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https://www.wikihow.com/Have-a-Glow-Up	How to Have a Glow Up	To have a glow up, make a skincare routine, including washing, moisturizing, and exfoliating your face every day, to keep your skin shining. If you wear makeup, experiment with various styles and watch different tutorials to find a new looks or 2 that suits you. Try to eat balanced meals with plenty of fruit and veg as often as you can, which will help you look and feel healthy. You should also surround yourself with people who support you and bring out the best in you, which will help you glow on a daily basis.	Follow a skincare routine to help your skin glow. Your skin is one of the first things that people notice about you and having glowing skin will really help your transformation shine! Clean your face with water twice a day and use a toner, moisturizer, and exfoliator that is suitable for your skin type. Remember to take off your makeup each night before you go to sleep so that you wake up with fresh and smooth skin. If you have problems or concerns about your skin, visit a dermatologist for professional advice. Getting your skin to glow might be as simple as using a different product or getting more of a specific nutrient! Stand up straight and tall to improve your posture. Your posture can make a huge difference in your appearance! Keep your back straight, your shoulders back, and your arms resting naturally by your sides. When you're sitting down, keep your back at a right angle to your thighs and try to release any tension to prevent straining your muscles. If you experience any pain or are having trouble maintaining good posture, visit a doctor or a physiotherapist for professional advice. Wear clothes that emphasize your favorite features. Wearing clothes that flaunt your best features will help you to look and feel your best! Maybe you want to wear a color that makes your eyes pop or a pair of boots that draw attention to your long legs? Try out plenty of different clothes and experiment with different outfits to find a style you love. Don't be afraid to try out statement pieces like a bright blazer, an elegant dress, or some new heels. Choose tighter fitting garments if you want to accentuate your figure. Vertical lines have a slimming effect while horizontal lines accentuate curves. Ultimately, wear clothes that make you feel happy and confident! Experiment with makeup to see if you like how it makes you look. Whether makeup is totally foreign to you or you want to try out a new product, experimenting with makeup can make a huge difference to your appearance. There are plenty of free makeup tutorials available online, so use these to your advantage to try out different looks and learn about new products. Even if you decide that makeup isn't for you, at least you have practiced a new skill and become more sure of who you are. Remember to care for your skin especially well if you use makeup regularly. Always moisturize and take off all of your makeup at the end of the day. Get a new hairstyle that you have always wanted to try. Maybe it's bangs, balayage, or a bob? Take the plunge and get that cut or color you have always wanted! Look online for inspiration if you need it and print out pictures to take along with you to your hair appointment. Explain to your hairstylist the look you're going for and listen to their advice about what cut and color would work best with your style. A new hairstyle is an easy way to quickly change your appearance dramatically! Drink1⁄2 US gal (1.9 L) of water every day to stay hydrated. Glowing up happens from the inside out and water is the key to helping you look and feel your best every day. Buy a reusable drink bottle and keep it filled up with fresh water at all times. Carry it with you wherever you go to remind yourself to stay hydrated! ⁄ 2 US gal (1.9 L) of water is just an approximate figure, as the ideal amount of water differs from person to person. Drink the amount of water that helps you to feel your best and visit a doctor or a dietitian if you have any concerns. If you aren't the biggest fan of plain water, you can always make infused water using your favorite produce to give it a bit more flavor. Try strawberries, cucumber, oranges, or mint! Remembering to drink more water can be difficult when you first start. Try setting a reminder on your phone or putting a note on the fridge. Alternatively, you can also download smartphone apps that track your water intake and give you friendly reminders. Brush your teeth regularly to help your smile look its best. A bright, happy smile is a massive part of the glow up transformation! Brush your teeth every morning and night, and remember to floss your teeth each day too. Visit a dentist once a year for an annual checkup to keep your teeth healthy and strong! You can also use teeth-whitening products to help your smile dazzle. Eat a well-balanced diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables. How you fuel your body can make a huge difference to your glow up. Each 5-9 servings of fruit and vegetables per day, and plenty of lean protein, whole-grains, and healthy fats. Remember that everything in moderation is the best way to go, so limit your intake of processed foods but treat yourself occasionally too. Visit a doctor or a dietician if you have any concerns about your diet. Avoid skipping meals or following fad diets, as these practices won't help you to look and feel your best. Exercise regularly to keep yourself healthy. Exercise helps you to look and feel your best, in both your body and mind! Find a type of exercise that you enjoy, such as swimming, running, or yoga. Aim to exercise 3-5 times per week, unless you have been instructed otherwise by a health professional. You can also exercise with friends if that makes it more fun! You don't have to join a gym unless you want to. There are plenty of ways to exercise in your own home. Say positive affirmations every day to help build good self-esteem. A huge part of your glow up is learning to believe in yourself! Write down recurrent, negative thoughts and then write positive, logical affirmations as a counter-argument. Practice saying these positive affirmations aloud every day. Although it may feel difficult or silly at the beginning, with enough time and practice it should become easier to believe the positive affirmations. Some popular positive affirmations include, “I deserve to be happy,”, “I am an intelligent and hard-working person,” and “I am capable of reaching my goals,”. Surround yourself with positive people that support you. The attitude of the people who you are close to can influence you greatly. Seek family and friends that have a positive attitude and are supportive of who you are! You can also be positive and supportive to those around you, helping them glow too! If you are having trouble finding positive and supportive people, try making a few new friends. Join a club or group with people that have similar interests, use social media, or simply reach out and talk to new people that you normally wouldn't. You have nothing to lose! Use positive self-talk and practice being assertive to help your confidence grow. Glowing up is all about having the confidence to shine and to be your best self. Even if you don't feel confident right away, simply fake it till you make it and nobody will be able to tell the difference! Use positive self-talk to bring yourself up instead of down, challenge negative thoughts about yourself, and practice being assertive in your day-to-day life. It can also help to surround yourself with confident people, as their confidence can rub off on you! If you are having trouble with your confidence or self-esteem, talking to a mental health professional like a counselor or psychologist can really help. Set achievable goals and challenge yourself to accomplish them. Maybe you have financial, career, or personal goals that you have been wanting to achieve? Sit down and write a list of your goals. Then break each goal up into smaller, actionable steps that you can get started on. Keep your goals realistic and celebrate your successes! Remember that your goals can be as big or as little as you like. As long as you are realistic about how you will achieve them, that's all that matters!	Follow a skincare routine to help your skin glow. Stand up straight and tall to improve your posture. Wear clothes that emphasize your favorite features. Experiment with makeup to see if you like how it makes you look. Get a new hairstyle that you have always wanted to try. Drink1⁄2 US gal (1.9 L) of water every day to stay hydrated. Brush your teeth regularly to help your smile look its best. Eat a well-balanced diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables. Exercise regularly to keep yourself healthy. Say positive affirmations every day to help build good self-esteem. Surround yourself with positive people that support you. Use positive self-talk and practice being assertive to help your confidence grow. Set achievable goals and challenge yourself to accomplish them.
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Balsa-Wood-Bridge	How to Build a Balsa Wood Bridge	To build a balsa wood bridge, start by drawing the blueprints for your bridge to scale on a sheet of graph paper, using either a truss or arch design. Then, use your final drawing to trace the different pieces you'll need onto the balsa wood. Next, cut the pieces from the wood with a saw and arrange them on top of your drawing so you know where they all fit on the bridge. Once you've laid out your pieces, glue them together with wood glue to create both sides of the bridge. Let the sides dry for at least 30 minutes before joining them with the roadway and adding any lateral bracing.	Choose your materials. Before you begin the planning phase of building your bridge, you'll want to ensure that you have all the materials that you will need. You'll need balsa wood for your structure. Before you buy the wood sheets, estimate how large your bridge will be. With these dimensions, overestimate how much wood you'll need; it's best to have some extra. Balsa wood is affordable and strong. Look for a medium- to high-density balsa. If you can't find it in your local hobby store, order it online. For planning, you will need large-sized 1/8-inch graph paper, a pencil and eraser, and a ruler. To assemble your balsa bridge, you'll need sewing pins, a large piece of foam board, a wood cutter , parchment paper, and masking tape. Create a rough draft drawing of your bridge. You don't have to use graph paper for this draft. Draw both the side and top views of your bridge. Feel free to make as many rough drafts as you need to. There are several types of bridge construction. Think about what you want yours to look like. Most balsa bridges are types of truss bridges or arch bridges, as the wood lends itself well to this type of construction. Plus, these are two of the simpler types of bridges to engineer. Truss bridges are type of beam bridge supported by crossing posts above the bridge, and arch bridges are supported by large arches below the roadway of the bridge. Trusses have triangular frames of varying frequencies. Different types of bridges carry loads differently. When thinking about your design, you can build your own based on a type of bridge, e.g. truss or arch, or simply find a template for the type of bridge you want to build online and print this instead of using your drawings. Draw your final draft. After you finish your rough draft and decide what type of bridge to create, use it to make a scaled rough draft. Draw both the sides of your bridge with the trusses included to scale and the overhead view of your bridge. You want your drawing to be the actual size that you want your balsa bridge to be, not a scaled-down drawing. It's fine if it takes up the entire sheet of graph paper. On the side-view drawing, write in all the measurements for easier cutting. If you plan to enter your bridge into a competition, like the Science Olympiad, make sure you comply with any competition-specific regulations or dimensions. Spread your drawing out on the foam board. For this, you want to use your drawing showing the side of your balsa bridge. This will be your guide for piecing your bridge together. Use pieces of masking tape to tack down the drawing of the side of your bridge. Cut a piece of sheer parchment paper larger than the foam board. Tuck its edges around the back of the board and tape them. The parchment paper keeps glue off of your drawing and allows you to use it to create both sides of your bridge. Cut your balsa wood strips. You can use the measurements on your drawings or just use the drawings as a template to mark each measurement with a pencil. Cutting your own strips from sheets will save you money. Use your woodcutter in conjunction with a straight edge. Make sure to account for all the pieces you'll need: truss pieces, lateral bracing, and the roadway. Organize your materials. After you've cut all your pieces, organize them into piles based on which part of your bridge they represent. Make two piles for your sides, separate your lateral bracing pieces, and set aside your roadway. Put together each side. Use the drawing you've created, and lay each strip of wood where it needs to be on the drawing. To keep pieces secure while you lay them out, stick two sewing pins into the foam board at each joint. Cross them over the wood to secure it. After you've completely laid out one side, remove the pins one joint at a time, and glue the strips of wood together with wood glue. Use the wood glue sparingly. If you want to, you can dilute it slightly with water. As a rule of thumb, if you can see the glue, you've put on too much. The glue will dry in about half an hour. Just before this point, you should take a damp rag, and wipe off any excess glue. If you have the time, it's best to leave this side to dry for an additional day or two. After that, remove it from your foam board template, and repeat the process for the other side of the bridge. Glue the two sides to the roadway. Before you start to glue, pin your roadway to the foam board. Put a thin line of glue on each edge of the roadway. Push your sides against the roadway. Use straight pins around the edges of the sides to keep them in place while the bridge dries. Add your lateral bracing. The lateral bracings of the bridge are the cross sections, often forming “X”s, on top of the trusses. While your bridge is still supported by pins around its sides, glue on your lateral braces. If you need to, you can use clothespins as tiny clamps. Again, let your bridge dry for as long as possible. Remove your bridge from the foam board. Now, your bridge is ready for your class or competition. If you're testing it with weights, make sure you do wait a full two days for the glue to cure.	Choose your materials. Create a rough draft drawing of your bridge. Draw your final draft. Spread your drawing out on the foam board. Cut your balsa wood strips. Organize your materials. Put together each side. Glue the two sides to the roadway. Add your lateral bracing. Remove your bridge from the foam board.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Rose-Tea	How to Make Rose Tea	Rose tea is a light and fragrant drink that's perfect for any time of day. If you're using fresh rose petals, place 1 or 2 into a saucepan with 3 cups of water and boil it for 5 minutes. Then, strain the tea and pour it into cups. You can also make green rose tea. Just mix equal parts rose leaves and green powder tea and make the tea the same way.	Select pesticide-free petals. You'll need a good amount, at least 1 cup and preferably 2 cups. Clean the petals in a colander placed under running water. Place the 1 to 2 cups rose petals in a saucepan filled with 3 cups of water. Boil for five minutes. Then strain and pour into cups or mugs. Sweeten with honey or enjoy as it is. Dry the rose petals. If you are not buying dried rose petals from a tea store, make your own. You will need to be certain that the variety of rose petals you grow are sweet tasting rather than bitter. If unsure, ask your local horticultural specialists for advice. Pick the rose petals and make sure they are free of dew. Half fill the net bag and close with an elastic. Hang the bag in a warm, dry and dark place to dry. This will take anywhere from a few days to a week, depending on the humidity of your environment. Make the tea. Once the petals have dried, you can prepare the tea. Combine equal parts rose leaves and equal parts green powder tea. Store in an airtight, opaque container suitable for tea. Make a cup of tea following the instructions for the green powder tea. Add honey to sweeten if desired. Select a quality black tea of your liking. The roses will scent it but it must be a good tea to begin with, so that you enjoy the blend. You could also choose oolong tea, a blend of black and green, with their lovely, rich and fruity flavours. Place the tea leaves and rose petals into a large mixing bowl. Stir gently to combine. If wished, small dried rosebuds can be included for appearance. Ensure that these are organic too. Transfer the mixture to suitable airtight containers. Label and date so that you remember when it was made and when it should be used by. Leave for a few days for the rose petals to begin imparting a little flavour. Most of the flavour will come out with the hot water when the tea is made though, so there's no need to wait too long. Make the rose tea as for the instructions accompanying the black tea used as the base. The tea will be gently scented with the added rose petals.	Select pesticide-free petals. Place the 1 to 2 cups rose petals in a saucepan filled with 3 cups of water. Boil for five minutes. Sweeten with honey or enjoy as it is. Dry the rose petals. Make the tea. Store in an airtight, opaque container suitable for tea. Make a cup of tea following the instructions for the green powder tea. Select a quality black tea of your liking. Place the tea leaves and rose petals into a large mixing bowl. Transfer the mixture to suitable airtight containers. Leave for a few days for the rose petals to begin imparting a little flavour. Make the rose tea as for the instructions accompanying the black tea used as the base.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Blackjack	How to Play Blackjack	The goal of Blackjack is to have a hand that totals higher than the dealer's, but doesn't total to higher than 21. If your hand totals higher than 21, it is called a “bust”, which means you are out of the game. The game starts with everyone besides the dealer placing a bet. Then, the dealer deals 1 card face up to each player and 1 card face up to themselves. Everyone is dealt one more face-up card besides the dealer, whose second card is dealt face down. Cards 2 through 10 are scored using their face value, and Jacks, Queens, and Kings are all equal to 10. Aces can be either 1 or 10, and you can choose their value throughout the round if you have one. If your two face-up cards total 21, you automatically win one and a half times your bet from the dealer, and you're done for that round. Otherwise, the dealer asks whether you want another card from the top of the deck. If you do, say “hit” or motion toward yourself with your hand. There's no limit to how many cards you can ask for, but once your hand totals higher than 21, you bust and the dealer gets your bet. If you don't want any more cards, say “stay” or wave your hand over the table. Once the dealer has gone around the table, they flip up their face-down card. If it's 16 or under, they have to take another card. If it's 17 or higher, they have to stay with their hand. If the dealer busts, every player that's still in that round wins twice their bet. However, if the dealer doesn't bust, only the players whose hands are higher than the dealer's win twice their bet. Everyone else loses their initial bet. Once the round is over, all of the players place a new bet, and another round begins.	Learn the value of the cards. In Blackjack, each card has a value that remains constant throughout the game. The goal is to beat the dealer and also not bust with a 22 or more. Here are their values: Number cards : The number is the value of the card. Face cards : The value of face cards is 10. Ace : Either 1 or 11. It is counted as 11 (...generally) unless it would put you over 21, in which case it counts as 1. Therefore, an ace and a ten card are 21 in two cards, which is Blackjack/Natural. A hand containing an ace is called "soft" hand. Learn your choices: There are two basic options when it's your turn: Hit : Get another card. You are able to hit until you go over 21. Stand : Keep your current cards and do nothing. You do not receive more cards. There are also a few extra possibilities you can use for certain hands: Taking insurance : This is only available when the dealer is showing an ace. You place a new bet that will then pay at 2-1 if the dealer does indeed have a blackjack. You lose your other bet (which would pay 1-1) but win the insurance, resulting in breaking even. Double Down : You double your bet, and get only one more card. This is generally only used when your initial two cards equal 8-11 or soft 12 to soft 19. Split : Make two hands from one hand, if both cards are the same value. Tens, Jacks, Queens, and Kings are usually counted as 10 each. If both of your hands win, you get double the amount of money. If only one wins, you break even. If both hands lose, you lose double the money. Split the hands by separating the cards and placing a duplicate bet. Surrender : In many casinos, you can (before playing and after determining if the dealer has a blackjack) choose to give up half of your bet without playing. Surrender is only desirable when the dealer is showing a 9-A, and the player has a 5-7 or 12-16. When the dealer has an ace, he or she automatically checks to see if a blackjack is had. Early surrender is when you opt out of half your bet before the dealer checks for a blackjack on his/her behalf. Start winning. In order to win, the player has to be closer to 21 than the dealer, without going over. If the player goes over, he has "busted." If it's a tie, it's a "push" -- neither the player nor the house wins. A blackjack is when your starting hand is an ace and 10, or face card. The dealer will go around the players until each one decides to stand. He then plays his own hand, which determines the outcome of the game. Obviously, each hand is different. Generally, players using copy the dealer hit on 16 or less. This is a bad strategy. The never bust strategy is a little better, but it is still a bad strategy. The casino's greatest advantage (the "house edge") is that the player has to act first. If a player "busts" (goes over 21), the casino immediately takes the player's money. If the casino then "busts" on the same hand, the player still loses. The dealer is the last one to play the hand. Understand the "House rules. " Most casinos always "stand" on 17 and greater. Some will "hit" a "soft 17" (any 6 and an ace). Some casinos (though rarely) require an "ante" like in poker (play in those casinos favors the house as much as 20%). You'll quickly gather your casino's rules when you sit down to play. Casinos have varying rules on insurance, splitting, and doubling down when it comes to how and when you can do it. Your dealer will surely let you know it if comes to this. For example, some casinos won't let you split a third Ace; for surrendering, some abide by early or late surrender only. Recognize the implications of insurance, splitting, doubling down and surrender. All of the extra actions favor the house when used incorrectly -- it wouldn't be a casino game if the opposite were true! When making an insurance bet, you are betting that the dealer's hole card is a 10, Jack, Queen or King. There are 13 potential ranks of cards in the deck. You have less than a 1 and 3 chance of it paying. The best time to make an insurance bet is when the count is (whatever you found it to be.) If the dealer turns out to have a blackjack, you will have a "push" (tie) with the dealer; your insurance bet will pay 2-1 which pays better than the original bet of 3-2! When doubling down, you only get one card. You may not like the hand you end up with. In fact, that is what the casino is counting on! Never double down if the dealer is an ace or a face card (unless you have 11). Splitting can turn an excellent hand into a terrible one, and vice versa. Here are some rules of thumb: Never split 5's -- your total is 10; you are likely to end strong. Always split 8's and Aces. Splitting 8's will change probable losers to probable winners. Splitting Aces is advantageous, but understand this: You are only allowed to split Aces once (sometimes), and you can only take one card for each new hand (sometimes.) Some casinos did this because splitting Aces, without any restriction, is a great advantage. Once you have "surrendered" your hand, the dealer's actions are unimportant (to you). If the dealer's hand goes sour, you have already given up. Understand card counting. You're not literally counting the value of all the cards. What some players do (when they're really good) is count the "value" of the deck, or, more specifically, how many aces and tens are left to be played (or this and that.) If lots are still to be seen, they up their bets, knowing the likelihood of them getting a good hand is better. Casinos have caught onto this however, and most now use multiple decks in the shoe or cut the deck or both. With six decks in play and more cards taken out, it's not likely with low penetration to track the number of good cards in the deck. Because of this, card counting will not be outlined here. Refer to wikiHow's card counting page if you're interested in the details. Grab a seat at an open table. When the hand is over (if you're not alone at the table), whip out your stack of money and tell the dealer what denomination of chips you'd like. (S)He will take your money and exchange it for a pile of chips. Then, you place your bet in the betting box and away you go! If you're a newbie to the blackjack game, you may want to avoid the seat on the far left of the table (third base.) Since this is the spot that comes right before the dealer, you're likely to get a lot of heat if you're the reason the dealer turns up a 5, or any good card for themselves, though you may be congratulated if you make the dealer bust. Though obviously not logical, no one said humans, and gamblers especially, ever were. Start using your hands. At a casino's blackjack table, being mute would go entirely unnoticed. You don't need a single word to play the game. In fact, you'd blend into the crowd more if you never opened your mouth. For hitting, either tap the table with a finger or two or scrape the table with the edge of your cards. For standing, place your chips on top of your cards, face down or wave your hand palm down horizontally over your cards. For splitting, add another bet and point 2 fingers. For doubling down, add another bet to your betting box and point 1 finger. Assume the dealer has a ten. When it comes down to it, that card facing down has better odds of being a ten (or worth 10) than any other value. If he or she is showing a 6 or lower, the idea is they'll bust. That's the basic strategy. You should take into account both your cards and their cards. If you have sixteen and the dealer is showing a six, stand. They have to take a card unless the have an A. But if you have sixteen and the dealer is showing a 7...well, that decision is up to you. If you're alone at a table or with a friendly group, people and/or the dealer will probably be happy to give you advice if you ask. Know when to walk away. Just like in poker, blackjack has hot and cold tables. It doesn't take a pro to be able to recognize this -- you'll know when you're running out of chips! If you're observant, you'll probably be able to tell which table is running hot just by watching. A good rule of thumb is to up your bet in increments. If you win two $5 bets and then lose a $10 bet, you're still even! When your winning streak stops, resume your initial minimum bet until the table goes hot again. Basic rules of thumb are to always stand hard 17 and over, never stand a soft 17, double soft hands A,2 and A,3 vs 5-6, A,4 and A,5 vs 4-6, and A,6 and A,7 vs 3-6.	Learn the value of the cards. Learn your choices: Start winning. Understand the "House rules. Recognize the implications of insurance, splitting, doubling down and surrender. Understand card counting. Grab a seat at an open table. Start using your hands. Assume the dealer has a ten. Know when to walk away. Basic rules of thumb are to always stand hard 17 and over, never stand a soft 17, double soft hands A,2 and A,3 vs 5-6, A,4 and A,5 vs 4-6, and A,6 and A,7 vs 3-6.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Jowar-Roti	How to Make Jowar Roti	To make jowar roti, first make the dough by mixing a cup of jowar flour and a few pinches of salt with a cup of hot water. Next, let the hot dough cool for a few minutes before kneading and rolling it into small balls. Then, flatten out the dough balls and sprinkle some more jowar flour over them. To cook, place the roti in a frying pan on medium heat and sprinkle it with a bit of water, flipping before the dough dries all the way out.	Mix 1 cup of jowar flour with 2 to 3 pinches of salt in a bowl or a large plate with a rim. Use a spoon to thoroughly mix the flour and salt. Jowar rotis can be made without salt as well, depending upon your preference. Add 125 millilitres (4.2 fl oz) of water to the bowl. Use a spoon again to mix the water with the jowar flour. If you are not using hot water, you can knead it all together with your hands so that you can feel the firmness of the dough better. Add the remaining 65 millilitres (2.2 fl oz) of water and mix. It's up to you how much more water you add after this. It will depend on the type and consistency of the flour, as well as how fine or coarse it is. Let the dough cool for a few minutes. It may be too hot to knead from all the hot water that you've added to the mixture, so give it some cooling time. Knead the dough. Once the dough has cooled to a temperature you can handle, knead it thoroughly and rigorously. If the dough feels too sticky or too pasty, add some more jowar flour to the mix. When you're finished kneading, cover the dough and put it to one side until it cools to room temperature. Jowar flour is very fine, like talc, even while kneading. It's not like all purpose or wheat flour, which require great effort to make a soft dough. Your kneading could be done in about 5-10 minutes. You may add tap water as you knead it, a little at a time. This way you avoid adding too much water. A perfect, finished dough leaves no flour residue on your palms when you're done kneading it. Make small to medium-sized rolls of the dough. After the dough has cooled to room temperature, remove the cover. Then start rolling the dough into small or medium balls. You can even make one large roti with the same amount of dough, if desired. Flatten a ball and place it on the rolling board. Sprinkle some jowar flour (about 2 teaspoons) on the board to reduce friction and prevent sticking. Add some more flour to the top of the flattened dough. This is optional if you are flattening it with your hands; just wet your fingers as you flatten it. Lightly press and turn the dough. Use the palms of your hands to press down on the roti and flatten it out. Add more flour if it's needed. These rotis can be rolled keeping them on one side, without flipping it like you would with wheat bread flour. Make sure that the roti is rolled evenly and is not thick at the ends or center. Gently lift the roti from the rolling board. Use a spatula to ensure you don't tear or damage the dough. These rotis can be made as thin as 2-3 mm or as thick as 3-4mm. This flour is very delicate, unlike sticky wheat dough. Touch the ends with your fingertips and lift where you feel the dough is strong enough. Then very quickly lift the entire roti and flip it on the pan. Place the dough on a preheated medium hot frying pan. Lay the dough on the pan so that the floured side (the underside while rolling) is facing upwards. Sprinkle a spoonful of water over the roti. Use your fingers to spread the water evenly all over the dough. Use another spoonful of water as needed. Try to cover every area of the roti. If the pan is too hot, it'll be difficult to spread the water out. Keep the flame low at first. Use a spatula or a spoon if you are not comfortable doing it with your hands. The water helps the dry flour mix in with the dough. If there are some leftover traces of the dry flour, don't worry. Once this is done, you can turn the flame a bit higher. Keep the water handy. Flip the roti once the base has lightly cooked. Do this when the roti is still a little moist. Lift it gently, just like you lifted it carefully after rolling it, to avoid breaking. If you wait for it to dry out completely, you will find that the finished roti is wrinkly. Keep moving and rotating the roti on the pan so it cooks evenly. If it's stuck on the pan, wait for it to cook more; once the wetness is reduced, it should be movable. If it is still stuck to the pan a little, just reduce the flame and use a spatula to scrape the edge of it. Once the roti is flipped, you can increase the flame again. You can also lift it just enough to see if the lower side has light brown marks on it. Do not wait until it blackens; reduce the flame if you do see any burned or blacked parts. Lift the roti from the frying pan with a spatula or pair of tongs. Try to not squeeze too hard on the roti, but keep a firm grip so you don't drop it. If the roti still tears, don't worry; it will still taste just as good in pieces! Remove the pan from the flame and replace it with the roti. Heating the roti directly over the stovetop allows the dough to rise and puff up. After a minute or so, you should be able to see the dough rising. You may skip this step if you are not very confident. If you do it, make sure you keep an eye on the flame to make sure the dough or flour doesn't stick or ignite. Flip the roti and lay the other side on the flame. After a couple of minutes, you should be able to see burned spots start to develop on the roti. When you see this, remove it from the flame and place it in a bowl. Serve the roti. You can serve the Jowar roti warm or hot. You can use some ghee or white butter to add some extra flavor to the jowar roti. Cover the roti only once they're cool. If you are not eating them right away or need to store the remaining rotis, allow them to sit in the open until they cool. If the roti is put on a plate and is covered instantly, it may become soggy. So place your roti on a bowl or a cup so the roti is touching only the rim, and the steam can escape. Do cover it once it has come down to room temperature or it may harden.	Mix 1 cup of jowar flour with 2 to 3 pinches of salt in a bowl or a large plate with a rim. Add 125 millilitres (4.2 fl oz) of water to the bowl. Add the remaining 65 millilitres (2.2 fl oz) of water and mix. Let the dough cool for a few minutes. Knead the dough. Make small to medium-sized rolls of the dough. Flatten a ball and place it on the rolling board. Lightly press and turn the dough. Gently lift the roti from the rolling board. Place the dough on a preheated medium hot frying pan. Sprinkle a spoonful of water over the roti. Flip the roti once the base has lightly cooked. Lift the roti from the frying pan with a spatula or pair of tongs. Remove the pan from the flame and replace it with the roti. Flip the roti and lay the other side on the flame. Serve the roti. Cover the roti only once they're cool.
https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Connect-4	How to Play Connect 4	To play Connect 4, try to get 4 of your color checkers in a row horizontally, vertically, or diagonally before your opponent. When it's your turn, drop one of your checkers into one of the slots at the top of the plastic grid. Then, let your opponent take their turn. Remember to think carefully about where you're placing your checkers so you can block your opponent from getting 4 in a row. Keep taking turns dropping checkers into the grid until someone wins!	Assemble the board. There are several different types of Connect Four boards, but all come with a grid that hold the checkers and some type of stand that holds the grid. The traditional set-up features two end supports with slots for hooks on each side of the grid to snap into. Once the end supports are attached, place the board on a flat surface, and close the sliding lever at the bottom of the grid so that there are bars to prevent the checkers from falling through. When attaching the end supports to the the grid, make sure that the notched edge of the end support is facing the grid. Some versions of Connect Four, such as the Pop Out Connect Four and Connect Four On the Run travel game, feature a round game base with slots on each side for tabs on the bottom of the grid to snap into. When you're ready to play, place the board between you and your opponent so you're each on one side of it. Sort and choose checker colors. Connect Four comes with 21 red checkers and 21 black checkers. Before you begin playing, separate the checkers into piles based on their color. Next, you must decide who will play each color. Whatever color you choose, take that pile of checkers. Your opponent takes the other pile. If you and your opponent both can't agree on who should play which color, you may want to put a checker in each color in a hat, bag, or other container that you can't see into. Then whatever color you or your opponent pulls out is the checker shade that you'll play. Decide who will go first. During the course of play, you and your opponent will alternate turns after making a move with a checker. The player who goes first typically has an advantage in the game, so to be fair, you should take turns going first. If you can't agree on who goes first, you may want to flip a coin to avoid an argument. Understand the object of the game. Before you can start playing Connect Four or planning a strategy, you must make sure that you understand the object of the game. In order to win, a player must get four checkers in their color in a row. Whoever does it first is the winner. There are three ways to get four checkers in a row in Connect Four: horizontally, vertically, and diagonally. Some versions of Connect Four have an additional game where you attach an extra column to the grid and attempt to get five checkers in row. Make a move. When it's your turn to make a move in Connect Four, you take a checker and drop it down one of the slots at the top of the grid. Standard boards have have seven columns and six rows to choose from. On your first move, you will typically wind up placing your checker in the bottom row, but you can choose any of the columns, depending on your strategy. You want to choose each move carefully because your opponent will have a turn after you. Not only do they have a chance to thwart your strategy for four in row, your move can sometimes make it easier for them to get four of their checkers in a row. React to your opponent’s move. After you make a move with your checker, your opponent gets a chance to go. As you plan each of your moves, try to imagine how your opponent will respond. That allows you to react to their moves quickly and decisively. Before you drop a checker into the grid, ask yourself what you would do next if your opponent had made the move that you're about to. If you have the first turn in the game, your opponent will probably be responding to your moves and attempting to block you from getting four checkers in row. If you have the second turn of the game, you'll likely be on the defensive, trying to keep your opponent from getting their checkers in row. Select the middle column for a first move. If you are the first player to go in a game of Connect Four, your initial move can actually dictate the entire game. When you're opening the game, the best move is to place your checker in the center column. By placing your checker in that slot, you made it much more difficult for your opponent to counter your moves so your chances of winning increase. Placing the first checker in the middle column doesn't guarantee a win. You still have to avoid making mistakes along the way. If you choose a column other than the middle for your first move, it becomes easier for your opponent to force a tie. Choose another bottom row slot with the second move. When you have the second move of the again, you're on the defensive so it's more difficult to win. If your opponent places their checker in the center column to open the game, don't place yours in the same column so it's on top of their checker. That doesn't give you any strategic advantage. Instead, your best bet is to place your checker in the bottom row in one of the other columns and hope that your opponent makes a mistake. If your opponent doesn't place their checker in the center column with the first move of the game, that should be your initial move when it's your turn because the space offers the best advantage in the game. Use a game solver tool. If you're having trouble defeating opponents, you may want to consult a game solving tool. The game solver allows you to input your opponent's moves and then provides winning moves that you can counter with so you're guaranteed a victory. Most opponents won't appreciate you consulting a tool like this on your smartphone or tablet while you're playing, so try practicing with the game solver to help you start identifying winning moves that you can use in actual game play. There are several websites, such as Connect Four Solver, that offer these types of game solving tools.	Assemble the board. Sort and choose checker colors. Decide who will go first. Understand the object of the game. Make a move. React to your opponent’s move. Select the middle column for a first move. Choose another bottom row slot with the second move. Use a game solver tool.
https://www.wikihow.com/Spot-Vitamin-A-Deficiency-in-an-Amazon-Parrot	How to Spot Vitamin A Deficiency in an Amazon Parrot	To find out if your Amazon parrot has a vitamin A deficiency, look for cold-like symptoms, such as sneezing, wheezing, and nasal discharge. Also be on the lookout for swelling, discharge, or white spots around the eyes. Another common symptom to check for is small white spots on the roof of the mouth or at the base of the tongue, which may turn into sores or abscesses. Additionally, check to see if your bird has difficulty breathing or swallowing, a slimy mouth, or bad-smelling breath.	Notice any cold-like symptoms. An Amazon parrot with vitamin A deficiency often appears as if it has a cold. It may seem lethargic, and it will probably have a plethora of respiratory symptoms that mimic the common cold. This includes things like sneezing, wheezing, crusty nostrils, or runny nose/nasal discharge. It's possible that these symptoms could also be caused by a bacterial infection of the upper respiratory tract. But this condition also needs to treated by a veterinarian. Monitor eyes that are swollen or have discharge. If you notice that your parrot's eyes seem swollen or have any type of discharge being excreted, contact your veterinarian immediately. This is most likely a symptom of vitamin A deficiency. There may also be white spots present around the bird's eyes. While eye issues such as these could be indicative of other problems (like conjunctivitis or respiratory problems), you should still take your bird to the vet for a checkup. Look for white spots inside the bird’s mouth. One of the biggest tell-tale signs of vitamin A deficiency can be observed by inspecting the parrot's mouth. A vitamin A deficient parrot will have small white plaques (spots) on the roof of its mouth, or at the base of its tongue. These plaques eventually become infected, and cause large abscesses that can block the opening of the windpipe and cause labored breathing. These symptoms are typically a red flag that your bird definitely has a vitamin A deficiency. The bird's mouth may also seem slimy, or have very foul-smelling breath. Additionally, the bird may have trouble swallowing or refuse to eat. Be wary of depression or lethargy. Depression and lethargy are some of the biggest behavioral indicators that there is something wrong with your bird. If your Amazon parrot seems to have less energy or seems to sleep all the time, this may be a cause for concern – especially if these symptoms are paired with some of the other symptoms relating to vitamin A deficiency. You should also monitor your bird's behavior to see if it refuses to fly, seems to play with its toys less than usual, or prefers to stay inside its cage rather than interacting with its owners. Watch for diarrhea. Vitamin A deficiency is a serious condition that can wreak havoc on a bird's digestive track. Because of this, diarrhea is often a common side effect. Monitor your parrot's droppings to see whether the “firm” portion of the excretion is present or not. If the droppings are all liquid, or the feces part seems more like pudding, then your bird has diarrhea. Remember that part of a bird's poop is always liquid – this is the “urine” part of their droppings. Diarrhea depends on the solidity of the “feces” part of the droppings. Notice any lack of appetite or weight loss. If your bird seems to be eating less, or has started suddenly losing weight, it may be affected by vitamin A deficiency. This is especially true if it is paired with other symptoms of this type of deficiency. The bird may also start gagging more frequently, especially when trying to eat. Consult your veterinarian. If you are worried that your Amazon parrot has a vitamin A deficiency, you should contact your veterinarian's office (or an avian specialist) immediately. Make an appointment to bring your bird in for an examination. Depending on the severity of your parrot's deficiency, your veterinarian may decide to hospitalize the bird, use an incubator or nebulizer, or even feed the bird through a tube and give it injections. Give your bird a vitamin A supplement. In order to regulate your parrot's vitamin A deficiency, you may want to consider giving it a supplement. You should be able to purchase vitamin A supplements for birds at your local pet store. Simply add a few drops of the vitamin A to the bird's food. You may need to puncture a capsule to access the supplement. There is also a powder form of the supplement that you can sprinkle on top of the bird's food. Only use a vitamin A supplement under the direction of your vet. You should always consult with your vet when providing supplements to your bird. Feed your bird plenty of fruits and veggies. Treating and preventing vitamin A deficiency depends largely on feeding your parrot fresh fruits and vegetables every day, especially those that have a high vitamin A content in the proper amounts. Typically, seed/pellet food should make up about 75% of your bird's daily diet, while the remainder is comprised of fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Fruits and vegetables that are particularly high in vitamin A content include carrots, broccoli, apricots, mango, papaya, nectarines, peaches, sweet potatoes, yellow squash, cantaloupe, spinach, red chili peppers, and turnip greens. Some fruits and vegetables that are particularly low in vitamin A content include apples, corn, bananas, lettuce, grapes, oranges, white potatoes, and summer squash.	Notice any cold-like symptoms. Monitor eyes that are swollen or have discharge. Look for white spots inside the bird’s mouth. Be wary of depression or lethargy. Watch for diarrhea. Notice any lack of appetite or weight loss. Consult your veterinarian. Give your bird a vitamin A supplement. Feed your bird plenty of fruits and veggies.
https://www.wikihow.com/Promote-Your-Business	How to Promote Your Business	To promote your business, create a brand name and a logo that accurately represent your business. You can design your logo yourself or you can hire a graphic designer if you're not artistic. Use your brand name and logo on your business cards, signs, and advertising materials, and display it prominently in your shop or office. Once you have clients coming to you, focus on building relationships with them to encourage customer loyalty.	Create a brand image, or logo. Widespread brand recognition is your goal, as it will give your business credibility and inspire others to spread the word about your business. Grow your brand by placing your logo in your business stationary, business cards, email signatures, brochures, signs, website and merchandising materials. Network. Meeting professionals from other, related businesses is an effective form of business promotion, as it provides you with opportunities to learn about your competitors, ask for referrals, form mutually beneficial partnerships in complementary industries and spread awareness about your business throughout a group of like-minded people. Network with other professionals in the following ways: Attend networking group meetings. You can find networking groups and clubs on the Internet, in newspapers and in trade publications. Introduce yourself to people at the meetings. Explain what it is your business does, what you offer that makes you stand out from your competition and what you are looking for in business relationships. Ask relevant questions during group discussions. In addition to promoting your business, you can learn a lot at networking meetings. Additionally, asking open-ended questions encourages others to participate in the conversation, and sets you up for more introductions. Hand out your business cards. Set up private meetings with those who express an interest in getting to know more about your business. Advertise. Consider these methods for advertising your business: Signs. You may opt for storefront signs, billboards, marquee boards or street-side yard signs. Print. Place print ads in magazines, newspapers, coupon books, trade journals and industry magazines. Choose print mediums that are suited to your business. For example, if you run a technology parts recycling warehouse, then you may consider placing ads in computer classifieds and technology magazines. Commercials. Television and radio commercials are effective ways to promote your business to a broad audience, but they are relatively costly forms of advertising. Advertisements. You may opt to pass out promotional materials at trade shows, at store fronts, in parking lots or in any other highly-populated areas. Some businesses, like nightclubs and entertainment venues, hire street crews to hand out advertisements and attract new customers. Direct mail. You may purchase mailing lists targeted to your segment of the consumer market, then mail out letters, brochures, catalogs or postcards. This method is effective when you want to provide potential customers with paper coupons, vouchers, business cards or promotional merchandising. Public relations (PR) firms. You may hire a PR firm to create publicity for you in the form of news write-ups and press releases. Internet. Promoting a business online involves setting up a business website, participating in industry/trade forum discussions, running a blog , setting up accounts on social networking sites, using pay-per-click and banner ads, listing your business information in business directories and employing search engine optimization (SEO) techniques. Every business, regardless of its size or scope, could benefit from Internet marketing, and many Internet marketing mediums are free to use. AR Advertising. Short for Augmented Reality Advertising. It enriches the user experience by bringing life to the prints, when it's enhanced with extra layer called a digital layer. Build business partnerships with other organizations. In effect, piggyback off the success of another business. Taco Bell has recently unveiled the Doritos Locos Taco, which is a branding coup for both Taco Bell and Doritos. Whenever you think of one brand, the other brand comes to mind, and vice versa. Business partnerships can be very effective advertising tools. Note : it's tough to build a business partnership with an established company when your company isn't yet established. Businesses understand the value (or lack of value) you're giving them, and may want something in return or simple avoid business with you in the first place. Rely on the power of social networks. Social networks have become the new darling of advertising because much of the legwork is being done by dedicated fans, for free. You could pay someone to advertise for you, or you could establish a social community of fans who advertise by word of mouth, at little or no cost. What's it going to be? Try harnessing the power of viral media campaigns. Dollar Shave Club did very good business for itself simply by making a (funny, exciting, relatable) music video. It took off on social networks and now has over a million combined subscribers and followers on Facebook and Google+. Offer freebies. Pass out merchandise with your company's name and/or logo on it so everyone you meet at networking events, trade shows, client meetings and even personal social gatherings. Things like pens, magnets and calendars are good merchandising ideas, as these tend to stay in use, and within view, for extensive periods of time. Develop relationships with your customers. Customers are people — not numbers — and it is important that you put consideration and effort into building personal relationships with them. For example, when you send out Christmas cards each year, you not only gain customer loyalty but you also inspire customers to promote your business to the people they know. Encourage customers to talk about their experience using your business. There is no tool more powerful than people talking with their family members or friends about your product or the quality of your work. If your customers are fully satisfied then you should ask them to refer you or your product to their family or friends. It is important to realise that your customers may not do so automatically and sometime a little poke requesting them to refer your business may work wonders. Go ahead, be bold and ask for more work.	Create a brand image, or logo. Network. Advertise. Build business partnerships with other organizations. Rely on the power of social networks. Offer freebies. Develop relationships with your customers. Encourage customers to talk about their experience using your business.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Wood-Pellets	How to Make Wood Pellets	Wood pellets can be used for a variety of purposes, like fuel and bedding for animals. If you have machinery, like a wood chipper, flat die pellet mill, and a batch mixer, you can make wood pellets from logs, wood chips, or sawdust. If you're using wood, first you'll need to use your wood chipper and hammer mill to reduce the pieces to no larger than 0.2 inches. Leave the wood to dry in the sun for 24 hours. Then, sieve the wood particles to remove contaminants and mix it in your batch mixer. You'll then need to run the material through a flat die pellet mill or pellet press with a die and roller. Once you've pressed the pellets, leave them to cool for 24 hours.	Gather raw materials, like logs, wood chips, or sawdust. If you're making a small batch of wood pellets, you should only need a 8-10 logs or 4-5 buckets of sawdust. If you're going to make more than 10 to 20 pounds (4.5 to 9.1 kg) of pellets, plan to order scrap wood from a local lumber yard or saw mill. To order logs or wood from a scrap yard or saw mill, expect to buy at least 1 ton of product and pay for shipment to your location, which can be expensive. Remember to order your materials in advance if you won't be gathering them yourself, since the demand for sawdust and wood is very high. Many people who make smaller batches of pellets also order excess raw plant material from local farmers to use in their wood pellets. This includes items like branches or the stalks and leaves of dead plants. Chip the wood into pieces that are 2.5 cm (0.98 in) or smaller. Turn on the wood chipper by activating the ignition, and carefully feed the branches, logs, or other materials into the mouth of the chipper. Set a container at the opposite end of the chipper to catch the wood chips as they shoot out of the machine. Some wood chippers won't let you choose the size that you want the chips to be. In that case, you may have to run the wood through the chipper 2 times to make it as small as you can. If you're using pre-processed sawdust, you won't be able to make the pieces smaller, so you can skip this step. Use a hammer mill to reduce the size of the pieces to 5 mm (0.20 in). The hammer mill grinds and chops the smaller pieces into very small particles for making pellets. Turn the hammer mill on and slowly pour the wood chips into the mouth of the machine. Place a container under the mill to catch the small particles as they come out of the machine. If you don't have a hammer mill, you may be able to rent one from a local saw mill or lumber yard. This step isn't necessary if you're starting with sawdust, since it's already milled and refined to small pieces. Dry the wood until the moisture level is between 10-20%. For a small batch of pellets, leave the wood in the sun for at least 24 hours to dry naturally. If there's wind, cover them with a mesh screen to hold them in place. For a larger batch, place the wood pieces in an industrial dryer or drum heater until the pieces are dried to the desired moisture level. You can test the moisture level of the wood using a moisture meter, which you can purchase at most agriculture stores or online. In most cases, you don't have to dry sawdust. However, if your sawdust has been stored in a moist environment or feels wet to the touch, spread it out on a flat surface in a dry room for 24 hours to dry the dust. Run the raw materials through a sieve to remove contaminants. If you're making a large batch of pellets and there's a chance that the wood particles might contain stone or metal, carefully pour the raw material into the sieve. Wait while the sieve uses magnets and strainers to remove extra particles, and collect the raw materials at the output area of the machine. If metal or stone particles do get into an industrial mill, they can cause clogs or backups in the machinery. This step isn't necessary for small batches of pellets since they won't be placed in an industrial mill. Add vegetable oil to help the materials stick together in a small batch. If you're making a small batch of pellets, add 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of vegetable oil for every 1 pound (0.45 kg) of wood pieces before mixing them. This will help the pieces bind together as they're mixed without adding harmful chemicals to the pellets. There won't be a major difference in the texture of the wood material, since the vegetable oil is absorbed quickly. Don't add too much vegetable oil at first, since it's easier to add more later if necessary. If you're working with more than 10 to 20 pounds (4.5 to 9.1 kg) of raw material, you don't need a binding agent to make the pellets. With a large amount of wood, vegetable oil and other additives are easily absorbed by the wood and aren't effective because the pressure and heat used in industrial processing will be enough to make the pellets stick together without the oil. Pour the dried wood into a batch mixer to make the material more consistent. Mixing the wood will ensure all of the wood pieces are uniform in density, moisture, and size. Make sure there is a rolling drum or an agitator in the batch mixer to thoroughly combine the pieces, and turn the mixer on. Pour the raw material into the mixer, wait for 10-20 minutes while the pieces mix, and then remove them from the mixer. For small batches, you can use a kitchen stand mixer to accomplish this. You can find stand mixers at most housewares stores. Pour the wood into the bowl, adding vegetable oil if you're using it, and attach a curved arm for mixing the material. Plug in the mixture and turn it on, letting it run for 10-20 minutes. If you're using sawdust, you don't have to mix the wood since it is already a fairly consistent size and shape. Transfer the material to a flat die pellet mill if you’re making a large batch. Industrial flat die mills press the pellets using heat and die casts. Activate the machine and then wait for the die in the mill to heat up to the optimum temperature, which varies depending on the machine. Then, pour the wood pieces into the machine to heat and press the wood into pellets. Most pellet mills operate at around a maximum of 170–190 °F (77–88 °C) to ensure the pressure in the machine stays constant for binding the pellets but prevents scorching or burning. Be sure to feed the wood into the machine slowly at first to prevent backup. Then, slowly add more wood to the machine as production ability increases. Use a pellet press that includes a die and roller to make smaller batches. The pellet press die is a metal piece with holes drilled through it. Sprinkle the wood pieces evenly over the die to prepare it. Then, move the roller across the die to press the wood through the holes into pieces the size of finished pellets. Don't worry about working quickly when you're using the die and roller. The process is slower and requires more effort, making it ideal for small batches. Separate deformed pellets from the batch using a sieve or screen. Some pieces will fall apart or break during the pressing process. Gather the pieces and shake or sift them through a special straining screen with holes that are the same size as the pellets to remove the ones that are misshapen. If you're making the pellets for your own personal use, you can leave misshapen pellets in with the regular ones to avoid producing waste. Allow the pellets to cool, making them rigid. When the pellets come out of the pellet press, they will be hot and moist. If you're making a small batch, spread them out on a flat area and allow them to cool and dry naturally for at least 24 hours. If you're making a lot of pellets at once, use an industrial freezer or cooler to lower the temperature of the wood, which should take about 1-2 hours. If you bag and store the pellets before they're cool and dry, they can become flattened. Pour the cooled pellets into resealable bags and keep them in a dry area. Bag the pellets and seal them in plastic or paper bags, making sure no air can enter them. Then, keep them in an area away from direct sunlight where the air is dry and cool. For a small batch, you can store the pellets in a garage or storage closet. For larger batches, use a temperature and humidity controlled warehouse to store the pellets.	Gather raw materials, like logs, wood chips, or sawdust. Chip the wood into pieces that are 2.5 cm (0.98 in) or smaller. Use a hammer mill to reduce the size of the pieces to 5 mm (0.20 in). Dry the wood until the moisture level is between 10-20%. Run the raw materials through a sieve to remove contaminants. Add vegetable oil to help the materials stick together in a small batch. Pour the dried wood into a batch mixer to make the material more consistent. Transfer the material to a flat die pellet mill if you’re making a large batch. Use a pellet press that includes a die and roller to make smaller batches. Separate deformed pellets from the batch using a sieve or screen. Allow the pellets to cool, making them rigid. Pour the cooled pellets into resealable bags and keep them in a dry area.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Brown-Sugar	How to Make Your Own Brown Sugar	To make your own brown sugar, pour 1 cup of granulated sugar into a mixing bowl, then add in 2 tablespoons of molasses to make light brown sugar, or up to 1/4 of a cup for dark brown sugar. Use a stand or electric mixer to combine the molasses and sugar until the mixture looks fluffy and golden brown. If you don't have a mixer, you can use a fork to combine the mixture instead.	Measure sugar and molasses into a mixing bowl. Pour 1 cup (200 g) of granulated sugar into a mixing bowl. Add molasses according to your taste or the type of brown sugar you want. For light brown sugar, use 2 tablespoons (40 g) of molasses. For dark brown sugar, you can use up to 1/4 cup (84 g) of molasses. Ensure that you're using true molasses, not blackstrap molasses. Blackstrap molasses is more refined, less sweet, and higher in sodium than true molasses. Combine the molasses and sugar in a mixer. For the best texture, use a stand or electric mixer to combine the molasses and sugar until the mixture looks fluffy and golden brown. This can take several minutes. You can also mix the brown sugar by combining the ingredients in a food processor. Consider mixing the molasses and sugar with a fork. If you don't have a mixer or just want to make a little brown sugar, you can put the molasses and sugar into a small bowl. Use a fork to combine the mixture until it becomes brown sugar. If you're baking with the brown sugar, you don't even need to combine the sugar and molasses; just add the ingredients to the recipe. For example, if you're making cookies that call for brown sugar, just add extra granulated sugar and the molasses along with the other ingredients. Double or triple the batch. If you want to make a large batch of brown sugar to use in several recipes, you can easily double or triple the ingredients. Use a large mixing bowl and electric or stand mixer to combine the brown sugar. Whisk the sugar and molasses for about 5 minutes. Use honey instead of brown sugar. If you don't have brown sugar or molasses on hand, consider using honey in place of the brown sugar in a recipe. To substitute honey, use 1/2 cup (170 g) to 3/4 cup (255 g) of honey for each 1 cup (200 g) of brown sugar called for and add 1/4 teaspoon of baking powder. You should also reduce the liquids in the recipe by 20% and turn down the oven temperature by 25 degrees. Avoid substituting honey in recipes that need you to cream butter with the brown sugar. Instead, use honey in soft-textured cake, ice cream, or pudding recipes. Substitute maple syrup for brown sugar. You can use maple syrup instead of brown sugar, but you'll need to reduce the liquid in the recipe by 1/2 cup (120 ml) for each 1 cup (240 ml) of maple syrup you use. Avoid using maple syrup in recipes where you need to cream butter with the sugar. Consider substituting maple syrup in pudding, candy, caramel, and ice cream recipes. If you have maple sugar, you can substitute equal amounts for the brown sugar and you won't need to reduce the liquid in a recipe. Try coconut or date sugar. If you have coconut or date sugar in your pantry, you can use it to replace brown sugar in a recipe. You can use it in caramels and candies, but it does melt 10 degrees lower than standard sugar. You can also bake with it although your baked goods may have a drier texture. If you want to add moisture, consider adding applesauce or mashed banana. Store the brown sugar in an airtight container. Put the brown sugar in an airtight container in your pantry. You can store the brown sugar at room temperature indefinitely, but it may harden over time as it dries out. If you don't have an airtight storage container, you can keep the brown sugar in a plastic food storage bag with a zipper. Soften brown sugar in the microwave. If you need to soften brown sugar quickly, put the lump of brown sugar into a microwave-safe bowl. Moisten a paper towel with water and lay it over the brown sugar. Microwave the brown sugar for 15 to 20 seconds and check to see if it's softened. If not, microwave it for another 15 to 20 seconds. If the brown sugar is so hard that it's hard to divide the lump into a bowl, add a few teaspoons of water to the sugar before you microwave it. Place a piece of bread with the brown sugar. You can also soften brown sugar by storing it with a piece of fresh bread for a few days. The moisture from the bread softens the sugar. Just be sure you remember to toss out the bread before too long because it will dry out. You could also place a slice or two of apple in the container to keep the brown sugar soft.	Measure sugar and molasses into a mixing bowl. Combine the molasses and sugar in a mixer. Consider mixing the molasses and sugar with a fork. Double or triple the batch. Use honey instead of brown sugar. Substitute maple syrup for brown sugar. Try coconut or date sugar. Store the brown sugar in an airtight container. Soften brown sugar in the microwave. Place a piece of bread with the brown sugar.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Mannequin	How to Make a Mannequin	To make a mannequin for your own sewing projects, start by putting on a fitted shirt you don't mind ruining. Next, you'll need to cover yourself with strips of duct tape from your neck to your waist to create a body double made of duct tape. Then, have someone cut the shirt off your body, seal the cut ends with a strip of duct tape, and stuff it with polyester stuffing. After that, tape cardboard pieces to cover the top and bottom of the mannequin and secure it to a metal stand.	Put on an old, fitted shirt you don't mind ruining. Make sure that the shirt conforms to your torso without too many wrinkles. Also, make sure that the shirt comes down to your hips. Don't wear a baggy t-shirt as it will create too much bulk. You won't be able to salvage this shirt. You will cover it with tape an cut it up. Cover your neck and collar area with plastic wrap. Tear off a sheet of plastic wrap and fold it until it's the same height as your neck. Gently wrap it around your neck. Tuck the two ends under the front color of your shirt so that no skin is showing. You will eventually be taping up your neck as well, so you need to protect the delicate skin there. If you don't have plastic wrap, you can use paper towels instead. Wrap a strip of duct tape around your torso, just under you breasts. Make sure that you wrap it firmly so that it conforms to your figure, but not so tightly that you can't breathe. If you are male, wrap the tape just under your pecks. You will need to have someone help you during this step, and for the rest of the steps in this part. Cross two pieces of tape across the front of your chest. Lay down one piece of tape so that it goes from your left shoulder down to the underside of your right breast. Lay down a second piece of tape so that it goes from your right shoulder down to the underside of your left breast. You should be left with an X-shape, with the center being between your breasts. Continue adding tape across the shoulders, breast, and back area. Lay down a strip of tape across your left shoulder. Bring one end down across your left breast towards the horizontal strip of tape. Bring the other end down across your back. Continue adding strips of tape until you reach the edge of your shoulder. Overlap each piece of tape by ½-inch (1.27 centimeters). Repeat this step for the right shoulder and breast. Fill in the gaps under your armpit. Tear off smaller strips of tape. Lift up your arms, and lay them down across your ribcage horizontally. Be sure to cover the gape between your armpit and the horizontal strip of tape. Again, overlap the strips by ½-inch (1.27 centimeters). Fill in the gaps on your back and chest. You should now have a V-shaped gape on your chest and back. Tear off more strips of tape, and lay them across your back and chest. If you have a low-cut shirt, make sure that your chest is covered by plastic wrap or paper towel. Wrap the tape around your neck. Wrap 1 to 2 strips of tape loosely around your neck. Use smaller strips to fill in any gaps showing through. Wrap more tape around your waist down to the bottom of the shirt. Keep wrapping the tape in rows, overlapping each one by about ½-inch (1.27 centimeters). Stop when you reach the bottom hem of your shirt. Cut up the back of your duct tape shirt. Have a person you trust help you cut down the back of your duct tape shirt, from bottom to top. Make sure that they cut through the duct tape, shirt, and plastic wrap layers. Take the shirt off. You should now have a body-double made out of duct tape. If anything became dented on the mannequin during this step, such as a beast, use your fingers to gently push it back out. Seal the gap with a strip of duct tape. Place the cut ends together so that they match up. Cover them with a strip of duct tape to seal the gap. For extra security, apply tape to both the inside and outside of the shirt. Touch up the top and bottom edges, if desired. Take a look at the top and bottom edges of the mannequin. If you are happy with them, leave them be. If they look ragged or jagged, touch them up with more tape. Consider cutting the top edge of the neck down at a slight, downward angle to mimic a real mannequin. Make sure that you still have some neck left, however! Stuff the shirt with polyester stuffing. If you need to, cover the neck hole with a few strips of duct tape so that the stuffing doesn't come out the other end. Keep stuffing until the mannequin feels full and firm. You will need about two bags of polyester stuffing. Trace the base of the mannequin onto cardboard or foam board. Stand the mannequin upright on a sheet of cardboard of foam board. Trace around the mannequin using a marker. This will eventually make the bottom of your mannequin. Cut the base out using a box cutter or craft blade. Make sure that you cut just inside the lines that you drew. Make your cuts smooth and precise. Tape the base to the bottom of the mannequin. Turn the mannequin upside down. Set the cardboard base into the bottom of the mannequin. Fold short pieces of duct tape over the edges of the cardboard onto the bottom edge of the mannequin. If you want to, you can cover the entire bottom of the cardboard with more duct tape so that it matches the rest of your mannequin. Cover the top of the mannequin using the same method as you did for the base. Trace the neck opening onto a sheet of cardboard. Cut the circle out. Set it down on top of the neck. Secure it with strips of tape, all the way around. Cover the top of the cardboard with more tape, if desired. Secure the foam base to a metal stand. Choose a sturdy, metal stand, such as a lamp post. Trace the top of the metal stand against the bottom of the mannequin. Cut the hole out, then set the mannequin on top of the stand. Seal the seam between the edges of the hole and the stand with hot glue. For extra security, use epoxy or an industrial-strength glue instead. If you are using a lamp post, make sure that you cut away any wires so that you are just left with the metal stand. Cover the mannequin with fabric, if desired. The easiest way to do this would be to find another fitted shirt, and place it over the mannequin. You can also sew a fitted, corset-like cover for it using cotton or jersey fabric.	Put on an old, fitted shirt you don't mind ruining. Cover your neck and collar area with plastic wrap. Wrap a strip of duct tape around your torso, just under you breasts. Cross two pieces of tape across the front of your chest. Continue adding tape across the shoulders, breast, and back area. Fill in the gaps under your armpit. Fill in the gaps on your back and chest. Wrap the tape around your neck. Wrap more tape around your waist down to the bottom of the shirt. Cut up the back of your duct tape shirt. Take the shirt off. Seal the gap with a strip of duct tape. Touch up the top and bottom edges, if desired. Stuff the shirt with polyester stuffing. Trace the base of the mannequin onto cardboard or foam board. Cut the base out using a box cutter or craft blade. Tape the base to the bottom of the mannequin. Cover the top of the mannequin using the same method as you did for the base. Secure the foam base to a metal stand. Cover the mannequin with fabric, if desired.
https://www.wikihow.com/Detangle-Dry,-Damaged-Hair	How to Detangle Dry, Damaged Hair	To detangle really knotted hair, try mixing a small amount of mineral oil with some conditioner and apply it gently to the affected areas. Next, gently comb through the hair with a wide-tooth comb, starting at the tips and working your way towards the roots. Then, wash out the oil with a small amount of shampoo, apply some leave-in conditioner and allow it to dry naturally.	Follow your regular healthy hair routine. Wash your hair using whatever method works best for you. Don't let your hair dry completely before the next step. Avoid blow-drying, as the heat can dry out and damage your hair further. Massage or spray some leave-in conditioner into your wet hair. Be sure to get the roots as well as the tips. There are a variety of different leave-in conditioners available. Pick the one that works best for your hair type. Prepare your rinse-out conditioner. This can be your favorite conditioner straight out of the bottle. A dollop of hand lotion can be added to increase the slipperiness of your hair, making the detangling process easier. Especially dry hair can benefit from the addition of hair oils, which work to soften and moisturize. The best product for this step is dependent on your hair's unique qualities, so trial and error over time may be necessary to find your perfect conditioner. However, there are some basic guidelines you can follow depending on your hair type to narrow things down: Straight, fine hair: Volumizing conditioners will keep your hair from looking too flat. Wavy hair: Light-weight moisturizing conditioners are able to both moisturize your hair to get rid of tangles without flattening out your natural volume. Thick, curly hair: Deep-hydrating moisturizers are necessary to prevent this hair type from drying and causing further tangles. Coily: This type of hair needs the most intense moisturizers, and it's often best to use products specifically designed with African-American hair in mind. Look for conditioners that include oils or shea butter among their ingredients. Gently massage your rinse-out conditioner into your hair. Start from the back bottom and work your way up and to the front. Make sure to work the conditioner into the full length of your hair. If your hair is long, pile the conditioned back portion on top of your head to reach the hair underneath. Leave the conditioner in for no longer than five minutes before rinsing it out. Gently comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb as you rinse. Don't use a brush, as brushes can cause further tangles. Start combing in sections from the tip of your hair to the roots to avoid breakage. Continue to comb your hair after you've finished rinsing. Massage or spray in a small amount of leave-in conditioner. Remove most of the water by wrapping your hair with a towel for a few minutes. Rubbing your hair with a towel can damage your hair. Allow your hair to air dry, combing every 10-20 minutes. Letting your hair dry naturally prevents future damage and tangles. Be gentle while combing to avoid breaks. You don't need to be as careful once your hair is almost completely dry. Take a small amount of mineral oil and mix it with some conditioner. Rub the mixture in your hands until the two are well-blended. Be careful not to use too much, as that may result in greasy hair. You can also substitute a variety of other hair oils for this step. "Hair oil" is a generic term for dozens of different oils that can be used to moisturize hair. Some of the most common hair oils are ones you probably recognize from cooking: olive oil, grapeseed oil, and coconut oil. Hair oils are generally recommended for hair that is thick and dry. Fine, oily hair will likely become flat and extra greasy if these products are used. Apply the mixture to the tangled parts of your hair. Use your fingers to gently rub it into the tangle itself. Gentleness is key. If you aren't careful with this step, you may make the tangle worse. Pull a wide-tooth comb gently through the tangle. Start with the part of the tangle closest to the hair's tips. Gently work the comb towards the roots. Combing forcefully from the roots can result in lost hair! This process can take some time depending on the size and severity of the tangle, so patience is key. Wash out the oil with a small amount of shampoo once the tangle has been completely removed. Be careful not to re-tangle your hair while you rinse. Apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner. Gently comb your hair and allow it to air-dry. Comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb. Don't use a brush, as brushes can make tangles worse. This method is best for long hair with only minor tangles. If you can't run a comb through your hair at all, try one of the other methods instead. Part your hair into three sections. Separate your hair out into back, right, and left. Hold each section in place with a large hair clip. This step is to make your hair easier to handle. If yours is short enough, you can skip this step. Unclip and wet the section you're doing first. You can use either plain water or a specialty detangling spray. As with most of the products recommended here, what you pick is dependent upon your hair type. In general, curly and coily hair benefit most from detanglers, while plain water often works for straight and wavy hair. Pull a wide-tooth comb gently through your damp hair. Slowly and gently comb your hair in sections, moving from tips to roots. Continue combing until your hair is completely untangled. If you find this step difficult, you may need to wet your hair a bit more. Just make sure it isn't completely soaked! Reclip the first section and repeat steps 3-4 with the remaining sections. If your hair is straight, don't let the previous sections completely dry while clipped. This could result in a chaotic, messy look. Simply remoisten as necessary to prevent drying. Remove all clips and comb the sections together. Allow your hair to air-dry. Remember that blow-drying can dry out your hair too much and lead to further damage. Avoid having to repeat the detangling!	Follow your regular healthy hair routine. Massage or spray some leave-in conditioner into your wet hair. Prepare your rinse-out conditioner. Gently massage your rinse-out conditioner into your hair. Leave the conditioner in for no longer than five minutes before rinsing it out. Continue to comb your hair after you've finished rinsing. Allow your hair to air dry, combing every 10-20 minutes. Take a small amount of mineral oil and mix it with some conditioner. Apply the mixture to the tangled parts of your hair. Pull a wide-tooth comb gently through the tangle. Wash out the oil with a small amount of shampoo once the tangle has been completely removed. Comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb. Part your hair into three sections. Unclip and wet the section you're doing first. Pull a wide-tooth comb gently through your damp hair. Reclip the first section and repeat steps 3-4 with the remaining sections. Remove all clips and comb the sections together.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Black-Soap	How to Make Black Soap	To make black soap, start by mixing potash and distilled water in a pot and bringing it to a boil. Once it starts boiling, lower the heat and let the mixture simmer for 30 minutes, stirring it regularly. After 30 minutes, transfer the potash to a jar. Then, heat some castor oil and coconut oil in a pot and mix in some of the potash you made. Cover the pot and cook the soap on high heat until it thickens. Finally, let the soap cool to room temperature and pour it into a mold to harden.	Purchase organic potash from an online supplier. You may also be able to find it in a store that specializes in African grocery, but those may be difficult to find. It's typically sold in 2.5 to 3-ounce (94.71 to 113.65-g) bags. Make sure that it's food grade or labeled for soap-making. Potash is ash that comes from different sources, such as cocoa, plantain, and clay. Any of these will work for black soap, but they may affect the final color and texture. You can buy potash online from stores that specialize in soap making supplies or African grocery. Combine your potash and warm water in a stainless steel pot. Pour 2.5 to 3 ounces (94.71 to 113.65) of potash into a medium-sized stainless steel pot. Stir in 2 ⁄ 2 cups (590 mL) of warm, distilled water. Potash isn't as harsh as lye, but it can still affect your skin. Put on plastic, rubber, or vinyl gloves, and don't take them off until after you've finished making the soap. Don't use tap or filtered water. They may contain minerals, which might affect the soap in the end. If you can't find a stainless steel pot, then an iron pot will work just fine. Don't use aluminum as it will react with the potash. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Keep an eye on the water as it comes to a boil. Once the potash starts to heat up, it may start to bubble and boil over. This should only take a couple of minutes, but be patient. You need to bring the potash to a boil because it helps jump-start the saponification process. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 30 minutes, stirring often. The potash is ready when it starts to harden and take on a crumbly texture, like ground meat. This will typically happen after about 30 minutes. As the potash cooks, be sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the pot often with a rubber spatula. The potash will absorb the water and turn solid. You can help it cook faster by flattening it across the bottom of the pot with your spatula. Watch out for bubbles; don't let the potash boil over. If it starts to happen, lift the pot off the stove for a moment or two until the bubbles die down. Remove the potash from heat once it starts to look crumbly. If the potash doesn't look like ground meat just yet, let it cook for a few more minutes. Once it turns crumbly, turn the stove off and set the pot aside. The potash needs to cool down a little before you can use it. You can take the potash out of the pot and transfer it into a jar. The pot will look sticky, gummy, and caked over. A bit of water will clean it right up, however. Heat the castor oil and coconut oil over low heat in a deep pot. Pour 4 ounces (120 mL) of castor oil and 4 ounces (120 mL) of coconut oil into a deep pot. Set the pot on the stove and turn the heat on to “low.” Cook the oils, stirring often, until the coconut oil melts and combines with the castor oil. Make sure that the pot is deep, like what you'd use for pasta. This will ensure that the soap won't boil over when you make it. Like with the pot you used for preparing the potash, make sure that you won't use this one again for cooking. If you don't have castor oil, try palm oil instead. Mix 1.8 ounces (68.19 g) of potash and 3⁄4 cup (180 mL) of warm water. Use a kitchen scale to measure out 1.8 ounces (68.19 g) of your prepared potash. Place the potash into a bowl, then pour ⁄ 4 cup (180 mL) of warm water over it. Let the potash sit for a few minutes until it dissolves. Use distilled water for best results. How long it takes for the potash to dissolve will vary each time. Expect it to take anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes. Store the rest of the potash in an airtight container. This is important, otherwise the potash will absorb moisture from the air and turn corrosive. Pour the dissolved potash into the warmed oil. Use you rubber spatula to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl clean so that you don't waste any potash. Give the mixture a stir to combine everything. Cook the soap over high heat, stirring often, until it thickens. This process will produce a lot of smoke, so it would be a good idea to open up a window and turn the fan above your stove on. If you have a portable stove that you can bring outside, that would be even better. Don't wait; once the potash starts to thicken, move onto the next step. Take the pot off the stove and let the soap cool to room temperature. This completes the soap-making process. At this point, you can stir dyes or essential oils into your soap, although this is not typical for black soap. Most people leave black soap in its purest form, without any additions. Pour the soap into soap-making molds. The best mold to use for this type of soap is the long, rectangular soap-making mold. You will need to cut the soap into bars after it finishing curing. You may be able to use smaller plastic or silicone molds too, however. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the soap from the sides of the pot so that you don't waste anything. Alternatively, leave the soap in the pot. This way, you can pull it apart into smaller tufts later. Wait 24 to 48 hours before you demold and slice the soap. Take the soap making mold apart, then transfer the soap to a flat surface. Use a smooth (non-serrated) knife to cut the soap into 1 to 1 ⁄ 2 in (2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick bars. If you used individual soap molds, you don't need to take them apart and slice the soap. Just turn the soap out onto a flat surface, like taking a cake out of a pan. If you left the soap in the pot, pull it apart into marble-sized tufts. This will give you single-use portions that are perfect for washing your face and hands. Allow the bars to finish curing for 2 weeks on a wire rack. This is very important. Much like lye-based soap, black soap needs to cure and harden as well. Keep in mind, however, that black soap will never be quite as hard as regular soap. After 1 week, turn the bars over so. This will ensure that they cure evenly. Store the soap in a sealed container when you aren't using it. Wrap extra bars in plastic wrap or keep in them plastic, zippered bags. If you made individual "portions" of black soap, then you can keep those in a jar or zippered bag. If you wish to keep the soap in a soap dish, make sure that it has slots so that the excess water can drain out. Keeping black soap away from moisture is important. If it gets wet, it will start to dissolve again. Black soap can develop a white film over time. This is normal and doesn't harm or change the soap's ability to function. Work the soap into a lather before you use it on your skin. Black soap is very grainy. If you use it directly on your skin, it may irritate it. Instead, work the soap into a lather, then use the lather to cleanse your skin. If you're used a tuft of black soap, roll it into a ball first so that it doesn't have any sharp edges. Black soap may cause a tingling, burning sensation, which is normal. If you develop a rash, however, stop using the soap and consult a dermatologist.	Purchase organic potash from an online supplier. Combine your potash and warm water in a stainless steel pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 30 minutes, stirring often. Remove the potash from heat once it starts to look crumbly. Heat the castor oil and coconut oil over low heat in a deep pot. Mix 1.8 ounces (68.19 g) of potash and 3⁄4 cup (180 mL) of warm water. Pour the dissolved potash into the warmed oil. Cook the soap over high heat, stirring often, until it thickens. Take the pot off the stove and let the soap cool to room temperature. Pour the soap into soap-making molds. Wait 24 to 48 hours before you demold and slice the soap. Allow the bars to finish curing for 2 weeks on a wire rack. Store the soap in a sealed container when you aren't using it. Work the soap into a lather before you use it on your skin.
https://www.wikihow.com/Respect-Your-Friends	How to Respect Your Friends	The best way to respect your friends is to appreciate them, which you can do by regularly letting them know how important they are to you. For example, tell them how grateful you are for their friendship. Another caring way to show respect is to notice their thoughtfulness and kindness by saying “thank you” whenever your friends help you out. Similarly, be supportive of your friends' different views, even if you don't always agree because this shows you value what is important to them. For instance, offer to go with them to book club one night instead of always insisting they go out with you. And no matter what troubles your friends are going through, you can show you really care by listening to your friends without judgment and offering advice only when they ask you for it.	Be supportive. Never stop believing in your friends, even when they've given up. Don't be unrealistic – but try to see the best in them, and try to help them see the best in themselves. Encourage them when you know that they need the extra push. Be a positive influence. Don't support your friend in doing things that you know are a bad idea. On the other hand, respect your friend's right to learn from his or her mistakes. Help them study for tests, but don't tutor them like a teacher. If you tutor your friend too much, they might get irritated; they may believe that you think that they know nothing. Only help them out if they ask for advice, and it may make the two of you closer. Never forget your friend's birthday. Write him or her a thoughtful note, and make or buy a gift that feels personal. This shows that you care, and that you want the friendship to last a long time. Odds are, your friend will be deeply grateful. Listen to them. Listen to their problems, their fears, their dreams, their joys. Put aside your own problems, and take the time to fix your full attention upon what your friend needs. Offer advice, if it seems appropriate, but try to just let them talk. Listening is one of the most important things that you can do for a friendship. Listen to all of your friends when they need to talk. If you prove that you are a thoughtful and trustworthy listener, your friends may confide most of their problems in you. Do not interrupt them when they're speaking. Interruption is a sign of disrespect. Never force your friends to talk to you when they make it clear they don't want to. Don't take this personally. Some people are simply more reserved, and are the type to handle their problems themselves. This doesn't mean they have anything against you, or don't value you as a friend. It means talking about certain topics might make them uncomfortable, and you should always respect that. Pressuring them to speak to you will only make them not want to come to you with things in the future. Show gratitude. Say "thank you" whenever your friends do you a favor or give you something. Consider telling your friends how much they mean to you. Appreciate the fact that another human being went out of his or her way to do something specifically for you – no matter how large or small that thing may seem. Repay friendship with friendship. Help your friends out without them having to ask. Show your gratitude by responding in kind. Share your gratitude. You don't need to wait for a special occasion to tell your friend how much he or she means to you. Say, "This might sound random, but I want you to know what an awesome friend you are. You're always there for me when I need someone to talk to, and you have the greatest sense of humor. Thank you." Find hobbies that you have in common. Music, for instance: listen to something new that nobody else listens to in your area, such as K-pop or any international music. If you do sports, or anything active or creative, ask your friends if they'd like to try it out – anything from rock climbing to painting to video games. Listen to your friends talk about what they like, and ask if you can have a go. Not only will this shared experience help you form a closer bond, but it will make your friends feel as though their preferences are worthy. Consider trying something at least once before you dismiss it. Even if you don't like it, try to understand why your friend enjoys doing it. You don't need to like everything that they like – but you should at least respect the fact that they like it. Respect their feelings. When your friends express that something hurts their feelings, or makes them uncomfortable, realize it isn't funny. If they go out of your way to point out that your behavior affects them in a negative way, it's time to stop. Your friends feelings are more important than what you find personally entertaining. Just because something doesn't seem like a "big deal" to you, doesn't mean it isn't to them. This doesn't make them "too sensitive", or "over-emotional". Refrain from judgement. Unless something your friend is doing is hurting themselves or others, there is no reason to give an unwanted, negative opinion. Putting undue pressure and judgement on them will make them start to dislike your presence. Try to be supportive and non-judgmental, even if you deeply disagree with something that they did. Show your respect by letting the friendship stand stronger than any one mistake. If your friend messes up, forgive them – even if he or she, say, forgets your birthday. If they don't study for an important test, help them out. If your friend embarrasses him/herself in front of their crush, or in front of a group of people that they like, then help them out. Tell them that people will forget about it. Make sure you don't constantly talk about what happened, and just drop it as soon as it happens. Give respectful advice. Warn your friends if they make a decision that seems like a bad idea. If you know someone well, then your opinion is valuable. However, your responsibility as a friend does not include depriving someone of the opportunity to make mistakes and learn from them. Make sure that you respect your friends' right to make their own choices. If they need to do something, then let them do it. Talk about your disagreement. Arrange a time when you can interact one-on-one. Then, if you're sure that they are okay with being alone with you, try easing into a friendly conversation about where you think things went wrong. Humble yourself for a few minutes, and try to speak with your friend as though everything were normal. Do not accuse. If you want to restore your friendship, you'll need to let go of your anger. Rash words and unfounded accusations may cause the person to put up a defensive wall. However, it's reasonable to bring up an offense if it directly caused the falling-out. Learn the boundaries. If a friend feels like he or she is being held back, he/she might react by creating distance or fading from your life in an attempt to get some space. This might hurt – but sometimes people will do this without even realizing it. Respect their journey, and give them some space. Allow them to spend time with friends other than you.nThey can still be your friend, even though they want to hang out with other people too. Remember that respect goes both ways. If your friend doesn't respect you, then you shouldn't respect them. Respect is earned, not given. If your "friend" steals your boyfriend/girlfriend, then they do not deserve your respect or friendship.	Be supportive. Never forget your friend's birthday. Listen to them. Never force your friends to talk to you when they make it clear they don't want to. Show gratitude. Find hobbies that you have in common. Respect their feelings. Refrain from judgement. Give respectful advice. Talk about your disagreement. Learn the boundaries. Remember that respect goes both ways.
https://www.wikihow.com/Give-a-Presentation-in-Front-of-Your-Teacher	How to Give a Presentation in Front of Your Teacher	Giving a presentation in front of your teacher can be nerve-wracking, but if you take time to practice beforehand, you'll do great. Start by memorizing what you're going to say and practice speaking slowly and clearly. If you have time, you can also work on making a poster or a powerpoint to help your presentation stand out. On the day of the presentation, calm your nerves by taking a few deep breaths right before your turn and thinking positive thoughts like, “I'm going to do great!”	Understand the instructions for the presentation. It is important to follow all the instructions your teacher has given. If there is something you aren't sure about, be sure to ask. What is your presentation supposed to be about? How many minutes should your presentation last? Should the presentation include a visual aspect as well? For example, should you have a PowerPoint presentation, a flip chart, or other props? Are you allowed to have note cards in your hand while you present? Write out what you want to say. During the real presentation, it's best to present either from memory or using a few note cards; however, it can be helpful while making your presentation to write out what you want to say word for word. This will help ensure that you don't miss anything important, and you won't be struggling to find the right words later on. If you are creating a visual presentation, writing out everything that you want to say will also help you pick out important points to include in the visual part of the presentation. Use visuals or a slideshow to create your presentation. One of the most common ways that people create presentations today is using Microsoft PowerPoint. Create a slideshow and include a slide for each main point of your presentation. Remember not to overload your slides with too much information. Include one or two bullet points that make your main point. If you can, use an image that will enhance what you're saying. If you have been instructed to use a poster board or flip chart, then create your presentation using bold markers that will be able to be read easily from a distance. Consider gluing on images that help your presentation make sense. As with PowerPoint, make sure not to make your poster/flip chart too busy. You want your visuals to aid your presentation, not take over it. Keep the presentation simple and neat. Unless your teacher has given specific instruction on this, stick to fonts and colors that are neutral and easy to read, like Garamond, Arial, or Times New Roman. Find ways to use pictures that can illustrate what you are talking about with your words. For example, if you are presenting on an important battle in history, you might find paintings, drawings, or photographs and use those to help your listeners imagine the battle. Bring more than one copy of your presentation. Many times, people have prepared wonderful presentations only to find out that they aren't able to open it on the day of the presentation because of some technical problem. It is a good idea to have your presentation (assuming it is an electronic presentation) saved and accessible in several different forms. For example, you can save your presentation on one or even two different USB sticks, and you can also email the presentation to yourself. This way, you have a few different options for getting it open. Choose appropriate clothing. Although it may seem silly to you, if you want to impress your teacher, you will want to look nice on the day of the presentation. If you have a school uniform that your school requires you to wear, make sure it is clean and pressed. If you can wear what you want, try to dress business casual on that day. If you're giving your presentation late in the day bring your presentation clothes with you and change into them right before class. If you're giving the presentation early in the day, come dressed for the presentation and then have more casual clothes to change into, if you don't want to wear your nice clothes all day. It is a good idea to lay out the clothes that you want to wear the night before. This way, you will know they are ready to go, and you won't have to think about what you will wear at all on presentation day. Make sure you are well-groomed. On the day of the presentation, take a little extra time to look nice. Bring your toothbrush or some floss so that you can get anything embarrassing out of your teeth before your presentation begins. If you wear makeup, consider bringing a bit of makeup for a touch up before your presentation. You could also bring a comb or brush to make sure your hair is neat. Get a good night’s rest. Though it can sometimes be hard to sleep when you're feeling nervous about something, do your best to get to bed on time. If you can't relax, try having a warm cup of tea and do something that you find relaxing. Try to make sure that your presentation is completely ready to go before going to bed. This will help keep you from laying in bed trying to remember anything you might have forgotten to take care of. Pack everything you will need for school including anything for the presentation before getting ready for bed. Practice the presentation alone. Before practicing in front of others, it can be helpful to practice on your own. The key here is to practice as though it were the real thing. Doing so will help you identify any major problems with your presentation. Try to make this practice as realistic as possible. Stand up next to your presentation, as you plan to stand during the real thing. You might not have access to a projector, but you can still stand next to your computer for practice. If you are using a different visual presentation, set it up in the way that you plan to use it during the presentation. For example, hang your poster board on the wall. In your first trial runs, you may find that you have to stop to fix major problems or to make notes of things you want to say. This is OK to do, but try not to get in the habit of stopping every time you have a problem. Practicing helps to work out issues, but it also helps you practice getting past mistakes as smoothly as possible. Use a timer. Even if your teacher has not assigned a maximum or minimum time limit, it is a good idea to time the presentation. This way, you will know how long your presentation is, and will also help you see whether or not you are consistently giving your presentation each time you practice. You can use the timer on your phone or a stopwatch. If you don't have either of those, try doing a Google search for “stopwatch” and you can use the built-in one on the Google search page. Alternatively, you can also just make a note of the time when you start the presentation and then see what time it is when you end the presentation. Don't forget to factor in a few minutes for potential questions! Memorize what you want to say. While you are practicing your presentation, do your best to work on memorizing what you want to say, and when you want to say it. Your presentation will be a lot better if you aren't constantly looking down at note cards or searching a piece of paper to figure out what you want to say next. Keep in mind that memorizing, in this case, doesn't mean having a word for word script in your head. Instead, it means that you know what you are presenting well enough to do it without the use of note cards. It's OK if you say things a lit bit differently each time you practice the presentation as this will make you seem confident and natural. If your teacher has said it's OK, you could consider writing down a few points that you're having trouble remembering on a small note card. Ask your parents for feedback. Ask your parents or another family member if you can practice your presentation on them. Tell them that you would like them to look for anything that is unclear in your presentation, any nervous habits you might have while giving your presentation (e.g. fidgeting with your hands), and anything else that you can improve for your actual presentation. Keep in mind that if your parents are the type that think everything you do is perfect then they may not be very critical of your presentation even though it would help you. On the other hand, if you have extremely critical parents, try to take everything they say in moderation, and remember that they just want you to do well. Consider giving the presentation in front of a trusted friend. It can be helpful to get feedback from different people. If you have a friend or classmate who is also giving a presentation ask them if she can help you practice, and offer to help her with her presentation in return. If you don't have a classmate you want to ask, then ask a friend who you trust to be helpful with the presentation. Avoid asking a friend who you know will not take the task seriously. Have people ask you questions. Ask the people that are practicing with to try and come up with different questions about the content of your presentation. Your teacher or peers may want to ask questions about your topic at the end of your presentation so it's a good idea to have a bit of practice with this. You may not be able to answer every question that is thrown at you, and this is OK. If you get a question that you don't know the answer to, do your best to tell them what you do know, and tell them you will find out the rest of the answer and get back to them. Manage nervousness right before presentation. There are a few things you can do before the presentation to help calm your nerves — many of which you can even do right at your desk. Try breathing deeply ; silently repeating affirmations (such as "I can do this. I'm going to do a great job"); or using positive visualization (imagine yourself giving your presentation successfully and knocking it out of the park). These strategies can help you settle your nerves and go into your presentation feeling calm and collected. Offer to present first. By going first, you get your presentation out of the way. You won't have to sit through the rest of the class worrying about your presentation. People are also less likely to remember the first presentations. If your presentation doesn't go well your teacher is more likely to forget your mistakes if he has seen many other presentations. If you really don't want to go first, try to go second or third. The earlier you can get your presentation out of the way, the better. Set up your materials. Your teacher will probably allow you a few minutes to get set up for your presentation. During this time, open up your file on the computer (or set up your poster board of flip chart), make sure your note cards are in order (if you have them), and make sure that your clothes are in order (check that your pants aren't unzipped). During this time, take a few deep breaths and reassure yourself that you're going to do great. You've done everything you need to do to make your presentation go well. Introduce yourself and what you will be talking about. If you are in a very big class, it is possible that not everyone knows your name; therefore, it is a good idea to say something like, “Hi everybody, if you don't already know my name, I'm [your name]. Today, I will be presenting about…” Don't go into too much detail when introducing the topic of your presentation, but try to get your listeners interested quickly. For example, if you are presenting about how to choose a college, you could say something like, “You may think that where you go to college isn't that important; however, you probably don't realize that where you go to college will have a huge impact on your life. It will have an impact on where you live, who you meet, and most importantly whether or not you can get the job you want.” Speak slowly and enunciate clearly. If you have practiced enough, this shouldn't be difficult; however, some people talk too quickly and too quietly when they get nervous. Try to remind yourself to talk slowly and loudly enough so everyone can hear you. If you're using an electronic presentation, you can use each new slide as a chance to stop for a few seconds and recognize whether you are speaking slowly and loudly enough for everyone to hear. Don’t panic if you make a mistake. Even the best presenters make mistakes sometimes. If you do make a mistake or stumble over a word, don't let that ruin the whole presentation. If you need to, take a few seconds to regroup, and start again where you left off. If the mistake was small, chances are that nobody even noticed it. If they did notice, they probably didn't care too much. Remember that your teacher probably isn't out to get you, and they won't get mad at you for making a mistake. You can also make a joke out of the mistake. For instance, if you stumble over the pronunciation of a word, then purposely mispronounce the next word or two after that and really get the room laughing. Smile and laugh about it yourself — being able to laugh at yourself shows confidence. Then continue with the presentation. Make eye contact. Try to look around the room and make eye contact with various listeners for a few seconds. Don't forget to also make eye contact with your teacher. During presentations, some people get nervous and seem to be staring at one point in the room or at the ground, which can be distracting for some people. If you are able to make eye contact for a few seconds with several different people over the course of your presentation, you will be giving the impression that you are relaxed and confident. Don't forget to smile! Be aware of your body language. It might be hard to remember everything you want to say while also worrying about what you are doing with your body, but do your best to be aware of what you're doing with your hands, and how you're standing. For example, it's OK to use hand gestures, but don't overdo it. Use hand gestures where they fit naturally into what you're saying. Avoid crossing your arms or your feet; this gives the impression that you are not open to your audience. Don't fidget with your hands. When you are not gesturing, you can clasp them together gently in front of you or simply let your arms hang at your sides. You don't have to stand glued to one spot in the room, but don't move around too much or too quickly. Remember that you are trying to convey a confident attitude. Thank everyone for their time and attention. Once you make it to the end of the presentation, pause for a few seconds to signal to everyone that you have finished. Then end the presentation by saying something like, “This concludes my presentation. I want to thank all of you for listening so attentively. Are there any questions?” If your teacher has instructed that there will be no question and answer portion, then leave out the part where you ask if anyone has questions. Having a few closing remarks will bring the presentation to a more natural and less awkward close than if you simply stop talking and go to sit down at your desk.	Understand the instructions for the presentation. Write out what you want to say. Use visuals or a slideshow to create your presentation. Bring more than one copy of your presentation. Choose appropriate clothing. Make sure you are well-groomed. Get a good night’s rest. Practice the presentation alone. Use a timer. Memorize what you want to say. Ask your parents for feedback. Consider giving the presentation in front of a trusted friend. Have people ask you questions. Manage nervousness right before presentation. Offer to present first. Set up your materials. Introduce yourself and what you will be talking about. Speak slowly and enunciate clearly. Don’t panic if you make a mistake. Make eye contact. Be aware of your body language. Thank everyone for their time and attention.
https://www.wikihow.com/Style-a-1930s-Finger-Wave-Hairstyle	How to Style a 1930s Finger Wave Hairstyle	If you want to do a 1930's finger wave hairstyle, start by washing your hair and blotting it partially dry. Then, apply a strong-hold hairgel to your hair and part your hair to one side, making sure the part extends back to the crown of your head. After it is parted, start combing your hair down on the larger side of your part. When you get to where you want a wave, hold your finger parallel to the part, press down and secure a wave clamp. Repeat this process until you have several waves on each side. Let the clamps sit until your hair completely dries and remove for a stunning effect!	Wash your hair. You need to start with wet hair for this style to take hold, so go ahead and wash it using your favorite shampoo and conditioner. Blot it dry. Don't entirely dry your hair; just blot it gently with a soft towel, making sure it's no longer dripping wet. Apply gel. Any type of strong-hold hair gel will do. Use a liberal amount toward the top and front of your hair, where the finger waves will be, and spread a smaller amount throughout the rest of your hair. Part your hair. Use a fine-toothed comb to create a deep part on one side. Extend it back further than you normally would, so it almost reaches the crown of your head. Make sure it's nice and straight. Comb your hair forward on the bigger side of the part. Leave the other side of the part, the smaller side, untouched for now. Comb your hair straight forward on the larger side. Place your forefinger parallel to the part and press down. You want to align your finger with the part and press down to keep the hair right next to the part in place. Comb the hair next to your finger back. This is a little tricky. Keep your finger firmly in place, so that the hair underneath it stays in its forward-combed position. Now take the comb and use it to comb the hair right next to your finger backward, so it's going in the opposite direction of the hair under your forefinger. Position your middle finger next to your forefinger. You're using your middle finger to hold the hair right next to your forefinger in place. Pinch the two fingers together and secure the hair with a metal wave clamp. The hair that lifts between your fingers is going to become a finger wave. Hold it in place with one of the metal wave clamps. The clamp should run parallel to your part. Make more waves. Comb the hair right next to the clamp forward, and hold it there with your forefinger. Comb the hair next to your forefinger backward, and hold it there with your middle finger. Pinch your fingers together and secure the hair that lifts between them with a metal wave clamp. Keep making waves until you've created waves down the top of your ear. Wave the hair on the other side of the part. Do the same thing to the other side, using your fingers and the clamps to create waves all the way to the top of your ear. Let your hair dry. Your hair should completely dry in the clamps. Don't take them out while your hair is still wet, or the waves will fall out. Consider the rest of your hair. The finger wave is typically only done to either side of the front of the hair. The rest of your hair should also be styled to create a polished look. Choose one of these options: If you have long hair, create soft curls. After you've put the clamps in and while your hair is still damp, roll the rest of your hair up in curlers. Do a bob. If your hair is short, you can curl the rest of it under using a few large curlers. Make a chignon. This is a pretty way to style your hair, too. Remove the clamps. Gently un-clamp them to reveal your new finger waves. If your hair is totally dry, they should stay in place. If you put curlers in your hair, take those out as well. Don't comb your hair or the waves will get loose. Spray your hair with hairspray. Make sure your look stays in place by using hairspray to secure it. Spray the front and sides of your hair. . Add some 30s flair Do 30s-style makeup, and put on a 30s-style outfit. Your look is now complete.	Wash your hair. Blot it dry. Apply gel. Part your hair. Comb your hair forward on the bigger side of the part. Place your forefinger parallel to the part and press down. Comb the hair next to your finger back. Position your middle finger next to your forefinger. Pinch the two fingers together and secure the hair with a metal wave clamp. Make more waves. Wave the hair on the other side of the part. Let your hair dry. Consider the rest of your hair. Remove the clamps. Spray your hair with hairspray. .
https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-Different-Types-of-Bandages	How to Apply Different Types of Bandages	You may need to apply different types of bandages to different wounds. For instance, to apply a strip bandage to a minor scrape, place the gauze part of the bandage over the wound, then pull away the paper covering and press the adhesive onto your skin. If you need to use an elastic bandage over a large wound on someone's limb, apply a large gauze pad over the would, then wrap the bandage securely around their limb to hold it in place.	Know when to use strip bandages. Strip bandages come in a variety of sizes and types. These bandages are ideal for covering small cuts and scrapes and minor wounds. These bandages are particularly effective for use on wounds on your hands and/or fingers, as they easily cover small cuts while staying firmly attached when applied to unusual angles. Choose a size. Strip bandages come in single-size packs and multi-packs with many sizes. Whenever selecting a strip bandage, make sure the padded gauze part of the bandage is larger than the wound itself. Remove the packaging. Most strip bandages, made up of an elastic or cloth adhesive sticker over a small bit of gauze, come packaged individually. Remove the bandage from the packaging and remove the coverings on the adhesive part of the bandage before trying to apply it. Place the gauze over the wound. Strip bandages have a small piece of gauze centered in piece of adhesive tape. Place the padded gauze section of the bandage directly over the wound. Be careful not to apply the adhesive tape part of the bandage to wound, as this can open your cut when removing the bandage. If necessary, you can apply a small amount of anti-bacterial ointment to the gauze pad before applying the bandage to the wound. Try to avoid touching the gauze with your fingers so that you don't transfer any dirt or germs to the bandage. Firmly attach the adhesive. Once you have covered the wound with the gauze part of the bandage, gently stretch the adhesive tape part of the bandage and attach it firmly to the skin surrounding the wound. Make sure there is no slack or any gaps in the adhesive tape so that the bandage stays securely in one spot. Change regularly. You will want to remove and replace the strip bandage regularly. When changing the bandage make sure to clean and dry the wound thoroughly and allow it to be exposed to the air for a few minutes before reattaching a replacement bandage. Take care not to allow any tugging or pulling on the wound itself when removing a bandage. You should replace strip bandages anytime they get wet. Also, you will want to change the bandage as soon as the gauze pad becomes soaked with fluid draining from the wound. Know when to use elastic/wrap bandages. When a wound is too large to cover with a strip bandage, it is best to cover the wound with gauze and an elastic/wrap bandage. These bandages are ideal for larger wounds on the extremities, like the arms or legs, because the bandage will wrap neatly around the limb. Secure the gauze. Elastic/wrap bandages are not designed to cover the wound. You will need to apply sterile gauze to wound itself before applying the bandage. Make sure the gauze covers the entire wound. It is better to use gauze pads that are slightly larger than the wound. If necessary, you can apply tape to the outside of the gauze pad itself to hold it place until you cover it with an elastic bandage. Again, you can apply a medicated ointment to the pad to help disinfect and heal the wound. Wrap the elastic bandage. Once the gauze pad is in place, you need to wrap up the area with the elastic bandage. Start by wrapping the bandage below the wound. Moving upwards, apply the bandage, covering at least half of the applied bandage with each new pass. You will be done when you have applied the bandage to a spot above the wound. Fasten the bandage. Now that the elastic/wrap bandage has been applied, you need to fasten it. This can be done a number of ways. You can use tape or clips to hold the end of the elastic bandage in place. Make sure the bandage is not too tight before securing the end of the bandage. Change regularly. In order for the wound to drain and heal, you need to remove the elastic bandage from time to time. Every time you remove the bandage, be sure to thoroughly clean and dry the wound, allowing it to sit in the open air for a few minutes. As a general rule, you will need to change the bandage at least once a day or when drainage from the wound soaks through the gauze pad. Understand the purpose of a bandage. While many people think that bandages are used to stop bleeding or infection, they're actually used to hold a dressing in place. Bandages come with a small bit of dressing attached (like a band-aid) or are put over the top of a separate piece of sterile dressing. This is important to note, because if you simply put a bandage over a wound without dressing, the wound will continue to bleed and can become infected. Never put a bandage directly over a wound. Avoid bandaging too tightly. If you've ever been on the receiving end of an overly-tight bandage, then you know the discomfort it can cause. If a bandage is attached too tightly, it can cause more damage to the wound/body and cause discomfort/pain to the wearer. A bandage should be applied tight enough so that the dressing doesn't become exposed or become loose, but loose enough that it does not restrict blood flow. Use a bandage for breaks and dislocations. Not all bandages have to be used for wounds; you can use a bandage for broken bones and dislocations as well. If you experience injuries like a fractured bone, dislocated arm, eye problems, or another internal injury, you can use a bandage to support and secure it. The only difference with bandaging internal injuries is that you don't have to use any gauze/dressing. A special type of bandage is used for these injuries (as opposed to a band-aid or similar bandage). Typically a triangle bandage, t-shape bandage, or bandage tape is used for support. Any suspected fractures or dislocations can be supported in this manner until you see a doctor. Know when to seek medical attention. Bandaging minor wounds is appropriate for home treatment, but if you ever experience a serious wound, you should bandage it as a way to protect the wound until you can seek proper medical attention. If you're not sure whether your wound/injury constitutes a "serious injury," you should call your local nurse hotline and ask for advice. If you bandage a wound and it has still not begun to heal or causes significant pain after 24 hours, you should head to a doctor for help. If a wound is larger than 3cm, has loss of skin and/or involves underlying tissues, it is best to seek medical aid. Clean and treat wounds prior to bandaging. If you're not in an emergency situation or a rush, you should always take time to thoroughly clean a wound prior to bandaging it. Use water to rinse a wound clear of debris, and a soap or disinfectant to kill any bacteria. Pat the wound dry, and apply an antiseptic cream to prevent infection. The dressing and bandage should be applied over the top of this.< If there is any debris around the injury, use gauze to wipe away from the injury in a star pattern before rinsing. This helps keep the water from rinsing particulates into the wound. Use a strip bandage for small cuts. The most common type of bandage is a strip bandage — usually known as a Band-Aid, which is actually a brand name. These are best for use on small cuts and abrasions that occur on a flat surface. To apply, simply remove the wax-paper backing and position the gauze-portion over the wound. Use the sticky wings to secure the bandage, being careful not to pull them too tight or the bandage will peel off. Use a knuckle bandage for finger and toe wounds. A knuckle bandage is a special adhesive bandage shaped like an "H." This makes it easy to apply to cuts and abrasions between your fingers or toes. Peel off the wax paper backing and then position the wings to go between the fingers/toes, with the center piece located over the wound. This will help the bandage to stay in place for longer. This is important because wounds between the fingers and toes are in a frequently moved area of the body. Use a butterfly bandage for slices and cuts. A butterfly bandage can be recognized by two sticky adhesive strips connected by a thin, non-sticky strip of bandage. This style of bandage is used for keeping a cut closed, not for absorbing blood or preventing infection. If you have a slice or cut that can be "pulled apart," you may consider using a butterfly bandage. Peel off the backing, and then place the bandage so that the sticky parts are on either side of the cut. Pull the closure a bit tight to help close off the cut. The non-sticky center strip should be located directly over the wound. A piece of sterile gauze secured with tape should be placed over the butterfly closure for at least the first 24 hours to help prevent infection while the cut seals itself. Use gauze and adhesive tape to bandage a burn. If you experience a minor burn (symptoms including redness, swelling, slight pain, and the affected area is no larger than 3-inches wide), you can treat it at home with basic bandaging. Use a piece of sterile, ideally nonstick gauze (as even minor burns can blister or open unexpectedly), to cover the burn. Then, use adhesive bandage tape to secure the gauze in place. The adhesive bandage should not come in contact with the burn at all. Use moleskin to bandage a blister. Moleskin is a special type of foam-adhesive bandage used to prevent a blister from being rubbed. Moleskin is typically doughnut shaped, with a cut-out in the center for placement over the blister. Remove the backing of the moleskin round, and place it so that the blister sits inside the cut-out. This will prevent rubbing and relieve pressure. you can place a strip bandage over the top of the moleskin to prevent infection, should the blister pop. You can make your own makeshift moleskin by taking layers of gauze slightly taller the blister is high and cutting a hole out of them just a touch larger than the blister. Center this on the site, then add a piece of nonstick gauze overtop and tape in place. Use a pressure bandage. For serious cuts and abrasions, use a pressure bandage. A pressure bandage is a long piece of thin gauze with a thick piece of padded gauze located near one end. The padded gauze is placed over the wound and the thin strip is wrapped around it to apply pressure and secure it in place. This is best used to prevent heavy bleeding from a wide cut or abrasion. You can use adhesive tape to secure the end of the gauze in place. Use a doughnut bandage. You can use these bandages for impalements and puncture wounds. If you have a wound that contains a foreign object, like a shard of glass, a piece of wood, or a piece of metal, you need to use a doughnut bandage. A doughnut bandage is a thick, "O" shaped bandage that relieves pressure around an impaled object or deep puncture. Leave the impaled object in place (do not attempt to pull it out!) and place the bandage around it. Then, use adhesive gauze tape or gauze wrapped around the edges of the doughnut to hold it in place. Do not wrap any gauze or tape over the center of the doughnut where the impaled object is located. You can make your own doughnut bandage by rolling a triangle bandage/sling into a tight, snakelike coil, then making a loop the size required to support the impaled object. (Loop it around a finger, fingers or hand as a mold.) Then take the loose, coiled ends of the bandage and lace them though your loop, around the outer side and back through the loop. Tuck the tips of the bandage back into the doughnut shaped structure to secure them. In this way, you can make support structures for a wide range of injuries. Use a triangle bandage. To secure a dislocated or broken bone, a triangle bandage is ideal. This small-looking bandage unfolds into a large, triangle-shaped bandage. It is used by folding it into a shape, and then using it to support a fractured or dislocated bone. Fold the triangle up into a long rectangle and tie it in a loop to create a sling. Alternatively, you can wrap it around a splint/bone to provide support. The uses of the triangle bandage will vary based on the injury, so use your discretion. Use gauze rolls. To bandage second degree burns , use gauze rolls. Second degree burns cover an area wider than 3-inches and are blistered, red, swollen, and painful. While you should never attempt to bandage a third-degree burn , you should use gauze to bandage a second-degree burn. Wrap the sterile gauze loosely around the wound, and secure it with tape. The gauze will help block out irritants and infection, without cutting off circulation or applying pressure to the burn. Use a tensor bandage. On a deep cut or accidental amputation, tensor bandages are ideal. Tensor bandages are made of a thick elastic that helps to apply heavy pressure to severe bleeding. If you have a deep cut or accidental amputation , remove as much of the blood as possible, and then apply a thick layer of sterile gauze. Wrap the tensor bandage around the gauze to secure it in place and apply pressure to help minimize the bleeding. Try to position the injured area above the heart before bandaging, as this reduces blood flow and risk of shock. It also makes the tensor easier to apply.	Know when to use strip bandages. Choose a size. Remove the packaging. Place the gauze over the wound. Firmly attach the adhesive. Change regularly. Know when to use elastic/wrap bandages. Secure the gauze. Wrap the elastic bandage. Fasten the bandage. Change regularly. Understand the purpose of a bandage. Avoid bandaging too tightly. Use a bandage for breaks and dislocations. Know when to seek medical attention. Clean and treat wounds prior to bandaging. Use a strip bandage for small cuts. Use a knuckle bandage for finger and toe wounds. Use a butterfly bandage for slices and cuts. Use gauze and adhesive tape to bandage a burn. Use moleskin to bandage a blister. Use a pressure bandage. Use a doughnut bandage. Use a triangle bandage. Use gauze rolls. Use a tensor bandage.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Distance-Formula-to-Find-the-Length-of-a-Line	How to Use Distance Formula to Find the Length of a Line	To use the distance formula to find the length of a line, start by finding the coordinates of the line segment's endpoints. Then, plug the coordinates into the distance formula. Next, subtract the numbers in parenthesis and then square the differences. Once you've done that, just add the numbers that are under the radical sign and solve for d.	Set up the Distance Formula. The formula states that d = ( x 2 − x 1 ) 2 + ( y 2 − y 1 ) 2 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(x_{2}-x_{1})^{2}+(y_{2}-y_{1})^{2}}}} , where d {\displaystyle d} equals the distance of the line, ( x 1 , y 1 ) {\displaystyle (x_{1},y_{1})} equal the coordinates of the first endpoint of the line segment, and ( x 2 , y 2 ) {\displaystyle (x_{2},y_{2})} equal the coordinates of the second endpoint of the line segment. Find the coordinates of the line segment’s endpoints. These might already be given. If not, count along the x-axis and y-axis to find the coordinates. The x-axis is the horizontal axis; the y-axis is the vertical axis. The coordinates of a point are written as ( x , y ) {\displaystyle (x,y)}. For example, a line segment might have an endpoint at ( 2 , 1 ) {\displaystyle (2,1)} and another at ( 6 , 4 ) {\displaystyle (6,4)}. Plug the coordinates into the Distance Formula. Be careful to substitute the values for the correct variables. The two x {\displaystyle x} coordinates should be inside the first set of parentheses, and the two y {\displaystyle y} coordinates should be inside the second set of parentheses. For example, for points ( 2 , 1 ) {\displaystyle (2,1)} and ( 6 , 4 ) {\displaystyle (6,4)} , your formula would look like this: d = ( 6 − 2 ) 2 + ( 4 − 1 ) 2 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(6-2)^{2}+(4-1)^{2}}}} Calculate the subtraction in parentheses. By using the order of operations, any calculations in parentheses must be completed first. For example: d = ( 6 − 2 ) 2 + ( 4 − 1 ) 2 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(6-2)^{2}+(4-1)^{2}}}} d = ( 4 ) 2 + ( 3 ) 2 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(4)^{2}+(3)^{2}}}} Square the value in parentheses. The order of operations states that exponents should be addressed next. For example: d = ( 4 ) 2 + ( 3 ) 2 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {(4)^{2}+(3)^{2}}}} d = 16 + 9 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {16+9}}} Add the numbers under the radical sign. You do this calculation as if you were working with whole numbers. For example: d = 16 + 9 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {16+9}}} d = 25 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {25}}} Solve for d{\displaystyle d}. To reach your final answer, find the square root of the sum under the radical sign. Since you are finding a square root, you may have to round your answer. Since you are working on a coordinate plane, your answer will be in generic “units,” not in centimeters, meters, or another metric unit. For example: d = 25 {\displaystyle d={\sqrt {25}}} d = 5 {\displaystyle d=5} units	Set up the Distance Formula. Find the coordinates of the line segment’s endpoints. Plug the coordinates into the Distance Formula. Calculate the subtraction in parentheses. Square the value in parentheses. Add the numbers under the radical sign. Solve for d{\displaystyle d}.
https://www.wikihow.com/Open-a-Wine-Bottle-with-a-Shoe	How to Open a Wine Bottle with a Shoe	If you've forgotten to bring a corkscrew to open your wine, place the bottle in a shoe with a hard sole and strong sides, such as a man's dress shoe. Then, take hold of the neck of the bottle in your left hand, hold the toe of the shoe in your right hand, and bang the shoe's heel against a wall with a lot of force. As you bang the shoe, keep an eye on the cork and stop banging when it's about halfway out. Finish by removing the bottle from the shoe and wiggling the cork the rest of the way out with your hand.	Understand the concept behind this method. Simple physics provides an explanation of how this method works. For this method, you put the bottle of wine into the shoe and bang the shoe sole on a wall. The force from the banging will help to loosen the cork and it will start to come out. The force travels through the liquid and transfers to the cork. Since the liquid isn't free flowing inside the wine bottle, it acts like a solid and allows the force to transmit to the cork. Choose a shoe to work with. Don't use just any type of shoes, as anything with a soft sole or high heel won't work. The shoes you choose should have solid, hard soles. The opening in the shoe should fit a wine bottle nicely. Make sure the shoes are a good sturdy pair. Shoes that are old and flimsy won't allow the force from the banging to transmit to the wine bottle well. Men's dress shoes tend to work very well for this method. Avoid trying this method with athletic shoes or high heels. These shoes won't work well for a number of reasons. Athletic shoes have cushioned rubber soles that absorb force. The soles of athletic shoes are often too padded to transmit force into the wine bottle. High heels don't have enough surface area on the sole to transmit enough force. They may also snap when you bang the heel against the wall. Remove the plastic sheathing or foil around the top of the wine bottle. Many wine bottles have a small tab you can pull to remove this. If you leave the foil or plastic top on the bottle, then the cork won't be able to slide out. It's not necessary to peel all of it off. Just make sure the top of the cork is fully exposed and that the wine bottle covering isn't impeding it. Place the wine bottle in the shoe. There is no need to pad the bottle if the shoe is loose around the bottle. Remember, you want to use shoes with a hard sole and sturdy sides. Don't use tennis or athletic shoes. Men's dress shoes are recommended. Bang the bottle and sole of the shoe against a brick or stone wall. This requires a good deal of force. Hold the neck of the wine bottle in your left hand. Grasp it firmly. Don't put your thumb, fingers, or palms over the cork. Hold the toe end of the shoe in your right hand. Bang the heel end of the shoe against the wall, holding the wine bottle in firmly. Bang the shoe against the wall with a lot of force. Watch to see if the cork begins to slide out. It should do so more with each bang. Once the cork is out about halfway, stop banging. Remove the wine bottle from the shoe. Wiggle the cork the rest of the way out using your hands.	Understand the concept behind this method. Choose a shoe to work with. Avoid trying this method with athletic shoes or high heels. Remove the plastic sheathing or foil around the top of the wine bottle. Place the wine bottle in the shoe. Bang the bottle and sole of the shoe against a brick or stone wall. Watch to see if the cork begins to slide out.
https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Wall-is-Load-Bearing	How to Tell if a Wall is Load Bearing	To tell if a wall is load bearing, examine the building's blueprints to see where the original support beams were built. If you don't have a copy of your blueprints, check your local county clerk's office. Internal walls near the center of a building often help to support the weight of the house. You may also be able to use a stud-finder to locate any beams which run down into your foundation or up through multiple floors of your home, which indicate that a wall is likely load-bearing. If you're still not sure, call a building inspector to come and evaluate your home.	Start at the lowest point in your house. To begin determining which walls in your house are load-bearing ones, it's best to start at the most basic load-bearing feature of any home - the foundation. If your house has a basement, start here. If not, try to start wherever on the first floor you can locate your house's lower concrete "slab." Once you've reached your house's lowest point, look for walls whose beams go directly into the concrete foundation. Your house's load bearing walls transfer their structural strain into a sturdy concrete foundation, so any walls that interface directly with the foundation should be assumed to be load bearing walls and should not be removed. Additionally, most home's exterior walls are load bearing. You should see this at the foundation level - whether wood, stone, or brick, nearly all exterior walls will extend right into the concrete. Locate the beams. Begin to look for thick, sturdy pieces of wood or metal called beams. These account for the majority of your house's load, which they transfer into the foundation. Beams often stretch through multiple floors and thus can be parts of multiple walls. If your beam spans from the foundation through any wall above it, the wall is load bearing and should not be removed. Except for in unfinished rooms, most beams will be behind drywall, so be ready to consult construction documents or contact the builder if you cannot find them. Beams are often easiest to find in an unfinished basement (or attic) where portions of the structure are exposed. Look for floor joists. Look at the point where a beam meets the ceiling (if you're in the basement, this will be the underside of the first floor of your home, while if you're on the first floor, this will be the underside of the second floor). You should see long supports spanning the length of the ceiling which are called floor joists because they support the floor of the room above. If any of these joists meet a wall or a main support beam at a perpendicular angle, they are transferring the weight of the floor above into the wall and, thus, the wall is load bearing and should not be removed. Again, because most walls' supports are behind drywall, they can't be seen. To determine whether certain floor joists in your house run perpendicular to a given wall, you may need to remove a number of floorboards in the floor above the wall so you have an unimpeded view to look down at the supports. Follow internal walls up through your structure. Starting at the basement (or, if you don't have one, the first floor), locate your internal walls, which, as you can probably guess, are the walls inside your four external walls. Follow each internal wall up through the floors of your home - in other words, locate exactly where a wall is on a lower floor, then go to the floor above that spot to see whether the wall stretches through two floors. Pay attention to what is directly above the wall. If there is another wall, a floor with perpendicular joists, or other heavy construction above it, it is probably a load bearing wall. However, if there is an unfinished space like an empty attic without a full floor, the wall probably is not bearing a load. Check for internal walls near the center of the house. The bigger a house is, the farther apart its load bearing exterior walls will be and, thus, the more load bearing internal walls there will need to be to support the floor. Often, these load bearing walls are roughly near the center of the house because the center of the house is the farthest point from any of the exterior walls. Look for an internal wall that's near the relative center of your house. There's a good chance this wall is load bearing, especially if it runs parallel to a central basement support beam. Look for internal walls with large ends. Internal load bearing walls can incorporate the house's main support beams into the construction of the wall itself. However, because these support beams are relatively large compared to non-load bearing studs, often, the wall itself will be designed to accommodate the extra size of the beam. If an internal wall has a large boxy section or an enlarged column at its end, this may be concealing a main structural support beam, a sign that the wall is load bearing. Some of these structural features may appear decorative, but be skeptical - often, painted columns or narrow, embellished wooden structures can conceal beams that are highly important for a building's structural integrity. Look for steel girders or post and beam construction. Sometimes, rather than rely on load bearing interior walls, builders use special load-bearing structures like steel support girders and and post and beam constructions to transfer part or all of a building's weight to the exterior walls. In these cases, there is a chance (but not a guarantee) that nearby interior walls may not be load bearing. Look for the signs of big, sturdy wooden or metal structures crossing a room's ceiling and intersecting a wall that you know is load bearing or an external wall, like boxy horizontal protrusions crossing the ceiling. If you see these, nearby internal walls may not be load bearing. This method can give you a clue of where non-load bearing walls might be, but you can't be sure without checking the walls themselves. If you're unsure, check with the builder to be sure that this was the type of construction used. Look for evidence that the house has been modified. Many houses, especially old ones, have been modified, expanded, and remodeled several times. If this is the case with your house, a former external wall may now be an internal wall. If so, this innocuous-looking internal wall can be load bearing for the original structure. If you have any reason to believe your house has been significantly modified, it's best to contact the original builder, just to be sure that your external walls are your real external walls. Find the original building plans, if they are available to you. Depending on the construction of your house, it may be impossible to accurately guess which walls are load bearing and which are not. In this case, your house's original blueprints or building plans can be a valuable resource. A house's blueprints can give you an idea of where support beams lie, which walls were the original exterior walls, and more. You can use this information to inform your decisions when it comes to designating certain walls as load bearing. It's not at all uncommon for homeowners not to possess a copy of their home's original blueprints. Luckily, blueprints for your home may be found: At the county clerk's office In the possession of the original owners In the possession of the original builder and/or contracting company Finally, it's possible to commission a re-drawing of your home's blueprint from an architect. This, however, can be costly. Study your blueprints. Procure your house's original blueprint and invest an appropriate amount of time in determining whether a wall you're not sure about is load bearing. Look for the clues listed above - does it contain a major support beam? Are floor joists connected parallel to it? Was it an original external wall? Never tear down a wall until you're confident it's not load bearing, as even experienced home improvement experts can't always tell where a load bearing wall is solely based on visual cues. See wikiHow's guide on reading architectural drawings for more information. Understand the effect of modifications to the home. Generally, the more renovations your home has had, the harder it will be to tell which walls are load bearing and which are not. During home renovations, non-load bearing walls can be made to bear weight (and vice versa). For instance, hanging or cutting ceiling joists, adding stairways, and adding attic rooms usually require the changing of non-load bearing walls to load bearing walls. Take these changes into account when deciding which walls are load bearing - if your blueprints show walls that don't exist anymore or you see walls in your home which don't appear in the blueprint, figure out what kinds of modifications have been done before proceeding. If you're unsure about your home's history of renovations, contact previous owners and builders for more information. Call the original builder, if you can. The person (or company) that built your house can clue you in on the exact structure of the house. If construction was recent, they may not even charge you for a quick call or consultation. Even if they do, keep in mind that a relatively small fee is nothing compared to the disastrous structural damage that can result from tearing down a load bearing wall. Call a building inspector if you have any doubts. If you can't figure out which walls are load bearing and no one you call seems to know, you may want to hire a professional building inspector. Paying for an hour of a building inspector's time is definitely worth it if you want to remodel safely. Home inspections typically cost several hundred dollars. This rate can vary depending on the market and the size of the house - some high-end estimates can be as high as $1,000. Hire a home remodel consultant. Some independent companies offer their services to help would-be home improvers decide how to proceed with their project. These companies may employee construction managers, interior decorators, and other experienced home improvement experts. When it comes to modifying a wall that you're not sure is load bearing, these companies may be able to tell you what changes are possible, what changes are unsafe, or even answer the question of whether the wall is load bearing or not outright. If you're interested in this route, research companies in your area online to ensure you pick a credible, reliable company. Above all, use caution. Avoid removing a wall yourself unless you are extremely confident it is not bearing a load. As stated before, removing a load bearing wall can cause structural weakening and even potentially life-threatening structural collapse. Keep in mind that renovations are semi-permanent, so removing non-load bearing walls may change what additions you can make to your home in the future.	Start at the lowest point in your house. Locate the beams. Look for floor joists. Follow internal walls up through your structure. Check for internal walls near the center of the house. Look for internal walls with large ends. Look for steel girders or post and beam construction. Look for evidence that the house has been modified. Find the original building plans, if they are available to you. Study your blueprints. Understand the effect of modifications to the home. Call the original builder, if you can. Call a building inspector if you have any doubts. Hire a home remodel consultant. Above all, use caution.
https://www.wikihow.com/Divide-Complex-Numbers	How to Divide Complex Numbers	When you're dividing complex numbers, or numbers written in the form z = a plus b times i, write the 2 complex numbers as a fraction. Find the complex conjugate of the denominator, also called the z-bar, by reversing the sign of the imaginary number, or i, in the denominator. Multiply the numerator and denominator by this complex conjugate, then simplify and separate the result into real and imaginary components.	Begin with the ratio. In this section, we will show how to divide two complex numbers and show why it works. 2 + 3 i 3 + 6 i {\displaystyle {\frac {2+3i}{3+6i}}} Find the complex conjugate of the denominator. The complex conjugate z ¯ , {\displaystyle {\bar {z}},} pronounced "z-bar," is simply the complex number with the sign of the imaginary part reversed. For example, the conjugate of the number 3 + 6 i {\displaystyle 3+6i} is 3 − 6 i. {\displaystyle 3-6i.} Multiply the numerator and denominator by this complex conjugate. The reason why this works is that for any complex number z , {\displaystyle z,} multiplying it by its conjugate yields a real number z z ¯ = ( a + b i ) ( a − b i ) = a 2 + b 2 , {\displaystyle z{\bar {z}}=(a+bi)(a-bi)=a^{2}+b^{2},} because a {\displaystyle a} and b {\displaystyle b} are both real. The i's are then removed from the denominator. Remember that we are really multiplying by 1, so both the top and bottom must be multiplied by the same number. The process and reasoning is similar to that of rationalizing the denominator. 2 + 3 i 3 + 6 i ⋅ 3 − 6 i 3 − 6 i = 6 + 9 i − 12 i + 18 9 + 36 = 24 − 3 i 45 {\displaystyle {\frac {2+3i}{3+6i}}\cdot {\frac {3-6i}{3-6i}}={\frac {6+9i-12i+18}{9+36}}={\frac {24-3i}{45}}} Remember that i 2 = − 1. {\displaystyle i^{2}=-1.} This means that you need to pay close attention to the signs. Simplify and separate the result into real and imaginary components. We now have a fraction with a real number in the denominator, so all that's left is to put it in the form a + b i. {\displaystyle a+bi.} 24 − 3 i 45 = 8 − i 15 = 8 15 − 1 15 i {\displaystyle {\frac {24-3i}{45}}={\frac {8-i}{15}}={\frac {8}{15}}-{\frac {1}{15}}i} Review rectangular graphs of complex numbers. You may have already learned how to graph a complex number on the complex plane. The horizontal axis denotes the real axis, while the vertical axis is the imaginary axis. Above is a graph of an arbitrary complex number on the complex plane. It is important to understand what these graphs mean, because the nature of complex numbers means that we can draw tight connections between their algebraic properties (as shown in part 1) and their geometrical properties. Understand polar coordinates. In polar coordinates, we denote points with two variables r {\displaystyle r} and θ , {\displaystyle \theta ,} where r {\displaystyle r} is the distance from the pole and θ {\displaystyle \theta } is the angle from the polar axis. In the context of complex numbers, the magnitude of the number is called the modulus, while its angle from the polar axis is called its argument. Recall the coordinate conversions from Cartesian to polar. x = r cos ⁡ θ {\displaystyle x=r\cos \theta } y = r sin ⁡ θ {\displaystyle y=r\sin \theta } We can therefore write any complex number on the complex plane as z = r ( cos ⁡ θ + i sin ⁡ θ ). {\displaystyle z=r(\cos \theta +i\sin \theta ).} Using Euler's formula, we can compact this to z = r e i θ. {\displaystyle z=re^{i\theta }.} In this section, we will show that dealing with complex numbers in polar form is vastly simpler than dealing with them in Cartesian form. Begin with the ratio. Let's do a different example. 3 + 3 i 2 + 2 3 i {\displaystyle {\frac {3+3i}{2+2{\sqrt {3}}i}}} Convert your complex numbers to polar form. If your numbers are already in polar form, skip this step. Otherwise, use the relations below. r = a 2 + b 2 {\displaystyle r={\sqrt {a^{2}+b^{2}}}} θ = tan − 1 ⁡ ( b a ) {\displaystyle \theta =\tan ^{-1}\left({\frac {b}{a}}\right)} In our example, we have two complex numbers to convert to polar. Let's label them as z 1 z 2 {\displaystyle {\frac {z_{1}}{z_{2}}}} and use the notation z = r e i θ. {\displaystyle z=re^{i\theta }.} z 1 = 3 + 3 i = 3 2 e i π / 4 {\displaystyle z_{1}=3+3i=3{\sqrt {2}}e^{i\pi /4}} z 2 = 2 + 2 3 i = 4 e i π / 3 {\displaystyle z_{2}=2+2{\sqrt {3}}i=4e^{i\pi /3}} Divide the two complex numbers. When we write out the numbers in polar form, we find that all we need to do is to divide the magnitudes and subtract the angles. Likewise, when we multiply two complex numbers in polar form, we multiply the magnitudes and add the angles. z 1 z 2 = 3 2 e i π / 4 4 e i π / 3 = 3 2 4 e i ( π 4 − π 3 ) = 3 2 4 e − i π / 12 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}{\frac {z_{1}}{z_{2}}}={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}e^{i\pi /4}}{4e^{i\pi /3}}}&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}e^{i\left({\frac {\pi }{4}}-{\frac {\pi }{3}}\right)}\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}e^{-i\pi /12}\end{aligned}}} Convert back to Cartesian coordinates. Use the following relations. Our angle is θ = − π 12 , {\displaystyle \theta =-{\frac {\pi }{12}},} which is not typically shown on the unit circle. You can either use a calculator or find the exact values of cos ⁡ ( − π 12 ) {\displaystyle \cos \left(-{\frac {\pi }{12}}\right)} and sin ⁡ ( − π 12 ) {\displaystyle \sin \left(-{\frac {\pi }{12}}\right)} using trigonometric summation identities. Below, we use the identities to write the components in exact form. Such identities are available online or in textbooks. a = r cos ⁡ θ {\displaystyle a=r\cos {\theta }} b = r sin ⁡ θ {\displaystyle b=r\sin {\theta }} a = 3 2 4 cos ⁡ ( − π 12 ) = 3 2 4 cos ⁡ ( π 4 − π 3 ) = 3 2 4 ( cos ⁡ π 4 cos ⁡ π 3 + sin ⁡ π 4 sin ⁡ π 3 ) = 3 2 4 ( 2 2 ⋅ 1 2 + 2 2 ⋅ 3 2 ) = 3 2 4 ⋅ 2 + 6 4 = 3 + 3 3 8 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}a&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\cos \left(-{\frac {\pi }{12}}\right)\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\cos \left({\frac {\pi }{4}}-{\frac {\pi }{3}}\right)\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\left(\cos {\frac {\pi }{4}}\cos {\frac {\pi }{3}}+\sin {\frac {\pi }{4}}\sin {\frac {\pi }{3}}\right)\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\left({\frac {\sqrt {2}}{2}}\cdot {\frac {1}{2}}+{\frac {\sqrt {2}}{2}}\cdot {\frac {\sqrt {3}}{2}}\right)\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\cdot {\frac {{\sqrt {2}}+{\sqrt {6}}}{4}}\\&={\frac {3+3{\sqrt {3}}}{8}}\end{aligned}}} b = 3 2 4 sin ⁡ ( − π 12 ) = 3 2 4 ⋅ 2 − 6 4 = 3 − 3 3 8 {\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}b&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\sin \left(-{\frac {\pi }{12}}\right)\\&={\frac {3{\sqrt {2}}}{4}}\cdot {\frac {{\sqrt {2}}-{\sqrt {6}}}{4}}\\&={\frac {3-3{\sqrt {3}}}{8}}\end{aligned}}} Write out the complex number in standard form. While the above conversions took quite a few steps, it is important to recognize that the act of converting from one coordinate system to another is where the "difficult" part is. When dealing with complex numbers purely in polar, the operations of multiplication, division, and even exponentiation (cf. De Moivres' formula) are very easy to do. 3 + 3 3 8 + 3 − 3 3 8 i {\displaystyle {\frac {3+3{\sqrt {3}}}{8}}+{\frac {3-3{\sqrt {3}}}{8}}i}	Begin with the ratio. Find the complex conjugate of the denominator. Multiply the numerator and denominator by this complex conjugate. Simplify and separate the result into real and imaginary components. Review rectangular graphs of complex numbers. Understand polar coordinates. Begin with the ratio. Convert your complex numbers to polar form. Divide the two complex numbers. Convert back to Cartesian coordinates. Write out the complex number in standard form.
https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Coupons	How to Use Coupons	To use coupons, start by looking for them in magazines, newspapers, in-store, or online. Then, hold onto your coupons until something you want goes on sale since using a coupon on a discounted item will get you the best deal. You can also save more money by using multiple coupons on the same item. Even if a coupon says "limit 1 per customer," you can usually use a different type of coupon meant for the same item to double your savings.	Find deals in store. Coupons can be found in a variety of different places, so keep an eye out for offers and give-aways which might include coupons. You might find them on the shelves, at the registers, or at the entrance. Look out for members of staff handing out coupons to customers as they enter or leave the store. Always check your receipt when you leave the store. Sometimes your receipt will act as a coupon and entitle you to a discount on your next shop. Look for coupons in magazines and newspapers. Some of the best places to look for coupons are magazines and newspapers. Local newspapers in particular will often have coupons for your local stores. Weekend editions of newspapers can be the best bet, especially the larger Sunday edition. You can find coupons in a wide variety of magazines, but the coupons are likely to be related to the focus of the magazine. For example, a magazine about homes and decoration is the best bet to find a coupon for a hardware or DIY store. A magazine about health and fitness might have a coupon for sportswear. Find coupons online. Online coupons, or "eCoupons," are increasingly popular and well-established. There are large websites entirely dedicated to couponing, which you will be able to find easily through a search engine. There is a broad range, so try to tailor your search to the specific type of coupon you are looking for. Online coupons are not accepted everywhere, so check the details before you try to use them. Your favourite grocery or superstore may have digital or printable coupons, so be sure to check store websites directly. As well as printable coupons, you will sometimes find online codes which you can use when you make a purchase online. Sign up for regular alerts. You can sign up for coupons to be regularly sent to you as part of a loyalty of reward card scheme run by many major retailers. Sign up for a rewards card with your local grocery or drugstore. In addition to discounted prices, you'll receive coupons at the checkout. Certain stores monitor the products you buy and send you personalized coupons in the mail based on your purchasing history. You can often also register your email address with the stores you frequent. When offers become available, you'll be alerted. Many big stores and large chains have apps that will give you possibilities for more coupons and special offers. Know when to use your coupons. To really get the best deal you need to determine the best time to use your coupons. This could mean a particular time of year for seasonal goods, or when there is already a sale on. The benefits of using a coupon are compounded if you use them when something has already been discounted. Wait for a sale, especially if you are buying an expensive one-off purchase. Follow sales cycles so you know when the prices of particular goods are likely to be reduced. If you are buying something seasonal, buying off-season can mean a cheaper price. For example, a warm woollen jumper will often be on sale in the Spring. Know how to use your coupons. Being familiar with the fine print can save you some hassle at the register, as well as allowing you to budget accordingly. Start by determining whether it is a "manufacturer's" or "store" coupon. Manufacturer's coupons come from the company or manufacturer of the specific product and are accepted in any store. Store coupons are only accepted in the specifically listed store(s). Ensure the barcode on the coupon is not ripped or damaged as this might prevent the cashier scanning it, and render it invalid. Determine the limits on the use of coupons. Often there will be clear limits and restrictions on how you use specific coupons. Check the detail and find out if you are limited to one coupon per specific item, or perhaps one coupon per transaction. If your coupon is not limited, you may be able to use a number of coupons in the same transaction to increase your discount. If your coupon says "Limit one coupon per specified item(s)," you may only use one coupon when you buy the product. If your coupon says "Limit one coupon per transaction," you will only be able to use that specific coupon in the transaction. Be sure to check the expiration date so you know at what point the coupon will become invalid. Stack your coupons. Though many coupons may say "limit 1 per customer," this often only applies to the type of coupon. Sometimes you can use a manufacturer's coupon in addition to a store coupon to double your savings. Stacking coupons like this can really make a dent in the price of a product. For example, if you buying a new TV you can use a coupon from the company that made the TV together with a coupon from the store you are buying it in. You can also stack coupons for smaller everyday items such as groceries. Be sure to check the eligibility criteria and fine print on the coupons before you try to use them. It's also a good idea to go online and read the coupon policy for the store you want to use them in. Stockpile coupons. Just because you don't need something now, doesn't mean you won't need it later. Stockpiling coupons and keeping an organised collection will help you get the absolute most out of them. Get a binder and keep all you coupons together. You can organise them by type of product, or by store. You could also organize them by expiry date so you have a clear picture of which coupons are due to expire soon. If you want to increase your stockpile you could tell friends and neighbours that you are collecting coupons. Use a coupon in store. Search for the specific item in the store. For instance, some coupons will say, "on any flavor or variety," while others will provide a specific list of items you can redeem the coupon with. Make sure that you give your coupons in the right order. Some coupons may render other coupons void, so make sure you've stacked them correctly. If you have a coupon that has a required purchase amount, such as $5 off when you spend $50, give that one first. That way, any discounts you receive with additional coupons will not penalize you in reaching the necessary amount. Be sure to read the fine print. Some coupons may only be used after all coupons have been deducted. If in doubt, ask your cashier for deals. He may have a value guide at the register or know of specific discounts on items you are about to purchase. Shop strategically. To get the best value from your coupons, you need to avoid impulse buying and plan out what you will buy and when. If you avoid using coupons on full price items, are happy to switch brands according to what coupons you have, and don't just pick up anything that is on sale, you will set yourself up for the best savings. Know what you are going to buy before you go in store and try to stick to your plan. If you have an opportunity to buy large quantities of non-perishable goods, make the most of it. Pay with an online discount code. If you are buying something online and have a discount code that you can apply to the purchase, be sure to have the code written down or saved somewhere accessible. Using the code is fairly straight-forward, but can vary from website to website. In most instances you will be prompted to enter any discount code you have when you fill in your payment details. Pay close attention as the discount code box might be small or not immediately visible on screen. Before you complete the purchase, be sure to check that the discount has been applied to the amount you are being charged.	Find deals in store. Look for coupons in magazines and newspapers. Find coupons online. Sign up for regular alerts. Know when to use your coupons. Know how to use your coupons. Determine the limits on the use of coupons. Stack your coupons. Stockpile coupons. Use a coupon in store. Shop strategically. Pay with an online discount code.
https://www.wikihow.pet/Bond-with-a-Lovebird	How to Bond with a Lovebird	Lovebirds are usually affectionate pets, but it can take a little time for them to bond with you. Before you handle your bird, give it a week or 2 to settle in and get comfortable so you don't overwhelm it. During this time you can still speak calmly and lovingly to it a few times a day. When your bird feels more comfortable, slowly and gently pick your bird up with soft, cupped hands. Try hand-feeding it to earn its trust. You can use its regular food or a piece of fruit. Try to spend at least 10 minutes holding your bird each day, which will give it time to bond with you. You can talk to it softly, jiggle its favorite toy in front of it, or simply look in the mirror together since birds love mirrors!	Give new birds time to adjust to their new home. New pets may feel overwhelmed by the change in their environment that comes with moving into your house. Whether it's a new space or a new cage, give your pet a week or two to get settled in your home before attempting to handle it. Don't ignore your bird during this time. Speak calmly and lovingly to it and spend a few minutes near its cage several times throughout the day. Spend at least 10 minutes a day with your lovebird. Make some time every day to hang out with your lovebird. The more time you spend with your bird, the more it will see you as a friend. Especially if you're often at work or school, it may take a new pet a while to feel as though it can trust you. Carve out 10 minutes every night to focus solely on your bird. Play together on the floor or simply talk. While you need to spend at least 10 minutes a day with your bird to bond with it, it's best to spend longer amounts of time with your lovebird. Lovebirds are a bit like people in this regard. It's hard to trust someone you don't know. Spending time together allows your lovebird to become your friend. Touch the lovebird slowly and gently. Handle your lovebird gently and with care when you remove it from the cage or when it perches on your finger. If the bird does not want to be touched or held, do not force contact. Always treat your bird with respect, which will allow it space to get to know you. If you pick up the bird from the floor, do so with soft, cupped hands. Do not squeeze your bird or hold it tightly. Hand-feed your lovebird to encourage it to interact with you. Use some of your lovebird's food, a piece of fruit, or some millet seed to feed your lovebird from your hand. Because adult birds often feed their baby birds, this helps the bird to see you in a trusting, parental way. Building trust like this helps your bird feel more comfortable with you. If you're not sure what type of food your lovebird enjoys, try different treats until you find one that your bird can't resist. Handle your bird often so it grows comfortable with you. Once your bird is accustomed to being touched, take it out to play a few times a day. You can jingle a favorite toy or look in the mirror together. The more you handle your bird and spend time together, the more it will see you as a caring and trusted friend. Spend time playing and relaxing with your bird. For instance, you might spend 15-20 minutes playing games with your bird. Then, you might let your bird rest on your hand or lap while you watch TV. Talk to your bird in a calm, soothing manner. Don't yell at your lovebird even if you feel frustrated. Speaking in calm, quiet tones reassures your bird and makes it feel safe. Using a soothing voice will help your lovebird feel more confident as it gets to know you. Talk to your bird often, as birds are sociable. When you adopt a pet bird, you become its flock. Be patient because it takes time to build trust. Bonding with your lovebird may take some time. Relationships don't happen overnight, and it may take some time for your bird to learn to trust you. Go slow and try not to be discouraged as you get to know one another. Go to a new room together to encourage your bird to interact with you. Take your lovebird to a new space away from its cage to get to know it. When the cage is around, your lovebird may naturally retreat to its home when confronted with a new activity or request from you. Moving the bird to a new space makes it more likely that you, the familiar person, will become its “home base” in the new room, increasing your bond. For instance, you might take your bird to your bedroom. Turn off the ceiling fan if you have one, as your bird could fly into it. Make the room quiet so your bird will relax. Minimize loud sounds such as other pets or children as you get to know your lovebird. A quiet environment is less stressful for your bird and will help it feel at ease as you get to know each other. Turn off the TV or radio, and keep other people and pets away from the room. Dim the lights so your bird won’t feel stressed. Turn down the lights in the room where you're getting to know each other. Bright lights can be stressful for your bird, so dimming your lighting creates a low-stress environment for you to become friendly. You can try lamps instead of overhead lights or put your main lights on a dimmer. Get a cage with a door wide enough for your hand and your bird to pass through. The door shouldn't be large, but you do want to be able to remove your lovebird using your hand. A small opening may make your lovebird feel cornered or uncomfortable. A door that is too large may allow your bird to escape. The minimum cage dimensions for lovebirds should be 24 inches (61 cm) L by 18 inches (46 cm) W by 24 inches (61 cm) H. The bars should be spaced a minimum of.5 inches (1.3 cm) apart. It's best to get a rectangular cage with a longer length because it allows your bird to fly around the cage. Provide your lovebird with toys. Choose toys that are made specifically for birds when selecting playthings for your lovebird. Lovebirds in particular love sound-based toys, so a bell may help you bond. Look for a variety of toys that are made for birds, including wooden toys, ropes, and non-toxic plastic toys. Additionally, provide your bird with multiple sizes of wooden perches, such as those made from olive wood or an orange tree. Keep multiple sets of toys so you can rotate them out every 1-2 weeks. Birds are really intelligent and need constant engagement, and they'll get bored of their toys quickly. Keeping sets of toys lets you provide your bird with stimulating toys without having to constantly purchase new ones. Teach your lovebird to talk. Use words and phrases to describe your lovebird's favorite foods or actions, so your lovebird can begin to pick up language. Whenever you enter your lovebird's room, say “hi,” for example, or when you leave, say “bye.” You can also name a favorite toy, “mirror,” or food, “banana,” as you offer it. Doing this will help your lovebird learn words and become closer to you. Teach your bird to dance. Choose a flat surface, such as a bench, and stick to that spot to train a dance trick. Put on some upbeat music and see what your bird likes. If your bird seems to respond positively to a song, use that tune to teach your bird to dance. Imitation helps birds learn, so shake your hips and bop back and forth. Eventually your bird will follow suit. Reward any dance-like behaviors with treats and affection to reinforce your new trick. If your bird seems distracted or isn't in the mood to learn, don't force the issue. Place it back in its cage and try again in 15 minutes. Address any aggressive behavior. Sometimes lovebirds may bite to show their displeasure. To reroute this behavior and encourage a more positive relationship, use distraction. If your lovebird bites you, firmly tell it, “No,” without shouting. Then, put your bird down and let it fly around or sit on a wooden perch until it relaxes. Don't yell at your bird or try to punish it. This will just make it afraid of you, which will likely make it act more aggressively in the future. Baby lovebirds may use their beaks to explore without specifically biting. This is natural behavior that should not be discouraged.	Give new birds time to adjust to their new home. Spend at least 10 minutes a day with your lovebird. Touch the lovebird slowly and gently. Hand-feed your lovebird to encourage it to interact with you. Handle your bird often so it grows comfortable with you. Talk to your bird in a calm, soothing manner. Be patient because it takes time to build trust. Go to a new room together to encourage your bird to interact with you. Make the room quiet so your bird will relax. Dim the lights so your bird won’t feel stressed. Get a cage with a door wide enough for your hand and your bird to pass through. Provide your lovebird with toys. Teach your lovebird to talk. Teach your bird to dance. Address any aggressive behavior.
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Gastroenteritis-(Stomach-Flu)	How to Treat Gastroenteritis (Stomach Flu)	While there's no cure for the stomach flu, there are easy ways to ease your symptoms. Laying down in a curled up position can help ease your stomach discomfort. If you can handle fluids, try soothing your belly with ginger ale or peppermint tea, which can soothe your digestive tract. You can also sip on water enhanced with electrolytes, like Pedialyte, Gatorade, Powerade, or coconut water, which will help your body rehydrate and make up for some of the lost vitamins and minerals. When liquids feel too heavy, suck on small ice chips to rehydrate yourself. When you're ready to start eating again, try the BRAT diet, which is made up of bananas, rice, apples, and toast.	Notice if you are experiencing the common symptoms of gastroenteritis. The stomach flu is a combination of gastrointestinal troubles and common flu symptoms like fever and nausea. You may be experiencing gastroenteritis if you experience any of the following: Non-bloody diarrhea. Nausea. Vomiting. Abdominal cramps. Mild fever around 100-degrees F. Headache or dizziness. Physical aching or tiredness. Have your doctor run a stool sample. A simple stool sample test can determine whether or not you are experiencing a rotavirus or norovirus. Your doctor may also test for bacterial and parasitic infections. Lay down. Often laying down and/or curling into a fetal position can feel more comfortable when you are experiencing gastrointestinal pain. Soothe your stomach with ginger ale or peppermint tea. Peppermint reduces spasms in the stomach that lead to vomiting and soothes the overall digestive tract. If drinking ginger ale, make sure to choose a variety make with real ginger. Ginger has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe your stomach. You may also chop up fresh ginger and allow it to steep in hot water for about 10 minutes before drinking. Hydrate yourself. A common cause of gastroenteritis is dehydration. Make sure to intake 3 liters (0.8 US gal) of water per day for men and 2.2 liters (0.6 US gal) of water per day for women. Drink water enhanced with electrolytes such as Pedialyte, Gatorade, Powerade, or coconut water, especially if you are vomiting or experiencing diarrhea. This will help your body make up the vitamins and minerals it might have lost during that time. Take oral rehydration salts if you are prone to dehydration. These are available at your pharmacy and replace glucose and other essential minerals that you lose when you are dehydrated. Do not drink fruit juice or milk if you are experiencing gastroenteritis. The sugar in fruit juices and the dairy in milk can be upsetting to sensitive or allergic stomachs. Consult a medical professional if your dehydration does not improve or worsens, you may need to be started on a fluid IV. Eat ice chips. Chop up ice in a plastic bag with a meat mallet or a hammer until it is in little chips. If you have an ice maker, simply set it to the chipped ice setting. Suck on small ice chips to rehydrate yourself and bring your temperature down if you are experiencing a fever. Avoid solid foods. While you are experiencing the worst symptoms of gastroenteritis such as vomiting, stop eating solid foods for a day or two. If you choose to stop eating solid foods, make sure you are still receiving the proper nourishment to allow your body to heal itself. Drink a product such as Ensure, which is rich in the vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes needed to nourish your body. When you resume eating solid foods, do so gradually. If you immediately rush back into consuming a hamburger, for instance, your body will likely be shocked and you will end up with an upset stomach. Start off with relatively bland foods such as crackers, toast, gelatin, bananas, rice and chicken. Try the BRAT diet immediately after an episode. The BRAT diet outlines a diet composed of bananas, rice, apples and toast for up to two days following an experience of gastroenteritis. These four foods are rich in fiber and are very easy to digest. While is it not a sustainable diet for continued use, it is highly desirable following a bout of gastroenteritis. Common variations of the diet include adding yogurt and tea. Purchase an over-the-counter stomach aid. Certain indigestion medications may help with the symptoms of gastroenteritis. Some common medications include Pepcid, Maalox, and Pepto Bismol. These medications will only truly help if you are experiencing indigestion, acid reflux, or excess gas, but they can help calm your stomach. Avoid taking pain medications, as these can further upset and damage your stomach lining. Be especially wary of taking medications that contain ibuprofen, which is known to be particularly hard on the stomach. Always be aware of any drug allergies that you have before taking medication and only mix medications if the labels denote that doing so is appropriate for your symptoms. Consult a doctor or a nurse advice line if you are unsure about a certain medication. Wait it out. Ultimately, there is no real cure for gastroenteritis, but don't be discouraged, it will pass. Gastroenteritis usually passes through your system within two to three days, but can last for up to 10 days. If symptoms do not subside, consider consulting a medical professional. Consult a doctor to obtain prescription medication. If none of the non-prescription medications or immediate home remedies are easing your symptoms, consider contacting a doctor and obtain prescription-strength medication. Commonly prescribed medications for reducing vomiting include (Phenergan), prochlorperazine (Compazine) and ondansetron (Zofran). They are often prescribed as suppositories or administered through an IV to avoid the possibility of the patient vomiting the pills after taking them. To reduce diarrhea, your doctor may prescribe diphenoxylate and atropine (Lomotil) or loperamide (Imodium). Visit a medical professional if symptoms do not improve. Common symptoms of gastroenteritis can also be indicators of more serious gastrointestinal diseases. Common treatments for gastrointestinal disorders include antibiotics, steroids, and immunosuppressant medications. Accurate diagnosis is extremely important when treating gastrointestinal disorders. Be sure to visit a gastrointestinal doctor and undergo the appropriate testing in order to receive a proper diagnosis. Get a vaccine. In some countries, a vaccine against rotavirus is available for children. Children under one year old can be administered the vaccine. In most cases, the rotavirus vaccine will prevent a child from experiencing severe symptoms of gastroenteritis throughout his or her life. Practice good hygiene. Use hand sanitizer often. Always wash your hands after going to the bathroom, visiting public spaces, before and after eating, and whenever deemed appropriate throughout the day. Be sure to wash any clothing items, bedding, and/or washable toys that come into contact with an infected individual to avoid spreading the virus. Clean kitchen and bathroom surfaces daily. Use a chlorine bleach-based cleaner to sterilize countertops in your home and avoid bacteria from spreading. Avoid touching your face throughout the day. Over the course of a day, the average person often comes into direct contact with bacteria and viruses that have the potential to cause sickness. Be sure to avoid touching your face, especially orifices such as your mouth, nose, eyes, and ears as much as possible throughout the day. Be sure to wash your hands before touching your face if possible. Avoid undercooked and raw foods. These foods have a higher ability to spread the stomach flu virus. Meats are especially prone to carrying the virus. Consume undercooked and raw meats and other foods with extreme caution. Do not drink untreated water or unpasteurized milk when possible. Untreated or unpasteurized waters can carry illness-inducing bacteria and viruses. Only drink from sealed bottles and use bottled water to brush your teeth when you are travelling. Wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly before consuming to remove any outstanding bacteria from the outside of the produce.	Notice if you are experiencing the common symptoms of gastroenteritis. Have your doctor run a stool sample. Lay down. Soothe your stomach with ginger ale or peppermint tea. Hydrate yourself. Eat ice chips. Avoid solid foods. Try the BRAT diet immediately after an episode. Purchase an over-the-counter stomach aid. Wait it out. Consult a doctor to obtain prescription medication. Visit a medical professional if symptoms do not improve. Get a vaccine. Practice good hygiene. Clean kitchen and bathroom surfaces daily. Avoid touching your face throughout the day. Avoid undercooked and raw foods.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Drug-Dealers-in-Your-Neighborhood	How to Get Rid of Drug Dealers in Your Neighborhood	Seeing drug dealers in your neighborhood can be scary, but you can get rid of them by watching for suspicious activity, like excessive loitering around a certain house or odd smells, and reporting it to the police as soon as possible. Never try to apprehend a drug dealer by yourself, or you might get hurt. Instead, find a safe place and contact the police. In addition to increasing police activity, work with local businesses and places of worship to clean up the neighborhood, and establish youth centers to keep young people from getting involved with drugs. Consider asking officials if abandoned lots can be turned into parks or playgrounds, which will help drive out dealers. If your area needs extra surveillance, ask your local police and community members to establish a Neighborhood Watch that can patrol the streets.	Talk to your neighbors and other property owners in the area. It will be easier to identify, stop, and prevent drug activity in your neighborhood if you work together. Your neighbors may have noticed things you haven't, and vice versa. Watch for suspicious activity. If you suspect that there are drug dealings going on in your neighborhood, look for warning signs. Visitors at strange hours, blocked-up windows, and odd smells may be signs of drug activity. Excessive foot traffic to and from a house and loitering may be signs that illicit activity is occurring. Another suspicious pattern is the presence of many cars that stop at the house for a short period of time and then leave. Other possible signs of drug activity include graffiti and gang activity in the area, although these are not always linked. Keep an eye out for drug paraphernalia. Surprisingly, people can be careless about concealing drug paraphernalia such as hypodermic needles and pipes, even when a police presence has been established in the neighborhood. If you see signs of these materials, call the police. If you find evidence of drug paraphernalia, don't collect it or look around for additional materials. Take note of where you found it, what type of paraphernalia it was, what time of day you discovered it, and on what date, and report those details to the police. Record as much detail as you can. Always stay safe and don't approach potential dealers, but gathering details about the activities you observe can help police take the proper action. If the drug dealer lives nearby, you can often document activities from the safety of your own home. If you observe suspicious traffic activity, take notes of license plate numbers, car models and colors, and approximate times of visits. If you are concerned about a particular individual, write down a detailed description including height, build, hair color, and any identifying features. Also include the circumstances that have caused your suspicion. If you feel that the situation is dangerous, be cautious. Do not openly collect information, take photographs, or do other things that might provoke a hostile dealer. Remember: if they are operating in your neighborhood, they may know who you are. Contact the police. You can choose to remain anonymous if you will feel safer that way. Provide the police with as much detail as possible about the situation you've observed: where you believe drug dealers are operating, what they look like, when their customers come by, how many cars you've seen, etc. Call from a safe place. Don't place a call where potential dealers can hear or see you. Don't tell suspected dealers that you will call the police. Always contact the police and allow them to handle drug activities. Attempting to stop these crimes yourself may cause you or others harm. It may also cause difficulties in prosecuting criminal cases related to the activity later. Start a Neighborhood Watch. Neighborhood Watches are often very successful in eliminating drug dealers from your neighborhood. They can help reduce criminal activity by creating an environment without opportunities for things like drug deals. However, it's important to work with the police so that Watch members are properly trained and informed. Post signs and publicize the presence of your Neighborhood Watch. Knowing that the area is under observation will often persuade dealers to move out of your neighborhood to an area that is less patrolled. Never attempt to apprehend a drug dealer yourself. This only creates a situation where people could be seriously harmed or even killed. Form a “block club. ” Having your whole community work together will be much more efficient than if you try to take action yourself. Block clubs have historically had a significant impact on getting rid of neighborhood drug dealers. Get together with neighbors and arrange for “positive loitering,” where members of the club do things like sweep the streets, pick up litter, and do other activities near where drugs are sold. The constant presence of people may dissuade drug dealers that operate in public places. Go to community meetings together. Many communities have safety training meetings, police meetings, and other events and activities where you can learn more about how to keep your neighborhood safe. Meet safely to discuss problems. If your neighborhood is rough, it may be safer to avoid having Neighborhood Watch or block club meetings in that area. Instead, look for a public location such as a church or community center, or even a small local business. Even meeting a few blocks away can provide more safety for your members. Definitely avoid having meetings at any one individual's house, as this could provide dealers with a target for revenge. Ask about local improvements. Areas such as vacant lots are prime territory for drug dealers. Contact your local officials to see if lots can be turned into parks or playgrounds. Your community may even be able to pitch in to beautify an area. Eliminating potential dealing spots will help drive dealers out of your neighborhood. Contact the property owner. If the property where you believe drug dealing is occurring is a rental, contacting the person in charge of the property may help them take action. If you don't know who is in charge of the property, your local tax office can usually provide you with information about the owner, landlord, or property manager. Contact your municipal authorities about environmental problems. Things such as broken streetlights, abandoned cars, and degraded fences can provide opportunities for drug dealers to thrive. Taking actions such as getting street lights repaired and abandoned vehicles towed are small fixes, but they can have a big effect. Identify safe programs to help eliminate drug dealers. Many local law enforcement agencies work together with the community in specific programs, such as CrimeStoppers and "drug dealer eviction" programs, to help eliminate drug activity. Ask about how to work with these established programs to ensure everyone's safety. Promote community spirit. Drug dealers look for locations where neighbors don't talk to each other and where people tend to be isolated. This allows them to more easily intimidate people who notice them. A strong, active, positive community is one of the best deterrents for drug dealers. Hosting activities such as community cook-outs, block parties, and other events will help you get to know your neighbors and strengthen your community. Work with small businesses, local offices, and churches. See if they will help clean up and refurbish rundown storefronts and parking lots. These clean-ups could even employ people who might otherwise turn to drugs. Develop a youth center in your neighborhood. Sometimes, young people get involved in drugs because they don't see better options. A youth center can provide alternative activities and opportunities for young people. Work with local churches, businesses, social services, and police to provide resources and training. Young people can be very effective peer anti-drug educators. Organize drug education programs in your neighborhood. Schools, churches, and the police usually have resources that can help you establish a drug prevention fair to educate people on the dangers of drug use and how to prevent drug activity in your area.	Talk to your neighbors and other property owners in the area. Watch for suspicious activity. Keep an eye out for drug paraphernalia. Record as much detail as you can. Contact the police. Start a Neighborhood Watch. Form a “block club. Meet safely to discuss problems. Ask about local improvements. Contact the property owner. Contact your municipal authorities about environmental problems. Identify safe programs to help eliminate drug dealers. Promote community spirit. Work with small businesses, local offices, and churches. Develop a youth center in your neighborhood. Organize drug education programs in your neighborhood.
https://www.wikihow.com/Train-Your-Dog-to-Hunt	How to Train Your Dog to Hunt	The best way to train your dog to hunt is by using scented decoys and exposing the dog to water. Attach a waterfowl scent to a duck decoy, throw it from a boat you're on, and have the dog retrieve it. Give the dog positive reinforcement when it brings the decoy back to you.	Research the different breeds of water dogs. There are many dogs suitable for hunting waterfowl. Some of the most popular are Labrador Retrievers,Golden Retrievers and Springer Spaniels. Look into the different breeds and decide which one is best for you and your hunting adventures. You should also be mindful of the amount of care a particular breed will need. Some dogs require a lot of room to run, for example, while others are more sedentary. Choose a dog that you can provide a good home for. Pick out a puppy. Although there are many adult dogs that are trained to hunt waterfowl, it is generally best to train your own puppy. Not only will a puppy allow you the time to train the dog for your hunting style, starting with a puppy will also ensure a loyal dog that is bonded and conditioned to its owner. Make sure you use a reputable breeder; you can research breeders online or at your local dog or hunting clubs. Animal shelters and animal controls often have lab and retriever mix puppies that are in danger of being put to sleep. Many mixes can be trained to retrieve ducks if proper time is spent training them. Ask a shelter if you can foster retriever mix puppies and find one that has a natural instinct to retrieve and likes water! Many times if dogs do not have a natural instinct you can help find them a home and work with a different puppy! Introduce the puppy to water when they are little. Instill the idea that water is good, water is fun, and playing in water is a way to earn rewards and other positive reinforcement. You can start in a small wading pool at first, and in no time your dog will be ready for the open water. Teach your dog to sit and stay. Although these are basic and cliché dog commands, they serve as the foundational commands for more complex hunting demands. Use food as a way to teach sitting. Hold food over the dog's head. Give the command to sit while simultaneously pressing gently on the dog's hind legs. As soon as the dog sits give it a treat. Repeat this over and over. Soon your dog will sit at the first glance of a treat. Eventually, he or she will sit without requiring a treat. Introduce your dog to decoys and to the scent of waterfowl. It is important that your dog quickly understand the difference between a real duck and a decoy. You can utilize waterfowl scent and dummies to train your dog. Be sure to set decoys far away from the dog before throwing the dummy so they are able to find out where the dummy is and knows the difference between a real bird and a decoy. Practice daily, if possible. Make waterfowl training a fun, rewarding experience for your dog. Reinforce positive behavior with positive rewards. When you attach a scent to a decoy or training device, throw it in the water, and see your dog fetch the trainer and return it to you, make sure to let your dog know what a good job it has done. There is nothing a dog wants more than to please its owner, and to establish a lifelong hunting partnership it is important to let your dog know from a young age that retrieving game is something he or she will be rewarded for. Expose your dog to actual hunting situations before taking it out into the field. A dog that is trained only in theory may not perform to expectations in the field. A dog that is expected to perform around guns needs to be trained in the presence of guns. Take your waterfowl dog with you when you target practice, or set up simulated hunts in a proper shooting area. The key point is that your dog has to be prepared for actual situations if you expect it to perform like a seasoned hunter. Condition your dog prior to the hunt. You want your dog at peak performance in the field. Use training dummies early and often. The more you train your dog to the scent and feel of waterfowl, the more your dog will impress you in the field. Remember, a dog's biggest pleasure is pleasing its owner, so if you show appreciation for good behavior in practice your dog will certainly please you in hunting situations. Train your dog in a boat prior to a hunt if boats are going to be used. Load it in and out, and practice retrieving dummies from the boat. Simplify the training by keeping it simple. Your basic goal is to get your dog to retrieve the bird. In your training program focus on rewarding your dog for retrieving the training dummy. It is in the natural instincts of a retriever to want to go after, retrieve, and return a shot bird. It is the job of the owner to get the dog trained to consistently and methodically do so.	Research the different breeds of water dogs. Pick out a puppy. Introduce the puppy to water when they are little. Teach your dog to sit and stay. Introduce your dog to decoys and to the scent of waterfowl. Practice daily, if possible. Reinforce positive behavior with positive rewards. Expose your dog to actual hunting situations before taking it out into the field. Use training dummies early and often. Train your dog in a boat prior to a hunt if boats are going to be used. Simplify the training by keeping it simple.
https://www.wikihow.com/Factor-Algebraic-Equations	How to Factor Algebraic Equations	To factor algebraic equations, start by finding the greatest common factor of the numbers in the equation. Then, divide each number by the greatest common factor and rewrite the equation so you have the greatest common factor and then the simplified equation in parentheses. Once you've simplified the equation, you're finished.	Understand the definition of factoring when applied to single numbers. Factoring is conceptually simple, but, in practice, can prove to be challenging when applied to complex equations. Because of this, it's easiest to approach the concept of factoring by starting with simple numbers, then move on to simple equations before finally proceeding to more advanced applications. A given number's factors are the numbers that multiply to give that number. For example, the factors of 12 are 1, 12, 2, 6, 3 and 4, because 1 × 12, 2 × 6, and 3 × 4 all equal 12. Another way to think of this is that a given number's factors are the numbers by which it is evenly divisible. Can you find all the factors of the number 60? We use the number 60 for a wide variety of purposes (minutes in an hour, seconds in a minute, etc.) because it's evenly divisible by a fairly wide range of numbers. The factors of 60 are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 12, 15, 20, 30, and 60. Understand that variable expressions can also be factored. Just as lone numbers can be factored, so too can variables with numeric coefficients be factored. To do this, simply find the factors of the variable's coefficient. Knowing how to factor variables is useful for simplifying algebraic equations that the variables are a part of. For example, the variable 12x can be written as a product of the factors of 12 and x. We can write 12x as 3(4x), 2(6x), etc., using whichever factors of 12 are best for our purposes. We can even go as far as to factor 12x multiple times. In other words, we don't have to stop with 3(4x) or 2(6x) - we can factor 4x and 6x to give 3(2(2x) and 2(3(2x), respectively. Obviously, these two expressions are equal. Apply the distributive property of multiplication to factor algebraic equations. Using your knowledge of how to factor both lone numbers and variables with coefficients, you can simplify simple algebraic equations by finding factors that the numbers and variables in an algebraic equation have in common. Usually, to make the equation as simple as possible, we try to search for the greatest common factor. This simplification process is possible because of the distributive property of multiplication, which states that for any numbers a, b, and c, a(b + c) = ab + ac. Let's try an example problem. To factor the algebraic equation 12 x + 6, first, let's try to find the greatest common factor of 12x and 6. 6 is the biggest number that divides evenly into both 12x and 6, so we can simplify the equation to 6(2x + 1). This process also applies to equations with negatives and fractions. x/2 + 4, for instance, can be simplified to 1/2(x + 8), and -7x + -21 can be factored to -7(x + 3). Ensure the equation is in quadratic form (ax2 + bx + c = 0). Quadratic equations are of the form ax + bx + c = 0, where a, b, and c are numeric constants and a does not equal 0 (note that a can equal 1 or -1). If you have an equation containing one variable (x) that has one or more terms of x to the second power, you can usually shift the terms in the equation around using basic algebraic operations to get 0 on one side of equals sign and ax , etc. on the other side. For example, let's consider the algebraic equation. 5x + 7x - 9 = 4x + x - 18 can be simplified to x + 6x + 9 = 0, which is in the quadratic form. Equations with greater powers of x, like x , x , etc. can't be quadratic equations. They are cubic equations, quadratic equations, and so on, unless the equation can be simplified to eliminate these terms of x above the power of 2. In quadratic equations where a = 1, factor to (x+d )(x+e), where d × e = c and d + e = b. If your quadratic equation it is in the form x + bx + c = 0 (in other words, if the coefficient of the x term = 1), it's possible (but not guaranteed) that a relatively simple shortcut can be used to factor the equation. Find two numbers that both multiply to make c and add to make b. Once you find these two numbers d and e, place them in the following expression: (x+d)(x+e). These two terms, when multiplied together, produce your quadratic equation - in other words, they are your quadratic equation's factors. For example, let's consider the quadratic equation x + 5x + 6 = 0. 3 and 2 multiply together to make 6 and also add up to make 5, so we can simplify this equation to (x + 3)(x + 2). Slight variations on this basic shortcut exist for slight variations in the equation itself: If the quadratic equation is in the form x -bx+c, your answer is in this form: (x - _)(x - _). If it is in the form x +bx+c, your answer looks like this: (x + _)(x + _). If it is in the form x -bx-c, you answer is in the form (x + _)(x - _). Note: the numbers in the blanks can be fractions or decimals. For example, the equation x + (21/2)x + 5 = 0 factors to (x + 10)(x + 1/2). If possible, factor by inspection. Believe it or not, for uncomplicated quadratic equations, one of the accepted means of factoring is simply to examine the problem, then just consider possible answers until you find the right one. This is also known as factoring by inspection. If the equation is in the form ax +bx+c and a>1, your factored answer will be in the form (dx +/- _)(ex +/- _), where d and e are nonzero numerical constants that multiply to make a. Either d or e (or both) can be the number 1, though this is not necessarily so. If both are 1, you've essentially used the shortcut described above. Let's consider an example problem. 3x - 8x + 4 at first seems intimidating. However, once we realize that 3 only has two factors (3 and 1), it becomes easier, because we know that our answer must be in the form (3x +/- _)(x +/- _). In this case, adding a -2 to both blank spaces gives the correct answer. -2 × 3x = -6x and -2 × x = -2x. -6x and -2x add to -8x. -2 × -2 = 4, so we can see that the factored terms in parentheses multiply to become the original equation. Solve by completing the square. In some cases, quadratic equations can be quickly and easily factored by using a special algebraic identity. Any quadratic equation of the form x + 2xh + h = (x + h). So, if, in your equation, your b value is twice the square root of your c value, your equation can be factored to (x + (sqrt(c))). For example, the equation x + 6x + 9 fits this form. 3 is 9 and 3 × 2 is 6. So, we know that the factored form of this equation is (x + 3)(x + 3), or (x + 3). Use factors to solve quadratic equations. Regardless of how you factor your quadratic expression, once it is factored, you can find possible answers for the value of x by setting each factor equal to zero and solving. Since you're looking for values of x that cause your equation to equal zero, a value of x that makes either of your factors equal zero is a possible answer for your quadratic equation. Let's return to the equation x + 5x + 6 = 0. This equation factored to (x + 3)(x + 2) = 0. If either of the factors equals 0, the entire equation equals 0, so our possible answers for x are the numbers that make (x + 3) and (x + 2) equal 0. These numbers are -3 and -2, respectively. Check your answers - some of them may be extraneous! When you've found your possible answers for x, plug them back in to your original equation to see if they are valid. Sometimes, the answers you find don't cause the original equation to equal zero when plugged back in. We call these answers extraneous and disregard them. Let's plug -2 and -3 into x + 5x + 6 = 0. First, -2: (-2) + 5(-2) + 6 = 0 4 + -10 + 6 = 0 0 = 0. This is correct, so -2 is a valid answer. Now, let's try -3: (-3) + 5(-3) + 6 = 0 9 + -15 + 6 = 0 0 = 0. This is also correct, so -3 is also a valid answer. If the equation is in the form a2-b2, factor it to (a+b)(a-b). Equations with two variables factor differently than basic quadratics. For any equation a -b where a and b do not equal 0, the equation factors to (a+b)(a-b). For example, the equation 9x - 4y = (3x + 2y)(3x - 2y). If the equation is in the form a2+2ab+b2, factor it to (a+b)2. Note that, If the trinomial is in the form a - 2ab+b , the factored form is slightly different: (a-b). The equation 4x + 8xy + 4y can be re-written as 4x + (2 × 2 × 2)xy + 4y. We can now see that it's in the correct form, so we can say with confidence that our equation factors to (2x + 2y) If the equation is in the form a3-b3, factor it to (a-b)(a2+ab+b2). Finally, it bears mentioning that cubics and even higher-order equations can be factored, though the factoring process quickly becomes prohibitively complicated. For instance, 8x - 27y factors to (2x - 3y)(4x + ((2x)(3y)) + 9y )	Understand the definition of factoring when applied to single numbers. Understand that variable expressions can also be factored. Apply the distributive property of multiplication to factor algebraic equations. Ensure the equation is in quadratic form (ax2 + bx + c = 0). In quadratic equations where a = 1, factor to (x+d )(x+e), where d × e = c and d + e = b. If possible, factor by inspection. Solve by completing the square. Use factors to solve quadratic equations. Check your answers - some of them may be extraneous! If the equation is in the form a2-b2, factor it to (a+b)(a-b). If the equation is in the form a2+2ab+b2, factor it to (a+b)2. If the equation is in the form a3-b3, factor it to (a-b)(a2+ab+b2).
https://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Meat	How to Cook Meat	To cook meat, start by taking it out of the fridge 15 to 30 minutes before cooking, since meat that's too cold will cook unevenly. Then, place it on a grill set to medium heat, close the lid to trap the heat, and flip the meat halfway through the cooking time so both sides cook evenly. Alternatively, place the meat on a greased baking dish and roast it in the oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the meat has finished cooking, remove it from the grill or oven and let it rest for 10 minutes to seal in the juices.	Thaw frozen meat in the fridge for 24 hours. Keep the frozen foods chilled while they thaw so they do not develop harmful bacteria. Meat in the fridge is safe to use 1 to 2 days after it's completely thawed or it can be refrozen if you end up not using it. Larger meats will require more time to thaw in the fridge. For example, a large frozen turkey should be thawed in the fridge for 24 hours for every 5 pounds (2.3 kg) it weighs. You can also thaw meat in a sink filled with cold water. Put the meat in a water-tight bag and fully submerge it in the sink. Change the water every 30 minutes as it starts to warm up. Meat thawed this way needs to be cooked immediately. Never thaw foods at room temperature or else harmful bacteria could form. Marinate meat for up to 12 hours for added flavor. Once the meat is thawed, put the marinade in a resealable plastic bag along with your meat and leave it in the fridge. Not only will it help tenderize your meat, but the meat will absorb the flavors and make your meat tastier. Marinating for longer than 12 hours can make your meat too mushy or stringy once it's time to cook it. Marinades can be made with balsamic vinegar , red wine , or any liquid with herbs and spices. Pull the meat out of the fridge at least 15-30 minutes before you cook it. Keep the meat on a baking tray or in a bag so you don't contaminate your countertops. Meat that's too cold will cook unevenly and make it overdone on the outside while it's undercooked on the inside. Remove any excess fat from your cut with a knife. Hold the bit of fat with your non-dominant hand and pull it away from the meat until it's taut. Cut with a chef's knife where the fat meets the meat with a slow slicing motion. Tilt the knife towards the fat as you cut so you don't remove portions of good meat. Remove small strips at a time so you have the most control. Leave some fat on the meat. The fat will render as you cook it and make your meat more flavorful. Cook meat like venison, buffalo, or chicken for lower fat content. Season the meat with salt and pepper. Add the seasonings right before you plan on cooking the meat. Sprinkle ¾ tsp (4 g) of salt and pepper per 1 lb (0.45 kg) and rub it in so the meat absorbs the flavor as it cooks. Add other spices and herbs if you want a more complex flavor, but usually a simple season will do the trick. Check the internal temperature with a meat thermometer before serving. Stick the meat thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. Wait for the reading to determine if your meat has finished cooking. Sanitize the thermometer with hot water and dish soap after you take the reading. Pull the meat away from its heat source while you take the measurement so it doesn't affect your reading. Cook red meat to 145 °F (63 °C). Measure the temperatures of steaks, chops, or roasts until they are at the correct temperature. This includes beef, pork, lamb, or veal. Once the meat is at temperature, let it rest for 3 minutes. Don't eat rare steaks if you have a weak immune system. Make sure ground red meat is above 160 °F (71 °C). Break apart larger chunks of ground meat to make them cook faster. Make sure ground meat is browned all the way through before consumption. Prepare poultry to 165 °F (74 °C). Every cut of poultry needs to be cook thoroughly since it can cause food poisoning when consumed raw. Make sure the poultry is an even color throughout and that the juices inside are clear. Preheat your oven to 425 °F (218 °C). Keep the oven at a higher temperature to make the meat crispier and more firm. Start preheating your oven as you prepare the meat so that that it's ready when you're ready to start cooking. If you want tender meat that “falls off the bone,” keep your heat around 300–350 °F (149–177 °C). It will take longer to fully cook at lower heat. Put your meat into the oven on a baking pan. Before placing the meat on the baking pan, oil it with cooking spray or your choice of cooking oil so the meat doesn't stick to it. Add the meat, then place the pan on the center rack of the oven and close the door. If you're cooking a full chicken, find a pan with an attachable wire rack. Place the chicken on the wire rack so heat can evenly cook all sides of the bird and makes the skin crispy. Avoid opening the door while the meat is cooking. Each time you open your oven, heat escapes and cooking your meat will take even longer. Cook the meat until it reaches a safe internal temperature throughout. Cooking time depends on the size and type of meat you're making. A smaller portion of meat will take around 30 to 40 minutes, but larger cuts or full roasts could take up to a few hours. Chicken breasts will take 20 to 30 minutes to cook, but a full chicken will take around an hour and a half. Cook steaks for 15 to 20 minutes in the oven. Pork roasts vary on the cut you're cooking, but it usually takes between 15 to 20 minutes per 1 lb (0.45 kg). Check the temperature after the first 30 minutes, and then every 15-20 minutes afterward. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes after removing it from the oven. Don't cut into the meat immediately after you pull it out of the oven or else the juices will run out and your meat will start to dry. Leave the meat to rest in the pan on the stovetop before cutting into it. Turn your grill on or light the charcoal. Turn the starter dial on your gas grill to light it. If you have a charcoal grill, squirt a small amount of lighter fluid or use 2 crumbled pieces of newspaper and light it with a long-handled lighter. Let the grill preheat for 15 minutes with the lid on. Keep the temperature at a medium heat if you can control it. A grill that's too hot will start to burn the outside of the meat while undercooking the inside. Make sure your grill grates are clean before you cook on them. Lay your meat on the grill over the flames and close the lid. Spread your meat out evenly across the grates so they are over the flames. Immediately replace the lid so that the heat is contained. Make sure your meat isn't dripping with marinade, otherwise it could cause the flames to flare up. Flip your meat halfway through its cook time. Look at the sides of your meat to see a change of color. Red meats will start to brown and poultry will turn white as it cooks. Once you see the change of color halfway up your meat, use a pair of tongs or a long-handled spatula to turn your meat over so it can get grill marks on both sides. Rotate the meat in the middle of cooking each side to get the traditional crossing grill marks. Grill the meat until it’s completely cooked. Chicken breasts take about 8 minutes per side when over direct heat, but 10 to 12 minutes if they're not over a flame. Grill steaks that are thinner than 1.5 in (3.8 cm) for 5 minutes on each side, but use a meat thermometer to check the temperature for thicker steaks. Pork chops take between 12 to 20 minutes to fully cook over the grill. Always check the internal temperatures since grill heat may vary. Heat an oiled skillet on the stove over medium-high heat. Spread the cooking oil across the whole surface of the skillet by tipping and rotating it. Keep the skillet over the heat until the oil starts to ripple. Non-stick pans will make your sear less crispy. Opt for a cast iron skillet. Place the meat on the pan once it’s piping hot. Make sure the meat isn't dripping with marinade before you put it on the pan. Before the oil starts to smoke, lay the meat down in the center of the pan, or spread out smaller pieces of meat evenly so the meat isn't crowded. Don't move the meat around the pan once you've dropped it in. Flip the meat once it has a dark-colored sear on the bottom. Use tongs or spatula to try and lift the meat off of the pan to check on the sear's color. If the meat sticks to the pan, wait to flip it. Once you see a dark sear or the breading is golden brown, flip your meat over. Cook the meat thoroughly. The size and type of meat will affect the time it takes for it to cook. A 6 oz (170 g) chicken breast will take approximately 5 minutes for each side to cook through. A beef steak or pork tenderloin that's 1 in (2.5 cm) thick will take 3-4 minutes on each side. If your meat isn't at the right temperature and you're afraid of the pan burning it, remove the meat from the skillet and place it on a baking pan. Put it into your oven on the broil setting for 2-3 minutes before checking the temperature again.	Thaw frozen meat in the fridge for 24 hours. Marinate meat for up to 12 hours for added flavor. Pull the meat out of the fridge at least 15-30 minutes before you cook it. Remove any excess fat from your cut with a knife. Season the meat with salt and pepper. Check the internal temperature with a meat thermometer before serving. Cook red meat to 145 °F (63 °C). Make sure ground red meat is above 160 °F (71 °C). Prepare poultry to 165 °F (74 °C). Preheat your oven to 425 °F (218 °C). Put your meat into the oven on a baking pan. Cook the meat until it reaches a safe internal temperature throughout. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes after removing it from the oven. Turn your grill on or light the charcoal. Lay your meat on the grill over the flames and close the lid. Flip your meat halfway through its cook time. Grill the meat until it’s completely cooked. Heat an oiled skillet on the stove over medium-high heat. Place the meat on the pan once it’s piping hot. Flip the meat once it has a dark-colored sear on the bottom. Cook the meat thoroughly.
https://www.wikihow.com/Add-a-New-Slide-in-PowerPoint	How to Add a New Slide in PowerPoint	Mac - Click the Insert tab, then click New Slide. Windows - Right-click the slide sidebar, then click New Slide.	Double-click your PowerPoint presentation if it isn't open. This will open the presentation in your Mac's PowerPoint program. Click the space between two slides in the sidebar. The sidebar in the left side of the PowerPoint window shows a summary of each slide in your presentation; clicking the space between two slides will mark that space as the point to which you add your new slide. Click Insert. This tab is in the top-left side of your Mac's screen. Click New Slide. It's in the drop-down menu below the Insert tab. Doing so will insert a new slide into the PowerPoint presentation. If you decide to reposition your slide, you can click and drag it up or down in the sidebar to do so. Open your PowerPoint presentation if it isn't open. To do so, you can double-click the file itself, or you can open the PowerPoint program and then select the file name from the list of recent documents. Right-click a space between two slides in the sidebar. These should be two slides between which you wish to add your slide. Right-clicking here will invoke a drop-down menu. Click New Slide. It's toward the bottom of the drop-down menu. A new slide icon will appear in the area you selected between the two slides. You can click and drag your slide in the sidebar to reposition it in the presentation's order.	Double-click your PowerPoint presentation if it isn't open. Click the space between two slides in the sidebar. Click Insert. Click New Slide. Open your PowerPoint presentation if it isn't open. Right-click a space between two slides in the sidebar. Click New Slide.
https://www.wikihow.com/Dribble-Like-Lionel-Messi	How to Dribble Like Lionel Messi	To dribble a soccer ball like Lionel Messi, keep the ball close to your feet at all times, and practice dribbling through cones while looking up to see where you're going. As you're dribbling, keep your arms out and bent slightly in front of your body to steady your movements. Once you've mastered dribbling, work on improving your speed by doing wind sprints while dribbling, and practice playing as much as possible.	Keep the ball close at all times. Messi and other great dribblers keep the ball extremely close to their body as they move, almost as if it were glued to a short rope around the ankle. To build your close-dribbling skills, practice snaking through cones as quickly as possible. You'll force yourself to control the ball and keep it close to make it around the cones without going all wonky. It's important to practice as a quick clip. It's easy to keep the ball close while you walk around, but it's much harder to do at a full sprint. Gradually build up your speed and your dribbling stamina, aiming for a touch on the ball every 2-3 strides. Keep your head up. Good vision is essential to good ball control and excellent Messi-style dribbling. Practice keeping your eyes looking up at the action around you, focusing on defenders hips to see which direction they're moving so you can anticipate the best way to get them off balance or even catch them with their legs spread for a morale-killing nutmeg. Establish a low center of gravity. It's almost unfair: Messi is a great dribbler in part because he's short. Not that height makes you a better dribbler, but he takes more strides per dribble than some other dribblers, and he's forced to keep the ball close, taking short little quick steps as he moves. Taller players can do the same thing, but it'll take more practice and helps to center yourself low, squatting and staying on top of the ball. Keep your arms out. Remember how Jack Sparrow walked in Pirates of the Caribbean, arms out to steady himself? Watch some tape--great dribblers like Messi dribble like that. Keeping your arms bent and slightly out from your body allows you to maintain your balance during quick transitions and changes of direction, keeping yourself in the best position. Get faster. Speed is one of the major keys to Lionel Messi's style of play and his ball control. Being able to keep the ball close at fast speeds is what distinguishes Messi from average players. To work on your speed, do wind sprints with a ball. Try to go as fast as you can with as many touches on the ball as possible. Time yourself and work on getting your time faster from one end of the field to another. Run lines, or suicides. To build your fast-twitch explosiveness, start running suicide drills that'll have you moving back and forth across the field, from the goal line to the 6 yard (5.5 m) box, the 18 yard (16.5 m) box, mid-field, and back. Play constantly. In an interview, Messi was once asked what it took to become a great player like him and he said that the key was to love the game and play it constantly. From the age of 3 on, Messi played every day, morning, afternoon, and night. He played inside and got in trouble for breaking things. As soon as he could walk, he was dribbling a soccer ball. Do the same. Shield the ball with your body. Put your body between passes that you receive and any defenders around you. Turn your hip or you back to the defense and try as much as you can to shield the ball from them. Messi will often already have his eyes up and looking over his shoulder at an opponent as soon as he traps the ball. Accept passes with the foot farthest from your opponent. When you trap a pass, try to do it by controlling it with the foot farthest away from the opponent. Though Messi often gets close enough to touch the defense, he's always got the ball closer to him and his center of gravity than his opponents. To start off on the right foot (ha!), accept the pass and trap it to create space in which to work. Locate the space. Keeping your eyes up, decide which direction is more likely to allow you enough space to maneuver around the defender. His hips won't lie: Look closely at the defender's hips to see which direction they're turned and what he seems to be anticipating you'll do. If you're right-footed, most defenders will instinctively guess that you'll go right, which might be your natural tendency anyway. Use that misconception to your advantage. Bring the defense in by stepping in the opposite direction you want to go. Control the ball with the foot that matches the direction you're eventually going to go and take a step with the other foot. Messi's signature move happens so quick it's easy to miss, which is why it's so effective against defenders. Basically, to juke out a defender, Messi takes one stutter-step in the fake direction, feints, and then dribbles in the opposite with the outside of his foot. Approach the defender slowly. Messi brings the defender in and forces him to reveal his hand and make a mistake before blowing past them finding space. Messi isn't a flashy dribbler like Ronaldhino or a master of the step-over like Cristiano Ronaldo, he just uses simple changes of direction and ball control to do inhuman looking things. Explode. Drop it into high gear when you decide to switch direction. Blow past your opponent by flicking the ball in the direction you want to go and moving into your quick-dribble that you've been practicing so aggressively. You don't have to go super-fast to find space, you just need to make the smart dribble and catch the defender flat-footed and out of position. He won't be able to touch you.	Keep the ball close at all times. Keep your head up. Establish a low center of gravity. Keep your arms out. Get faster. Play constantly. Shield the ball with your body. Accept passes with the foot farthest from your opponent. Locate the space. Bring the defense in by stepping in the opposite direction you want to go. Approach the defender slowly. Explode.
https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Vaginal-Cysts	How to Treat Vaginal Cysts	Most vaginal cysts clear up on their own, but if yours doesn't go away or you have cysts on either side of your vaginal opening, try adding a tablespoon or 2 of Epsom salt to a warm bath or tub and soaking in it for 10 to 20 minutes twice a day. You can also mix a tablespoon of aloe vera with ¼ teaspoon of turmeric powder and apply the paste to your cyst. If your cyst is causing you pain, try holding a heat pack or hot water bottle to it to relieve your discomfort. If you notice a tender or painful lump near your vaginal opening, fever, redness and swelling around the lump, or discomfort when walking or sitting, seek medical attention, since these could be signs of infection.	Consider what kind of cyst you have. Most vaginal cysts are called inclusion cysts. These small, painless cysts usually go unnoticed and clear up on their own. If you have cysts that you can see on either side of your vaginal opening, these may be Bartholin's gland cysts. Normally, the glands secrete fluids that lubricate the vaginal lips and opening. But, these can become blocked, creating fluid-filled cysts. Less common types of cysts that develop inside the vagina include: Gartner's duct cysts: these form during fetal development and they should disappear after birth. If cysts develop later in life, an MRI is usually needed to diagnosis them. Mϋllerian cysts: these develop from fetal structures that should disappear after birth, but often don't. These cysts are filled with mucus and can develop anywhere inside the vaginal walls. Watch for signs of an infection. While most cysts won't cause any discomfort, you may notice signs that the cyst has become infected. It's important to pay attention to these symptoms so you can get immediate medical attention. Signs of infection include: A lump near the vaginal opening that is tender or painful Redness and swelling around the lump Discomfort when walking or sitting Painful intercourse Fever Know when to see your doctor. You should call your doctor or gynecologist if you have any symptoms of infection or if the cyst becomes painful. A normal bacterial Infection or sexually transmitted infection can make the cysts uncomfortable. These require medical treatment. You should also let your doctor know if you have recurrent cysts, even if home treatments work. Recurrent cysts might need to be surgically treated. If you're over 40 years old and have Bartholin Gland cysts, you need to have the cyst removed. Your doctor will probably want to have it tested for cancer, though this is extremely rare in a Bartholin gland. Follow your doctor's treatment recommendation. In addition to testing the cyst for cancer, your doctor may want to treat infected cysts. Treatment can involve draining the Bartholin's cyst by making an incision, then keeping it open with sutures or packing, which will be removed after a few days. A tube may also be used to drain the cyst. Your doctor may want to surgically remove a cyst if it returns, is large, or is painful. Remember that most vaginal cysts don't need treatment. Instead, they can reabsorb on their own. If they don't resolve on their own, these cysts remain small and painless. Get regular gynecological exams. If you have a cyst removed, you should have the area checked periodically to see if the cyst returns. It's a good idea to be in the habit of getting regular gynecological exams anyway. These can catch cervical cysts and cancer early. The American College of Physicians recommends that women of average risk for cervical cancer get pap smears and exams according to this new schedule: Ages 21 to 29: once every three years Ages 30 to 65: once every three years (or an HPV and Pap smear every five years) Over age 65: none are needed if recent tests come back normal Soak in a sitz bath. Fill the sitz bath with warm water and place it over the toilet. This will allow you to sit and soak just your genital area. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of epsom salts in the water and stir the mixture till the salts dissolve. Sit on the bath for 10 to 20 minutes, twice a day. You should do sitz baths three or four days or till the cyst improves. You can buy a sitz bath at a pharmacy or medical supply store. If you don't have a sitz bath, you could also just run a few inches of water in your bathtub. Use an apple cider vinegar (ACV) soak. More research is needed, but ACV can be used to try to reduce the size and swelling of vaginal cysts. Either run a sitz bath and add 1 cup of ACV or you can soak a cotton ball or swab with ACV. Apply the soaked cotton ball or swab directly to the cyst and hold it there for 30 minutes twice a day until you notice swelling reduce. While ACV is a popular home remedy, scientists caution against relying on vinegar as a medicinal treatment. Use a warm compress. Fill a hot water bottle with hot water and wrap it in a clean towel. Place this against the cyst to provide some pain relief. You might also try applying a heat pack, so long as you keep another cloth between the pack and your skin. Take care not to burn the delicate tissue in the vaginal area. You can also dip a flannel or cotton cloth in hot water, wring the water out, and apply it directly against the cyst. Apply an aloe vera mixture. Mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of aloe vera gel with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric powder. Stir until the mixture forms a paste. Use a cotton ball, tampon, or swab to apply the mixture to the cyst. Leave it on for 20 to 30 minutes once a day. Don't rinse or clean off the paste. Just let it run out naturally. You may want to wear a sanitary napkin so that the bright turmeric doesn't stain your clothing. Studies have shown that turmeric (curcumin) is an anti-inflammatory. This can reduce the irritation caused by vaginal cysts. Take over-the-counter (OTC) pain relievers. Since it may take a few days for the cyst to clear up, you may want to take OTC pain relievers like ibuprofen or acetaminophen. If you feel severe pain that doesn't go away after taking OTC medications, contact your doctor. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding dosage and how often to take the medication. Avoid irritating the cyst. Never rub the cyst, even when cleaning or washing the area. Gentle soaks in the sitz bath or tub are enough to keep the area clean. You should never douche. Douching is unnecessary, can irritate the cyst, and is considered to be harmful to women's health in general. Since you'll want to avoid irritating the cyst, consider using a sanitary napkin instead of a tampon, if you're menstruating.	Consider what kind of cyst you have. Watch for signs of an infection. Know when to see your doctor. Follow your doctor's treatment recommendation. Get regular gynecological exams. Soak in a sitz bath. Use an apple cider vinegar (ACV) soak. Use a warm compress. Apply an aloe vera mixture. Take over-the-counter (OTC) pain relievers. Avoid irritating the cyst.
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Flan	How to Make Flan	Before you start making flan, preheat the oven to 350 °F. To make the caramel topping, melt sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it turns bright copper, then immediately pour it into a baking dish. In a separate bowl, whip the eggs until they are frothy, then add the milk and vanilla. Pour your mixture over the caramel, and place the whole dish onto a baking tray filled with 1 to 2 inches of water. Cook for 1 hour, then refrigerate.	Make your caramel and pour it into your baking dish before making the flan. The caramel needs time to set before the flan is poured in, so it should be made first. Choose any of the three caramel methods below and then, while the caramel is still hot, pour it into the bottom of your baking dish(s). You can then move on to the actual flan. Craft a basic caramel by melting white sugar on the stovetop. This is perhaps the most common method, as all it requires is granulated sugar and a heavy-bottomed pan. Simply place the 3/4 cup sugar in the bottom of the pan and turn the heat on medium. Stir occasionally, breaking up any clumps, until the sugar is the color of a bright copper penny. Immediately remove from heat. A thick-bottomed pan is essential here -- as it will hold and distribute heat well to prevent parts of the sugar from burning. Lighter-colored pans make it easier to see when the sugar is done cooking. Get a smoother stovetop caramel by making a "wet caramel" with water. This method is a little more fickle, but it makes a smoother caramel by a long shot. To make it, combine 1 cup sugar, 1/4 cup water, and 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice in the bottom of a heavy-bottomed pan (off the heat). Once mixed, heat on medium-high heat until it boils, stirring throughout. Once it boils, stop stirring completely. Just wait and watch until it gets a copper penny color, then remove from the heat and let cool. Stirring agitates the sugars and creates a simple crystal -- AKA, sugar cubes, not liquid caramel. Once it boils, stop stirring. Use a wet rubber spatula if you need to scrape some sugar off the sides of the pan back into the mixture. Make a simple microwave caramel with water and sugar. Quick and easy, it won't look like restaurant-quality caramel but will have all the taste. Simply mix 1 cup sugar with 1/4 cup water in a microwave-safe glass cup. Stir so that all the sugar is wet and microwave for 5 minutes. After the 4 minute mark, don't take your eyes off the mixture. Once it hits a copper color, like a bright new penny, take it out of the microwave. If it isn't there by 5 minutes, keep cooking in 30-second increments. Pre-heat the oven to 350°F/175°C while the caramel is cooking. Once you have the caramel in the ramekins, you want to work somewhat quickly. Get the oven hot quickly so that you can start cooking the flans as soon as you're done mixing. Swirl the hot caramel around your baking dish so it coats the entire bottom. As soon as it comes off the heat, pour the copper-colored caramel into the bottom of either a large 9-inch glass pie pan or individual ramekins. Swirl it a bit so the entire bottom of the dish is coated. This will harden into the sugar disc topping your flan. Caution: This sugar will be extremely hot. Want a perfectly smooth caramel? Pour this syrup through a fine mesh strainer as it goes into the baking dishes. Whip the 4 eggs together until frothy, then add the two cans of milk and whip together. You want a completely smooth, well-mixed liquid. Use a nice large mixing bowl so that you can really whip it together without spilling. Add in the tablespoon vanilla, and any other flavors or spices you might want. This is the time to lightly customize your flan, though you don't want to go overboard. You should always add the vanilla, as it brings out the richness of the dessert. In addition, try a pinch of cinnamon and nutmeg, a touch of almond extract, or even 1/2 cup of shredded coconut. Pour the mixture into your pie pan or individual ramekins. Leave about a 1/4 inch at the top so that they don't bubble over, but flan shouldn't rise and you don't need a ton of room. Place the baking dish(s) in a larger, rimmed dish and fill this with 1-2 inches of hot water. This is called a water bath, and it helps prevent the sugar from quickly reheating and liquefying. You'll have a much more evenly cooked dessert as a result. Some cooks actually boil the water before pouring it in, getting the water near cooking temperature as soon as it goes in the oven. This can lead to a slightly firmer flan. If you can't make a water bath for whatever reason, cover the flans with aluminum foil as they cook. This will help retain moisture and prevent the tops from burning. Cook for 1 hour, or until the flans are set and barely jiggle when shook. To test even further, stab a flan with a toothpick. When you remove it, it should come up relatively clean -- not covered in chunks or liquid. Take the flans carefully out of their hot water bath, but don't let them cool just yet With a knife, loosen the edges of the flan from the bowl. Cut around the entire flan to loosen it from the sides, allowing you to easily remove it after it cools. Cool and refrigerate for at least 1-3 hours before serving. This will "set" the mixture, helping it keep its shape when served. Turn the flan bowls over on a plate to serve. You want the caramel to become the top of the flan. So simply place a plat on top of the dish or ramekin and flip everything. If you cut the edges of the flan before hand, it should slide out easily. Serve cold, with an extra drizzling of caramel sauce if you feel like making it. Of course, the caramel you cooked earlier will be hard by now, but you can always whip up more easily. Add a softened 8-oz package of cream cheese to the eggs and milk for a "Flan de Queso. " Leave the cheese out for 10-20 minutes to soften to room temperature, then blend it until soft. Then, add the eggs and milk and continue mixing until smooth. Once you have an even consistency, stop blending and move on with the recipe like normal. Replace the condensed milk with a can of coconut cream for a "Flan de Coco. " This lightly sweetened flan will have a nice hint of coconut without getting too strong. To push it over the top, toss in a 1/2 cup of shaved coconut after mixing all the liquids and eggs together. Throw in a touch of instant coffee for an espresso flan. Dissolve two tablespoons of coffee into a tablespoon of water, then add this to the wet ingredients along with a pinch of cinnamon and the tablespoon of vanilla. Toss in a pinch of fruit juice and/or zest, usually citrus. A cup of orange juice or pineapple juice is not uncommon for adventurous flan-makers. Grab the zest from half an orange or lemon for a more subtle citrus taste, or use a bit of juice and zest together to take it to the next level. For a "Flan de Pina," or pineapple flan, use 2 cups of pure pineapple juice, and 1 can of condensed milk for liquids, then add 2 tablespoons dark rum to cut the sweetness slightly. Melt 1/3-1/2 cup chocolate chips in the milk, stirring frequently, before adding to the eggs to make chocolate flan. Make sure you let the chocolate cool before you mix it into the eggs, otherwise the eggs could accidentally cook. Heat the milk, add the chocolate, and remove from the heat, covering and stirring to mix the chocolate in.	Make your caramel and pour it into your baking dish before making the flan. Craft a basic caramel by melting white sugar on the stovetop. Get a smoother stovetop caramel by making a "wet caramel" with water. Make a simple microwave caramel with water and sugar. Pre-heat the oven to 350°F/175°C while the caramel is cooking. Swirl the hot caramel around your baking dish so it coats the entire bottom. Whip the 4 eggs together until frothy, then add the two cans of milk and whip together. Add in the tablespoon vanilla, and any other flavors or spices you might want. Pour the mixture into your pie pan or individual ramekins. Place the baking dish(s) in a larger, rimmed dish and fill this with 1-2 inches of hot water. Cook for 1 hour, or until the flans are set and barely jiggle when shook. With a knife, loosen the edges of the flan from the bowl. Cool and refrigerate for at least 1-3 hours before serving. Turn the flan bowls over on a plate to serve. Serve cold, with an extra drizzling of caramel sauce if you feel like making it. Add a softened 8-oz package of cream cheese to the eggs and milk for a "Flan de Queso. Replace the condensed milk with a can of coconut cream for a "Flan de Coco. Throw in a touch of instant coffee for an espresso flan. Toss in a pinch of fruit juice and/or zest, usually citrus. Melt 1/3-1/2 cup chocolate chips in the milk, stirring frequently, before adding to the eggs to make chocolate flan.
https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Common-Problems-when-Installing-Laminate-Flooring	How to Avoid Common Problems when Installing Laminate Flooring	To avoid common problems when installing laminate flooring, inspect the sub-floor before installation to ensure that it is level. If you find any depressions or peaks that are more than 1/8 inch, you will probably need to use mortar to level out the floor. Then, purchase quality laminate flooring and underlayment, and before you install anything, look over each piece to check for defects before installing it. Carefully read the manufacturer's directions and seek professional assistance, if you encounter issues.	Be sure you are up to the challenge. Installing new floors is a big task and is fundamental to your home. To be successful, you need to have patience, adequate knowledge, and proper tools. Understand the time, energy, and commitment that is required before starting major projects. If you choose to hire a professional, be sure they are licensed and experienced. Check their references. Check the sub-floor. Sub-floors are typically concrete or cement and develop weaknesses over time. If you place laminate flooring on a weak or uneven sub-floor, the new floor will be compromised and eventually buckle, damage the laminate locking system, creak, or create micro gaps in the new floor. Here are some ways you can check for problems in a sub-floor: Use a level to see how flat the floor is. Lay a four to six foot level on the sub-floor, and see how close you can get the bubble to float between the vertical lines. If you find that the bubble is floating to one end of the level, the floor may be uneven. Use the level to measure gaps. Any depressions that measure less than 1/8" are okay for a new floor installation. If you find gaps larger than 1/8", then you may need to use self-leveling mortar to level the surface. Measure for any areas that peak higher than 1/8". These areas will need to be lowered to create an even surface. Wood floors will need to be sanded down, and concrete floors will need grinding. Mark all of the uneven areas with a felt-tipped marker to keep track. Choose quality material. Cheap laminate flooring has a higher chance of being defective right away and over time. Through usage, it may warp, buckle, and develop permanent stains. If you are working with a professional carpenter, ask for their opinion on the best brands. If you are on your own, ask an experienced home center employee, call a contractor, or check online for reviews on products you are considering. Purchase approximately 15% more laminate than you expect you will need. This will be useful for boards that are damaged, or in case the measurements are not accurate. Check to make sure you buy products that do not contain harmful chemicals. Install proper underlayment. Underlayment is a thin, hard layer of either cement board, wood, or foam. It is vital to the overall project because it protects the floor from moisture which can seep in from sub-floors such as concrete. Once the laminate flooring is introduced to moisture, it will absorb into the laminate and expand. Proper underlayment will help prevent the laminate from absorbing moisture which reduces buckling and warping over time. Underlayment also insulates noise, maintains the temperature in your home, and creates a smoother surface. Plywood is the recommended underlayment material for laminate flooring. However, the specific kind of plywood you use will depend on what your floors will be exposed to after installation. For example, if you live in a humid climate, marine plywood is recommended. When purchasing underlayment, check with the professional for guidance on the best type for you. Plywood underlayment is usually cheap and easy to install. It comes in large sheets that are placed down to cover the floor, and it is secured in place with screws along the edges. Monitor the temperature of the laminate. Flooring that has been left outside, or in a cold atmosphere, is fully contracted. If you start installing the flooring right when you bring it inside, then part of the floor will be installed cold. If the laminate is installed while it is still cold, it will slowly come to room temperature and change in size. Even if there was only a small section that was installed cold, it will expand and put pressure on the rest of the floor. This can cause humps and cracks in the floor and ruin the overall project. Allow your flooring to warm up overnight before installing it. Follow the manufacturer's installation directions carefully. Most modern laminate flooring does not require you to tap or pound it into place. Instead, they use a system of locks that "click" together. If you hammer planks together that use this system, you may break the edges, and your floors will not lock correctly. Inspect each piece of laminate. As the laminate is being installed, look at the laminate planks and edges to ensure they are the right pattern and don't have any visible defects. Replacing just one piece of installed laminate is difficult once surrounding pieces have been installed. Manufacturers will not cover defective pieces once they have been installed. Allow room for expansion. While you want to prevent laminate flooring from expanding, there is no way to avoid it completely. To accommodate this unavoidable problem, it is important to leave a small amount of space around the edges of the room you are installing laminate flooring. If you do not leave expansion clearance, the floors may warp and buckle not that long after installation. Be sure to leave about 1/2" of space along the edges of the room. To be safe, check with a professional to figure out what the best amount of space to leave is for the room type and climate. Watch for gaps between pieces. Most quality laminate flooring is made with grooves and other designs that allow the pieces to lock together. This helps to prevent gaps. Pieces that do not get locked together properly will drift apart over time. The gaps will show as dark lines which are actually open expanses. You can correct these spaces with a rubber mallet. Tap the pieces back together as soon as you notice the problem. If gaps are left unattended, moisture or debris will fall into the spaces and make it hard to fit them snugly back together. If you don't have a rubber mallet, find a tool that is durable enough to move the laminate but won't scratch or harm the laminate surface.	Be sure you are up to the challenge. Check the sub-floor. Choose quality material. Install proper underlayment. Monitor the temperature of the laminate. Follow the manufacturer's installation directions carefully. Inspect each piece of laminate. Allow room for expansion. Watch for gaps between pieces.
https://www.wikihow.com/Chill-Wine	How to Chill Wine	If you need to chill wine quickly, start by filling a bucket about 2/3 full of ice. Next, pour cold water to the top of the ice level and mix in a handful of salt to lower the freezing temperature. Then, submerge the wine bottle upright in the water and wait 2 minutes for red wine and 7 minutes for white wine. While you wait, rotate the neck of the bottle to chill the wine uniformly. Finally, remove the bottle, dry with a cloth, and serve immediately.	Try the fifteen minute rule for small-scale storage and serving. Store red wine at room temperature, then place in the fridge 15 minutes before serving. White wine, which is generally served a bit cooler, can be stored in the fridge, then removed 15 minutes before serving and placed at room temperature. This method isn't perfect, but will achieve temperatures that most wine drinkers will enjoy. Chill wine in the refrigerator for 40–150 minutes, for better results. If you have extra time, you can chill wine to a more desirable temperature. From room temperature, full-bodied red wines require about 40 minutes of chilling in the refrigerator. Light-bodied white wines will need a full 2½ hours to reach serving temperature. Chill wine in the freezer for rapid results. From room temperature, white wines will need about 15 minutes of chilling, or 20 if they are light-bodied with low alcohol content. Medium-bodied reds will be ready after 10 minutes, and full-bodied reds can take as little as 5. Set an alarm if you are likely to forget about the wine, as it could freeze if left in too long. The ice bucket method described below is even faster. Use a thermometer for precise control by grape variety and vintage. If you want to maximize your control over the wine's temperature, use an infrared thermometer or contact thermometer from a kitchen supply store. Wine aficionados determine the optimal temperature to serve wine at based on its body, or the feel and apparent alcohol level in the mouth: Light-bodied white wines should be chilled to around 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). This includes Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and all sparkling wines. Medium- to full-bodied white wines, such as Chardonnay and Sauternes, should be chilled to between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius). Light-bodied red wines like Pinot Noir and Merlot should be chilled down to between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (13 to 15 degrees Celsius). Full-bodied red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Shiraz should be served at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius). Use this method for last minute chilling. This method can cool a red wine to serving temperature in two minutes, and even a light-bodied, low-alcohol white wine can be properly chilled in five to ten minutes. Add ice to a bucket or large bowl. If you are using a wine bucket, fill it about ⅔ full of ice. For a larger bucket, fill it to approximately ⅔ the height of the wine bottle. Pour water to the top of the ice level. Pour the coldest water you have access to into the bucket, until it is level with the ice. Mix in a handful of salt. Salt lowers the freezing temperature of water, allowing the ice to cool the water a lower temperature than it would normally be able to. This in turn chills the wine bottle more quickly. Smaller grains of salt tend to be more effective. Rock salt will work, but may have a less noticeable effect. Submerge the bottle. Lower the wine bottle upright into the water. This should cause the ice water to rise above the shoulder of the wine bottle. Rotate the bottle. Spin the neck of the bottle with your hands while waiting for the wine to chill. The movement will cause the wine inside to move around in the bottle, so more of the warm wine comes into contact with the chilled bottle, speeding up the process slightly. Dry before serving. Remove the bottle when it reaches your preferred temperature, or after approximately 2 minutes for red and 7 minutes for white wine. Remove the bottle and dry it with a cloth or paper towel. Serve immediately. Store horizontally, in a cool, dark place. Always keep your wines in an area under 70ºF (21ºC) and away from direct sunlight. Store horizontally on a wine rack to keep the cork moist. Find alternatives to a wine cellar. If you plan to age wines or store expensive wines, but don't have a wine cellar, use a basement or closet. The temperature should be close to 55ºF (13ºC), and the area should be quite humid. If this environment is not available in your home, move on to the options below. Dig an underground storage space. You can build your own cheap "cellar" by excavating a pit in a shaded area of your backyard. Place the wine bottles inside a wooden box, insulate the box on all sides with aluminum foil, and lower it into the pit. Cover the pit with plywood or any sturdy cover. Including a thermometer is recommended, since soil temperatures and climate can vary greatly, but as long as the temperature stays stable at a temperature between roughly 45–60ºF (7–16ºC), it can be used to store wine at larger quantities and lower expense than a refrigeration system. Purchase a wine refrigerator. These are sometimes called electric wine cellars, and are the most expensive option for storing your wine, after hiring someone to dig a full-scale cellar! You may prefer to spend the extra money on pre-aged wines instead, but the wine fridge could be a good option if you have a few dozen bottles, or if you want to taste how different bottles of the same vintage age over time. Most wine refrigerators have warmer temperatures than regular refrigerators and keep humidity out better. Full-featured models allow different temperature zones for different types of wine.	Try the fifteen minute rule for small-scale storage and serving. Chill wine in the refrigerator for 40–150 minutes, for better results. Chill wine in the freezer for rapid results. Use a thermometer for precise control by grape variety and vintage. Use this method for last minute chilling. Add ice to a bucket or large bowl. Pour water to the top of the ice level. Mix in a handful of salt. Submerge the bottle. Rotate the bottle. Dry before serving. Store horizontally, in a cool, dark place. Find alternatives to a wine cellar. Dig an underground storage space. Purchase a wine refrigerator.
https://www.wikihow.com/Live-Without-Money	How to Live Without Money	If you want to live without money, you can try exchanging your time or energy in order to receive basic lodging and food. Reach out to a local organic farm and see if you can volunteer there, or try joining a religious community like the Buddhist Sanghas or a Christian monastery. If you want to be self-reliant while living without money, learn to find wild food, grow your own crops, or try living in the wilderness. Try reducing your spending or living money-free for a week to see if this is the right choice for you.	Try reducing your spending before you commit to living without money. Making the decision to live without spending money is life-changing, particularly if you are living with and/or supporting others. You may find it helpful to start small and go for a week or month without spending money to see if the cash-free life is for you. There are many ways to cut spending in your daily life, and even if you don't decide to go totally cashless, these techniques will help you save money. If you live in an area where walking or biking to work is feasible, you could avoid your commute and its expenses (gas, tolls, parking, car maintenance) by choosing self-powered transportation. Plus, it's great for boosting fitness! Try going for a week without buying any groceries. Use only the foods you currently have in your pantry and fridge to make meals. Many websites are available to help you create meals from ingredients you already have on hand. If you enjoy going out for entertainment, find free entertainment in your area. Your local newspaper's website will usually have listings of free activities and events. In addition to books and free internet, public libraries often have movies you can check out for free. Going for a walk or spending the evening playing games with friends or family is always free. www.moneyless.org is an online database of useful tips and tricks for pursuing a cash-free existence. Examine your (and your family’s) needs. If you're a single person, living without money will be much easier to manage than if you have a family. Because living cash-free is a huge commitment, you will want to make sure that your essential needs can still be met without money. For example, if you or a family member tend to require frequent medical care or prescription medications, living without money may not be a good option for you. If you live in an extreme climate, such as a place that is very hot or very cold, it may not be safe to live without some temperature control. This is especially true if your family includes small children or elderly persons, who are more prone to heat- and cold-related illnesses and fatalities. Read about others’ experiences. Whether you want to take up a nomadic lifestyle such as the German cash-free liver Heidemarie Schwermer or live completely off the land and off-grid in a cave like Daniel Suelo, reading what the experience of living without money has been like for others will help you decide whether you're up for the challenge. The Moneyless Man: A Year of Freeconomic Living by Mark Boyle is a first-person account of living without money. He has also written blogs, a book called The Moneyless Manifesto , and established a low-cost living website called Streetbank. The Man Who Quit Money by Mark Sundeen is a biography of Daniel Suelo, a man who has lived without money for over 14 years. The 2012 documentary film, Living Without Money , documents the life of Heidemarie Schwermer, a German woman who has been living without cash since the 1990s. Consider what you have to invest. Some things that make living without spending money easier, such as vegetable gardens, solar power grids, composting toilets, and water wells, require upfront investment. The financial rewards of reducing or even eliminating most of your household bills are significant, but may not happen overnight. If you live in an urban area and/or don't own your home, your options for some of these things may be reduced. You should do some research to understand what is feasible for you. Understand that some expenses may always be necessary. For example, if you require prescription medication, you should not simply stop spending money on it; consult a physician before stopping any medication. If you cannot or do not want to sell your house, you will need to continue making mortgage payments to avoid foreclosure and eviction. If you decide to keep a job, you will need to continue to pay taxes. In the United States, all adults are now required to carry health insurance under the Affordable Care Act mandates. Depending on how much income you make in a year (the threshold is currently $10,000 a year, but may change), you may be required to either pay for health insurance or pay a penalty. Live off the grid. Find or build a home that functions with solar, wind, or other renewable power. Use well water or a local stream for water. Install a composting toilet: it will save water, help the environment, and produce “humanure” for vegetable gardens. Campervans (sometimes called caravans or recreational vehicles) may be a good option if you cannot afford a full-size family home with these amenities. It is also easier to find a site near water with a mobile home. “Earthships” are eco-friendly, inexpensive dwellings that use waste products like old car tires and beer bottles as construction materials. You can often find these materials for free or very cheaply, and you can often barter for labor help. Even if you don't choose to move house or live entirely without money, things such as solar power panels and composting toilets are friendly to both budgets and the environment. Volunteer on an organic farm. World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms is an established, respected organization that coordinates volunteer opportunities all over the world. There is a small subscription fee for the service. Usually, you barter your labor for lodging and food. Some farms accept families. If you choose to volunteer in a foreign country, you will have to pay for a work visa. In addition, you will need enough money to cover your travel expenses. Volunteering on an organic farm can also be an excellent way to learn farming skills, which you can then use to grow your own food. Move to a like-minded community. Many cooperative communities exist with shared accommodation and shared goals and ideals. They may be called “intentional communities,” “communes,” “co-ops,” “ecovillages” or “cohousing.” You may be able to barter skills or food for your housing and support. You can find more information about these communities online. You will probably want to contact a potential community and visit before you commit to living there. Communal living isn't for everyone, and you'll want to make sure your potential home and your personality and values are a good match. Become a house sitter. If you are happy to move from place to place, then building a reputation as a responsible, trustworthy house sitter is a wonderful way to travel and live in comfort. Join online organizations such as Trusted House Sitters or Mind My House , or make a name for yourself in your local community as the go-to person for when people leave on vacation. You can also check out organizations such as Couchsurfing or The Hospitality Club if you are looking for temporary housing, your plans are very flexible, and you are interested in meeting new people. Live in the wilderness. It may take some time and effort to develop the necessary skills, but there are many opportunities for existing away from conventional housing. Caves and other natural shelters can be good choices. How to Live in the Wilderness Understand that this type of lifestyle is strenuous and requires excellent health and fitness. It is unlikely to be a good option if you are not in good health, or if you have children or elderly persons in your family. Move to a warmer climate. Living outside is much easier without vast fluctuations in temperatures, heavy rainfall, or frigid temperatures. Consider joining a religious community. There are many religions with communities dedicated to renouncing material living, such as Buddhist Sanghas and Christian monasteries and nunneries. These communities usually provide basic life support essentials such as clothing, shelter, and food, in exchange for your service and commitment. If your values and faith make this experience a good match for you, you can research your options online or by contacting someone within the community you wish to join. Religious communities usually only accept individuals. If you have a family, this is unlikely to be a good option for you. Educate yourself about your food options. If you plan to forage for food, find a good guidebook on what types of plants grow in your area, which are edible, and which are poisonous; Richard Mabey's Food For Free is a classic, illustrated handbook that is widely available and well-reviewed. If you plan to grow your own food, research the most effective ways of dividing land, planting seeds, and tending to your crops. If you have a university or college in your area, see if it has a cooperative extension. These offices provide education for the community on many things, including food cultivation and foraging, and often it is free to attend classes or get information. Remember that foods grow seasonally. Berries tend to be ready to be picked in the summer, while apples and nuts are harvestable in the autumn. Greens are often harvestable year-round. Whether you forage or grow your own crops, ensuring that you have foods to harvest year-round will help you keep a nutritionally balanced diet. Forage for wild food. Picking wild foods that grow in your vicinity is an enjoyable, eco-friendly way to spend a day and prepare a meal. Even if you live in a suburban neighborhood, your neighbors may have things like fruit trees that produce more food than they can use. Always ask before you take food from others. How to Forage for Food in the Fall Avoid collecting any nuts or plants which show signs of being partially eaten by another animal, have been broken open in a fall from a tree, or seem partially rotten, as these are likely to contain dangerous bacterial growth. Avoid picking greens and other plants near busy roads, or industrial sites, where runoff from the cars or pollution from industry may have contaminated your food source. Instead, look for food in rural, less developed areas, away from the impact of cars, industry, and technology. Never eat anything you cannot identify. If you're unsure whether something is hazardous, it's best to bypass it. Ask local stores, farmers markets, and restaurants for leftovers. Many grocery stores and restaurants throw away unwanted or excess food, as well as food that is past its sell-by date but still edible. Ask a manager what their policies are for disposing of these products. You can also ask vendors at local farmers markets if they have discarded produce you may take away. Be cautious of meat, dairy, and eggs, as the risk of bacterial growth and foodborne illness is higher. Independent and family-owned stores may be more accommodating than mega chain stores, although stores such as Trader Joe's are well-known for giving discarded food away. Make a name for yourself in your neighborhood. Most households waste thousands of dollars in uneaten food a year. Consider putting up a flyer in your local community center about yourself and your cash-free aspirations. Many people may be happy to donate slightly off fruits, vegetables, or older dried goods. Barter for food. Bartering, or haggling, for food, is a great way to negotiate prices, add variety to your diet, and exchange items you don't want for things that are more useful. How to Barter You may find that people are willing to offer you food or goods in exchange for odd jobs such as window washing or lawnmowing. Look at what you have to trade. Do you grow vegetables that your neighbors don't? Do you have skills that people around you need? Consider using your homegrown potatoes and handpicked berries, your fence-painting or babysitting skills, and your dog-walking experience to trade for fruits that you cannot grow or pick on your own, Remember: In a successful negotiation, both parties win. Be fair in your request. Is an hour of babysitting really worth ten pounds of fresh apples? Or is it more worth five? Grow your own food. The art of gardening is a financially savvy and personally fulfilling way to feed yourself from your own land and hands. It's possible even in an urban or suburban location to grow vegetables and fruits. Even if you can't subsist entirely on food you grow yourself, the produce you grow in your own garden will be healthier and cheaper than what you buy in the store. Decide what is most feasible to grow in your area. The easiest way to determine which plants thrive in your region is to visit a local farm or to speak with someone who tends an extensive food garden. Differences in regional climate and soil greatly affect which vegetables and fruits thrive in which areas. Build a greenhouse! Using recycled garbage bags over a wood frame, you can grow hardy vegetables, such as potatoes, Brussel sprouts, and radishes, in colder climates, even when there is snow on the ground. Ask your neighbors if any are interested in co-opting a garden space. Sharing the labor and time necessary to grow your own food, in exchange for a larger space of land, and a greater variety of fruits and vegetables is a wonderful way to diversify your diet, decrease your workload, and build community friendships. Start a compost pile near your home for your garden. Food that you collect that is no longer suitable for eating is still perfect for decomposing into a nutritious soil, perfect for your fruits, vegetables, and grains. Learn to barter. Many online communities, such as Freegle , Freecycle , and Streetbank , offer listings of items and skills available for free. Sometimes the item may be something someone just wants to give away, or you may find people willing to trade items for skills you have. Look for items you want to get rid of. One's man trash is another man's treasure, so instead of selling your old shoes or watch on eBay, or throwing them away, try using them in exchange for items or services that you need. Remember that you can also barter for services. If your home needs repairs, see if you can exchange some time or skills of your own in exchange for the repair. Grow your own toiletries. You can plant soapwort in your garden to provide soap and shampoo. Pastes made of baking soda or even plain salt can work as natural, homemade toothpaste. Go “dumpster diving. ” Many things are simply thrown away that can be useful to cash-free living. How to Dumpster Dive Discarded newspapers can serve as toilet paper. Stores may discard personal care products like deodorant and hygiene goods that are still safe for use after their “sell-by” date. Many stores and restaurants throw away food. Anything that contains meat, dairy, shellfish, or eggs should not be scavenged. Avoid anything that smells rotten or odd. Foods such as bread, canned goods, and packaged products like chips can usually be eaten safely, but make sure they are wrapped and not dented, torn, or bulging. Be aware that dumpsters may pose hazards such as broken glass, rats, and even biological waste. If you choose to rummage through a dumpster, come prepared: items such as rubber boots, gloves, and flashlights can help you dive safely. Do not dumpster dive in any area that is marked as “No Trespassing” or similar. It may be illegal and is certainly not worth the hassle of being stopped or even arrested. Arrange a community swap. If you have things in good condition that you no longer use, arrange a swap night. Invite your friends and neighbors to bring things they no longer want, need, or use. You can advertise with flyers or with postings on Craigslist, Facebook, and other social media. This is a great way to get rid of things like baby clothes that children have outgrown or toys they no longer play with. You can also swap books you've already read for new-to-you books, or get rid of extra linens and towels in exchange for things you need more of. Make your own clothes. Barter for a sewing kit and some fabric, and exchange goods for a few lessons on how to sew. You can scavenge for unused or still usable cloth, towels, and sheets to use as fabric. Fabric and craft stores may also have small scraps they're willing to give away. Repair holes, tears, rips, and worn spots. Keep any spare pieces of fabric from unwearable items to use as a patch when needed. Arrange a skill swap. Barter isn't just for goods and services! Host a community skill-sharing group so that people can teach other what they know and learn things they don't know. This is also a great way to socialize and make friends without spending money. Sell or trade your car. Owning a car is all but impossible to do without the use of cash unless you have access to a mechanic who accepts trades or bartering, and a gas station which will let you work in exchange for fuel. Check in your area for carpool incentives and communities. If you absolutely must keep a car, some cities offer financial incentives if you carpool with others. You may also be able to ride to work with other people who will help pay for your gas and car upkeep. Negotiate rides with members of your community. Many people commute daily to work, school, and other places. Exchange food and services for rides to places you need to go. Websites such as Liftshare, Ridester, and Carpool World can also help you find carpooling and ride share options in your community. Hitchhiking can be an option if you need to travel long distances, but exercise caution! Hitchhiking can be dangerous, particularly if you travel alone. Get a bicycle. If you will be traveling further distances regularly, or walking is not a viable option for you, cycling is a fast, eco-friendly way to travel. It will also help you stay fit! Attach a basket to the front and back of the bicycle to help carry food and other items. Stay in good health. Walking is the easiest, most accessible and cash-free means of getting around. A healthy, hydrated body can cover at least 20 miles in a day without strain, but you'll need proper shoes, water, and food to cover this distance. Prepare emergency backup plans for walks in colder weather. A light snowstorm can quickly turn into a blizzard, and if you are walking several miles from your home, this can become an emergency situation. Consider going with a friend, or making sure someone knows where you will be and what time to expect you back.	Try reducing your spending before you commit to living without money. Examine your (and your family’s) needs. Read about others’ experiences. Consider what you have to invest. Understand that some expenses may always be necessary. Live off the grid. Volunteer on an organic farm. Move to a like-minded community. Become a house sitter. Live in the wilderness. Consider joining a religious community. Educate yourself about your food options. Forage for wild food. Ask local stores, farmers markets, and restaurants for leftovers. Barter for food. Grow your own food. Start a compost pile near your home for your garden. Learn to barter. Grow your own toiletries. Go “dumpster diving. Arrange a community swap. Make your own clothes. Arrange a skill swap. Sell or trade your car. Negotiate rides with members of your community. Get a bicycle. Stay in good health.
https://www.wikihow.health/Prevent-Cervical-Cancer	How to Prevent Cervical Cancer	To help catch cervical cancer before it starts, get regular pelvic exams and pap smears from your gynecologist so that they can detect any precancerous cells. You will probably need yearly exams until you're 30, but these screenings typically become less frequent as you get older. Additionally, you can reduce your risk of developing cervical cancer by getting the HPV vaccine and using condoms when you have sex.	Get regular screenings. Cervical cancer starts with the presence of HPV (human papillomavirus), which is the most common sexually transmitted infection. Virtually everyone has HPV at least once in their life, if not more; however, the infection most often shows no symptoms so most people are unaware of having it. HPV, over time, can lead to precancerous chances in the sensitive cells around the cervix. This eventually poses the risk of developing into cervical cancer. Most people are able to clear the infection, which eliminates the risk of cervical cancer; however, if you aren't able to clear the infection then you are at risk for cervical cancer. By getting regular screenings, you can catch any suspicious cells early and have them treated. Regular screening is the most effective way to prevent cervical cancer. See your doctor for a Pap test. A Pap test is recommended three years after the onset of sexual activity, or beginning at age 21 (whichever comes first). Women should continue receiving Pap tests until the age 65, or until your doctor says otherwise. A Pap test entails your doctor insert a speculum (a metal or plastic device) into your vagina so that they can see the cervix. Your doctor will then take a sample of cells from the cervix for examination under the microscope. A Pap test is usually performed annually for the first few years. After that, if you have clear results, your doctor may recommend you come back every three years if you are between the ages of 21 and 29. After age 30 it is every three years unless you also have a negative HPV testing, and then it is every five years. If any cellular abnormalities are detected on your Pap test, your doctor will call you back in for a follow-up appointment. Results are normally reported back within a few weeks; however, don't panic if your doctor calls you back as there are several other reasons they may want to see you and it does not necessarily mean that you are at risk of cervical cancer. Also, the benefit of receiving Pap tests is that, as long as you do them regularly, any suspicious lesions tend to be caught early enough to remove them before any further problems arise. Prepare properly for a Pap test. If you are planning to see your doctor for a Pap test within the next two days, it is important to avoid the following: Sexual intercourse Douching your vagina Tampon insertion Using any birth control foams or jellies Inserting any creams or medications into your vagina Being on your period. Be sure to schedule your Pap test for a time when you will not have your period. If you do have your period, your doctor will be unable to properly perform the test as it will cloud the results. Consider HPV testing. In addition to the usual Pap test, you can ask your doctor to test you for the presence of the HPV virus at the same time. This is called "co-testing." The benefit of testing for HPV at the same time as analyzing the cells around your cervix is that, if both tests give you clear results, you can have even higher confidence of not being at risk for cervical cancer. A negative HPV test and regular Pap will also decrease how often you get your paps, from every three years to every five years. Recognize the risk factors for cervical cancer. Understanding what increases your chances of developing cervical cancer can help you to cut back and to adopt safer behaviors. Risk factors for cervical cancer include the following: Multiple sexual partners Unprotected sex (without condoms) Smoking HIV/AIDS (an illness that suppresses your immune system) Long-term birth control use (greater than five years) Any type of immune suppression, including immunosuppressive drugs Get vaccinated. There are two HPV vaccines available, Gardasil and Cervarix, that are recommended for girls around the age of 12. These vaccines prevent the strains of HPV that are most likely to lead to cervical cancer and/or genital warts. Although the vaccines are not 100% effective, they greatly diminishes one's risk of contracting a strain of HPV that is a precursor for cervical cancer. You are also eligible to get the vaccine even if you have already had an abnormal pap. Note that having been vaccinated does not mean you no longer need Pap tests. Pap tests are still recommended in order to be sure that there are no suspicious cells or lesions around your cervix. Also, if you are between the ages of 13 and 26 and have not yet received the vaccine, speak to your doctor. You are still eligible to receive it between these ages. The sooner you can get vaccinated the better, as it is ideal to receive the vaccine prior to initiating sex, or at least with a history of as few sexual partners as possible. This is because HPV is a sexually transmitted infection that cannot be cured; it can only be prevented. . Quit smoking Smoking has been linked to a heightened risk of cervical cancer (and of cancers elsewhere in the body, too). If you smoke and are interested in quitting, speak to your doctor who can help you with strategies and support for quitting. The benefits from quitting smoking are numerous, including a reduced risk of cervical cancer. Practice safe sex. Because cervical cancer is linked to HPV, a sexually transmitted infection, practicing safe sex and using condoms during sex can decrease your risk. Also, be aware that multiple sexual partners is linked to a higher risk of cervical cancer, so be selective in who you choose to have sex with. Understand the importance of screening tests and early diagnosis. Cervical cancer is one of the most prevalent cancers in women; however, if you follow through with regular screening tests as directed by your doctor, you can diminish your risk of contracting cervical cancer to almost zero. This is because it is one of the few cancers that can be detected and treated early, at the "precancerous stage," before it develops into a full-blown cancer. Therefore, with early diagnosis and treatment, virtually all cases of cervical cancer can be prevented before they become worrisome to your health. Follow through with further investigations as needed. If your Pap test reveals suspicious cells or a worrisome lesion, your doctor will advise you on a course of action to follow up on the cause for concern. This may include a second Pap test shortly after the first one, to monitor any progression or changes to the cells. Alternatively, it may involve a procedure called a "colposcopy," which is essentially where doctors use a microscope-like instrument to visually examine your cervix at a high enough magnification to detect any precancerous or cancerous concerns. Your doctor will apply acetic acid (a substance similar to vinegar) to any concerning areas during your colposcopy exam. This helps your doctor to see which areas have suspicious cells. If an area of concern is noted, your doctor will take a biopsy of the area. This will then be examined under the microscope. If caught early enough, the suspicious lesion can often be removed without long-term consequences; however, if it is an invasive cancer, you will need to see an oncologist for direction regarding further treatments, such as surgery, radiation, and/or chemotherapy. Be aware of concerning symptoms. Suspicious cells around the cervix, as well as cervical cancer itself, often have no associated symptoms. Only later-stage more advanced cervical cancer tends to present with symptoms, such as: Abnormal bleeding or discharge from your vagina Bleeding and/or abnormal pain with sexual intercourse Note that presence of the above symptoms is a definite sign of concern and warrants prompt medical attention and evaluation.	Get regular screenings. See your doctor for a Pap test. Prepare properly for a Pap test. Consider HPV testing. Recognize the risk factors for cervical cancer. Get vaccinated. . Practice safe sex. Understand the importance of screening tests and early diagnosis. Follow through with further investigations as needed. Be aware of concerning symptoms.
https://www.wikihow.com/Serve-a-Tennis-Ball	How to Serve a Tennis Ball	To serve a tennis ball, start by standing behind the baseline so you're opposite the service box you'll be serving to. For example, if you're serving to your opponent's right service box, you should be on the right side of the court. Next, once you're in position, toss the ball up in the air in front of you, and bring your tennis racket behind you. Then, swing your racket up and try to hit the ball at the highest point you can reach. Finally, follow through on your swing by bringing you racket down to your opposite foot.	Get in position. Before you begin to serve the ball, you have to stand behind the baseline, on the side opposite the service box where you'll be serving. You should stand sideways, pointing your left foot to the opposite post of the net, with your right foot being parallel to the court. For singles, stand close to the center mark. For doubles, stand farther toward one side, depending on what type of serve you plan to execute and the strategy you and your partner have planned. If you're serving toward your opponent's right service box, you should be standing on the right side (deuce side) of your court. If you're serving toward your opponent's left service box, then you should be standing on the left side (add side) of your court. Your right shoulder should always be pointed in the direction of the service box where you are serving. You get two chances to serve the ball into the opposite service box. If you miss both times, that is considered a double fault and you should move to serve to the other service box. If your ball hits the net and drops into the service box, that is considered a let and you can replay the serve; you can have an unlimited amount of lets, though this does not happen very often. These instructions for serving are for right-handed players. If you're a lefty -- which happens to be a huge advantage in the game of tennis -- just use the opposite hands and feet. Grip the ball and racket correctly. Grip the ball lightly toward the fingertips rather than in the palm. Bring your ball hand toward your racket to help line up the serve and shift your weight slightly forward. Remember that before you toss the ball, you should bounce it at least 2-4 times to get into the rhythm of serving and to get a feel for the court. For a flat serve, you should hold the tennis racket using a Continental grip. For this grip, you should hold the racket perpendicular to the ground, with your pointer finger along the first bevel of the racket, so that your thumb and index finger make a "V" shape when you look down at your hand. Many new players try to grip the racket as tightly and as hard as they can. This should not be the case, especially not when you serve. Keeping your grip more relaxed -- about a 4 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being the loosest -- will give your serve more power and fluidity. Toss the ball and bring your racket behind you. You should toss the ball high up in the air, a little bit in front of you, so you have momentum when you serve the ball; remember that you can "fall in" to the court after you make contact with the ball, so it's okay to toss the ball in front of you. You can also practice your toss several times to find the optimal serving point; a great toss can be the key to an amazing serve, and a bad toss will ruin a serve more often than not. Before you toss the ball, bring the ball to the flat racket face in front of you. Drop your racquet head downward while shifting your weight back and bring your racquet behind you in an arc-like motion. At the same time, begin to toss the ball slightly in front of you toward the court. This can be done slowly and deliberately. When tossing, remember that you are not throwing the ball; you should just let go of the ball when it is at the top. Imagine you're placing the ball up on a shelf. The ball should be just a bit higher than you can reach with your racquet. In order to have the highest chance of hitting the ball you need to throw it straight up, or slightly toward the net without spin. After you release the ball with your hand, you can keep it up or above you for guidance and stability. "Scratch your back" with your racket. Most beginners just kind of raise their racket in the air slightly behind them and then go after the ball. Not you! For optimal success, you should bring the racquet head up above behind you and bend your elbow so as to drop it behind your head, as if you were to scratch your back with the side of your racket. Bend your knees to help project the racquet head upwards; it will give the ball more power. Once you get good at it, you'll have this down as one fluid motion -- tossing the ball up with one hand while "scratching your back" with your racket with the other. Practice the toss along with this motion as much as you want before actually hitting the ball (just not during a game, or you will try your opponent's patience.). You will see that some beginners like to lift the racket up behind their back before they toss the ball. Though this will make it easier to hit the ball, in some ways, you will generate much less power and momentum this way. As you release the ball you're tossing, load your back knee by forcing most of your weight onto your back leg. You can bend both of your knees but focus on having most of your weight in your back leg so you can use it to spring forward when you make contact. Hit the ball with the "sweet spot" of the racket. Bring the racquet head up to hit the ball with as much speed as you can while keeping control. Your shoulders will rotate similarly to how they would if they were throwing a ball. Don't try to hit as hard as you can; instead try to be fluid. Make sure you pronate your wrist so the ball is hit with the racquet face, right in the center of the racquet. Pronation is necessary in every type of serve, including flat, slice, topspin, twist, and topspin-slice. If you hit the ball off-center, you won't have as much control over where it will land. If you hit the ball with the frame of the racket, then 9 times out of 10, it won't land in the service box. Hit the ball at its highest point. To optimize your shots, you should hit the ball at the highest point that you can reasonably hit it at after you toss it. The higher the ball, the more easily you'll be able to generate speed, and the more likely it will be to clear the net. Think of it like this: someone is tossing a ball up high over a fence right in front of you, and you have to hit the ball not just over the fence but over the fence so it bounces on the ground as quickly as possible; this snapping motion will allow you to hit the ball in an arc, instead of a straight line, giving it as much power as possible. Many beginners toss the ball far too low, just over their heads, and then strain their whole bodies to get the ball to fall into the other service box. Though this can be done, it's an unwieldy shot and won't give you the best results. Follow through by bringing your racket down near the bottom of your opposite foot. At the end of the contact with the ball, snap your wrist downward to get the ball in the best position. Transfer the weight from your back leg onto your front leg to propel the ball forward. You may even end the serve with your right (or dominant) leg lifted off the ground. "Fall into the court" after your serve. The follow-through as you finish the serve should naturally cause you to step forward into the court. Be prepared for the ball to come back. Always look at the ball. Never look at the opponent. This way, you can anticipate where the ball is going to fall and react quicker. Remember that footwork is absolutely key in your reactions to the ball; take hundreds of tiny baby steps to get you to the optimal position you need to be in to hit the ball if it is returned to you. And if your opponent cannot return the serve, then well done! Do not cross the service line before you make contact with the ball. Your feet can not cross the service line until after you have made contact with the ball for it to be a legal serve. Your goal is to get the ball in or touching the lines of the service box diagonally to the side of the center mark from where you're standing. It's good to get into this habit even though refs or opposing players rarely call a "foot fault" during play. There was the exception of Serena Williams, who was penalized for a foot fault in the 2011 US Open women's semi-final, which caused her to basically lose the match! Practice. Start adding power to the serve by increasing the racquet head speed, as well as using your leg strength to attack the ball. The serve is often the hardest stroke to master in tennis, so don't give up; be patient and keep practicing! Whether you're practicing with a coach or on your own, take an entire bucket of balls to one side of the court and practice getting into the grove with your serve. If you develop a killer serve, you'll be a tough opponent to beat; and on the other side of the coin, if you have a weak serve, it'll be hard to dominate a game. Keep your opponent on his toes. Once you've mastered the flat serve, you can learn to start thinking about where you'll be hitting your serve within your opponent's court. If you always hit the serve in the middle of the service box, close to the center of the court ("down the line"), or off to the far side of the box, then your opponent will know where your serve will land and will be prepared to go there and to strike back in advance. That's why you've got to keep your opponent guessing by hitting the ball in different parts of the court; use your feet and shoulders to help land the ball in different parts of the service box. You can also look out to see if your opponent has a weaker forehand or backhand. Typically, many beginners really struggle with the backhand. If you find a weakness, try to land your serves in the part of the service box that will force your opponent to use his or her weaker stroke. Use the slice serve. The slice serve is a deadly (and more advanced) serve that is perfect for stopping the ball or making it change direction once it hits your opponent's service box. The slice serve is guaranteed to surprise your opponent and to make it more difficult for your opponent to return the serve. Here's what you do: Move farther away from the middle of the baseline to get a better angle. Stand halfway between the middle of the court and the sideline. Continue to use the Continental grip. Toss the ball in front of you and a little bit to the right. Picture yourself hitting the ball from left to right. This would be like hitting the ball from 9 to 3, if there was a clock drawn on the ball. Move forward with the edge of the racket going forward. Rotate your shoulders so you face your body toward the target. Make contact with the ball, brushing the back of the ball toward your dominant side. Strike the ball laterally on your dominant side. For a righty, hitting a side spin slice will make the ball curve to the left. Use the kick serve. The kick serve is achieved by tossing the ball over your head and then hitting the ball laterally on your non-dominant side. The motion brushes the ball upward, toward your dominant side, and will make the ball clear the net in a high arc with a heavy topspin, making the ball dive down into the service box and then bounce up high, making it quite difficult to return. This type of serve is used more as a novelty, and can be a great trick for surprising your opponents. Here's what you do: Toss the ball behind your head instead of in front of it. Bend your knees, bringing your hips forward. Spring toward the ball while keeping your hitting elbow and head up. Brush the back of the ball with fast racket-head speed. Uncoil at the very top of your swing. Follow through. Use the twist serve. This serve is an even more extreme version of the kick serve, which requires you to brush the ball from its 7-8 o'clock position to the 1-2 o'clock position. You should also swing the racket even faster than you would during the kick serve. If you do this correctly, you can change the direction of the ball completely, though it requires a lot of skill and flexibility. Use the underhanded serve (for children or beginners). Though the underhand serve is not used in professional or any competitive tennis play (except very rarely when your opponent is tired or feeling sneaky), this is a great serve to use for beginners and children because it's easier to get the ball to clear the net and to land in the service box and to begin play. Here's how you do the underhand serve: Position your feet parallel to the baseline. Hold the ball with your non-dominant hand. Hold out your racket with your dominant hand, so the ball is parallel to the racket face. Move your racket back behind you, as if you were to hit a forehand. Drop the ball and make contact with the ball just as it falls, serving it over the net as if you were hitting a regular forehand shot. Continue to mix it up. You don't have to only hit a flat serve or a slice serve. If you want to keep your opponent guessing, then mix it up. Hit flat serves for an entire game, and then suddenly bust out a slice serve for the next few points. Or serve only the slice serve, and suddenly shock your opponent with a kick serve. If your opponent gets too settled in a routine or you feel like your serves just aren't having their intended effect, then make sure you're not becoming too predictable. And remember that the more skilled you are at serving, the more likely you are to dominate a game of tennis!	Get in position. Grip the ball and racket correctly. Toss the ball and bring your racket behind you. "Scratch your back" with your racket. Hit the ball with the "sweet spot" of the racket. Hit the ball at its highest point. Follow through by bringing your racket down near the bottom of your opposite foot. "Fall into the court" after your serve. Do not cross the service line before you make contact with the ball. Practice. Keep your opponent on his toes. Use the slice serve. Use the kick serve. Use the twist serve. Use the underhanded serve (for children or beginners). Continue to mix it up.
https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-and-Treat-a-Prolapsed-Bladder	How to Diagnose and Treat a Prolapsed Bladder	A prolapsed bladder occurs when the muscles of your vaginal wall weaken and your bladder drops into your vagina. Prolapsed bladders are often caused by pregnancy and childbirth, but sometimes occur after menopause or excessive physical strain. Common signs that your bladder has prolapsed include pain, pressure, or discomfort in your lower abdomen or vagina and leaking urine when you cough, laugh, or move around too much. When sitting down, you might feel like there's a small egg underneath you. If you experience any of these symptoms, visit your doctor as soon as possible. After diagnosing you, they may advise treatment such as pelvic exercises, medication, and in rare cases, surgery.	Feel for a bulge of tissue in your vagina. In serious cases, you may be able to feel your bladder descend into your vagina. When you sit down, it may feel like you are sitting on a ball or an egg; this feeling may disappear when you stand up or lie down. This is the most obvious symptom of a cystocele, and you should see your primary care physician or gynecologist as soon as possible. This feeling is generally considered a sign of a severe prolapsed bladder. Note any pelvic pain or discomfort. If you have any pain, pressure, or discomfort in your lower abdomen, pelvic area, or vagina, you should see a doctor. Any number of conditions, including a prolapsed bladder, could cause those symptoms. If you have a cystocele, this pain, pressure, or discomfort may increase when you cough, sneeze, exert yourself or otherwise place pressure on the muscles of your pelvic floor. If this is the case, be sure you mention it to your doctor. If you have a prolapsed bladder, you may also feel like something is falling out of your vagina. Consider any urinary symptoms. If you tend to leak urine when you cough , sneeze, laugh, or exert yourself, you have what's known as “stress incontinence.” Women who have given birth are particularly susceptible, and a prolapsed bladder can be a major cause. See your doctor to resolve the issue. Notice as well if you've experienced any changes when you urinate, including difficulty initiating a stream of urine, incomplete emptying of the bladder (also known as urinary retention), and increased urinary frequency and urgency. Note if you've had frequent bladder infections, or urinary tract infections (UTIs). "Frequent" is defined as having more than one UTI in a six-month period. Women with cystoceles often wind up with frequent bladder infections, so it's worth paying attention to the frequency of your UTIs. Take pain during sexual intercourse seriously. Pain during sex is called “dyspareunia” and can be triggered by a number of physical conditions, including a prolapsed bladder. If you are dealing with dyspareunia, you should see your primary care physician or gynecologist as soon as possible. If pain during intercourse is a new development for you, and you've recently delivered a baby vaginally, then a prolapsed bladder is a particularly likely cause. Don't delay seeing your doctor. Monitor your back pain. Some women with cystoceles also experience pain, pressure, or discomfort in the lower back area. Back pain is a very general symptom that could mean many things – or nothing serious at all – but it makes sense to schedule an appointment with your doctor. This is especially the case if you are experiencing any of the other symptoms. Know that some women have no symptoms at all. If your case is a mild one, you may not notice any the above symptoms. Some cystoceles are first discovered during routine gynecological examinations. However, if you exhibit or experience any of the symptoms described above, you should consult your primary care physician (PCP) or gynecologist. If you do not experience symptoms there is often no need for treatment. Know that pregnancy and childbirth is the most common cause of a prolapsed bladder. During pregnancy and childbirth, your pelvic muscles and supportive tissues are strained and stretched. Since these are the muscles that hold your bladder in place, serious stress or weakness on them can allow the bladder to slip down into the vagina. Women who have been pregnant, especially if they had multiple vaginal births, are at high risk for the development of cystoceles. Even women who delivered by cesarean are at risk. Recognize the role of menopause. Postmenopausal women are at significant risk for a prolapsed bladder due to reduced levels of the female sex hormone estrogen. Estrogen is partly responsible for maintaining the strength, tone, and resilience of your vaginal muscles. As a result, the low levels of estrogen accompanying the transition into menopause cause these muscles to become thinner and less elastic, which leads to overall weakening. Note that this drop in estrogen takes place even if you enter menopause through artificial means, as with the surgical removal of your uterus (hysterectomy) and/or ovaries. These surgeries not only cause damage to the pelvic area, but also cause changes in estrogen levels. Therefore, though you may be younger than most menopausal women and otherwise healthy, you are still at risk for a cystocele. Be aware of muscle strain as a factor. Intense straining or heavy lifting can sometimes trigger a prolapse. When you strain the muscles of your pelvic floor, you risk triggering a prolapsed bladder (especially if the muscles of your vaginal wall have already been weakened by menopause or childbirth). Types of straining that can cause a cystocele include: Lifting very heavy objects (including children) Chronic, intense coughing Constipation and straining during bowel movements Consider your weight. If you are overweight or obese, your risk of a prolapsed bladder is increased. The extra weight places additional strain on the muscles of your pelvic floor. Whether someone is overweight or obese is determined by using the body mass index (BMI), an indicator of body fatness. BMI is a person's weight in kilograms (kg) divided by the square of the person's height in meters (m). A BMI of 25-29.9 is considered overweight, while a BMI greater than 30 is considered obese. Make an appointment with a physician. If you think you may have a prolapsed bladder, schedule an appointment with your primary care physician or gynecologist. Be prepared to give your doctor as much information as possible, including a complete medical history and a detailed description of your symptoms. Have a pelvic exam. As a first step, your doctor will probably perform a routine gynecological exam. In this exam, the cystocele is detected by applying a speculum (a tool for inspecting body orifices) against the posterior (back) vaginal wall while you lie back with your knees bent and ankles supported by stirrups. The physician will likely ask you to "bear down" (as if you were pushing during childbirth or having a bowel movement) or cough. If a cystocele is present, the doctor will see or feel a soft mass bulging into the anterior (front) vaginal wall when you strain. A bladder that has ended up in the vagina is considered positive diagnosis of a prolapsed bladder. In some cases, in addition to performing the standard pelvic exam, your doctor may want to examine you standing up. It can be beneficial to evaluate a prolapse from different positions. If your doctor notices a prolapse in the back wall of your vagina, she is likely to also perform a rectal exam. This will help her determine the strength of your muscles. You don't need to prepare for this examination in any way and it should not take very long. You may feel slight discomfort during the pelvic exam, but for many women this is just a routine exam much like having pap smears. Have further testing if you are experiencing bleeding, incontinence, or sexual dysfunction. Your doctor will likely recommend tests known as cystometrics or urodynamics. A cystometric study measures how full your bladder is when you first feel the need to urinate, when your bladder feels "full," and when your bladder is actually completely full. Your doctor will ask you to urinate into a container that is connected to a computer, which will take some measurements. Then you will lie on an examination table and the doctor will insert a thin, flexible catheter into your bladder. Urodynamics is a set of tests. It includes measured voiding (aka uroflow), which will time how long it takes you to start urinating, how long urination takes to complete, and how much urine you produce. It also includes cystometry, as mentioned above. It will also include a voiding or emptying phase test. In most urodynamics tests, your doctor will place a thin, flexible catheter into the bladder, which will remain in place as you urinate. A special sensor will gather data for your doctor to interpret. Talk to your doctor about additional testing. In some cases, usually when your prolapse is more severe, your doctor may recommend additional tests. Common additional tests include: Urinalysis - In a urinalysis, your urine will be tested for signs of infection (such as a UTI). The doctor will also test your bladder to see if it empties completely. This is done by inserting a catheter (tube) into a woman's urethra to remove and measure the amount of remaining urine after voiding, the post-void residual (PVR). A PVR of more than 50-100 milliliters is diagnostic for urinary retention, one of the symptoms of a prolapsed bladder. Ultrasound with PVR - An ultrasound test sends out sound waves that bounce off the bladder and back to the ultrasound machine, producing in the process an image of the bladder. This image also shows the amount of urine remaining in the bladder after urination, or voiding. Voiding cystourethrogram (VCUG) – This is a test in which a doctor takes x-rays during urination (voiding) to view the bladder and evaluate problems. A VCUG shows the shape of the bladder and analyzes urine flow to pinpoint any potential blockages. The test can also be used to diagnose stress urinary incontinence masked by a cystocele. It is important to make this dual diagnosis, as the patient will also need an incontinence procedure in addition to a cystocele repair (if surgery is needed). Get a specific diagnosis. Once your doctor confirms the presence of a prolapsed bladder, you should ask for a more detailed diagnosis. Cystoceles are divided into categories based on severity. The best course of treatment will depend on what kind of cystocele you have, as well as the symptoms it is causing in your life. Your prolapsed bladder may fall into any of the following “grades”: Grade 1 prolapses are mild. If you have a Grade 1 cystocele, only part of your bladder is descending into your vagina. You may exhibit mild symptoms such as slight discomfort and urine leakage, but some women don't exhibit any symptoms. Treatment may consist of Kegel exercises, rest, and avoidance of heavy lifting or straining. If you are postmenopausal, estrogen replacement therapy is also a consideration. Grade 2 prolapses are moderate. If you have a Grade 2 cystocele, the entire bladder descends into the vagina. It may reach so far that it touches the vaginal opening. Symptoms such as discomfort and urinary incontinence become moderate. Surgery to repair the cystocele may be warranted, but you may be able to get adequate symptom relief with a vaginal pessary (a small plastic or silicone device that you place inside your vagina to hold the walls in place). Grade 3 prolapses are severe. If you have a Grade 3 cystocele, part of the bladder actually bulges through the vaginal opening. Symptoms such as discomfort and urinary incontinence become severe. Cystocele repair surgery and/or pessary as with a grade 2 cystocele is required. Grade 4 prolapses are complete. If you have a Grade 4 cystocele, the entire bladder descends through the vaginal opening. In these cases, you may experience other severe problems, including uterine and rectal prolapses. See if you need treatment. A Grade 1 prolapsed bladder usually requires no medical treatment as long as it is not accompanied by pain or discomfort for the sufferer. Check with your physician as to whether she recommends medical treatment or more of a "wait-and-see" approach. If your symptoms do not bother you very much, your doctor is likely to recommend basic treatment approaches including Kegel exercises and physical therapy. Note that your physician may recommend that you back off certain activities, like weight lifting or other activities that put strain on your pelvic muscles. It's still healthy to exercise regularly, though. You should also know that how your symptoms affect your quality of life is a key factor in deciding on treatment. For example, you may have a severe prolapse but are not troubled by your symptoms. In this case, you could talk with your doctor about less severe treatment options. On the other hand, you might have a mild prolapse, but the symptoms cause you significant distress or inconvenience. You could talk with your doctor about a more aggressive approach. Practice Kegel exercises. Kegel exercises are performed by contracting the muscles of your pelvic floor (as if you were attempting to stop the flow of urine), holding them for a brief period, and then releasing them. Regular performance of these exercises, which require no special equipment and can be performed anywhere (including while waiting in line, at a desk, or relaxing on the couch), can strengthen your muscles. In mild cases, they can keep your prolapsed bladder from descending further. To perform Kegel exercises: Contract, or tighten, the pelvic floor muscles. These are the muscles used to stop the flow of urine when urinating. Hold the contraction for five seconds and then relax for five. Work up to holding the contraction for ten seconds at a time. Your goal is three to four sets of 10 repetitions of the exercises daily Use a pessary. A pessary is a small, silicone device that, when inserted into the vagina, holds the bladder (and other pelvic organs) in place. Some are made for you to insert yourself; others need to be inserted by a doctor. Pessaries come in a variety of shapes and sizes and a healthcare professional can help a woman choose the most comfortable fit. Pessaries can be uncomfortable, and some women have trouble keeping them from falling out. They may also cause vaginal ulceration (if not correctly sized) and infection (if not routinely removed and cleaned on a monthly basis). You will likely need a topical estrogen cream to prevent damage to your vaginal walls. Despite these disadvantages, a pessary can be a valuable alternative, particularly if you wish to postpone or are not a good candidate for surgery. Talk to your doctor, and weigh the pros and cons for your particular case. Try estrogen replacement therapy. Because a reduced level of estrogen is so frequently responsible for weakened vaginal muscles, your doctor may suggest estrogen therapy. Estrogen can be prescribed as a pill, vaginal cream, or ring inserted into the vagina in an effort to strengthen weak pelvic floor muscles. The cream doesn't absorb very well and thus is strongest on the area where it is applied. Estrogen therapy does have risks. Women with certain types of cancer should not take estrogen, and you should discuss the potential dangers and benefits with your doctor. In general, topical estrogen treatments are less risky than oral, “systemic” estrogen treatments. Undergo surgery. If other treatments do not work, or if your cystocele is very severe (Grade 3 or 4), your doctor may recommend surgery. Surgery works better for some women than others. For example, if you have plans for future children, you may wish to postpone the surgery until after your family is complete to avoid prolapse happening again after childbirth. Older women may also have higher risks associated with surgery. A common surgical treatment for prolapse is vaginoplasty. A surgeon will lift your bladder into place, and then may tighten and reinforce your vaginal muscles to make sure that everything stays where it should. There are other surgical procedures to be considered, and your doctor will recommend the one she believes is best for your unique situation. A surgeon will explain the procedure and all of its risks and advantages and potential complications before the surgery. Potential complications include a UTI, incontinence, bleeding, infection, and in some rare cases, damage to the urinary retract that requires surgery to repair properly. It's also a possibility that women may experience irritation or pain during sexual intercourse after the surgery due to a suture or scar tissue inside of them. Depending on the specifics of your case, you may need either local, regional or general anesthesia. Many women can return home within one to three days post-operation and most patients can return to normal activity levels after about six weeks. If you also have a prolapsed uterus, your doctor may recommend a hysterectomy to remove it. This can be done along with the surgery. If the cystocele is accompanied by stress urinary incontinence, a simultaneous urethral suspension procedure may be needed.	Feel for a bulge of tissue in your vagina. Note any pelvic pain or discomfort. Consider any urinary symptoms. Take pain during sexual intercourse seriously. Monitor your back pain. Know that some women have no symptoms at all. Know that pregnancy and childbirth is the most common cause of a prolapsed bladder. Recognize the role of menopause. Be aware of muscle strain as a factor. Consider your weight. Make an appointment with a physician. Have a pelvic exam. Have further testing if you are experiencing bleeding, incontinence, or sexual dysfunction. Talk to your doctor about additional testing. Get a specific diagnosis. See if you need treatment. Practice Kegel exercises. Use a pessary. Try estrogen replacement therapy. Undergo surgery.
https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Neck-Acne	How to Get Rid of Neck Acne	To get rid of neck acne, start by washing your neck twice a day with a gentle cleanser labeled “non-comedogenic” or “oil free.” Apply the cleanser with your fingers so you don't irritate your skin, and rinse your neck well after washing. Additionally, try a daily sea salt treatment to dry out the acne. To make the exfoliant, brew a cup of green tea and dissolve 1 teaspoon of sea salt in it. Next, add a tablespoon of aloe vera to the mixture, stir well, and apply it to your neck with a cotton washcloth. After 5 minutes, rinse the solution off.	Wash your neck at least twice a day. Keeping your neck clean is the best way to start getting rid of neck acne. You should take a shower to wash your neck at least once per day. If you sweat a lot, such as after a workout, then take another shower. Use a gentle cleanser to clean your neck. Find a gentle cleanser that is labeled as “non-comedogenic” or “oil-free” to use on your neck. Products that are non-comedogenic will not clog your pores so they should help to clear up your neck acne. Check the label to be sure that a product is non-comedogenic. Check to make sure that the products you buy are alcohol-free as well. Alcohol may irritate your neck acne and make it worse. Apply cleanser to your neck using only your fingers. Do not use a washcloth, sponge, or other abrasive materials to apply cleanser to your neck because this can cause irritation, scarring, and worsen the existing acne. Instead, use your fingertips to gently apply the cleanser to your neck. Do not scrub aggressively. Rinse your neck well after you finish washing it. Pat your neck dry with a clean cotton towel. Avoid irritants. You may not realize it, but your clothing or accessories may be contributing to your neck acne and making it worse. Avoid tight collared shirts, scarves, and turtlenecks, as these may irritate the acne. Make sure anything that touches your neck is clean. Also, avoid touching the area and never pick at or scratch your acne, as this can cause scarring. Try not to use oily sunscreens and don't cover the acne with foundation or makeup. If you use a hairstyling product, make sure it doesn't come in contact with your neck. If you have long hair, the oil from your hair may be getting on the back of your neck. Try wearing your hair up in a ponytail while you treat your acne. Gather your ingredients. Making a sea salt treatment is easy and the ingredients are available in most grocery stores. It exfoliates your skin and can dry out acne. To make a sea salt treatment, you will need: 1 cup hot water 1 teaspoon sea salt Green tea bag and/or 1 – 2 tablespoons aloe vera Brew a cup of green tea. Green tea extract has been found to be effective as a treatment for acne, but using a cup of green tea as a base for this treatment should also help. You can either use one teaspoon of green tea leaves in a tea infuser or use a green tea bag. Place the tea bag or infuser into a mug. Then, boil some water and pour about 1 cup of water over the green tea. Let the tea steep for about three minutes and then remove the tea bag or infuser. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of sea salt in the tea. Measure out 1 teaspoon of sea salt and add it to the cup of tea. Stir the sea salt until it completely dissolves in the tea. Add a tablespoon of aloe vera. Aloe vera has been found to be effective against acne and it also has moisturizing properties. You can add this instead of the tea, or try combining the green tea and aloe vera into one mixture. Add 1 tablespoon of aloe vera to the sea salt solution and stir well. If you want to skip the green tea and only use aloe vera, mix 2 tablespoons of aloe vera gel with 1 tablespoon of sea salt. This will make a scrub that you can apply directly to your neck. Apply the mixture to your neck. Make sure that the solution is not so hot that it might burn your neck. Allow it to cool down a bit first. Then, you can apply the solution by soaking a clean cotton washcloth in the solution and placing the cloth over your neck. If you only have few places that you want to treat, then you can dip a cotton swab or cotton ball into the solution and apply it as needed. Leave the solution on for about five minutes. Don't leave the sea salt solution on your skin any longer or it may dry out your skin too much. After time is up, rinse off your neck with lukewarm water and gently dry off your neck with a clean, cotton towel. Moisturize your neck. After the sea salt treatment, apply some moisturizer to your neck. Make sure that you use a non-comedogenic moisturizer to avoid making the acne worse. Repeat the sea salt treatment once per day. Do not use this treatment more than once per day or you may dry out your skin too much, even if you moisturize after. Limit yourself to one sea salt treatment per day. Gather your ingredients. Some of the things you can readily find in your kitchen are thought to have antibacterial and healing properties, allowing you to quickly whip up an acne-fighting mask. You will need: 1/2 tablespoon of dark colored honey (darker honey has more antibacterial properties) 1 egg white (do not use the yolk) 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Combine the ingredients in a small bowl. Use a whisk or fork to mix the egg white and lemon juice until it becomes frothy, then add the honey. Make sure that everything is well combined. You may wish to add other household items, such as 1 teaspoon of witch hazel (which has anti-inflammatory properties) or a few drops of an essential oil like peppermint, spearmint, lavender, or calendula, but it is unclear if these will enhance or reduce the effectiveness of the treatment. Spread the paste over your neck. If you want to treat your whole neck, then you can use your fingers to spread the paste over your neck. If you want to treat a smaller area, then you can use a cotton swab or cotton ball to spread the paste over specific problem areas. Allow the paste to dry on your neck and then rinse. Leave the paste alone for about 15 minutes, then rinse it away with lukewarm water. You may need to hop in the shower to do this. Use your fingers to break up the paste as you rinse it away. Pat your skin dry and then apply a non-comedogenic moisturizer to complete the treatment. Try over-the-counter treatments. Face washes and topical treatments containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, sulfur, or resorcinol acid are all effective acne-fighters and are available over-the-counter. You may find products targeted specifically at treating body acne, which may be more effective than products meant to be used on your face. Just make sure you don't forget and use the body product on the delicate skin of your face or the front of your neck. Ask about retinoid creams. Retinoid creams can help to unclog your pores and eliminate acne on your neck, but you will need to get a prescription from your doctor or dermatologist. Discuss the use of antibiotics. Your doctor may prescribe a prescription-strength topical antibiotic, such as clindamycin, to apply to your neck, which kills acne-causing bacteria. It may also reduce redness. You will need to apply it twice daily and combine it with benzoyl peroxide, as this prevents the bacteria from becoming immune to the antibiotic. Talk to your doctor about oral contraceptive pills if you are a woman. Oral contraceptives can help to reduce acne in some women, but only if the acne is related to shifts in your hormones. Keep in mind that oral contraceptives have side effects and they should not be used if you are planning to become pregnant. Consider steroid injections for cystic acne. If your dermatologist determines that the acne on the back of your neck is a nodular or cystic lesion, your doctor may decide to inject the lesion directly with a steroid. This can quickly reduce swelling and heal the acne. It may also reduce scarring. Side effects of this treatment include thinning of the skin, increased sensitivity to light, and may temporarily case the fat under your skin to atrophy, giving the area a "sunken" appearance. Consider isotretinoin for severe acne. Isotretinoin is a strong medicine that should only be used if other methods of controlling acne fail to work. Isotretinoin can clear up severe acne in a couple of months, but it also has some severe risks including: Ulcerative colitis Liver damage Inflammatory bowel disease Depression Bone changes Severe birth defects Look into laser treatments for acne. Laser treatments can also help to get rid of acne by reducing the size of oil glands and making them less active as well. Some forms of laser therapy also use topical medicine to make the laser more effective. Keep in mind that you will need multiple treatments in order for laser therapy to work.	Wash your neck at least twice a day. Use a gentle cleanser to clean your neck. Apply cleanser to your neck using only your fingers. Avoid irritants. Gather your ingredients. Brew a cup of green tea. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of sea salt in the tea. Add a tablespoon of aloe vera. Apply the mixture to your neck. Leave the solution on for about five minutes. Moisturize your neck. Repeat the sea salt treatment once per day. Gather your ingredients. Combine the ingredients in a small bowl. Spread the paste over your neck. Allow the paste to dry on your neck and then rinse. Try over-the-counter treatments. Ask about retinoid creams. Discuss the use of antibiotics. Talk to your doctor about oral contraceptive pills if you are a woman. Consider steroid injections for cystic acne. Consider isotretinoin for severe acne. Look into laser treatments for acne.
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Black-Suede-Shoes	How to Clean Black Suede Shoes	To clean basic stains on black suede shoes, start by brushing away the surface dirt and stain with a suede brush or soft cloth. Then, brush back and forth with moderate pressure to remove the stain that is deeper in the suede and spray your shoes with a black suede protector. For more difficult stains, dampen a soft cloth in a solution of one part white vinegar and two parts water and wipe the stain using gentle pressure. You can also try using a rubber cleaning stone if you're trying to remove mud.	Buy a suede brush. Suede is a very delicate material, so you can't use just any brush. You also can't use water to clean most stains. You must use a soft brush to gently rub away the dirt. You can buy a suede brush, which can be found at most major retailers, shoe shops, or online. If you don't have a suede brush, try a soft nylon brush. A brush used for nails could work. A soft cloth can also work if you don't have a brush. Just make sure the brush is not too hard. Brush away the dirt. To start cleaning, use the brush to brush away any dirt and stains. This gets all the dirt from the surface of the shoe. When first brushing, make sure you brush in the same direction. This helps remove anything on the surface. This works for mud and other basic stains. Rub the stain a bit harder. After you've brushed all the dirt off the surface, use the brush to rub with slightly more pressure. Brush back and forth over the stain to try to remove the dirt that is deeper in the suede. Make sure to still only use moderate pressure. Suede is delicate, so if you brush it too hard, you can damage it. Spray your shoes with black suede protector. After you have cleaned your shoes, consider spraying them with black suede protector. This product will help keep your shoes from getting too many surface stains, though it won't protect from everything. Black suede protector has dye in it to help maintain the black color of your shoes. You can also buy plain spray suede protector if you don't want to use a dye one. Use black suede dye if the color has faded. Cleaning your black suede shoes may lighten the black color. If this happens, you can buy black suede dye. Follow the directions on the suede dye package to properly dye your shoes. Cover the area with the dye and allow to set. Make sure to buy dye specifically for suede. Make a vinegar solution. If brushing doesn't remove the stain, you can try to remove the stain with vinegar. Mix a solution that is one part white vinegar and two parts water. Use a soft cloth, and dampen it with the solution. Make sure the cloth is damp and not sopping wet. Wipe the stain using gentle pressure. Let the shoe dry completely before you wear it or place it in a shoe box. Try a rubber stone. If there is a stain you cannot remove with a brush, like mud, you can try using a rubber cleaning stone. You may also be able to find a suede eraser, which often come with suede cleaning kits. Rubbing the stain with a rubber suede eraser or cleaning stone may take awhile, but with gentle pressure the stain should be removed. You may need to brush away rubber debris. Take your shoes to a professional. If you have major stains on your black suede shoes that simple at-home techniques cannot remove, consider taking your shoes to a professional. You may consider a person who specializes in leather goods, or a cobbler, which is a person who specializes in shoes. These stains may include red wine, blood, or ink. Use water for water stains. Though you don't want to use water for basic stains on suede, water stains can be treated with the same substance. Dampen a soft cloth, and then cover the shoe in a light layer of water. Make sure the water is evenly spread over the shoes. Use a dry cloth to dab up the excess water. Place a shoe tree or balled up paper inside the shoe to keep the shape. Then, let it dry overnight. Brush with a suede brush to liven the look of the suede. Try cornstarch on oil stains. If you have an oil stain on your suede shoes, try using the suede brush. If that doesn't remove it, use cornstarch. Sprinkle a light coating of cornstarch on the oil stain. Let the cornstarch sit for around eight hours. Brush away the cornstarch. Then use the steam from a steam iron to dampen the stained area lightly. Use the brush to finish removing the stain. Freeze the shoe if something is stuck on the shoe. If you get chewing gum, wax, or something else sticky on your suede shoes, a brush won't work. Place the shoe in the freezer until the sticky substance is frozen and hard. Use a brush to chip away the hardened substance.	Buy a suede brush. Brush away the dirt. Rub the stain a bit harder. Spray your shoes with black suede protector. Use black suede dye if the color has faded. Make a vinegar solution. Try a rubber stone. Take your shoes to a professional. Use water for water stains. Try cornstarch on oil stains. Freeze the shoe if something is stuck on the shoe.