rule out any z-axis configuration issues. It clearly seems like you are extruding too much plastic.
I use slic3r myself with repetier so I am familiar with the settings.
**Print Settings** \- Advanced
All the values should be 0 except first layer sometimes is 100%-200% depending on your personal setup. Increasing these values may cause more filament to leave the extruder.
**Filament Settings** \- Diameter
This should be set to 1.75 or 3 depending on your filament size. If you accidentally have it set to 1.75 when your filament is 3mm, it would probably be over-extruding since it pushing almost double the plastic with the same length.
**Filament Settings** \- Extrusion multiplier
This should be set to 1 or slowly adjust it 0.05 increments to reduce overall amount of plastic leaving the nozzle.
**Printer Settings** \- Nozzle diameter
This should be set to 0.5 since your nozzle is 0.5mm. Make sure your nozzle truly is this value.
**EDITED 10/19/17 - OP has solved problem and his own answer made me realize I made mistake on how to measure and correct extrusion steps/mm. Ignore this below and see what OP wrote in their edit.**
If all these Slic3r configurations fail or are correct and do not solve your problem, I think you may want to look into your motor step settings for the extruder. It may be too high pushing more filament than it should. To correct this, you need to do the length test where you will extrude 10mm or 50mm and measure the string of plastic. There might be some stretch so a 10mm may measure as 11mm but as long as your close it should be good. If you extrude 10mm and you measure 25mm, you need to recalculate your steps per mm.
Also for your first layer, make sure it is not being smushed to the build plate. You want it to be flattened a little to provide good adhesion but not too close to the build plate where it would constrict the nozzle.
Hope this helps, and good luck on your prints. May you never have to deal with thermal runaway error :)
---
Tags: prusa-i3, pla, extruder, slic3r, prusa-i3-rework
--- |
thread-4764 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4764 | 3D Builder is Saying "One or more objects is invalidly defined" | 2017-10-18T22:13:55.230 | # Question
Title: 3D Builder is Saying "One or more objects is invalidly defined"
Currently, 3D Builder is telling me "one or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair." What is this and what does it mean? When I click it, it totally messes up my model (I can't tell what it even did due to the orthogonal camera). Model stats:
* Made with Sketchup
* Used STL Exporter to export it
* Last I knew what the repairing did to it was to remove my sinks and reduced them to holes in the floor
* I used ASCII encoding for my STL (I tried using Binary, but it didn't help)
* I tried subdividing it but it didn't help.
Screenshots:
This is a picture of the model before repairing:
This is a picture of the model after repairing:
(Just in case you wonder. I actually **have** to use STL for this project)
# Answer
How thick are those walls? 3D printers cannot print zero-width surfaces (and slicers cannot slice them). 3D Builder has tried to make your model printable, but obviously not in the way that you might have hoped for. You need to go back to Sketchup (or some other CAD package) and give the walls a definite thickness (and one big enough for a 3D printer to handle).
> 3 votes
# Answer
SketchUp is notorious for creating non-manifold (non-3D-printable) models. You would be much better off to learn to use a different, better suited program for your purposes.
Disregarding that aspect for the moment, your model prior to repair appears to be a general rectangular prismatic shape with dividers. Unfortunately, those dividers also appear to have zero wall thickness. One must create objects with thickness (minimum should be no lower than your nozzle diameter) in order to have that portion addressed.
Other views of the object may confirm this.
Back to the first reference, even a program as simple as TinkerCAD will give you SketchUp simplicity with a much smaller chance of this sort of failure. For more advanced model creation with parameters, Fusion 360 offers hobbyist free license. I'm also quite fond of OpenSCAD ( also free ) for parameter-based model creation.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: 3d-design
--- |
thread-4770 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4770 | Scanning 3D with a Kinect v2 on AMD Ryzen 7? | 2017-10-19T10:34:00.163 | # Question
Title: Scanning 3D with a Kinect v2 on AMD Ryzen 7?
My processor is running at 4.70 GHz and has 8 cores. I also have 32GB RAM. I have a USB 3.0 and a USB 3.1 xHCI hub, and Nvidia 1700 graphics card.
Can I use the Kinect v2 and the adapter to scan rooms, and objects, quickly, without trouble with the USB?
# Answer
> 0 votes
In short with the hardware you have it should be no problem. In actuality your specific setup, how you move the scanner, how stable is the scanner, what software you are using, and how you've calibrated the kinect will most likely have the largest impact on the quality, and speed in which you can scan.
---
Tags: scanning
--- |
thread-4771 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4771 | How is FDM Better than CBAM? | 2017-10-19T16:57:45.853 | # Question
Title: How is FDM Better than CBAM?
So there is a company called impossible objects that use CBAM technology witch the description can be found here http://impossible-objects.com/technology/ I am pretty sure that they are the only ones using this process, I want to know why. CBAM makes stronger material out of carbon fiber in a very sophisticated process stronger than FDM(Fused Deposition Modeling). This is interesting and I want to know why. I understand the process but not the pros and cons.
# Answer
Well the CBAM stuff is SUPER new, requires a lot more work done by hand (currently), and is going to be WAY expensive compared to widely used FDM machines.
Seems to me like a carbon fiber mixed filament is a cheaper way to go, with a possible annealing process to get the tensile strength up post-print.
Try locating a CBAM printer for $200! Maybe if the process becomes quicker, and the machines/materials cheaper to purchase, we could be using this method more in the future. I feel that we will likely advance the materials we have with FDM much faster than this other process would catch on and become affordable.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: fdm, carbon
--- |
thread-4774 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4774 | Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged | 2017-10-20T02:19:53.487 | # Question
Title: Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged
My first layer is suddenly not sticking for every new print I'm trying. When it lays down the first layer it has this weird jaggedness to it, doesn't firmly stick to the plate, and gets dragged by the nozzle. I've printed previously successful prints without an issue, but any new print I export from Cura is having this issue. I'm using the same profile that I do for the previously successful ones.
My relevant print settings are:
* Material: PLA
* Layer height: .2mm
* Hotend: 205c
* Plate: 60c
* Fan cooling: 50%
* Speed: 60mm/s
# Answer
Your nozzle is too far from the build plate. You should make some changes to bring the nozzle closer to the build plate for the first layer. There are a number of possibilities for doing this:
1. Adjust the Z-axis endstop
2. Loosen the bed leveling screws
3. Add an offset in G-code
This will squish the plastic down more, enabling it to stick to the build plate.
With solution (3), you have to be careful that you don't crash into the endstop. This solution works best if your printer homes towards max (and not min) or if you have non-mechanical (hall or optical) endstops.
> 6 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, ultimaker-cura
--- |
thread-3922 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3922 | Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot | 2017-04-25T13:43:35.990 | # Question
Title: Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot
For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, poppy-project.org.
We are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.
It prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.
Have you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?
Thanks for the replies
# Answer
Having a bit more experience since my comment post above, I can offer up a possible solution. If your printer is able to print ABS, it works great with HIPS as support material. I've been printing boatloads of ABS models. When support is needed, the HIPS supports will bond reasonably well to the ABS, but when cooled, flick off with a sharp pointed instrument such as a razor knife point.
As an additional reference, a good bond to the print bed is required for both ABS and HIPS and if your slicer allows support density adjustment, increase the support in that manner. My slicer (Simplify3D) would print an accordian type of support unless instructed otherwise. I set up for alternating 45° patterns making a denser but also more vertically rigid structure.
If you cannot print ABS, PLA and PVA as Ogre55 suggests is about your only option. I see from the 'net that the SpiderBot Pro supports ABS, which implies the basic version might not have a heated bed.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Why not try using PVA(Polyvinyl alcohol) for support material.
I use it for my support material with PLA, and it dissolves in water.
here is a link to some on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr\_1\_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1508539512&sr=1-3&keywords=PVA
> -3 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
--- |
thread-4664 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4664 | How should I go about printing easily removable rafts? | 2017-09-27T21:50:05.010 | # Question
Title: How should I go about printing easily removable rafts?
I have had a 3d printer for a while now, and I have a lot of the quality settings dialed in pretty well, but one thing that constantly bugs me is removing the raft from my finished prints. I am using Repetier and I have set the air gap to 0.2 mm. That led to much better results than the default 0, which were impossible to remove at all, but it is still not great. Are there any settings I should look at changing to get easier to remove rafts? Does the filament affect this? I am printing in Hatchbox PLA at high temps. I have a heated bed, and reducing the temp on that did seem to help. Maybe it keeps the layers on the raft from fusing with the layers on the part? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have been able to get rafts that peel off by editing the g-code after the raft has finished and adding an M104 set temperature command telling my printer to cool the nozzle down to about 40 degrees and then another M104 command to tell the nozzle to heat back up again. This gives the raft enough time to cool and then the raft doesn't weld to the rest of the print. If you are using a heated bed I would suggest trying the M190 command and turning that off after the raft and then back on after the first layer as well.
# Answer
> 3 votes
As comments suggest, a raft is not all that popular. Consider using a brim/skirt instead. I've had excellent luck with a 4-mm skirt, printing onto blue painter's tape. (Unless you consider it bad luck when I have a devil of a time getting some parts to release :-) ). Skirts are trivial to cut free from the object.
In a similar vein, if you run into trouble getting support structures to pop off the object cleanly, try to make them as thin-walled as possible.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I use raft almost always for ABS and PLA. My favorite setting for gap is somewhere between 0.11-0.13 mm both for 0.1 and 0.2 mm layer height.
By using 3-4 layers of raft I always get predictably good quality of a lower layer and not have any issues with removing prints from the surface which I had without using raft (especially with large or weak prints)
---
Tags: repetier, post-processing, rafts, repetier-host
--- |
thread-4781 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4781 | Could I 3D print an airbrush? | 2017-10-23T03:18:07.403 | # Question
Title: Could I 3D print an airbrush?
Could I 3D model and print a working airbrush in PLA?
# Answer
The problem with this I see is that the PLA takes and holds paint super well. I have painted it with acrylic a lot and it works great for models you want painted after printing.
I know next to nothing about airbrushing, but it seems to me like keeping a printed airbrush clean for re-use would be a big pain. It looks like they make the pro airbrushes with some kind of stainless steel most likely for the non-sticking purposes of re-use, which PLA just won't have.
That being said, don't be afraid to model it and try! I would make a suggestion that you switch to ABS and then do a vapor bath on the result to smooth out the material and possibly make it easier to clean excess paint out of.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, pla, 3d-design
--- |
thread-4784 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4784 | Good Designing Software for cheap | 2017-10-23T18:13:46.473 | # Question
Title: Good Designing Software for cheap
So I've seen some very good design software, but almost all of it is very expensive. I'm just wondering if there's a good cheap design software out there.
# Answer
> 1 votes
OnShape is free for students and the public and is very similar to Fusion 360. It works online on almost any device and was built by some of the engineers from Solidworks. Free accounts can not have any private documents so anyone can see your design. If you know how to use Solidworks/Inventor you will be able to pickup Fusion 360/OnShape very quickly.
OpenSCAD is also free but works through its own programming language. It requires a strong math background and some understanding of programming to use as it has no GUI tools.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Try Fusion 360. It's free for educators, students, enthusiasts and start-ups. It's not 100% intuitive, but once you learn the basics, it probably has all the facilities that you will ever need for mechanical design.
---
Tags: software
--- |
thread-4551 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4551 | Is my 5A polyfuse on my RAMPS board bad? | 2017-08-26T07:41:27.943 | # Question
Title: Is my 5A polyfuse on my RAMPS board bad?
My printer stopped printing during a few prints, and i found that the extruder had stopped heating, and the motors had stopped running. I checked the code, and nothing was wrong. My 5A fuse though, was extremely hot. I wanted to verify whether it was my fuse that had turned bad or there was some kind of short in my circuitry. With the power switched on, none of my appliances drew any current. However, the RAMPS board drew about 0.16 amps. Is that normal? If that is normal, does it mean that my fuse needs replacement? Because none of my loads seemed to draw unnecessary current. Thanks in advance.
# Answer
> 2 votes
As @Mikhail Z commented, it does sound like the fuse may be bad.
The first thing to do is put an ohmmeter across the fuse (with power off!) -- if you get high resistance the fuse is definitely bad. However, if you get low resistance that does not prove the fuse is good -- see @Tom's comments below re. polyfuses in particular, and how to disconnect from the rest of the circuit.
If you don't get lucky testing a fuse in-line, remove it and put the ohmmeter on it in isolation. Whether good or bad, it's good to put in a fuse-holder or socket, so you never have to de-solder the fuse again.
Some boards use auto-resetting fuses or circuit breakers, which might have more complicated ways of failing (you can always replace the part to be sure). I personally avoid auto-resetting for anything that supplies heaters; if there's a problem I want to intervene rather than letting it try again endlessly.
Since the heaters and the motors are both down, it's a good bet it's the fuse or something very early (that is, "near" the power supply). If it were a single motor or single heater, then the output control (typically a solid-state relay, or perhaps the logic controlling it) would be a better bet. Though unlikely, it's possible for two or more such controls to fail at once, so don't rule that out *completely*.
Let us know what you discover.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Its very likely the polyfuse is bad. In an ideal printer, given the heater cores and great deal of power, polyfuses are some of the worst things you can use. Polyfuses have a tendency to fail in "interesting" ways, especially around their trigger amperage. Fire is one of those failure modes.
Not only that, but if this is a noname chinese RAMPS 1.4, then you're also looking at 1/2 oz pour (it should be 1 oz or more for power traces) for the circuit board and cheaping on everything possible. I've a few boards like this that are a firetrap, along with a badly poured PCB heated bed. In that case, I would consider getting a better controller. If that's outside of your budget there is another way to do this.
Unsolder the polyfuses and put wire between them. Normally, this is **unprotecting** yourself. But we're going to fix that. Head to the local automotive shop and get yourself inline fuses (think of 2 wires with a fuse in a pill shaped device). You want a 5A and a 11A fuse. Or if you did the math and know better, get the fuses you calculated for. Now, make sure they're inline with the + side of the power.
You now have external fuses that you know are rated for the appropriate amperage, unlike polyfuses.
---
Tags: ramps-1.4
--- |
thread-4794 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4794 | Why Cura flattens first layer of round objects? | 2017-10-25T09:45:31.790 | # Question
Title: Why Cura flattens first layer of round objects?
When i am creating g file with Cura, it always flattens the first layer of round edges touching the plate. Is problem Cura or is there any setting that i can solve this?
Thanks, Veysel :)
# Answer
> 4 votes
All models must be sliced horizontally into layers in order to be printed, and each layer is flat. That is simply the bottom layer. Since you are printing a cylinder, you could always rotate it by 90 degrees, and stand it on its end (before you slice it, naturally). You should always consider the best orientation for printing any model.
Also, if you print a cylinder on its side, the slicer will need to generate a lot of support structures to support the lower curved surfaces. By printing a cylinder on its end, no support should be required.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-256 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/256 | Optimal ratio of fresh to used nylon powder | 2016-01-14T22:29:05.317 | # Question
Title: Optimal ratio of fresh to used nylon powder
I am operating a laser sintering machine, using polyamide 2200 powder (with a grain size of approximately 50 micrometers). During a print, a lot of powder goes unsintered and can theoretically be reused. However, using purely recycled powder degrades print quality to an unacceptable level.
Mixing a little used powder into a larger amount of fresh powder seems to work well though. What is the greatest ratio of used to fresh powder that still gives good results, and is there anything I can do (pre- postprocessing) to allow more powder to be reused?
# Answer
> 1 votes
You'll find generally that mixing 40% new polyamide with 60% recycled polyamide will result in a reasonable finish and part. You will obviously want to use all new for parts requiring the best possible finish and mechanical properties, but this mixture will be very difficult to tell apart from a fully new mixture part:
http://www.paramountind.com/pdfs/eos\_pa2200\_mds.pdf
This is more detailed research showing how used powder changes and how that affects print quality here:
http://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/abs/10.1108/13552540910960299
Searching for the research paper title may find a free source, but the linked resource does require a subscription or payment to that service.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I currently use the 60/40 recycling mix ratio and find that it works very well. I do however wonder if there is an even more effective ratio in order to recycle used powder. I currently discard all "cake" powder (powder remaining in the build piston) and am only "recycling" the push off powder. I found this paper but it's unclear if they are reusing just the push off or both push off and cake. Any further opinions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.internationaljournalssrg.org/IJME/2015/Volume2-Issue7/IJME-V2I7P106.pdf
---
Tags: quality, recycling, sls
--- |
thread-4747 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4747 | How to draw a Kossel delta corner piece in Fusion 360? | 2017-10-16T15:28:02.170 | # Question
Title: How to draw a Kossel delta corner piece in Fusion 360?
I want to draw a corner piece for a Kossel delta 3D printer in Fusion 360 for 2040 aluminum extrusions like in the picture below, but I can't find a way to actually start. I draw a 3-sided polygon and a 20x40 mm rectangle but don't know where to go from there. Do you have any suggestions?
# Answer
> 1 votes
I love me a challenge so I just hacked this together: (a half waiting for mirror) As for strategy, I simply used the line tool to do a basic shape and then went to town with constraints and dimensions to see what I end up with. Can't fail.
Clearly, you're missing information to constraint the sketch fully, but if you have the extrusions and the machine, you could just print a few tests to guess the missing values.
(Like precise position of the circles, of the 20x40 rectangle...)
You can download/ view my fusion model here: http://a360.co/2gJsdxB
Good luck.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I attempted to create your drawing but discovered that an important set of parameters is missing. You have to have either the intersection point of the legs (73.34) from each side or the angle between the legs (73.34) and the base (106.41) to create construction lines. Once you have either of those items, you can construct the remainder of the design using offsets, radii, etc.
More accurately, one other missing item that would be required to complete this design is the placement of the holes at the top (12) relative to some other feature of the design.
Having taken on the challenge of your drawing, I've found that it is necessary to surrender. The angles or the intersection point are critical and without them, no solution comes to my alleged mind.
I have also discovered one additional datum missing. The distance of the bottom truss and the thickness of this truss would be required to provide a more certain solution.
One the flip side, I've found alpha-tech3d.com which appears to include similar parts, rotated 180° with what appears to have all of the necessary data.
---
Tags: 3d-design, kossel
--- |
thread-4807 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4807 | Layer height issues creating partial top layer | 2017-10-25T21:35:22.117 | # Question
Title: Layer height issues creating partial top layer
Cura is slicing my object (a gear with text) with a partial top layer, and I believe it has to do with layer height and rounding issues. I have been able to solve this at specific heights 10-14mm using a layer height of 0.25 mm, however other heights will cause this issue to arise again. There must be a solution to this that doesn't require the user to constantly be adjusting layer height and object height in order to resolve what I perceive to be a rounding issue.
Here is the model: https://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly\_v1.0\_joined\_text\_2.stl
Here are my settings:
Here is the model at a height of 10 mm: Note the diagonal line, this is the line between two layers.
Here is the model at a height of 13 mm: Note the diagonal line again, and how it is farther to the right than the 10mm height view.
I don't believe that this is not a non-manifold issue. I have also tested this using a gear without text.
Like I mentioned, I can get rid of that layer division at certain layer heights and object heights (e.g. 0.25mm layer height), but I would like to find out how to get rid of this issue *regardless of object/layer height*. Thank you for your help.
# Answer
> 2 votes
Your model isn't perfect. I took it into Windows 10 3D Builder for simplicity. I kept clicking the "Mirror" function and noticed as it basically flipped there is some slight movement. I measured some points from bottom to top and noticed some differences.
Try to take your model into some software to fix/flatten it. Or recreate it making sure its perfectly flat on both sides. It is definitely not your Cura software.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Even though you've selected an answer, here's another viewpoint. Ignoring the brim that I've added by default via my slicer, you can see the first few layers are not complete. This indicates a model that's a fraction of a degree off-plane.
Any number of methods can be used to correct this. Meshmixer has a great "align" function in the edit menu which will drop it on the bed. My slicer, S3D will work in that respect with "Place surface on bed" or some such terms.
The image below represents the result of using Align in Meshmixer, Inspector (repair all) and export. The STL file imported to S3D presented exactly the same image on the first layer as in the image above. When I used "Place surface on bed and selected the horizontal cross-member as the reference surface, the first layer result is this:
The slicer completed the imaging with this result, clearly with no diagonal artifacts:
---
Tags: 3d-models, ultimaker-cura, slicing
--- |
thread-4286 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4286 | How do I get a replacement PTFE tube to fit inside my nozzle? | 2017-06-25T02:40:20.267 | # Question
Title: How do I get a replacement PTFE tube to fit inside my nozzle?
I have been getting clogs and believe that it may be due to a damaged PTFE tube inside my hot end. I have a replacement (it came with my printer), but I can't seem to fit the tube into the nozzle.
I also tried to turn the original PTFE tube around, and I can't get the other end to fit into the nozzle either.
Is there a trick to it?
# Answer
> 0 votes
In the end, I was able to get the tube in the nozzle.
It took a lot of patience, and it seems to help if the nozzle is warm as well.
# Answer
> 0 votes
What kind of printer do you have? Is it a FlashForge? They sell replacement PTFE tubes on their website, and you can also buy them on Amazon. Just be careful you are buying the correct tube for the correct printer. For example, the Flashforge Finder does not use the same size PTFE tube as the Flashforge Creator Pro or Flashforge Dreamer.
If you had trouble once, you can bet you will probably have trouble again. You should probably buy the part now before you need it. I tell you this as I sit without a working printer (and I have three) while I wait for parts.
Just be sure you buy the correct size tubing.
# Answer
> 0 votes
For the sake of the few pennies, I'd buy the threaded tube with the PTFE already in from any internet auction site.
---
Tags: hotend, nozzle, ptfe-tube
--- |
thread-4792 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4792 | Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code? | 2017-10-25T06:50:39.283 | # Question
Title: Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code?
How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine.
Are there any parameters I can add to `ultimaker2.def.json` to achieve this? Thanks.
# Answer
Found a solution. This need to be applied under `"settings"`
```
"command_line_settings": {
"label": "Command Line Settings",
"description": "Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.",
"type": "category",
"enabled": true,
"children": {
"center_object": {
"description": "Whether to center the object on the middle of the build platform (0,0), instead of using the coordinate system in which the object was saved.",
"type": "bool",
"label": "Center object",
"default_value": true,
"enabled": true
}
}
}
```
> 1 votes
# Answer
If this is over the commandline tool "CuraEngine", then you will have to read the sourcecode. According to the Author, 'Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.' (cringe!).
If you're talking of the GUI program, then right click and click "Center". But this requires GUI usage. Not so nice if you want to automate using curaengine as your slicer.
> -3 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
--- |
thread-4207 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4207 | Anet A8 right Z drops 2 mm during print | 2017-06-09T12:55:29.157 | # Question
Title: Anet A8 right Z drops 2 mm during print
I've noticed that after my Anet A8 completes a print, the right hand Z mount ends up 1-2 mm lower than the left, even though I make sure both the left and right hand Z mounts of the X-axis are at the same height before switching on the printer.
Does anyone know what the cause of this might be?
I'm guessing something is causing the right hand Z to skip steps. I can't see or hear any obvious mechanical issues. I checked all guide and threaded rods were straight before assembly.
Could it be a faulty stepper or control electronics?
# Answer
My guess is your Z guides are not strictly parallel because there's no instruction how to install X guides correctly. When you install X guides, you can easily make horizontal distance between two Z-mounts either too small or too large, which puts extra stress on one of the Z motors. Move your extruder to home position, measure distance between bottom ends of Z threaded rods and between top ends, and try to adjust right Z-mount position on X guides so that these two distances become equal. Use hammer, but be accurate with plastic.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Try winding the Z axis all the up and down a few times using the front panel controls. Does it still go out of alignment? Is it out of alignment at the top? Does it come back into alignment when you wind it back down?
The principle is: if you have a dodgy motor drive chip, or a mechanical fault, it will skip some steps on the way up and the two motors will be out of synch. Then, on the way back down, it will skip an (approximately equal) number of steps and the motors will return to something resembling similar places.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, anet-a8
--- |
thread-3507 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3507 | Is PLA filament conductive? | 2017-02-01T16:43:29.490 | # Question
Title: Is PLA filament conductive?
I am planing on printing something that will make contact with PCB boards. The print will be most likely to be in PLA. I don't want to fry the PCB board so I want to know if 3D printed PLA objects are conductive.
I googled and found out about special non-conductive PLA and conductive PLA. But what about the conductivity of normal PLA?
# Answer
Normal PLA is non-conductive. You can take an $\Omega$-meter to a test part if you're really concerned somehow you have some PLA that is conductive.
There is a caveat that your color may include metal flake or graphite of some kind. Depending on the density it may be conductive. But I've tested my silver on hand and it gave me infinite resistance.
> 18 votes
# Answer
PLA itself falls in the category of non-conductors, with a resistivity ($\rho=R\frac A l=\frac 1 \sigma$) in the order of $10^{16}\ \Omega \text m$ (see here), similar to other plastics. Following image gives an idea of the values of resistivity for usual conductors and isolators, insulating materials have resistivity greater than $10^9\ \Omega\text m$, conductors have it smaller than $100\ \Omega \text m$ (copper is about $10^{-8} \ \Omega \text m$):
However, PLA can be mixed with some amounts of a conductor as graphite, making the filament a conductive material (not as good as, by example, copper). This filament can be used to create some kinds of electric circuits.
Other additions (coloring, ...) could also change slightly its properties.
Obviously, if PLA reaches glass transition temperature or melting point, holes can appear in the surface, breaking insulation.
> 13 votes
# Answer
PLA is non-conductive at room temperature, but when you heat it up over 70 C it is no longer as great an electrical insulator as the part will begin to fail. These temperatures could occur in electrical shorting situations or even increased electrical resistance in a circuit over time. I would hesitate to use PLA in electrical scenarios with a lot of load. As the resistance drops in the PLA (The resistance is still very high) and load begins to run through the PLA you have a recipe for a fire.
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/eej.21272/full/
The other problem with a printed PLA part is that many times they are permeable to liquids. This means that if you say you get salt on them say from your hands and condensation say from your humid living environment... current cant pass through your plug.
> 7 votes
# Answer
It's non-conductive, but I would check to make sure with any colored filament. Black may have iron oxide or carbon black which may give it minor conductance.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: filament, pla, material
--- |
thread-4811 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4811 | What is the best free source for generating g-code | 2017-10-26T01:27:47.787 | # Question
Title: What is the best free source for generating g-code
Ok so i have built a 3d printer from old cd rom drives. Before installing the 3d pen(extruder/hotend) i used www.makercam.com to export i file containing a star. With a marker attached the machone successfully drew a star. Now i have the 3d pen but using makercam i am not having any luck. Is there a better way to generate files for my new toy?
# Answer
The g code is generated by a program like slic3r, skeinforge or cura. These programs import a CAD model slilce it into layers and output the gcode required to print each layer.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, g-code
--- |
thread-4429 | https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4429 | Creality 3D Ender-4, a "extruder kit" does not fit the frame | 2017-07-27T18:52:11.410 | # Question
Title: Creality 3D Ender-4, a "extruder kit" does not fit the frame
This is my first time building a 3D printer (a "Creality Ender-4").
Everything is going fine except the "extruder kit" part that does not have enough space to attach on the frame. Should I drill it to have a longer hole so it can be attached to the frame? I just want another set of eyes to look at it to make sure I'm not crazy.
# Answer
Dude, you're absolutely not crazy, I almost put the entire thing back in the box when I realized I'd have to void the warranty just to finish putting together my printer but I wound up boring out the holes a bit closer to the edges of the extruder and assembling it all the same, it works wonderfully now that I have it attached.
> 1 votes
# Answer
From the photo on their website, it looks like you are orienting it correctly.
Here is a photo to confirm the orientation.
Note: I added this as an answer so I could share the photo
> 1 votes
# Answer
Your request appears to be "another set of eyes" and I'll add to that by adding another photo:
If you compare the photo from the official store you can see the gap between the mounting screw and the body of the extruder assembly is obviously wider in the official photo. On the plus side, the extruder mount is not something that would be considered system critical, because you're using a Bowden tube design. Even a bit of misalignment would mean zero impact on the printed model quality.
Consider to contact the seller, including the photo from the store and your photo and ask for a correct mounting plate. You would likely be able to use the oversize hole mount until a replacement arrives. For such a small part, they should not charge you.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building, creality-ender-4
--- |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.